annhig

hi again, tj,

i suspect that you would NOT have liked the salad I had in the pyrenees, which featured chicken gizzards.

chacun...

looking forward to more of your report, - it's nice to have a "warts and all" view-

regards, ann

dgassa

bookmarking

traveljunkie28

The anticapation of arriving at our Tuscan Villa was getting to me. I could not wait. We booked a five day stay at the I Barronci, just outside of San Casciano. Anyone looking for a wonderful villa to stay at, please look into this one. You will not regret it. Piero (owner for 40 years) is so sweet and helpful. Full of stories and helpful information of the area. Wasa (immigrated from Sri Lanka with his family) was such an amazing cook. (more on the meals later). Teneal our waitress (American girl who fell in love with an Italian and stayed) was so friendly, and I can still hear her laugh. I miss them all greatly.

As we drove up to I Barronci, surrounded by Olive orchards and cypress trees, I could not wait to get out and take a look at our new home for the next 5 glorious days. It does not disappoint. We booked two joining rooms. They are descent in size. very clean and overlook amazing views.

Our first afternoon we went for a walk. Through the olive orchards and vineyards. Snapping pics of the charming old villas. Being a designer (husband a builder) that specialize in Italian and French homes back in Canada, we couldn't get enough pics of all the details. I love the detail that was put into architecture even thousands of years a go. Don't see that anymore. Beautiful iron gates and fences.

After our walk we decided to drive the short 5 minutes into San Casciano to see what it has to offer. It is a beautiful walking town. It has a childrens park with merry go round on top of a hill with breath taking views for the adults to enjoy while the kids play. Lots of shops to keep the ladies happy with shopping. VERY friendly people at this town. So helpful and really understanding of the language barrier.

Our second day we set out for Pisa and Viareggio. The drive was about an hour to Pisa from the villa. Not too much to see along the way. Mostly driving through the industrial area of the cities. We did see an old water duct system that must have been over a thousand years old.

Pisa. Parking was easy to find. Walked over to the Piazza deI Miracoli. Bought our tickets for the tower and the il Duomo. The Duomo is breath taking. I think we stayed for about an hour. A short service was in session. The sounds of the choir singing and chanting(not sure what is called) was eerie but beautiful. The acoustics are amazing. Relief panels depicting biblical scenes, the famous Lamp of Galileo and the marble urn containing the remains of St. Ranieri Scacceri, patron saint of Pisa are some of the few of so many wonderful memories I have of the Duomo. It was so much to take in. Of course my 12 year old thought the remains of the Saint was quite fascinatining.

It always fascinates me that something that was a mistake(probably one of teh best mistakes ever to be made ;-) ) attracts so many visitors and has brought so many tourism dollars to a city that probably would not be high on the tourists radar. The tower is simple beautiful. We got some really good pictures with no tourists in the background. We waited our turn to go up. Quick tip. You must put your bags(purses too) in a locker before going up. We saw many people in line being turned away and told to go put their bags away first. I'm afraid of heights so I'm not really looking forward to this. I even joked that I don't need to go up but my family would have been disappointed. As I would have with myself as well. The stairs are solid marble. They are worn from the many visitors going up. It does throw your equalibrium off going up and being on a slant as well.(for me) I made it to the bells. The views are, of course, really good from this point. I did not make it to the very top. I do not regret this as I made it to the bells and that's pretty good for me. We enjoyed Pisa. It wasn't crowded, the weather was good. We did some shopping at all the hundreds(seemed like hundreds) of kiosks selling various knick knacks.

We left Pisa for the town of Viareggio on the Liguriun Sea. This town sort of reminded me of Venice, California and probably would even more in summer. Palm tree lined walkways with shops and restaurants for miles. We walked along the beach with the other families out for a sunday walk. It was a nice break from the hectic loud cities we have been touring. We spent the afternoon just sitting on the beach relaxing in the warm sunshine.

