Miners, Christmas, Dresden
Dec 6th, 2011, 10:52 AM
#23
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OK, let me give it a shot on Freiberg.
I took a 1 day (Saturday) side trip from Dresden to Freiberg this last weekend. I'd been in Dresden for the week on business, returning to the US early Sunday out of DRS airport.
Getting there.
I had 3 options.
1. Train
2. Car through the countryside
3. Car by Autobahn
I chose #3, since I already had a car, and needed to get to the airport early on Sunday. At peak speed of 160 km per hr it's an amazingly short trip. Total drive time from my hotel in Dresden (NH Dresden on Fri night) it took no more than 1hr door to door.
Hotel
My side trip to Freiberg was a last minute choice, so I had to make the call - stay in Freiberg or return to Dresden Saturday night. Desiring the flexibility to consume copious quantities of Gluhwein, Feuerzangenbowle, Gluhbier, hot brandy, or other adult beverages I decided to try to find a hotel in Freiberg. I called or emailed over a dozen different places - hotels, pension, private rooms. The only place that had an opening was the Hotel Alekto, by the train station. Location is about 1km from the town center.
The hotel was very cheap. Room rate of 59 euros (single), including full buffet breakfast. Wireless internet was a 2 euro per day add on. My room was a top floor single. Small room, slanted ceiling. Perfectly comfortable. The room faced the train tracks, which one online review had recommended against. I don't recall hearing a single train, but sleep and I are very good friends so I'm generally immune to noises.
I checked in around noon, thankful that the room was ready. It had started to drizzle, so I decided to drive rather than walk into town. There is a parking garage close to the town for 60c/hr. If you have a car,then this hotel is just fine. If you don't then this hotel is a bit too far away from the town to be convenient.
In retrospect I think I would have just done a day trip from Dresden but this worked out fine. I don't think Freiberg by itself is worth staying in the town. It's also not close enough to any of the true mountain activities.
Food
I basically only ate street food - no restaurant or cafe. Since everything I ate was fat free/low calorie I have no guilt.
OK,annhig asked what I ate, so this part may get long. On the way into town from the Schloss/Museum, I passed a bakery with a big sign "Stollen Sterne (star shaped butter stollen pastries) 2 for 2.40 euro. I bought 2 with my name on them and had a lunch on the go. Calorie free stollen - that's not real butter or sugar.
Around the corner is the Christmas market.
- melted cheese & shaved ham - excellent!
- steak on a roll (ham steak, I think). Good. The same place had several different wurst, meats on a stick, etc.
- deer steak / wild meet grill - I did not eat
- chocolate covered strawberries on a stick - excellent! I didn't have any of the chocolate apples, grapes, or bananas
- 1/2 meter long bratwurst - I did not eat
- crepes - plain, sugar, Nutella!, banana, chocolate, and - - various other varieties. I did not eat, unfortunately. My one regret.
- roasted almonds - good, but too much sugar. Wished I'd had a variety pack with some macadamias, peanuts, etc.
- stollen. 5-6 different varieties. Butter, poppy (Mohn), Marzipan, raisin (traditional). I didn't see them offering samples, and I'd had my fill already in Dresden. I did bring back some stollen as gifts. Turns out the best place to buy them was actually at the DRS airport, after security. Nice 0.5 kilo loaf in a box for 7.50 euro.
Drink
- Feuerzangenbowle - hot sangria. One is too many, but you gotta have one.
- Raspberry Gluhwein - very good.
- Russian vodka shots - did not try
- Hot brandy - did not try in Freiberg
- Gluhbier (Freiberger) - did not try
My revelation is that once you've tried one gluhwein you've tried them all. The difference is only the fruit or spice added at point of sale. The vendors all have the same 20 liter plastic jugs of the stuff.
I'm sure I'm missing one or 2 of the food stalls. What I had in Dresden but wasn't available in Freiberg is the stuffed bread (Krauterbrot mit Kaese & Schinken).
