Milan and Lake Como Info

Old Feb 6th, 2018, 10:38 AM
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Milan and Lake Como Info

Hi there,

I am planning a last minute quick trip to join my husband for a long weekend while he's on a business trip. I am flying into Milan February 15, with two nights at the Boscolo Milano, which is near the Duomo. I will be on my own Thursday and Friday, he will join me on Friday night. In light of that, I am planning to take the hop on hop off bus with the 24 hour ticket to get around and see the sights. I have briefly been to Milan years ago but only for a day really, and only wandered the streets and went to the Duomo. Any can't miss sights (is the Last Supper worth it?) I want to try to get up to the roof of the Duomo this time. I am not good with heights - are the walls high? I can't be towards an edge without stressing out, but I saw a picture that made it look like the sides were pretty high (over peoples heads). Any feedback on that?

Also, restaurant recommendations around the Duomo would be great.

Saturday we will take the train to Varenna for two nights. Do I have to book tickets in advance? I know I have to book round trip in Milan because there's no ticket office in Varenna. But since this is last minute and not peak season is advanced booking necessary or can we just buy tickets at the Kiosks at Milano Centrale?

We are staying at the Hotel Royal Victoria. It looks like their restaurant gets good reviews on trip advisor, so hopefully we'll eat there one night. As it's February, so I need to make restaurant reservations in Varenna and Bellagio? We will take the ferry to Bellagio one day and probably at least have lunch there.

Any other restaurant recommendations in Varenna or Bellagio would be great. Or can't miss sights. I know that it's not the greatest of the year for this trip, but at least no big crowds!

Thanks in advance.
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Old Feb 6th, 2018, 11:14 AM
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“The Last Supper” is a highlight of Milan and Italy. Perhaps since it’s winter, you can still get a ticket to see one of the world’s artistic treasures.
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Old Feb 6th, 2018, 11:25 AM
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We were in Milan for 5 nights at the end of November and loved it. We did not go up to the roof of the Duomo, nor did we see The Last Supper (you may have problems getting tickets at this late date). We rented an apartment, so did not spend time in restaurants except for the occasional lunch at a simple café. We did spend a fair amount of time in heated sidewalk cafés having drinks and snacks - they are all over the city and very commodious. We had a few simple but yummy breakfasts at Bar B, across from our apartment.

Highlights for us were the Museo della Scienza et della Tecnologia, Sant' Eustorgio, the Pinoteca di Brera (and the small Chinatown in that neighborhood), and the Navigli (at night). The best things of all, though, were Peck, the most amazing deli/specialty food store we've ever been in (walking distance from the Duomo), and all the beautiful artisan shops around our apartment on the via San Maurelio.

We then spent 3 nights in Stresa on Lago Maggiore, which we prefer over Como. The weather was frightful, many things had closed for the season, and there was limited ferry service.That was all fine with us, as we hadn't had high expectations, but you might be prepared for the same on Como. The average temp on Lake Como in February is 5C, but at least it's usually a dry month and it won't be crowded.
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Old Feb 6th, 2018, 11:27 AM
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You can buy your Milan-Varenna Esino tickets on the day of travel, but you should buy your return ticket at the same time as the station in Varenna is unmanned. It is possible to buy the return ticket in Varenna (travel agency if open and probably from another shop in town), but it's much easier to already have it in hand.

Both Varenna and Bellagio will be very quiet, with many restaurants and shops closed for the winter. You should definitely make dinner reservations for both nights as your options will be few. If Il Cavatappi is open one of your nights, try to go there. Lunch will be less of a problem, but the options fairly limited. You probably won't be able to have dinner in Bellagio as the last ferry back to Varenna will be a bit too early. In that regard, make sure you understand the ferry schedule so as not to get "stuck" in Bellagio for the night.

http://www.navigazionelaghi.it/c_dow...I2017_2018.pdf

IMO, if you can cancel the Varenna hotel reservation without penalty, I would watch the weather and only go to the lake if it sounds like it will be reasonably nice. It can be pretty cold during the day, close to freezing overnight, and there could be snow on the mountains above the town. Although a rarity, it can even snow in Varenna. As an alternative, consider Bergamo or Torino.

I'm surprised you ask if the Last Supper is "worth it." How many works of Leonardo da Vinci do you expect to see in your life?

From your description, I think you should skip the roof of the Duomo. I definitely wouldn't go to the roof if there is any rain or wind.
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Old Feb 6th, 2018, 01:29 PM
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There are ticket machines in the Varenna-Esino station (they are in the waiting room) assuming they are working or just buy a R/T in Milan
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Old Feb 6th, 2018, 02:58 PM
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No reason not to buy round trip (return) tickets to/from Varenna while in Milan. But in addition to ticket machines at the station in Varenna, there is also a cafe attached to the train station and they sell tickets. But I agree that if it's raining I wouldn't want to go to the lake. For me anyway, sunny and cold would be fine, but rain would make it totally worthless. I was there in March last year and it was cool but lovely. But a lot of stuff was closed so it's not like you can go shopping or anything. I agree that Bergamo or Torino would be much better. In any event, at that time of year I'd probably do it as a day trip from Milan rather than spending the night. If you keep your Milan hotel for the whole four nights you can choose the best day (I guess of Sat, and Sun since you'll want to go with your husband) to go to the lake and can spend the other day doing something else. As others said, choices of restaurants will be slim at that time of year. Even in March a lot was closed.

