My Camino de Santiago
Jul 11th, 2012, 02:09 PM
#23
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Enhorabuena, cruiseluv! So glad to hear you had such a great camino. Looking forward to hearing more, and I'm so sorry we missed each other in Santiago. Maybe next year, now that you seem to be addicted, too. Laurie
Jul 11th, 2012, 08:36 PM
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Hola a todos! I hope to have day 2 tomorrow. I'm in the middle of unpacking and repacking as I'm headed Friday to PR to share in my dad's 90th birthday!
Hola Laurie! We had such a great time! Yes, I'm already thinking of maybe doing part of the Camino del Norte. I miss the Camino!! Pls tell me, how did it go for you?
Barb, as Lin says from most places you could probably call a taxi . By car distances are very close! At times we would walk alongside some peregrinos that were speaking English and we would chat. We didn't come across many Americans. But most of the times we were the only people on the trail!
Hola Laurie! We had such a great time! Yes, I'm already thinking of maybe doing part of the Camino del Norte. I miss the Camino!! Pls tell me, how did it go for you?
Barb, as Lin says from most places you could probably call a taxi . By car distances are very close! At times we would walk alongside some peregrinos that were speaking English and we would chat. We didn't come across many Americans. But most of the times we were the only people on the trail!
Jul 12th, 2012, 12:00 AM
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The great thing about the camino is that despite its many scenic areas, it borders civilization. You are never too far from a bathroom, a café and taxis know every inch of the area to come get you when the feet say "no more"!
Jul 12th, 2012, 05:50 AM
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Day 2- Triacastela to Sarria (via Samos)- About 25 kms
Nice breakfast the next morning which included among other things the delicious Cebreiro cheese (very creamy, a bit similar to cream cheese, but better!). And it was here that I made a BIG mistake: I had TWO cafés con leche(my downfall when in Spain, I adore their café con leche), and a BIG zumo de naranja, etc. I would later pay for this.
When we finished breakfast, Esther’s husband drove us to Triacastela, to take the Triacastela to Sarria via Samos path. The Camino out of Triacastela offers you two choices to Sarria: either via San Xil , a shorter route (about 19 kms) or the longer , alternative route via Samos , where the old Benedictine monastery of Samos is located (about 25 kms). We selected the latter. For about the first 3.5 kms you walk on the road, mostly behind a guardrail , but still a little unnerving. I was hoping that by the time we reached the village of San Cristobo there would be an open bar for a “rest stop”, but no such luck. Just many dogs, cats and cows meandering around town, the bar was still closed. So we embarked in several detours trying to find a restroom and wasted precious time doing this. It was quite an “adventure”. Lesson learned: find out about available rest stops and plan accordingly how many cafés con leche you can drink at breakfast!
By the time we got Samos (about 10 kms from Triacastela) , unfortunately, the Monastery had closed (would reopen at 4PM) , so we were only able to see it from the outside. That was disappointing and it was entirely my fault. By the way, the way you come into view of the Monastery, from atop the road, is very dramatic, makes for a great photo op.
We had a light lunch of bocadillos at a café in front of the Monastery and then started our walk to Sarria. As soon as we did, it started to rain. It wasn't hard, more like a steady drizzle but it was raw and damp. We decided it was a good time to wear our rain ponchos for the first time (it would not be the last!). Our next rest stop was the Taberna del Camino in Sivil, where the San Xil route joins the Samos route.
We were now eager to make our way to Sarria, where we arrived about 5:00. After a brief stop at the Information office for a map, we continued into the town center. We debated between finding a bar for a drink or calling the owner of the B&B where we were staying that night for a ride, and opted for the latter. Javier picked us up in about 15-20 mins to take us to the lovely Rectoral de Goian http://www.rectoraldegoian.com. The house has a tranquil and very pastoral setting. Rooms were big, comfortable, and with a lot of character ( 66 euros for a double,w/breakfast). After we cleaned up we had drinks in the terrace, followed by a delicious meal prepared by Javier and his wife Raquel, the owners. I believe it was about 15 euros PP, very reasonable given the quality of the meal. There were no choices, but we had no complaints!
Although we really liked this casa rural, if I ever did this again I would opt to staying in town or at least closer.
Nice breakfast the next morning which included among other things the delicious Cebreiro cheese (very creamy, a bit similar to cream cheese, but better!). And it was here that I made a BIG mistake: I had TWO cafés con leche(my downfall when in Spain, I adore their café con leche), and a BIG zumo de naranja, etc. I would later pay for this.
When we finished breakfast, Esther’s husband drove us to Triacastela, to take the Triacastela to Sarria via Samos path. The Camino out of Triacastela offers you two choices to Sarria: either via San Xil , a shorter route (about 19 kms) or the longer , alternative route via Samos , where the old Benedictine monastery of Samos is located (about 25 kms). We selected the latter. For about the first 3.5 kms you walk on the road, mostly behind a guardrail , but still a little unnerving. I was hoping that by the time we reached the village of San Cristobo there would be an open bar for a “rest stop”, but no such luck. Just many dogs, cats and cows meandering around town, the bar was still closed. So we embarked in several detours trying to find a restroom and wasted precious time doing this. It was quite an “adventure”. Lesson learned: find out about available rest stops and plan accordingly how many cafés con leche you can drink at breakfast!