Sites
- Schloss/Mineral Museum. Terra Mineralia. Excellent collection of mineral crystals from all over the world. If you're into crystallography or geology or mineralogy it's a cool museum. If not, then it's probably not worth a visit.
- Christmas Market - as described above, mostly about the food.
-Miner's parade - described above
- Bach Oratorio concert in the Dom (Cathedral). Wonderful concert. Small philharmonic orchestra, 50 person choir, kids choir, and 4 opera stars for the various parts. The whole oratorio is 6 parts - this concert was 1 to 3, and lasted about an hour and a half total. They gave out a program with the main verses of each of the songs, so it was easy to follow along. You have to have an ear for German to follow. Top notch world caliber performers.
One thing that surprised me was how casual the audience was dressed. A lot of the crowd, young and old, was in jeans and sweaters. I was expecting a more dressed up crowd. Perhaps that's a big city/small town difference.
I had a seat in the royal box/loge level. This was great, as I had a bird's eye view, I could stand up to see better (only 1 row deep in the loge), and lean against the window sill/railing, take photos without bothering anyone around me, or sit down and just listen.
Overall I'd say Freiberg is ok to visit if you have time to spare. I would NOT rate it as a must visit destination if it means you have to go out of your way. It's a sleepy little town that in the absence of the Christmas market would be a little too quiet for me.
I would also NOT characterize the Christmas market as worthy of a side trip just to see. Substantially similar to what you find in bigger cities.
I will return to the area in spring/summer/fall to get up into the mountains, but would likely just pass through or around the town of Freiberg.
I'm glad I visited, but were it not for the concert I'd have blown out of town after just a few hrs. I'm glad I didn't make a several hour trek to get there.
I took a 1 day (Saturday) side trip from Dresden to Freiberg this last weekend. I'd been in Dresden for the week on business, returning to the US early Sunday out of DRS airport.
Getting there.
I had 3 options.
1. Train
2. Car through the countryside
3. Car by Autobahn
I chose #3, since I already had a car, and needed to get to the airport early on Sunday. At peak speed of 160 km per hr it's an amazingly short trip. Total drive time from my hotel in Dresden (NH Dresden on Fri night) it took no more than 1hr door to door.
Hotel
My side trip to Freiberg was a last minute choice, so I had to make the call - stay in Freiberg or return to Dresden Saturday night. Desiring the flexibility to consume copious quantities of Gluhwein, Feuerzangenbowle, Gluhbier, hot brandy, or other adult beverages I decided to try to find a hotel in Freiberg. I called or emailed over a dozen different places - hotels, pension, private rooms. The only place that had an opening was the Hotel Alekto, by the train station. Location is about 1km from the town center.
The hotel was very cheap. Room rate of 59 euros (single), including full buffet breakfast. Wireless internet was a 2 euro per day add on. My room was a top floor single. Small room, slanted ceiling. Perfectly comfortable. The room faced the train tracks, which one online review had recommended against. I don't recall hearing a single train, but sleep and I are very good friends so I'm generally immune to noises.
I checked in around noon, thankful that the room was ready. It had started to drizzle, so I decided to drive rather than walk into town. There is a parking garage close to the town for 60c/hr. If you have a car,then this hotel is just fine. If you don't then this hotel is a bit too far away from the town to be convenient.
In retrospect I think I would have just done a day trip from Dresden but this worked out fine. I don't think Freiberg by itself is worth staying in the town. It's also not close enough to any of the true mountain activities.
Food
I basically only ate street food - no restaurant or cafe. Since everything I ate was fat free/low calorie I have no guilt.
OK,annhig asked what I ate, so this part may get long. On the way into town from the Schloss/Museum, I passed a bakery with a big sign "Stollen Sterne (star shaped butter stollen pastries) 2 for 2.40 euro. I bought 2 with my name on them and had a lunch on the go. Calorie free stollen - that's not real butter or sugar.