Besides Bergamo and Torino, Pavia makes an excellent day trip. All of them, plus Varenna are all just about an hour train ride from Milano.

The roof visit to the Duomo starts going along the side (by the arches/flying buttresses) and this part there is a wall about 4 feet high (I think it was about my shoulder height and I'm pretty short). So you wouldn't have problems there. Up on the very top is a large open area that is sloped. There are no edges anywhere close (e.g. no chance of falling off or anything). The front has a plexiglass wall.

I wouldn't bother with a hop on hop off bus for Milan. Just get a good guidebook map and walk to the sites that interest you. The castle is not bad for a city center castle, short walk from the Duomo, and you can walk around the courtyards for free.

Photos - Zenfolio | Isabel's_View | Milano
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Old Feb 6th, 2018, 05:13 PM
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We had to do a bus tour to get Last Supper tickets (apparently they had bought them up). The tour itself was not good but the Last Supper is SO worth it.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 02:03 AM
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I wouldn't do the HOHO bus, either, unless the weather is really bad. We got all around the city just fine on foot, and I had a gimpy leg at the time.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 06:05 AM
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I have seen the Last Supper on three separate occasions (always 2 of us) turning up early and asking what availability there was that day. Always there was an opening so depending upon the times I structured my visit around Milan based upon when I could see the LS. What I do recommend when you see the Last Supper is to spend some time viewing the mural at the other end. Both were painted at roughly the same time but used radically different techniques - wet or dry plaster. As is well known Leonardo was not a fast worker and could not paint on wet plaster unlike the other end of the convent and unlike, of course, Michelangelo painting the Sistine Chapel.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 08:51 AM
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DH and I also got last-minute tickets for "Last Supper" in March--can you purchase them online?

When we took train from Milan to Varenna-Esino, we had to change in the town of Como. Still true? Also, I agree that you should get your return tickets at the same time. You need a chip credit card for the ticket machine at the unmanned Varenna-Esino station, and the Travel shop (just down the hill on the right from the station) had typical Italian and holiday hours so don't count on it being open.

***Some hotels close for the winter on Lake Como--if you email one and don't get a reply, it may be because it's closed.*** Have you considered the town of Como?

If you like opera, La Scala has a very interesting museum/tour. You might be able to score same-day opera tickets?

Have a great time.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 09:01 AM
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Milan-Varenna-Esino trains do not travel via Como and have not I think ever. Milan-Varenna is direct from Milan Centrale.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 09:02 AM
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" When we took train from Milan to Varenna-Esino, we had to change in the town of Como. Still true? "

Most probably not, as the Milan - Varenna (-Tirano) railway line never passed through Como, but through Lecco, some 20 miles away from Como.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 09:27 AM
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Thanks for the correction, neckervd. I checked my notes and was indeed wrong about where we changed! We were traveling from Bologna to Milan to Varenna. Sorry, sealstep for any confusion.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 11:36 AM
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Milan and Lake Como Info

Thanks for all the feedback. I am going to stick to Lake Como, we just want some relaxation at this point. I will see if I can get dinner reservations in Varenna at least. When I looked at some of the restaurant websites a lot mentioned being closed in January, but not February so I'm hopeful. I know weather may be an issue and it will be very quiet, but I'm okay with that. My husband would rather get out of Milan since he's there a lot on business right now. I am crossing my fingers for no rain.

I am not sure I can get tickets to see the Last Supper since it's so last minute, but I'll take a look.

I appreciate the help!
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 11:49 AM
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If the weather is bad and you want an alternative to Milan I would recommend Turin. Good museums and good cafes.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 12:28 PM
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Varrenna-Esino station does not even has automatic ticket kiosks? Just wondering what folks originating in Varenna do for tickets - often I think if station has none conductor will sell on train? But do not forget to cancel your own ticket before boarding the train or it will not be considered to be valid and you could be penalized. At least this is my understanding of that line.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 02:40 PM
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Varenna-Esino station does have ticket kiosks (as of March 2017 anyway). There was also a tiny cafe attached to the station and they were selling tickets. Of course the cafe is not open 24 hours a day, and ticket kiosks break down so I would still buy a round trip ticket.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 02:58 PM
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Yes but what about folks originating train travel in Varenna? I wonder if anyone knows conductor will sell ticket in those cases. Has to be or many folks would have no tickets in case of breakdown of machine and caffe closing. Curious and may put angst to rest for such folks.
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 03:10 PM
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I would definitely look to go to the top of the Duomo-it isn't at all fear inducing. It was one of our favorite things about the Duomo-you can really appreciate its massiveness and how it was constructed from up there. We were there before Christmas a few years ago and the weather didn't deter us!! I second the Peck recommendation, and we also enjoyed the Brera neighborhood very much. We took a fantastic food tour this past summer in Milano as well. Every time we visit we find another little gem...mostly just from walking the city and ducking into cafes and shops. I can't imagine taking a bus? Enjoy the lake as well-I have only been in summer, but it is a lovely spot. Buon Viaggio!
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Old Feb 7th, 2018, 04:10 PM
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When I was there there was a travel agency near the station where you could buy train tickets. For a mark up, I believe.
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