mokka4

It occurs to me, that as I plan NEXT year's trip, I never posted a TR from THIS year's travel to French Switzerland! So here goes:
Late April, and a former colleague and I left for ZRH via JFK. LONG layover, so we each bought a Delta Sky Club Pass--well worth the $50 to sit outside on the shaded SkyDeck eating nibbles and drinking house wines and beers!
Because we both agreed to sign up for an AmExpress card (later cancelled), we got priority boarding on all segments of both trips, going and returning!
We arrived to Zurich a bit earlier than scheduled, so it was no trouble to purchase the 8-day FlexPass and still catch an earlier train.
Quite warm on our arrival day, which would prove enduring.

PalenQ

Yes you can buy a Swiss Travel Pass at any main Swiss train station including those at airports. But check prices for same pass in home country as in case of U S at least at times during past have been cheaper here than there - sometimes significantly so - due to currency fluctuations but if about same price just buy in Switzerland.

Adelaidean

Looking forward to this, mokka, we are heading to Vevey in June.

suze

Marchés folkloriques de Vevey - Accueil
For anyone in the Vevey area in July-August, this is an excellent local event!

mokka4

So, our last regional train from Montreux to Chernex is a 2-car regional streetcar, and takes just 9 minutes.
The scenery is awesome! Beautiful Lake Geneva with the snow-capped French Alps ringing the southern shores. And the vineyards squeezed into every space along the northern shores!

Our town stop is an unmanned station with an Automat for tickets (good thing I had looked up a lot of train schedules in advance, at home!)
There is a small pastry shop adjoining, but it looks closed! There is a French sign in the window, but there are staff/people behind the counter.
And so begins our pantomime to understand what was up....We gather that something has broken. The sign lists a date 3-4 days in the future...I feel out of sorts not knowing any basic French. I can understand German well, and have always been 'in control' in the German-speaking parts!
But no morning fresh bread? Aaawwww! Not the best start.
Our AirBnB (first time with THEM) is a few blocks downhill, next to a Denners (at least we can get basic groceries, although you gotta be quick to get the trucked- in daily bread) and around the corner from,the Post.

Air Conditioned lobby...yes!
Elevator...good too. We enter our 3rd floor apt and are floored by the balcony facing over the neighborhood, lake and mountains...Just beautiful!
My friend has not been to Switzerland before, so her camera did not stop for a while! And I also have a multitude of photos from this vantage point...this is morning on Monday, but that's evening on Thursday, and there's midday on Friday.
Beautiful sunset, then the lights of a French village on the distant shore opposite light up!
The neighborhood is dead quiet at night. I do not think there are any other stores or cafes in this truly residential 'burb. But then again, we never once walked down lower toward Lake Geneva!

mokka4

We began our daily routine of heading back 'down' into Montreux in search of dinner. It was now actually HOT. So, hot, tired and hungry we walked down the train station steps toward the lakeside promenade. Beautiful plantings of tulips in varying color groupings were oh, so pretty all along the lake!
Montreux is big and busy. I'm glad we didn't make our night base here.
Nearing desperation, we settled on a pizza truck, sitting on a lakeside bench in the shade, while devouring our oil-dripping treat.
We walked a short bit to the Freddie Mercury statue, then totally petered out, knowing that we had yet to return to our suburb for sleep.

mokka4

The next day was Saturday, so our morning target was Vevey and its market on Grand Place.
Very warm again! Beautiful open air market with bunches of lilacs and fresh fruits and vegetables + delish breads (pain au chocolat please!), cheeses, sausages and jams along the lovely lake.
Bought some fruit for the evening and wandered the small alleys of the old town, worth its inviting shops and cafes.
Saw the Alimentarium fork on the lake, but too nice to spend time inside!
We had tried to find an apartment in Vevey as first choice, but it wasn't meant to be .

mokka4

Our afternoon plan HAD been to go up the Rochers de Naye, but I had noticed several signs over the last few days (French of course!) noting some sort of closure from Jamblon onward. It listed dates that I thought it was CLOSED, so we chose a 'safe' date (ha).
As we boarded the specific Rochers de Naye cars (marmots here we come!), a woman official inquired what our destination was. We confidently answered RdN. And she said huh-uh. NOT possible today. Closed above Jamblon due to 'threat on the tracks.' Darn language barrier! It appears the dates on the flyers were "open" days, not "closed" days!
She suggested that we go as far as HodeKo for lunch, views and sun.
Could you spell that kindly train official? Well, just as it sounds, she replies...kindly writing Haut de Caut!
So, Haut de Caut is a 'yawn and miss it stop', commonly used as a starting point for hikes...STEEP paths upward in the blazing sun. In April. Climate change is real, y'all!
Spotting a nearby playground, picnic area and Gastwirt, we were off ! And downhill!

swandav2000

Hi mokka4,

So glad you are writing this trip report! I was curious about how your accommodation had worked out since it was (to me) a bit inconvenient. I'm glad to see you enjoyed it!

