Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

mum wants to go to iceland

Search

mum wants to go to iceland

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Jan 9th, 2008, 01:35 PM
  #21  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Hi astein,

thanks for the encouragement, and the tips about bakeries.

we booked our flights today. the ryanair flight was a prime example of a mismatch between the head-line rate, and what we paid.

for the return leg, it said .99 - that's right - 99p.

by the time we'd added in taxes,a bag each & check-in costs, it was £30 ish.

what next? - paying for servicing the aircraft? supplements for a plane with wings? extra for a pilot?

anyway, i think the time has come to do some serious reading about the various areas and work out where we really want to go. How far in advance of your trip did you book your accommodation?

did you use a guide book,and if so, was it any good?

regards, ann
annhig is offline  
Old Jan 9th, 2008, 02:32 PM
  #22  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I used the Insight Guide for Iceland and the Landmark Visitors Guide. Both were very good. I also had the Freytag and Berndt Iceland roadmap (which is huge and very detailed).

We found that there were great free maps available at many of the places we stayed, supermarkets, etc. These were mostly regional maps and were very helpful.

We didn't do much booking until about 2 months before the trip and books some as late as the week before the trip. Then again, the trip was in October, so most of the places were empty.
astein12 is offline  
Old Jan 9th, 2008, 02:40 PM
  #23  
 
Join Date: Jan 2006
Posts: 6,518
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Jumping in here, hopefully to augment and not hijack the thread.

What is the food like? A typical breakfast and dinner?

I'm expecting it to be short on fruits and vegetables, with lots of fish, but I hope that the rest isn't mutton and puffin eggs (both of which we were served in Norway).
enzian is offline  
Old Jan 9th, 2008, 02:45 PM
  #24  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Hi enzian,

the impression I get is that there is lots of fresh fish, and quite a lot of preeserved fish and meat.

during the summer, they grow a lot of veg and salads indoors - and bananas, apparently.

astein -thanks for the tips on guide books. we've already bought a map [not brilliant unfortunately, but not much call for maps of iceland in cornwall!]

I think I'll be hitting amazon soon.

as our trip in in high season, and there are four of us to accommodate I'm hoping to sort our bookings out before easter.

regards, ann

regards, ann
annhig is offline  
Old Jan 9th, 2008, 03:27 PM
  #25  
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Ann,
I am enjoying your trip report. I am hoping to do a similar trip in the future.

Would love to hear all the details of which places you liked best, where do you wish you had spent more time, what could have been left out (if any). My husband and I generally prefer to be in the countryside and as a keen photographer the spectacular scenery would be right up his alley.
shandy is offline  
Old Jan 9th, 2008, 03:30 PM
  #26  
 
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,003
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
My apologies, last past should have been directed to astein.
shandy is offline  
Old Jan 9th, 2008, 04:07 PM
  #27  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Some food commments... Breakfast was typically a buffet with standard mix of fruit, veggies, bread, cereal, yogurt/sourmilk and some extras that varied by location. These included smoke lamb, smoked trout, waffles, eggs dishes, hard boiled eggs, ham, herring and pastries (see my lodging reviews above).

One thing to note was that fruit and veggies were quite abundant. Some are imported, some are grown in geothermally heated greehouses. It was somewhat expensive in the supermarkets, but not terribly priced.

Dinner varied widely. We ate fish on a number of nights (including halibut, cod, arctic char, fish and chips, lobster soup, etc.) but also had hamburgers, chicken, etc. So, basically, there is fish available at most places, but there is good variety at most places.

Food was generally excellent and very well presented. Even in the middle of nowhere, in very generic looking places, the food was alway better than expected. For example, we had gas station hamburgers on night... no frozen burgers here... the woman fresh made the patties and hand cut the fries... it may have cost $15 per person, but it was a good burger.
astein12 is offline  
Old Jan 17th, 2008, 09:41 AM
  #28  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
hi astein, and others,

i'm in a bit of a tiz at the moment, so coming back for some help.

our flights are now booked - into Iceland on Tues. 29th and out, very early, on august 9th. [sorry if I already said that - i've lost track]. Despite horrendous taxes, we've still managed to get from our very local airport in Cornwall to Iceland and back, via Stanstead, for less than £300 pp return.

so far so good. unfortunately, that lands us in Iceland not only bang in the middle of the tourist season, but also at the height of the icelandic holidays, which means that some accommodation is already gone.

after a lot of consideration, we have decided to concentrate on the south and west of the island. we then decided to swap our direction of travel and go south first. this is where we run into trouble, as the hotel we liked [Hotel Hellnar]on the Snaefellnes peninsular which could do our first dates is now simply ignoring my e-mails, suggesting to me that our alternative dates are already booked.

How do other people manage juggling preferred hotels and routes?

if I stick to our first plan and, i presume, still reserved rooms at the hotel Hellnar, we have to drive from the airprt to the snaefellnes peninsular on the day we arive [about 3pm]. It's supposed to be abotu 200km - is that too far?

if I go for the 2nd idea [the south first, then the peninsular - when do we go for the end of the holiday? Back to the middle? - is there much to do at Borganes?

would we be better to go north first, then stay near Gullfoss [I've found a lovely guest-hosue there] then go south?

