lreynold1

Hi, cruiseluv,

Am I right that you like to keep your days at about 20 kms? The Camino Frances is clearly the easiest to arrange that on, because of all the towns and infrastructure, but if you wanted to walk on the Primitivo, I wouldn't give up on it.

If you wanted 200 kms on the Frances, you might just want to start in Roncesvalles (or St. Jean in France (where Martin Sheen started, , with a two-day walk over the Pyrenees). There is a good way to break up the stage from St. Jean to Roncesvalles, with a stop at the albergue in Orisson. http://www.refuge-orisson.com/ (I know you like private rooms, and they do have one with 3-4 beds that I once got by chance, but maybe you can request it). That would make a very do-able two days to Roncesvalles. Roncesvalles to Logrono is under 150, to Santo Domingo de la Calzada about 30 more (do you hear the two paradores calling you?). The camino through the Pais Vasco and Navarra is very pretty, not surprisingly.

There are other routes, like the Vasco Interior, or the Baztan, that I don't know, but that are apparently very well marked and also go through beautiful scenery in Pais Vasco/Navarra. These are shorter and I have access to guides/reports on both of them if you are interested. Since you speak Spanish, none of these less travelled routes would be a problem for you.

Check out what this guided walk has chosen for the "prettiest" parts of the Camino Frances: http://www.amawalkerscamino.com/22-d...-day-walk.html

Lots of decisions. Buen camino, Laurie

p.s. Adrienne, For some reason, I did think you were walking this October, so thanks for clarifying that.

Barb

I think the Divas could clear out an albergue in the first 5 minutes -- hmm, might be assured of getting a good bed. KIA would be organizing all the other peregrinas and showing them what her 10lb 1999 Lonely Planet book has to say about it. Eiffel Tower would have her neon green pants with pictures of pilgrims on them and camino shell earrings with matching bracelet, trying to find bargains in every town she passed through. D would keep all the peregrinas up every night talking nonstop. I can only imagine what they would tell the Compostela people in Santiago as to why they wanted to do the walk. Could be a good movie.

I think I will tell them about the Camino - AFTER - I get back.

adrienne

Barb - If you're gonna make me wet my pants laughing I can't do the trek with you!!

Do you have a reason to walk the Camino? I certainly don't. From the movie I think there were 3 things to choose from. I only remember religion and health.

I start my Spanish classes October 1.

easytraveler

Awww, Barb! Why not bring them along?

Some of us would most likely love to see Eiffel Tower Diva with her matching orange and neon lime green outfits on the Camino. She'll likely have a matching hat or several of them and matching walking sticks. If you tell her that there's a shopping street in the next town, she'll make it there faster than anyone else will.

And which one was it that had had to have dinner before 6:30pm or she would absolutely DIE-E-E?

Just think, you could write a sequel to your Italy trip with a trip to Spain!

cruiseluv

I think Spain, and specially the Camino, could be even more "traumatic" to Barb's friends!

Laurie, thanks for those ideas, I'll look into them. I would like to keep the walking to no more than 25 kms per day. I have not totally abandoned the thought of doing a segment of the Primitivo but rather not be dependant on pick up by the hotel or taxi. Maybe for one of the stops would be ok, but no more if possible. So I don't know if it would be feasible. I'll probably not do this until 2014 , so I have plenty of time to study the options!

lreynold1

Hi, cruiseluv,
I'm in touch with an Irish pilgrim who is trying to break up the Primitivo into shorter segments. We've come up with a pretty good plan, I'll put it out there for you even though your date is so far in the future.

Oviedo-Grado (21 km) (pension and hotel in town)
Grado -Salas (22 km) (hotels)
Salas-Tineo (18.5 km) (pension/hotel)
Tineo - Campiello (11 km) (casa rural connected to albergue)
Campiello - Pola de Allande (18 km) (Hotel La Allandesa)
Pola to Berducedo (16 km) (casa rural and private albergue)
Berducedo to the Grandas dam (20 km)-- Hotel Las Grandas on the water
Grandas to Castro (14 km) -- private albergue only (or stop 4-5 kms before Castro, in Grandas de Salime, hotel and pension)
Castro -Fonsagrada (20) -- pensiones
Fonsagrada -- O Cadavo (30 km) -- hotel
(this is the only day you would have to be picked up and dropped off and you could spend two nights in either Fonsagrada or O Cadavo with the owner picking you up half-way (Lastra is a good mid point))
O Cadavo - Castroverde -- (8.5 kms) (Pension Cortes)
Castroverde - Lugo 21 km
(From Lugo to Melide and the Camino Frances is two days with more road walking and not quite as rural)

