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Old Dec 29th, 2007, 06:34 PM
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I have been playing with Google Earth & thought it might help you with the restaurants. It shows exactly where they are, all in 3D from photos. http://www.google-earth-soft.info/

Unlike many of Rick Steves' suggested hotels La Bard is on the elegant side but not really within walking distance of much, except the Monfort Castle.
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Old Dec 29th, 2007, 08:21 PM
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Re staying right in Sarlat, at Chambres du Glacier, it was a little noisy on the market day that we were there - Wednesday. But the only noise I really heard were the pipes that are used to form the side of the booths; no people or vehicles driving in or out. It bothered my husband a little (though not enough to wake him up), but I so much enjoyed being right there, that it was worth the tradeoff (obviously, not the choice that everyone would make).

Re parking and driving, we were in Sarlat in late May, and the traffic was a bit of an issue. Not because of the volume, but because May is apparently the time of year to do roadwork. So the rush-hour traffic into Sarlat at the end of our tourist day was delayed by the roadworks (I don't recall problems leaving town). Parking wasn't ever a problem - we always easily found free parking that was within 1-2 blocks of our B&B.

On Relais des Cinq Chateau, we haven't stayed there, but we did eat dinner there on a previous trip to the Dordogne. We liked the food, but weren't wowed by it. The place was nice enough, with great views after dark of the lit-up castles up and down the valley, but it wasn't luxurious or wonderful. As I recall, it's a hotel stuck in the middle of the valley, with not much around it within walking distance. But everything in that area is quite close by car.
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 02:43 AM
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We spent a week at Les Granges Hautes in Oct 2006 and it was blissful. We also stayed in Zorba and found the breakfast great, and the people very nice. They had great recommendations for dinners, and also cooked in house for all the guests on 2 nights a week. Highly recommend it!
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 04:33 AM
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Hi NS,

All of the little towns are 2-5 km from each other.

If you have a problem with night vision and absolutely can't drive, I think that Cinq Chateaux is too isolated for you.

Logis de France recommends Belle Etoile in La Roque Gageac. It has gotten good reviews here.

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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 05:18 AM
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We loved the little town of La Roque Gageac and enjoyed two meals at the Belle Etoile. It's very central to the attractions of the area and quiet in the evening. We were staying in a Gite outside Cenac but ended most of our days at the little bar by the river in La Roque...views of the river on one side and views of the town built into the rock on the other side.

We visited Domme twice and did not form a strong attachment to it...it has beautiful views of the valley and river but the main square seems choked with traffic.... and it has too many tacky tourist shops for my liking. Just my opinion but I was glad we had not chosen it as a base. We were there in May as well and there was always plenty of parking in La Roque.

Good luck with your travel plans. My photos of the Dordogne are at www.kodakgallery.com/crazy4travel
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 09:25 AM
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So much to choose from!

The nice chambres d'hôte that we are looking into are in these villages :

St-André-Allas
Vézac
Groléjac
Beynac

Since we will be coming out of a 1-week stay in Paris, we would rather stay in a village or the countryside, as long as we don't have to drive too much at night after dinner and a few glasses of wine!

Is any one of these villages better suited for our needs (good restaurants but not too expensive nearby + nice places to walk in the evening)?
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 09:30 AM
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I am by no means an expert, but I would think that Beynac fits the bill. Let's hear what others have to say.

p.s. Our trip last spring was my first time driving in Europe, and no matter where we set off to from Sarlat, we found ourselves driving through Beynac. Good thing it's so pretty!

http://www.pbase.com/leelygoes/france_2007
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 09:38 AM
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Hi J,

Where are you planning on staying in Beynac?

There isn't too much there. Although there is a very good artisinal bakery with a wood burning oven.

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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 09:54 AM
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Hi, joj,

just a note of caution - the snd B&B in your link is giving prices per person, not per room. that makes them pretty pricy, IMO. the first one wasn't clear whether it was pp or per room, which is more usual in France.

a traditional hotel might well end up considerably cheaper.

Personally I prefer to be able to wander around a town at night, find a restaurant &/or bar, rather than having to drive, especaily if I've been driving all day. it also inhibits alcohol consumption for at least one person, though I appreciate that not everyone goes to france for the wine, I certainly do.



chaqu'un a son gout!

regards, ann
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 10:03 AM
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The place in Beynac is this one :
http://www.residence-versailles.com/fr/index.htm

annhig: I've had confirmation from the owner of our 2nd choice and it is 51 euros per room for two.
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 10:26 AM
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I'd definitely take Grolejac off the list, and probably Saint-Andre Allas. Beynac has a few commercial establishments, so it might work. I'd highly recommend La Roque-Gageac or Domme if you don't want to be right in Sarlat but do want to be able to walk to restaurants, cafes, stores, etc. Check out La Plume d'Oie in La Roque-Gageac. I believe in addition to being a great, if quirky, restaurant, they rent a few rooms.
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 01:35 PM
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I found a cheap chambre d'hôte in Domme (logis de la belle coutelière). I'm worried about driving in and out of the village after some Fodorites commented on this. Is this an issue in early May?
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 01:43 PM
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hi again, jojo,

that's a good price! is that les filolies? I liked the look of the swimming pool.

regards, ann
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 01:45 PM
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No, it won't be an issue in early May. I mean, only one car at a time can pass through the village entrances, so you might have to wait a few minutes, but it won't be a big deal.
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 02:14 PM
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It looks like it is shared bath at the Logis de la belle coutelière? I would want to clarify that in advance so you know up front as I think 4 rooms share 2 bathrooms.

Beynac is a cute little town and it does have a few restaurants and shops.
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 02:19 PM
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>>Beynac is a cute little town <<

That might be an understatement - it's perhaps the most photographed village in the Dordogne. Best views are from a boat or canoe on the river.

Stu Dudley
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 03:00 PM
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My MIL lives up the road from Residence Versailles. It's a very good location to see the area, and you are within walking distance to several restaurants, although none that wowed me. (still-it's France)

A very short walk away is the back trail to Beynac Castle. I love that trail. It's solitary and it has beautiful valley views. At the top it takes you past a cemetery and suddenly you're at the castle with the throngs of people.

Residence Versailles itself looks very pleasant and quiet. Sarlat is a ten minute drive away (at least in May).
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Old Dec 30th, 2007, 05:04 PM
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crazyfortravel:
Great pictures; they bring back fun memories. I loved the one of the bus going through the opening in the rock. We tried to take that picture (minus the bus) but it was too dark. Also, La Roque Christophe had a fire & was still closed in November so we missed it.
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Old Dec 31st, 2007, 03:24 AM
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Stu...yes the view of Beynac with its imposing castle from a distance is stunning. I have photos of it from almost every position. The town up close...is a cute little town with a nice position by the river. We visited the Castle in the morning and had lunch by the river. We were going to stroll through town but there's not really much to speak of. The hike from town up to the Castle would be nice on a good day. We arrived in the rain and fortunately it cleared up by the time lunch rolled around. I think the town boasts at least one good restaurant.

Thank you Mimmel...we didn't have enough time to do an inside visit of Le Roque Christophe. I was very sad to hear of the fire and its closing.
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Old Dec 31st, 2007, 03:51 AM
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>The hike from town up to the Castle would be nice on a good day.

My Lady Wife and I did that. It is a very steep climb.

For those who don't care to haul themselves up steep hills, there is a parking lot at the back of the Castle.
Fee is 1E.

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