My Greek Roadtrip
Oct 22nd, 2008, 07:21 AM
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My Greek Roadtrip
Arriving in Thessaloniki on 8th September we took the bus from the airport into the city. We got off at the railway station and walked in the afternoon heat to the Hotel Astoria. The location was good - very central, but the hotel had seen better days. We had only paid £99 for 2 nights though which was a good price for a city hotel.
The city itself was a hot busy place and much as we expected - rather soulless with not a lot of sightseeing for the tourist. Cafe - culture wise it was very good and I reckon our first 3lbs weight gain went on in the 2 nights we spent there. Every time you ordered a drink they presented you with a plate of bar snacks which could be crisps, nuts ,cheese whatever! Very friendly people too.We made the mistake on our first night of getting hauled into a taverna by a persuasive young girl. the food was OK, but touristy.
We made a mental note not to let this happen again!
The next day was bright and sunny. Bliss! We walked along the seefront and some of the city before lunchtime
We didn’t manage lunch as we were served sumptuous bar snacks where we sat outside on very comfy chairs sipping white wine and Mythos.
That night we went to an Ouzerie where the young waiter spoke to us a while,practicing his English then we ate al fresco at a nearby taverna which was very good for 26 euros (inc drinks).
We left our hotel on the Wednesday to go and collect our hire car - upgraded to a Ford Focus. Not much power on the hills but nice and roomy. No stop for lunch - we ate the hard boiled eggs we took from the hotel breakfast buffet. We arrived in Xanthi where we thought we would stay the night but it turned out to be a busy town with terrible traffic as all these Greek towns seem to be with parked (or double parked) cars everywhere! We got out of there as fast as we could and ended up in a lovely little village called Paranesti. There was a signpost for a hotel way up the hill above the village so we went for it. 60 euros later and we were in a fantastic room with superb views over the village and surrounding hills.
We sat out there with our drinks feeling totally happy and content. There was a taverna just down below us and we went there for dinner - our best meal since our arrival in Greece and it only cost 21 euros.
The next morning we were served breakfast on the flower filled sunny terrace. I could have stayed forever!
I should say that this place was not very Greek - we were very near the Macedonian border so we thought they didn't act Greek. I should mention that there were only us and maybe 3 other people staying in the hotel.
We reluctantly drove away from Paranesti and headed for Drama where we found a Lidl supermarket for our supplies.
Drama was too big and busy for us so we drove on to Serres ,stopping for a picnic on top of a hill on the way there. We took advantage of the toilet facilities -Greek style as it was a quiet location!
Serres also turned out to be too big so we headed for Pella but it was very disappointing. There were supposed to be some marvellous archaeological sites there but we didn‘t think they were worth seeing - unless we saw the wrong thing. No hotels there at all so we ended up a long way north of Pella, in Edessa - a dramatically placed town on top of a cliff top. We drove around until we found a hotel in the centre for 40 euros with car parked safely for the night.
Next day we drove through the hills on non classified roads. Really spectacular scenery. Eventually we arrived up in Florina. Another too big and busy town. We were so hungry by this time but we drove on and found a pretty café way off the road down in a valley where we were the only customers there. We were served a big lunch and had the most delicious tomatoes grown by the proprietor but it was pricey at 27 euros.
On the road again we were off to the Prespa lakes searching for accommodation. We found a village at the back of beyond called Psaradhas - population 85. It was so tranquil with cows ambling around the roads. We got a hotel all to ourselves for 40 euros with balcony view over the lake looking across to the village itself . We could see birds on the shore from our balcony and saw pelicans swooping down over the water to pluck the fish from the lake surface and fly back to the beach to eat them as we had our aperitif. We walked the 15 minutes to the village to one of the 2 open tavernas and had a delicious dinner al fresco. The owner asked us if we wanted a boat ride the next day. He would charge 15 euros if we went with a German couple at 9am. A bit early for us we thought. We very happily walked back to our hotel in the moonlight - stars glowing in the sky (maybe just a bit scared of the cows and wild dogs) and had an uncomfortable night on our hard beds in our nice hotel!
Next morning the sun took a while to shine onto the deep valley we were in but as we were eating the sumptuous breakfast prepared by my husband(banana, nectarine and bottled water). As we enjoyed looking over at the Albania at one side and Macedonia on the other, the sun arrived and we thought we'd go and do the boat trip. We found the man at his taverna and the Germans had let him down not turning up so we got the boat to ourselves (30 euros but well worth it). He took us around the lake showing us where the 3 countries of Albania, Macedonia and Greece bordered. it was all very interesting with frescoes on the rocks which had been done hundreds of years ago. There were hundreds of mini cormorants - a dying breed apparently- and scores of little ducks and pelicans. He took us ashore to climb hundreds of steps to a little church in a cave where Byzantine monks had stayed long ago.