Help - I'm in a real stew.

regards, ann
annhig is offline  
Old Jan 17th, 2008, 02:00 PM
  #29  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hey Ann...

Just a few things... First, call the hotel. We ran into one situation where the folks at one hotel were just not particularly computer literate. A quick phone call solved the issue.

Borgnares didn't have a ton to do, but there is a good museum (with a good restaurant) and there is a kind of cool local bar to eat in (owner is a local, his wife does the cooking and is from the Philippines... makes for an interesting menu... try the Plokkfiskur (Icelandic mashed fish)). That said, it's not a bad location... close enough to Reykjavic and the Golden Circle... generally close enough to Snaefellnes (althought staying out on the peninsula would probably be better).

I'm personally OK with 200km of a drive after arrival but I can see your concern (especially if the flight is late). I'd probably head south... do the southern areas... then come back thru the Golden Circle area (do it as Gulfoss, then Geysir, then Pingvelir... maybe stay in that area) and then go out to Snaefellnes.

My other thought would be to go into Reykjavic the first night... have a good dinner there... spend a 1/2 day or so there the next day... and then head out to Snaefellnes.

As for the general route vs. lodging question... I usually start with a big map and start marking it with things we want to see or do. We then try to draw up a reasonable route that covers those things. After that we pick locations on that route that make sense and try to find good lodging in those locations. If that doesn't work, we start modifying and looking for alternatives.

Lastly... take a deep breath, have a pint, and don't worry... no matter what you do, it'll be a great trip.
astein12 is offline  
Old Jan 18th, 2008, 12:10 PM
  #30  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Hi astein,

thanks for the words of comfort. i had a glass [or two] or wine with supper so am feelingg a little more mellow.

Yes, I was coming round to the idea of phoning the hotel in the morning - then I can hopefully discuss my various ideas with them.

and having looked again at Borganes, it doesn't seem as if there would be much there for us to do, especially the kids. so for the moment, it's off the list.

However, having originally thought about Gulfoss area jsut for a dday trip I've found what looks like a great guesthouse in that area, so at the moment, i'm looking at

Plan A - if the hotel on the S'ness peninsular can still take us at the beginning]:

3 nights snaefellnes [i can type that without looking now]

3/4 nights Gulfoss

3 nights south coast [2 very nice cottages avaiable at present]

1 night near the blue Lagoon/airport.

Plan B

3/4 nights in the south

3/4 nights Gulfoss

3 nights Snaefellnes

1 night blue lagoon/airport [essential as we have an early flight home].

which would you prefer, if either?

will it really matter if we don't see Reykjavik much? [or at all] - in the 2nd itinerary, we could fit a night in Reykjavik in on the way back from Snaefellnes

am I spending too long at one place/not long enough elsewhere?

Time for another , I think,

thanks for all your help,

Regards, ann
annhig is offline  
Old Jan 18th, 2008, 12:46 PM
  #31  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I think either is fine... I'd take the extra day of your 3/4 days in the south and Gulfoss and concentrate on the south. While the Golden Circle is great, I thought there was a lot to see down south.

If you can get a hotel out on the penisula, then missing Borganes is definitely not a big deal.

If you can swing a stop in Reykjavic on the way back, I'd do it. While I've also found some of 'a city is a city' and usually avoid spending too much times in them, I did like Reykjavic. Some interesting restaurants and I really liked the Culture House museum.

Once you finalize the itinerary, let me know and I'll try to point to you any off-the-beaten track must see's and places to eat.
astein12 is offline  
Old Jan 18th, 2008, 12:51 PM
  #32  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Hi astein -

what in particular did you like in the south? at the moment, we're looking at getting no further than Vik - are we missing some "must sees"?

sorry to keep plaguing you with qs,

regards, ann
annhig is offline  
Old Jan 19th, 2008, 07:07 AM
  #33  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Down south, take a look at:
- seljalandsfoss (cool waterfall that you can actually walk behind the water)
- skogafoss and the trail and other falls above it (this is great and because you have to climb about 15 flights of stairs to get to the top, there aren't many people on the trail).
- systrafoss and the trail and lake above it.
- Skaftafell National Park
- Jökulsárlón glacial lagoon (may be too far away)

Much of it will depend on how much driving you're comfortable with.
astein12 is offline  
Old Jan 19th, 2008, 12:18 PM
  #34  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
thanks again, astein.

we're revising our plans, [again!] to try to take in the western fjords. somehow it doesn't seem possible to fit in the delights of the south/south east without going right round the ring road, or going back on ourselves, neither of which appeals.

it seems that whatever we include, we'll have to leave something really special out!


ho hum..perhaps i'll just leave it to a travel agent - then I'll have someone else to blame!

regards, ann
annhig is offline  
Old Jan 20th, 2008, 08:41 AM
  #35  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
hi, y'all,

after lots of revisons, we finally settled on this plan and have started booking accommodation going for a combination of cabins and guest houses to keep down costs.