Around the corner is the Christmas market.
- melted cheese & shaved ham - excellent!
- steak on a roll (ham steak, I think). Good. The same place had several different wurst, meats on a stick, etc.
- deer steak / wild meet grill - I did not eat
- chocolate covered strawberries on a stick - excellent! I didn't have any of the chocolate apples, grapes, or bananas
- 1/2 meter long bratwurst - I did not eat
- crepes - plain, sugar, Nutella!, banana, chocolate, and - - various other varieties. I did not eat, unfortunately. My one regret.
- roasted almonds - good, but too much sugar. Wished I'd had a variety pack with some macadamias, peanuts, etc.
- stollen. 5-6 different varieties. Butter, poppy (Mohn), Marzipan, raisin (traditional). I didn't see them offering samples, and I'd had my fill already in Dresden. I did bring back some stollen as gifts. Turns out the best place to buy them was actually at the DRS airport, after security. Nice 0.5 kilo loaf in a box for 7.50 euro.
Drink
- Feuerzangenbowle - hot sangria. One is too many, but you gotta have one.
- Raspberry Gluhwein - very good.
- Russian vodka shots - did not try
- Hot brandy - did not try in Freiberg
- Gluhbier (Freiberger) - did not try
My revelation is that once you've tried one gluhwein you've tried them all. The difference is only the fruit or spice added at point of sale. The vendors all have the same 20 liter plastic jugs of the stuff.
I'm sure I'm missing one or 2 of the food stalls. What I had in Dresden but wasn't available in Freiberg is the stuffed bread (Krauterbrot mit Kaese & Schinken).
Sites
- Schloss/Mineral Museum. Terra Mineralia. Excellent collection of mineral crystals from all over the world. If you're into crystallography or geology or mineralogy it's a cool museum. If not, then it's probably not worth a visit.
- Christmas Market - as described above, mostly about the food.
-Miner's parade - described above
- Bach Oratorio concert in the Dom (Cathedral). Wonderful concert. Small philharmonic orchestra, 50 person choir, kids choir, and 4 opera stars for the various parts. The whole oratorio is 6 parts - this concert was 1 to 3, and lasted about an hour and a half total. They gave out a program with the main verses of each of the songs, so it was easy to follow along. You have to have an ear for German to follow. Top notch world caliber performers.
One thing that surprised me was how casual the audience was dressed. A lot of the crowd, young and old, was in jeans and sweaters. I was expecting a more dressed up crowd. Perhaps that's a big city/small town difference.
I had a seat in the royal box/loge level. This was great, as I had a bird's eye view, I could stand up to see better (only 1 row deep in the loge), and lean against the window sill/railing, take photos without bothering anyone around me, or sit down and just listen.
Overall I'd say Freiberg is ok to visit if you have time to spare. I would NOT rate it as a must visit destination if it means you have to go out of your way. It's a sleepy little town that in the absence of the Christmas market would be a little too quiet for me.
I would also NOT characterize the Christmas market as worthy of a side trip just to see. Substantially similar to what you find in bigger cities.
I will return to the area in spring/summer/fall to get up into the mountains, but would likely just pass through or around the town of Freiberg.
I'm glad I visited, but were it not for the concert I'd have blown out of town after just a few hrs. I'm glad I didn't make a several hour trek to get there.
Dec 6th, 2011, 11:10 AM
#24
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>One thing that surprised me was how casual the audience was dressed. A lot of the crowd, young and old, was in jeans and sweaters. I was expecting a more dressed up crowd. Perhaps that's a big city/small town difference.
People don't dress up for church concerts. The reason is very simple: churches, especially medieval churches like the cathedral, are always cold. You probably didn't notice the cold that much up in the box but those on the stone ground floor did for sure.