We were quite hungry when we came ashore so had lunch in his taverna before setting off for our next destination which turned out to be the lovely mountain - top town of Siatista. En route we drove through the pretty lakeside town of Kastoria but it was impossible to get parked anywhere. Hotels were very expensive so we drove on through. On arrival in Siastica, we managed to get a super hotel with good facilities for 50 euros and delicious food,wine and beer at their own taverna for only 20 euros.
We walked around the town the next morning so we could see the church. We left the town after a brunch at a taverna where they cooked the meat outside on the pavement. Refuelled once again, we set off after 12 and drove to Meteora. We got a room at Dupiani Guest House where we had stayed 5 years ago. The owner let us have a room with view over the mountains for 50 euros a night. We decided to have 2 nights there. That night we walked down to Kastriki village to the internet café and afterwards had a reasonable meal at the taverna we’d eaten in 5 years ago. Another beautiful moonlight night to walk home.
The next day was a big disappointment as we woke up to rain. We set off to find a laundry as we had so much washing and my husband was almost out of shirts. Once in Kalambaka we found out that the laundry was closed on Monday as were most of the shops. We drove up to Meteora but the rain started to get worse so we returned to the hotel where we prepared our picnic. In search of a picnic spot we headed off to the other side of Kalambaka where it seemed to be brighter, but we couldn’t find anywhere nice. The rain had eased so we decided to go back up to Meteora. There were so many tourists there. We ate our lunch in the car as the rock where we would have liked to eat was wet (and very smelly)with urine as well as rain. We did happen to find a special few minutes out on the rock without tourists and rain, but just after that the rain really started falling. We returned to the hotel once again and the thunder started! By 6pm the sun was out and all was well. Pre dinner drinks were had on the balcony before we walked down to the village to a different taverna with good food. Back at the hotel, we sat out on the balcony under the moon and stars.
The next morning we had our own bits and pieces for breakfast - bought from an old lady’s shop the previous day- on our balcony while the other guests were eating their bread and honey for 5 euros.
We checked out before 9.45am so went back up to Meteora for yet more photos, this time with better light and no rain. The sun came out and shone down on us and it was with some reluctance that we drove away that morning from such a special place.
We stopped at LIDL’s supermarket on the outskirts of Kalambaka for more supplies which was just as well because our drive took us far away from civilisation that day. We saw spectacular scenery in the mountains while heading for Arta -very alpine and Swiss looking. We enjoyed our feast from LIDL before getting slightly lost, driving on treacherous roads that had fallen rocks and stones which hubby had to dodge. It was like an assault course!
At this point we had decided to skip Arta and head for Dodoni . We got there at 5.30pm to search for accommodation. There were only 2 hotels there and both overpriced. We went to the hotel next to the Dodoni site which was deserted until a man drove up in his beaten old pick up and offered us a room for 50euros. The room was pretty basic for that price so we declined his offer. He then said 45 so agreed to take it. Although there was a cafe on the premises with goods on display, it was shut. The fellow told us to eat in the nearby hotel resort and then drove away leaving us to the entire premises! We had to do some washing then we walked around the building where we found a fig tree with some nice ripe figs to have with our LIDL dinner which we ate on one of the café tables.
We hoped that some passing car didn’t pull up looking for dinner - it would have been a hard one to explain! A feast it was of meat, cheese, tomatoes, tinned calamari and the figs from the tree. Such fun!
We got up early the next day to get into the Dodoni site at 8.15. A mistake as it was still not light enough and quite cold. The site was very disappointing after visiting there 5 years ago. We thought that more would have been uncovered, but it seemed in a bit of a mess with a lot of workers hanging around. We only spent 20 minutes there before setting off to Arta.
The city itself was a hot busy place and much as we expected - rather soulless with not a lot of sightseeing for the tourist. Cafe - culture wise it was very good and I reckon our first 3lbs weight gain went on in the 2 nights we spent there. Every time you ordered a drink they presented you with a plate of bar snacks which could be crisps, nuts ,cheese whatever! Very friendly people too.We made the mistake on our first night of getting hauled into a taverna by a persuasive young girl. the food was OK, but touristy.
We made a mental note not to let this happen again!
The next day was bright and sunny. Bliss! We walked along the seefront and some of the city before lunchtime
We didn’t manage lunch as we were served sumptuous bar snacks where we sat outside on very comfy chairs sipping white wine and Mythos.
That night we went to an Ouzerie where the young waiter spoke to us a while,practicing his English then we ate al fresco at a nearby taverna which was very good for 26 euros (inc drinks).