I'm surprised to hear how crowded (busy??) it was in Montreux in April. I know it's like that in the summer months, and I avoid it seriously from May - Sep. I wonder if more people are coming earlier because it's warmed up so much due to climate change. I also tend to stay (I believe I've told you this before, not sure) in Territet or Veytaux and try to avoid the center of town. It's always quieter there -- just as it was for you in Chernex.

Anyway, I'll be heading there in about six weeks, hoping to catch a bit of fall colors, so your report is really whetting my appetite!

Thanks again!

s

Hambagahle

Don't feel too disappointed! You would not have seen any active marmottes in April anyway - they are still hibernating. They don't really "wake up" until late May/early June.

mokka4

The inviting Gastwirt was Le Cou-Cou.
We sat on the outdoor terrace with a barely sufficient sunbrella for lunch with even loftier views of the snowy French Alps! They had an international beer selection (bad on me!), so a frosty Ipanema satisfied. I had a rich open-faced toast with melted cheese, ham and egg (22 chf + 5 for beer).
Service was seriously leisurely, but we HAD to run after just 90 minutes, as just ONE train per hour ran in either direction.
We met an Australian gent- a neonatal physician who had travelled to Montreux for a medical conference and had the afternoon off.
Upon return to 'our' hometown, we stopped to peruse the vending machine.
My friend asked, "WHAT can cost 24 chf?"
Closer inspection found a "Maybe Baby" pregnancy test. Next to condoms. And above the Canabis-Tea.
But amongst the candy bars, energy drinks, sewing kits and sodas!
Of course, I bought 2 of the Cannabis Teas. Just to try ;-)
What are the laws regarding mary jane in the country? I remember several years ago spotting beautiful potted pot plants outside of a florist in Thun. My nephew accidentally knocked over the plant, cracking the pot of the pot plant (much to the owners chagrin!) I had to insist then, "No, we cannot bring one home!"

mokka4

Back in Chernex we picked up a few nibbles at Denners and sat once again on our balcony to eat dinner with wine.
It was only then that we realized we could see Chateau Chillon! HOW had we missed that before!
Decided to walk along the lakeside promenade tomorrow to visit (Sunday).
Went to watch news on TV, before finally realizing that it must have been unplugged by the cleaning personnel. No wonder we hadn't been able to connect to WIFI! Problem fixed! Just 3 stations in English-CNN International, BBC World News and CNBC News.
I settled on the german language channels after emailing my pics.

Adelaidean

Enjoying this, mokka

mokka4

Sunday would be a self-pay day, so we paid the 9.30 chf fare RT to Montreux.
Once in Montreux, we noted where the 201 bus stop would be on return. Starting at the lakeside promenade, we walked in the very warm morning sun toward Chateau Chillon, approximately 2 miles away. Beautiful flower beds and natural material sculptures in playful shapes along the way. We stopped several times at the many available benches for shade and photos as we approached the castle. It took about 1 1/4 hours to reach.
Entrance 12.50 + 6 for English audioguide.
Although we just nosed out a bus full of Asian tourists, visitors moved at their own pace, so we never felt jammed up inside the castle.
We spent about 90 minutes viewing the castle, then caught bus 201 back to Montreux (3.70€ one-way).
Many, many people lakeside on this Sunday in the hot sun! I had never seen so many people wearing shorts in all my prior trips to Germany or Switzerland (note to self: capris are absolutely acceptable!).

mokka4

Back in Montreux, we spotted lakeside Restaurant Molino, with its crowded terrace. Thankfully we were quickly seated in the cool and classic interior (marble Italian decor).
We both had the Mediterranean salad with yummy grilled vegetables and fresh mozzarella perles atop a spring mix + roll (19.50 chf).
Refreshed and cooled off, we wandered further into the city along the promenade.
This being a Sunday with wonderful weather (temp mid to high 70s), the crowds of families with children, couples, dogs being walked, bikers, skaters and scooter-riders were about. We heard French with a smattering of German and Italian, very little English.
Creperie Bellamia beckoned and I gave into a cinnamon-sugar treat. We saw very few other places offering crepes during our visit to southwestern Switzerland-surprising to me.
It was getting very windy, so we ended our people-watching and headed home, picking up croissants at the chain Fleur de pains along the way.
That night there were furious howling winds all night long, but very little rain and no thunder or lightening. Nice to be safely in bed!

mokka4

Slightly cooler the next day. After finding that the Nespresso machine in our apartment wasn't working correctly (I had carried a few Nespresso capsules from home to enjoy), we headed out for Gruyeres. I had been to this lovely town before, and thought my friend would enjoy it.