So you do have a Primitivo option!

cruiseluv

Excellent, thank you! Is the Oviedo to Grado segment anything special, or could I start in Grado and not be missing much? I might need to stay in Grado a couple of nights to do some sightseeing near there as it is where my grandparents came from.

lreynold1

That's funny, the pilgrim I've been in contact with is also going to visit family roots near Grado -- in a village called Trubia. She's going to do her sightseeing pre-camino from Oviedo for a few days with a rental car, which is probably not an option in Grado.

Oviedo-Grado is very nice, IMO, some green tunnels, some nice little villages, a pretty rural chapel or two, good coffee stop in Esclampero, some walking along a river. But that's just what the Primitivo is like, so you wouldn't be missing out on your only chance to see that kind of scenery. Even the way out of Oviedo is not horrible, as it is in many cities on different caminos. No industrial slog or massive suburban development.

Starting at the cathedral in Oviedo is a nice way to begin, too. The 12th century wooden Christ statue inside the cathedral is from the days when a detour north from the Camino Frances was very popular. The refrain goes like this: "quien va a Santiago y no al Salvador, visita al criado y no a su Senor." (he/she who goes to Santiago and not to the Salvador (statue in Oviedo), visits the servant and not the master -- yes, it loses something in the translation.) So I would start in Oviedo, but of course it's not up to me. Buen camino!

gruezi

Dear Cruisluv,

Thanks very much for this incredibly well-done report.

A friend and I just decided to walk in 2014 but we like to talk and plan well in advance!

Thanks to everyone else who commented here as well.

gruezi

cruiseluv

Hi Gruezi, thanks for your kind words. Are you doing the Camino Francés? Hopefully I'll be able to go back in 2014 and do a different segment.

Viajero2

I have one of those jobs where a month vacation is unheard off so I am walking the Camino in sections. I have already completed Sant Jean Pied de Port to Logroño last year, which was spectacular as far as scenery, cultural, confraternization, spiritual, and physically challenging (not as hard as you might think...). I am now getting ready to return in 2013 for 2 more weeks; planing to get to Leon. The meseta after Burgos is known to "play with your head" so I am looking forward to that

I am not the type for the comunal albergues, wish I was.

I also used Jacotrans; made my own reservations ahead of time. No problems at all. Having the right equipment with you is critical, from your hiking boots, to the poncho to the walking stick. I read extensively on foot care and never got a blister-- so far. I was amazed to see many pair of sneakers abandoned by the side of the road. Sneakers, specially if no ankle support, are a very bad idea for the SJPDP-Logroño portion, or any portion with rocky ups and downs.

Viajero2

cruiseluv asked >>As another option, is there any other segment of the Camino Frances(at the most 200 Kms)where scenery is specially interesting?

cruiseluv

Hola Viajero!

Your post is oh so timely because I feel I might need a fix of the Camino sooner than I thought... if I'm lucky, maybe 2013! You've sold me on doing that first stage. I just watched The Way again and had decided its worth start at St Jean.

Like you I'm not a good candidate for the albergues.

Did you write a report of your Camino, or if not, would you mind sharing where you stayed (accommodations)? I would book them myself as well. Thnaks in advance for any info!

cruiseluv

Viajero, forgot to ask you, in what month did you do your walk?

Viajero2

Hey cruiseluv!! we may have more than one connection with our love for The Camino-- I grew up in Puerto Rico!

I walked in May; planning to always walk in May (later part) until I get done! (Fingers crossed!)