We left our hotel on the Wednesday to go and collect our hire car - upgraded to a Ford Focus. Not much power on the hills but nice and roomy. No stop for lunch - we ate the hard boiled eggs we took from the hotel breakfast buffet. We arrived in Xanthi where we thought we would stay the night but it turned out to be a busy town with terrible traffic as all these Greek towns seem to be with parked (or double parked) cars everywhere! We got out of there as fast as we could and ended up in a lovely little village called Paranesti. There was a signpost for a hotel way up the hill above the village so we went for it. 60 euros later and we were in a fantastic room with superb views over the village and surrounding hills.
We sat out there with our drinks feeling totally happy and content. There was a taverna just down below us and we went there for dinner - our best meal since our arrival in Greece and it only cost 21 euros.
The next morning we were served breakfast on the flower filled sunny terrace. I could have stayed forever!
I should say that this place was not very Greek - we were very near the Macedonian border so we thought they didn't act Greek. I should mention that there were only us and maybe 3 other people staying in the hotel.
We reluctantly drove away from Paranesti and headed for Drama where we found a Lidl supermarket for our supplies.
Drama was too big and busy for us so we drove on to Serres ,stopping for a picnic on top of a hill on the way there. We took advantage of the toilet facilities -Greek style as it was a quiet location!
Serres also turned out to be too big so we headed for Pella but it was very disappointing. There were supposed to be some marvellous archaeological sites there but we didn‘t think they were worth seeing - unless we saw the wrong thing. No hotels there at all so we ended up a long way north of Pella, in Edessa - a dramatically placed town on top of a cliff top. We drove around until we found a hotel in the centre for 40 euros with car parked safely for the night.
Next day we drove through the hills on non classified roads. Really spectacular scenery. Eventually we arrived up in Florina. Another too big and busy town. We were so hungry by this time but we drove on and found a pretty café way off the road down in a valley where we were the only customers there. We were served a big lunch and had the most delicious tomatoes grown by the proprietor but it was pricey at 27 euros.
On the road again we were off to the Prespa lakes searching for accommodation. We found a village at the back of beyond called Psaradhas - population 85. It was so tranquil with cows ambling around the roads. We got a hotel all to ourselves for 40 euros with balcony view over the lake looking across to the village itself . We could see birds on the shore from our balcony and saw pelicans swooping down over the water to pluck the fish from the lake surface and fly back to the beach to eat them as we had our aperitif. We walked the 15 minutes to the village to one of the 2 open tavernas and had a delicious dinner al fresco. The owner asked us if we wanted a boat ride the next day. He would charge 15 euros if we went with a German couple at 9am. A bit early for us we thought. We very happily walked back to our hotel in the moonlight - stars glowing in the sky (maybe just a bit scared of the cows and wild dogs) and had an uncomfortable night on our hard beds in our nice hotel!
Next morning the sun took a while to shine onto the deep valley we were in but as we were eating the sumptuous breakfast prepared by my husband(banana, nectarine and bottled water). As we enjoyed looking over at the Albania at one side and Macedonia on the other, the sun arrived and we thought we'd go and do the boat trip. We found the man at his taverna and the Germans had let him down not turning up so we got the boat to ourselves (30 euros but well worth it). He took us around the lake showing us where the 3 countries of Albania, Macedonia and Greece bordered. it was all very interesting with frescoes on the rocks which had been done hundreds of years ago. There were hundreds of mini cormorants - a dying breed apparently- and scores of little ducks and pelicans. He took us ashore to climb hundreds of steps to a little church in a cave where Byzantine monks had stayed long ago.
We were quite hungry when we came ashore so had lunch in his taverna before setting off for our next destination which turned out to be the lovely mountain - top town of Siatista. En route we drove through the pretty lakeside town of Kastoria but it was impossible to get parked anywhere. Hotels were very expensive so we drove on through. On arrival in Siastica, we managed to get a super hotel with good facilities for 50 euros and delicious food,wine and beer at their own taverna for only 20 euros.
We walked around the town the next morning so we could see the church. We left the town after a brunch at a taverna where they cooked the meat outside on the pavement. Refuelled once again, we set off after 12 and drove to Meteora. We got a room at Dupiani Guest House where we had stayed 5 years ago. The owner let us have a room with view over the mountains for 50 euros a night. We decided to have 2 nights there. That night we walked down to Kastriki village to the internet café and afterwards had a reasonable meal at the taverna we’d eaten in 5 years ago. Another beautiful moonlight night to walk home.