Construction was ongoing at the Montbovon to Grandvillard section, so a bus was substituted. All the other travelers rushed to another bus, and just my friend and I crossed for a different bus. The driver assured me he was going to Grandvillard!
Nice, new perspective of the countryside on a bus.
After the final S-train, we arrived at Gruyeres, and opted to trek uphill.
Very warm climbing with a few other visitors.
Great views of the green fields and Le Moleson mountain.
Arrived at the usual town portal, just above the bus lot. Strolled slowly toward the chapel and Cemetary, then up to the castle. I had previously visited Giger's bizarre museum, so passed that up.
We waited for the next informational prologue while visiting the gardens, which were not so impressive at this time of the year (only tulips, many of which were past their prime).
Self-toured the castle, with its lovely views.
Afterwards, we were ready for lunch.

mokka4

Hungry and hot (a recurrent theme?), we settled on the back terrace of La Maison des Traditions--it turned out to be the same cafe where I ate a few years ago!
A table of young Swiss men, all in military uniform, ordered platters of food and many beers. Likely their mandatory reserve training?
I had a glass of Erdinger Blanche (wheat beer) at 6.50 chf and plain Roesti (16.60chf) ...delish.

Following lunch, we walked down the handrailed path toward the Bahnhof. We had a brief surprise when a small herd of cows came charging down the hill, stopped abruptly after regarding the electric wire, then reversed course, heading back uphill!
It was actually quite comical more than scary!
Too fast to capture on film, it was a moment that will stay with me.
Purchased a large Henniez water and a bag of chocolate Villars mix (for souvenirs) at the gift shop across from the Bahnhof.
Slightly cooler/windy evening back in our 'hood.
Denners was still open for a bottle of rose and some eggs....

mokka4

It was gently raining the next morning, so we decided on a city visit. Although I had never been to Lausanne, E. preferred to see Bern, and I didn't mind revisiting.
Nicely cooler, we headed in a new direction today, toward busy Lausanne, before the final train to Bern, a trip of 2 hours.

It was raining here as well. We located the Bahnhof TI for a map, then walked along the main avenue.
Market with many goods stalls was still ongoing! We browsed for a while and I located my apartment from a few years ago, near Munsterplatz.

Lunch was at the Gfeller am Baerenplatz--multiple Lunchteller options. I chose gnocchi with green asparagus in gorgonzola sauce (18.50 chf), while E. opted for a pork cutlet with soup and salad. They offered a selection of wonderful-looking desserts as well.

Back to sightseeing. The clock tower was being renovated and was hidden behind netting. We browsed many of the two level arcaded shops, picking up a couple fabric shopping bags.
Walking further to the Nydeggbruecke, we spotted no bears out in the "park." We did eventually see one sleeping in a well-secluded spot (good for him).
One of the former concrete bear "pits" is now a small educational display for children.

We went into the Altes Tramdepot for a Weizen beer under the terrace awning while it continued to drizzle (5 chf and quite tasty!)

mokka4

We wandered down to the oldest part of town, "Matten", along the river, where the old city bathhouses once were, then back up along the concrete steps by the ? old city base fortifications (great squat round towers).

Back in town, we perused Migros for their large selection of takeaway meals to take home for dinner. Nice, fresh salad bowls + separate dressings = 8.50 chf. I also bought a box of Glueckszucker, as the apartment had no sugar for tea. I wasn't sure, but the box looked like it was pearl sugar....thank goodness, it turned out to be regular cubed sugar, but in the shape of hearts, diamonds, spades and clubs! Later used in the apt for chai tea latte....hmmmm!

The 17:04 was crowded with business people returning home, but we finally found 2 seats together. A very good-looking train ticket man spoke lovely English and advised us about the upcoming views of Lake Geneva (which we had grown used to from our personal balcony)!
We asked about the numerous fields of bright yellow flowers that we saw in the area? He was at a loss for the English translation, but said they were grown for their prized oil, often used by the French. We later Google-searched to find out they were a type of rapeseed plants!
For dinner we had our delicious and hearty salads with gruyere baked thin crackers and Rivella Rot on the balcony.
TV was playing a Sandra Bullock/Melissa McCarthy movie in German...fun to watch! Later, Hunger Games...
Plan Lutry tomorrow..

Adelaidean

Sounds blissfully relaxing.

I have on my 'list' - the short walk from Grandvaux to Lutry, to see sweet villages, vineyards, views, your thoughts?