By the time we got to the villa we were hungry. It was a set menu that night. Both my boys looked worried but the chef was very accomadating, as my one son is a vegetarian. It was one of the best meals I've ever had. Four appertifs with the duck liver pate being my favourite. Ended up eating my husbands as well. First course was conchiglie(con-KEEL-yay) pasta shells with an amazing meat sauce. Second course was lamb served with suateed vegetables. Not really sure how I ate all that but I did it!! Mmmmm, I miss Italian food. I skipped dessert. Had a shot of grappa though. First and last time. I did sneak a bottle home though. Canada doesn't allow it.

Next report will be on our day in Florence and a trip our first winery.

wren

TJ, I am enjoying your report---we will be in Venice, Florence, and the Tuscan countryside in 8 weeks. We always use a GPS too---it gives us the most direct route and redirects us should we miss a turn...my attitude is "Dont' leave home w/o it!"

I was just in Italy a week ago and discover the AutoGrills---my impression was really nice stops with lots of fresh food.

cybertraveler

bookmarking

traveljunkie28

Wren,

I wish Canada had Autogrills along the highways. What a great concept, isn't it? Everything you need from A-Z at a gas stop.

"Daniel "our nav system was invaluable on this trip. I use it on shopping trips when I go into Vancouver. I never worry about finding an address!

bigtyke

Thanks for your report - warts and all.

Your salad reminds me of a trip almost 40 years ago when my father just had to have a milkshake and tried describing it to a waiter (I can't remember which country it was in). All I can be sure of is that it did have milk in it.

The 'hamburger' I had in Spain later in the trip was also a mystery (this was way before McDonalds invaded)

A more recent mishap was in 1999 when my wife ordered egg rolls at a restaurant in London. The result was a very poor imitation of a McMuffin!

irishface

Traveljunkie, thanks for getting on with your report. It is so full of interesting details. I especially enjoyed your description of the climb up the Leaning Tower. I don't think anyone has actually described the ascent in any of the reports I have read (but then I have only been on this forum for a couple of years). It was a big disappointment that I didn't get to go up. The day I was there we arrived early and booked our ticket for 2 p.m. While investigating other parts of the area, I twisted my ankle on a cobblestone and was in considerable discomfort so did not dare make the attempt. Luckily I was able to resell my ticket, as it was a price I was not swallowing easily.

bigtyke

Going up the leaning tower is a blast. When I went, the tour guide said the record ascent time was x minutes. I took it as a challenge and ran up, beating the time, thus proving that the tour guide was full of bull!

On one side of the tower, you feel like you are leaning way out while on the other you are hugging the tower, but of course in both cases, you are vertical and it is the tower that is changing.

denise8101214

Thank you for such an enjoyable, fun to read trip report!

traveljunkie28

Thank you for the comments. I'm glad you enjoy!

We woke up early to get a head start in Florence before it got too busy. Piero, our villa owner, told us the best route in and to park at the Piazzale Michelangiolo. This was a great tip. parking was a breeze and the walk over to Ponte Vecchio along the river was nice. Ponte Vecchio (old bridge) is the most famous bridge across the Arno. Shops line the bridge and have since the 12th century. The bridge used to house meat cutter shops but the stench(I could imagine) was too much. The meat cutters were tossed out and gold and silver has been sold since the 16th century. (if I remember correctly)

The gelato shops in Florence are a feast for the eyes. With mounds of gelato piled about 2 feet high! How could anyone walk by and not get a cone? Pistacchio has to be the best. (my opinion);-) So many shops, so little time. There's a lovely candy store where I picked some really cute purple flower shaped candies, packaged so nicely for my niece.

Okay enough about the sweets. We headed to the Duomo which of course had a huge line up. Hate to report we didn't go inside. No regrets though. It was hot out and crowded. I should have been more prepared with tickets. We walked around the old city for about 3 hours. Not really feeling it. I know we're in Florence but we just didn't enjoy it. So, we decide to go check out a winery or two instead.

The first winery was Castello di Gabbiano. We did some wine tastings. Enjoyed the Chianti Classico, Chianti Classico Reserve was our favorite. We bought 16 bottles to be shipped back home. Got a phone call from Fed ex that they hit the border so should be getting them soon. We tried to get a bottle of Grappa shipped but Canada wouldn't let it in. I did get a bottle though. Snuck it in my suitcase.Shhh....