The next day was a big disappointment as we woke up to rain. We set off to find a laundry as we had so much washing and my husband was almost out of shirts. Once in Kalambaka we found out that the laundry was closed on Monday as were most of the shops. We drove up to Meteora but the rain started to get worse so we returned to the hotel where we prepared our picnic. In search of a picnic spot we headed off to the other side of Kalambaka where it seemed to be brighter, but we couldn’t find anywhere nice. The rain had eased so we decided to go back up to Meteora. There were so many tourists there. We ate our lunch in the car as the rock where we would have liked to eat was wet (and very smelly)with urine as well as rain. We did happen to find a special few minutes out on the rock without tourists and rain, but just after that the rain really started falling. We returned to the hotel once again and the thunder started! By 6pm the sun was out and all was well. Pre dinner drinks were had on the balcony before we walked down to the village to a different taverna with good food. Back at the hotel, we sat out on the balcony under the moon and stars.
The next morning we had our own bits and pieces for breakfast - bought from an old lady’s shop the previous day- on our balcony while the other guests were eating their bread and honey for 5 euros.
We checked out before 9.45am so went back up to Meteora for yet more photos, this time with better light and no rain. The sun came out and shone down on us and it was with some reluctance that we drove away that morning from such a special place.
We stopped at LIDL’s supermarket on the outskirts of Kalambaka for more supplies which was just as well because our drive took us far away from civilisation that day. We saw spectacular scenery in the mountains while heading for Arta -very alpine and Swiss looking. We enjoyed our feast from LIDL before getting slightly lost, driving on treacherous roads that had fallen rocks and stones which hubby had to dodge. It was like an assault course!
At this point we had decided to skip Arta and head for Dodoni . We got there at 5.30pm to search for accommodation. There were only 2 hotels there and both overpriced. We went to the hotel next to the Dodoni site which was deserted until a man drove up in his beaten old pick up and offered us a room for 50euros. The room was pretty basic for that price so we declined his offer. He then said 45 so agreed to take it. Although there was a cafe on the premises with goods on display, it was shut. The fellow told us to eat in the nearby hotel resort and then drove away leaving us to the entire premises! We had to do some washing then we walked around the building where we found a fig tree with some nice ripe figs to have with our LIDL dinner which we ate on one of the café tables.
We hoped that some passing car didn’t pull up looking for dinner - it would have been a hard one to explain! A feast it was of meat, cheese, tomatoes, tinned calamari and the figs from the tree. Such fun!
We got up early the next day to get into the Dodoni site at 8.15. A mistake as it was still not light enough and quite cold. The site was very disappointing after visiting there 5 years ago. We thought that more would have been uncovered, but it seemed in a bit of a mess with a lot of workers hanging around. We only spent 20 minutes there before setting off to Arta.
Oct 25th, 2008, 05:29 AM
#3
I certainly wouldn't want to drive in Kastoria - walking is quite hard work! But I really enjoyed staying there, and this place - www.venetula.gr - has great views, a friendly owner, and reasonable prices.
Oct 25th, 2008, 06:00 AM
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I like your trip report, but it would help to relate to you if you would explain who "We" are; a couple, friends traveling together, a family, young/old, etc.
The use of paragraphs would make it much easier to read.
Sorry if that sounded negative; I did find the report informative.
The use of paragraphs would make it much easier to read.
Sorry if that sounded negative; I did find the report informative.
Oct 25th, 2008, 06:14 AM
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We chose to fly to Thessaloniki primarily because it was at least £50 cheaper than flying to Athens and a shorter flying time. We flew with British Airways.
Sorry for not explaining myself nukesafe!
"We" are a very happy newly retired Scottish couple aged 53 and 51, been married 33 years. We're hoping to take as many trips as we can so our days of 5* hotels are finished as we want our cash to go as far as possible!
I'm trying to do some photos, but I have over 1200 to go through. The trip report was taken from my diary which I typed up daily on our laptop.
Sorry for not explaining myself nukesafe!
"We" are a very happy newly retired Scottish couple aged 53 and 51, been married 33 years. We're hoping to take as many trips as we can so our days of 5* hotels are finished as we want our cash to go as far as possible!
I'm trying to do some photos, but I have over 1200 to go through. The trip report was taken from my diary which I typed up daily on our laptop.
Oct 25th, 2008, 08:05 AM
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That helps, carylspall. Now I can picture myself and DW in your shoes, as we are also a chronologically challenged retired couple. When we married, lo these many years ago, I promised my wife a trip to Greece. We have been a lot of places around the world, but I have yet to fulfill my promise.
Your tale gives me hope.
Your tale gives me hope.
Oct 25th, 2008, 01:56 PM
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Go now nukesafe before the rest of the tourists invade! The north of Greece is like going back in time x 30 yrs!
Next time we go, we intend to fly into Thessaloniki and then travel into Bulgaria from there.
Next time we go, we intend to fly into Thessaloniki and then travel into Bulgaria from there.