By the time we got Samos (about 10 kms from Triacastela) , unfortunately, the Monastery had closed (would reopen at 4PM) , so we were only able to see it from the outside. That was disappointing and it was entirely my fault. By the way, the way you come into view of the Monastery, from atop the road, is very dramatic, makes for a great photo op.
We had a light lunch of bocadillos at a café in front of the Monastery and then started our walk to Sarria. As soon as we did, it started to rain. It wasn't hard, more like a steady drizzle but it was raw and damp. We decided it was a good time to wear our rain ponchos for the first time (it would not be the last!). Our next rest stop was the Taberna del Camino in Sivil, where the San Xil route joins the Samos route.
We were now eager to make our way to Sarria, where we arrived about 5:00. After a brief stop at the Information office for a map, we continued into the town center. We debated between finding a bar for a drink or calling the owner of the B&B where we were staying that night for a ride, and opted for the latter. Javier picked us up in about 15-20 mins to take us to the lovely Rectoral de Goian http://www.rectoraldegoian.com. The house has a tranquil and very pastoral setting. Rooms were big, comfortable, and with a lot of character ( 66 euros for a double,w/breakfast). After we cleaned up we had drinks in the terrace, followed by a delicious meal prepared by Javier and his wife Raquel, the owners. I believe it was about 15 euros PP, very reasonable given the quality of the meal. There were no choices, but we had no complaints!
Although we really liked this casa rural, if I ever did this again I would opt to staying in town or at least closer.
Jul 12th, 2012, 07:03 AM
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Thank you for such an enjoyable read. Walking the Camino is something I dream about doing but doubt it will actually happen due to certain circumstances in my life so reading your report is almost like being there.
A bit off this actual topic... anyone interested in the Camino might love to read the most fabulous book by Cheryl Strayed, "Gift". It is her story of hiking over 1,000 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail, alone, with just about no actual experience and how she comes to turn her life around. Great read and extrememly well written.
A bit off this actual topic... anyone interested in the Camino might love to read the most fabulous book by Cheryl Strayed, "Gift". It is her story of hiking over 1,000 miles of the Pacific Crest Trail, alone, with just about no actual experience and how she comes to turn her life around. Great read and extrememly well written.
Jul 14th, 2012, 03:38 AM
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Cruiseluv
“Walking the Camino is something I dream about doing but doubt it will actually happen due to certain circumstances in my life so reading your report is almost like being there.”
Count me in with Lowcountrycarol above. I am sure there are many of us in the same boat.
I did visit SANTIAGO DE COMPESTELLA a few years back on a tour of northern Spain. There was a charming older couple in our group – from Australia but of Irish decent. The fellow had done a long camino a few years before with a friend so he wanted to show his wife Annie the area.
He had written a terrific blog of the experience which is no longer on the web – amusing and moving.
To see the pilgrims like yourself along the road approaching their destination is very touching. I thought the town itself magnificent.
Cruiseluv, thanks for sharing what others dream about….
“Walking the Camino is something I dream about doing but doubt it will actually happen due to certain circumstances in my life so reading your report is almost like being there.”
Count me in with Lowcountrycarol above. I am sure there are many of us in the same boat.
I did visit SANTIAGO DE COMPESTELLA a few years back on a tour of northern Spain. There was a charming older couple in our group – from Australia but of Irish decent. The fellow had done a long camino a few years before with a friend so he wanted to show his wife Annie the area.
He had written a terrific blog of the experience which is no longer on the web – amusing and moving.
To see the pilgrims like yourself along the road approaching their destination is very touching. I thought the town itself magnificent.
Cruiseluv, thanks for sharing what others dream about….
Jul 14th, 2012, 04:49 AM
#34
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I'll be very happy to meet a group in 2013 at some point to do part of the camino in a very simple way anyone can do ..
Let's see if we can make some of these dreams come true.
I think many of you just need a little prodding and someone to set part of it up for you.
Let's see if we can make some of these dreams come true.
I think many of you just need a little prodding and someone to set part of it up for you.
Jul 14th, 2012, 06:06 AM
#35
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Lin, pls keep me posted of those plans! And I want to second what you say, a little prodding and reassurance can go a long way.
I'm not a hiker by any stretch of the imagination, and it was not until recent months that I started doing any serious walking to perpare for the Camino. At times it was tough, but much less that I feared.
I would love to do a portion again walking alongside like minded friends. Even though I went with my family most of the time I was walking alone because they walk much faster than me(which was fine but I missed having somebody next to me to compare notes) .
I'll try to come back soon to continue the trip report. Right now I only have an Ipad and Its tough for me to write long on it.
I'm not a hiker by any stretch of the imagination, and it was not until recent months that I started doing any serious walking to perpare for the Camino. At times it was tough, but much less that I feared.
I would love to do a portion again walking alongside like minded friends. Even though I went with my family most of the time I was walking alone because they walk much faster than me(which was fine but I missed having somebody next to me to compare notes) .
I'll try to come back soon to continue the trip report. Right now I only have an Ipad and Its tough for me to write long on it.
Jul 16th, 2012, 11:00 AM
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Lin, I am planning on doing at least the Sarria to Santiago portion probably the first week of Oct 2013, so I'd be very interested in meeting anyone going at that time.
cruiseluv, I am SO enjoying your report!!
cruiseluv, I am SO enjoying your report!!