People don't dress up for church concerts. The reason is very simple: churches, especially medieval churches like the cathedral, are always cold. You probably didn't notice the cold that much up in the box but those on the stone ground floor did for sure.
Dec 6th, 2011, 01:49 PM
#25
People don't dress up for church concerts. The reason is very simple: churches, especially medieval churches like the cathedral, are always cold. You probably didn't notice the cold that much up in the box but those on the stone ground floor did for sure.>>
absolutely right, quokka. unfortunately the performers DO have to dress up and i can tell you that it gets pretty chilly in a stone church in December.
Thanks, J62, admirable detail, even about the food and drink! you are definitely whetting my appetite to try to see some of these miners' parades an Christmas markets.
absolutely right, quokka. unfortunately the performers DO have to dress up and i can tell you that it gets pretty chilly in a stone church in December.
Thanks, J62, admirable detail, even about the food and drink! you are definitely whetting my appetite to try to see some of these miners' parades an Christmas markets.
Dec 6th, 2011, 02:20 PM
#27
We were in Dresden when the celebrations for 20 years of German unity were going on - there was a massive market down the centre of the Neustadt, and not a "diet food" stall in sight! i put on weight just walking past all the wurst, roast meat and pretzel stalls.
Germany is death to a dieter, IMO.
Germany is death to a dieter, IMO.
Dec 6th, 2011, 02:36 PM
#28
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>absolutely right, quokka. unfortunately the performers DO have to dress up and i can tell you that it gets pretty chilly in a stone church in December.
Ann, we choir ladies all know those tricks, don't we - wearing jeans or jogging pants under the long dresses, for example ;-) And aren't we glad that the audience cannot see our shoes...
Back to the topic: I'd recommend any potential visitor to Freiberg to do a little reading about the town's history and cultural heritage in advance, for more appreciation and understanding of what you see.
Ann, we choir ladies all know those tricks, don't we - wearing jeans or jogging pants under the long dresses, for example ;-) And aren't we glad that the audience cannot see our shoes...
Back to the topic: I'd recommend any potential visitor to Freiberg to do a little reading about the town's history and cultural heritage in advance, for more appreciation and understanding of what you see.
Dec 6th, 2011, 02:50 PM
#29
Ann, we choir ladies all know those tricks, don't we - wearing jeans or jogging pants under the long dresses, for example And aren't we glad that the audience cannot see our shoes...>>
quokka, you've set my thinking about what I can get away with on Saturday when the choir I'm in is giving a concert on a very remote cornish church which I am expecting not to be heated at all - time to dig out the thermals I think.
as you say, Freiberg would well repay a bit of prior research - a bit like most places, really!
quokka, you've set my thinking about what I can get away with on Saturday when the choir I'm in is giving a concert on a very remote cornish church which I am expecting not to be heated at all - time to dig out the thermals I think.
as you say, Freiberg would well repay a bit of prior research - a bit like most places, really!
Dec 6th, 2011, 11:35 PM
#30
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Thanks J62 for posting the report. The Christmas Oratorio sounds like it was an outstanding experience. Hope you could have a closer look at the art pieces in the church (but probably no chance). The description of the food alone makes me want to hit the Christmas markets in town tonight again 
I certainly wouldn't cross an ocean to see Freiberg alone but on the other hand I wouldn't for mad King Ludwig's castles or Rothenburg ob der Tauber either. Freiberg is of course not a city and I agree it will most likely be quiet on all Advent weekend nights (which are really family time). But on weekdays it has a nice and lively though small pub scene, mostly entertaining the students and profs of the (small) university there.
I certainly wouldn't cross an ocean to see Freiberg alone but on the other hand I wouldn't for mad King Ludwig's castles or Rothenburg ob der Tauber either. Freiberg is of course not a city and I agree it will most likely be quiet on all Advent weekend nights (which are really family time). But on weekdays it has a nice and lively though small pub scene, mostly entertaining the students and profs of the (small) university there.