In St. Jean Pied de Port I stayed at Hotel Central (can't locate a website!)-- an old hotel, no frills but tons of character. The restaurant was excellent. The lady at the front desk spoke excellent Spanish. Very close to the Spanish Gate from where to start your Camino

In Roncesvalles I stayed at the Casa de los Beneficiados, http://www.hotelroncesvalles.com/html/principal_en.html Beautiful, historical hotel that offers an option to those who need privacy. It is in close proximity to the Albergue so you do not miss any of the nice confraternization that goes on in the evenings among pilgrims. Their breakfast was fantastic; substantial and fresh. Besides the Albergue there are about 3 other private lodging options at Roncesvalles.

At Zubiri I stayed at Hostal Gau Txori: http://www.hostalgautxori.com/ a bit out of the way from the Camino. The last 5 kms into Zubiri are rocky downhill and that was a bit rough on the hips . Consequently, it took all I got to once I had crossed the Puente de la Rabia across from the Albergue at Zubiri to continue on for 1 more Km off the Camino. The paella, wine, and beef cutlets made it all worth it, though. They had a pool and I did see other pilgrims staying there. That said, this hostal had one of the very few restaurants in town, so I think I was going to walk the distance anyway... That said, if I was to do it again, I would stay closer to the Camino path at Hostal El Palo del Avellano: http://www.elpalodeavellano.com/pinicio_1.htm

At Pamplona I stayed at Hotel Europa: http://www.hoteleuropapamplona.com/ -- excellent location, accommodations, breakfast, just great. If I was to do it again I would consider http://www.hotel-eslava.com/

This is the part when I started cutting my hotel budget! I booked the first 3 nights because I had no idea how I was going to take in the Camino. My budget for the first 3 nights was also higher.

My husband met me the second week in Pamplona. Due to an old injury, walking this type distance is not an option for him. We found this really wonderful apartment rental in Pamplona very comfortable and at a great price (about $85/night). http://www.atmirasierra.com/ Clean, quiet, supermarkets close by, etc… Basically, my husband dropped me off and pick me up in the late afternoon for the next three days (Puente La Reina-Estella-Logrono). In the meantime, he occupied his days traveling to the beach in San Sebastian, or driving on the French countryside (less than an hour away!). Poor guy! It worked out much better than what it sounds. We both had phones and coordinated well. That said, it does takes away from the Camino and as much as he loved it and as much as I loved it having him around (even though I walked solo!), I do think I missed some of the Camino experience by driving back and forth from Pamplona for those 3 days.

I have never stopped thinking about The Camino ever since I returned. I suspect that the same is happening to you; The Camino Blues are for real! This May (2013) I plan to take another bite at it; I plan to use Jacotrans again. BTW, if you email them they will email you their brochure which has an excellent list of albergues, hostals, and hotels they transfer from/to.

I will post a report…when done. BTW, loved the pictures!! Buen Camino!

cruiseluv

Hola Viajero, Mil gracias!!
Oh, so you're a a PR transplant as well! Where do you live now?

Yes, it's true what they say, once you do the Camino it always stay with you. Sometimes the nostalgia is overwhelming. It's so funny that you posted yesterday, since yesterday I took out my John Brierley book and started looking at it. And today I found your post! And then , I just checked my Facebook feed and somebody posted a short you tube of the St Jean to Roncesvalles stage. I believe in signs, I think somebody is trying to tell me to lace up my boots and gets started again!

Buen Camino!!

Viajero2

Hey cruiseluv! those are more than signs-- "somebody" is really hitting you over the head to get back on the trail!
I am telling you the Stages from SJPDP to Logroño are definitely worth going back for. I will be more than glad to bounced off any advice or suggestion. All the best! Buen Camino!!

cruiseluv

Gracias Viajero, I'm now in full planning mode for that stage! The only question is... will it be 2013 (probably Sept) or sometime in 2014?

I'm sure I'll be checkin in with you with more questions, thanks for the offer!

Buen Camino!

Hey, I wonder what happened to the plans of some of our other friends here,are they still going forward? Hopefully, they'll post and let us know.

emdee

So you are planning another walk? I would like to but DH is vacillating. My brother is thinking of doing it again with his grown up kids. DH doesnt want me to do it after my toe nail fiasco particularly because I am diabetic. Both nails are now gone and growing back finally.

cruiseluv

Hi emdee,

At the moment its just in the "dreams" phase, however as soon as weather permits I'll start "training" again to be ready. I remember your problem with toe nails. Could it have been an issue with the shoes?