The second winery was close to our villa.
San Michele A torri. This was our favourite. Situated in the hills of Val di Pesa. This is an organic winery. I actually found out that most of the wineries in Italy are organic. I love that! They also grow olive trees and they olive oil is soooo good. I treat my bottle like gold. The history of this winery was fascinating. With the cellar once being a safe haven for Italians in WW2 for about a month. The winery is originally from the year 600. We bought two bottles of the 1999 Murtas and one bottle of the Chianti. We didn't even have to pay for our tour and wine and cheese tastings. My 12 year old got a laugh when a local came in with her big jug and filled it like gassing up a car. Only 3 Euros for that much wine. Must be nice!! I really enjoyed this winery. If you are in this region check this one out!

Back at the villa we couldn't wait for dinner as Wasa never disappoints. I had the rabbit. Yes, rabbit. My dad used to make rabbit when I was little. I can not describe the flavours as I have never had anything this good. It was cooked in a reduction sauce(can't remember what) but the meat just melted in your mouth. I didn't want the meal to end. I've offer Wasa and his family to come stay with us if he ever comes my way. I might get that meal one more time in my life...lol.

Next report. Our day in San Gimignano and Siena.

starrs

Looking forward to the rest!

bettyloo

bookmarking

LCBoniti

I just found this report and I hope you will continue it.

I wanted to say that very dear friends who have traveled all over the world have said that (in their opinion) the most beautiful and dramatic scenery they had ever seen was Western Canada.

traveljunkie28

With the advice from our Villa owner we decided to make a day trip to the town of San Gimignano. We are glad we did. About an hour and half from Florence through the Tuscan Hills.

In it's day the town had as many as 72 towers, each owned by a different and very paranoid family. Each family built a tower to "keep watch" on their neighbours. My husband likes to joke that no wonder I'm so suspicious as it's genetically encoded...lol.Today only about 11 towers remain. We loved strolling along the walled city paths and small streets.

In the town center is the piazza della Cisterna. In the square is believed to be the tallest tower, Grossa. At 178 ft. high. If you enter the Civic Museum you can get information on climbing this tower. We didn't have time so we passed on this.

Having two boys travelling with us, they thought it would be fun to see the Torture Museum. This had to be the creepiest place I've entered. Horrific torture techniques are on display, along with graphic descriptions. Too much for all of us to take in. Lets just say we all agreed if lived in those times we would be the best citizens to avoid the brutality of punishment.

There is lots of shops as you enter into the town. Most carry pottery made by local artists. I picked up a beautiful wine decanter. Which thankfully made it home in one piece. They do ship but the prices were very steep.

The views from San Gimignano are breath taking. I have many photos for inspiration for my paintings taking from here. If you're in the area this is definitely worth a stop.

That same day we drove another half hour to the city of Siena. I found Siena situated amongst the most beautiful hills and could easily say this is one pretty city. In my opinion. Others in my party disagreed. Probably tainted by what is to come. finding a parking place was adventure in itself. As the skies started to darken we quickly made the walk into the center.

Our villa owner asked us when we returned if we witnessed any fighting amongst the locals. Asking why he replied that it's common for families(husbands and wives) to argue in the square. We didn't quite understand why but found it to be an interesting comment.

Piazza del Campo is shaped like an open fan. We stopped to take pictures of the Fonte Gaia or Fountain of Joy. By this time it had started to rain and the temperature started to drop. My boys had enough and wanted to get back to the villa. I was disappointed as this city has so much to see and offer but my boys health is more important. We still have to fly to Paris!! We'll return one day and see more than the center.

Next report is our flight from Pisa to Paris on RyanAir. My 18 year olds "One night in Paris" experience, conquering my fear of heights on the Eiffel Tower and so much more.

LCBoniti: I agree with your friends...lol. No bias here but after travelling to various countries, I must say we are blessed with breath taking scenery in Western Canada. Although our weather could be warmer

maremare66

Yes, Switzerland was the place we least liked on our Europe tour and I just wouldn't care to make my way there again. Typical Swiss they are into the money in a big way and yes, we got ripped off using a bank service in Lucerne, but that is another story. Quite frankly we did not purchase anything other than food before leaving early the next day.