Day 1-4 - cottage in south iceland about a two hour drive from the airport. from there we can reach the south coast, the hekla volcano, do some walking, perhaps even make it to the Westerman islands. there's a restaurant on site if we don't fancy cooking. [I won't].

Day 4-6 - guest house near Gulfoss. we can see the golden circle sights, and there are activities like river rafting near-by if the kids are interested.

Day 6 - long drive up to the western fjords - about 200 miles. the plan is to stay somewhere on the south coast so that we can spend Day 7 touring round the area. i really want to get out to the Latrabjarg cliffs, which have the highest concentration of birds in Iceland and form the most westerly part of europe.

DAy 8 - ferry across to Snaefellnes, to stay in cottage near Grundafjord - on the north coast. one day touring the glacier, another taking a boat trip to look at whales and birds. stay 3 nights.

DAy 11 - drive down to Reykjavik, prior to flight home the next day. stay at the Northern Lights inn.

Prices - so far, the flights have cost us about £250 each.

the car hire wil be about another £1000.

accommodation - cottages/cabins are about ISK 10,000-12,000 per night, plus sheets, say £100 per night. Guesthouses are twice that for rooms with baths [sorry, I draw a line at shared bathrooms, especially as we have the kids with us].

with 6 nights at £100 and 5 nights at £200, that comes in at about £1600 for 11 nights.

total so far - £3,600 or £900 each for 11 days/nights.

the cheapest I was quoted by an agent was £1400 pp though that did include some activities.

comments anyone?

regards, ann
annhig is offline  
Old Jan 20th, 2008, 12:24 PM
  #36  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Hey Ann,

Looks like a good plan to me... let me know the towns that your south and Golden Circle lodging are in and I'll let you know any things we found of interest, restaurants in the area, etc. that we came across. Will do the same for the Snaefellsnes area and Reykjavik (although you won't have a ton of time there).

Pricing seems pretty reasonable. You'll have to let me know how the cabin thing works out.

Later!
alan
astein12 is offline  
Old Jan 21st, 2008, 09:01 AM
  #37  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Hi alan,

the specific lodgings that we have found are as follows:

smaratun in Fljotshild [cottage] 13km east of Hvolsvollur [web-site only in Icelandic -that was fun!]

farmhouse efsti-Dalur near gullfoss

hotel Flokalundur at Vatnesfjordur [western fjords - with pan-fried breast of puffin on the menu - yum]

snaefellnes peninsular - ???

nothern lights inn - we'll eat in the restaurant there, I imagine.

the only bit stil to be sotred out is teh snaefellnes bit. the hotel i liked which wasn't answering me finally came through - the owner was in hospital having an op - so not answering anyone.

the choices seem to be:

nice hotel [choice of north or south coast, or the far western end]

cottage in grundarfjord on the north coast, 4 beds but only one bedroom - [not sure I want to be that close to our kids for 3 nights]

possible cottage at arnastapi on south coast

guesthouse near grundafjord with shared bath. [ a BIG saving]

I'm not really sure about the relative merits of the north coast v the south - the nicest hotels are definitely on the south and they are closer to the glacier, but for restaurants, boat trips etc., the north looks better.

any thoughts?

a cottage is about half the price of a hotel; however, the hotel will include a big breakfast, so we'll save on lunch [I hope]. and we don't have to eat in every night.

many thanks again for your continued help and interest - it's been great help.

regards, ann





annhig is offline  
Old Jan 24th, 2008, 06:10 AM
  #38  
 
Join Date: Oct 2003
Posts: 898
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I'll pull out my map and notes over the weekend and send you my ideas...


Later!
astein12 is offline  
Old Jan 24th, 2008, 12:58 PM
  #39  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Hi astein,

still waiting for the SAME hotel to come back to me - AGAIN - they are beginning to try my patience, low carbon footprint or not.

so no hurry!

Regards, ann
annhig is offline  
Old Feb 4th, 2008, 09:01 AM
  #40  
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Feb 2006
Posts: 57,091
Received 5 Likes on 3 Posts
Hi y'all,

well after al your help, especially Astein, we've come up with the following itinerary:

Day 1 - arrive mid afternoon. Drive south east to Smaratun for 3 nights in a rented cottage.

Day 4 - drive to Gulfoss for 2 nights in guest-house.

Day 6 - long drive [probably about 400km but it's difficult to tell] to western fjords for 2 nights in hotel near the ferry port to snaefellnes.

DAy 8 - ferry to Snaefellnes peninsular, stay 3 nights near Grunarfjord in cottage.

Day 11 - drive to Blue Lagoon, stay 1 night at Northern Loghts hotel.

Day 12 - early flight home.

My only wory is Days 5/6 - should we head off to the western fjords one day early, thus curtailing our stay near Gulfoss or is the drive doable, given that there are two of us to do it?

thoughts anyone?

regards, ann
annhig is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -