May 2005 Trip Report
#1
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Joined: Jan 2003
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May 2005 Trip Report
Left May 1st, arrived May second. Returned May 20th.
The first week it was really rainy so we pretty much stuck close to hubby's mum's house (in Newbridge, Co Kildare). We did a day trip out to Trim and back, one down to Kilkenny and back, another to Carlow where we visited Moone High Cross on the way, saw the Browne's Hill Dolman (that huge rock) and then drove back by going through Wicklow. Our last daytrip that week was out to visit friends who used to live here in town but moved back to Ireland, got married and now live in Bray. That day, we managed to get out to Powercourt House and Gardens even though the day started out really rainy with downpours and mad looking clouds. It ended beautiful though! We also did some visiting to friends and neighbors around the town and went over to have dinner with hubby's uncle who had recently lost his wife (the one year we didn't go back... figures.)
The next Monday we headed out for a week of traveling. We stopped in Cahir to see my favorite castle, took some time to finally see the Swiss Cottage and then bee-lined it all the way out to the very end of Co Kerry on Valentia Island. We treated ourselves to a Guesthouse in Knightowns called Glanleam. It was pricey but we got a free upgrade which made it a bit more worth our money. The house was grand enough but the gardens were amazing and we got great weather while there. The next day we headed out to the Skellig Islands. Hubby was not thrilled about going but the weather was good and I figured we came all that way so... And it was SO worth it in the end. The climb was steep and hubby was so afraid I'd be blown over the side but once we got to the top it was incredible! We got to stay for a total of 2.5 hours and then on the boat ride back they went all the way around the Little Skellig which has nothing but nesting gannets on it - 30,000 pairs to be exact. We also visited the Skellig Experience once we got back from the boat trip since we had managed to get out there early enough.
We then drove up to the far side of Dingle to stay at The Shores B&B. I've been trying to stay here for several years and I finally made it! We actually stayed 2 nights and got the Queen Room (as I like to call it because it has the queen sized bed and two balconies) and we loved it there. Our best stay for the money and I know I'll be coming back. Glanleam was nice but this was more like a home... Anyway, since we got in a bit late all we did that evening was go out to dinner and then walk along the beach. The next day though we drove over the Conor Pass and down into Dingle. Then around the peninsula stopping as we liked. I especially enjoyed The Blasket Visitor's Center though we didn't do that boat trip after just doing the Skellig Island one. Plus it was kinda rainy off and on that day so thought to come back and do it some other time. I had printed out Rick Steve's Dingle agenda which someone had kindly emailed me so I didn't have to buy his book. (I love watching his show but some of his info about Ireland is not exactly right and some just wrong though his Dingle “Sights to See” is perfect!) It really helped me find all the little places I was looking for including an ogham stone that I don't think I would have found without the exact distances and such. We actually drove all the way back to the B&B but then decided to go out to eat and headed back into Dingle town. Ate at a nice restaurant but it was pricey - well, eating out like that usually is but this trip it was really hitting home just how pricey stuff had gotten. That was our last big dinner out and we reversed our eating habits from then on having something more substantial during the day and then eating light at night. It supposed to be healthier anyway and I've actually been trying to continue doing that since we got back!
The next day we headed out of Dingle and up to Co Clare. We took the ferry across and then drove along the coast for a bit before heading into Ennis. I had only been through Ennis but never really stopped for a look around. Had lunch at Brogan’s Pub which was very good but surprising. (I had ordered off their Lunch Specials and gotten a cheeseburger. Simple, right? When it came it was a burger with cheese on it and veggies and chips/fries, of course, on the side but that's it. No bun! It cracked me up!) Then we walked around the town a bit. We had parked where we thought there was no disc needed but I realized as we headed back towards the car that we totally were in disc parking area and had not bought a disc AND had stayed there over the two hour limit. We were lucky to not have gotten a ticket or had our tire clamped when we made it back so we hopped in the car headed out, thanking our lucky stars! Up through The Burren to Ballyvaughen. We had no reservations so ended up in a decent though pricey B&B there. It was a good size room but the whole B&B was older and I had gotten used to The Shores quite quickly. Spent the evening in Ballyvaughen just wandering about as well as driving around. A game of cards back at the B&B then bed.
Up to Galway the next day as we needed to turn in our rental car and get another. (Mastercard only let us have the insurance on cars rented for 15 days or less so you have to go back in at another rental car place to switch even though we actually kept our same car...) The rental desk was closed when we got there (before 10am!) and we discovered they had left for Sligo to drive down some cars from that airport for the upcoming weekend. So we had to come back later and that put a big crimp in my plans for seeing Galway that day. I had planned on doing shopping in the morning, having lunch in Galway then taking off through Connemara in the afternoon and finding a B&B and staying over night. Hubby and I instead had to spend a couple of hours messing about then come back and then recheck out the car and then do what we wanted. Hubby really wanted to go to Oughterard to see the castle there and we knew better than to try to fight traffic in Galway city at that time of day so off we went. We ended spending a bit longer than I had thought we would in Oughterard and the castle. When we came back, hubby and the guy at the car rental desk ended up yakking for nearly an hour while doing paperwork and whatnot. And THEN traffic into Galway was even worse than we had expected due to Eyre Square being all torn up. So we only got to shop for maybe 2 hours before the stores all closed at 6pm, what with getting in, parking and eating (since we were starving by then) before shopping. Still, I always enjoy Galway.
Done shopping, we headed out of town towards Clifden calling a B&B out of my Frommer's book on the way. Ended up out the Sky Road in an older B&B that was actually quite full but it had amazing cliff views nearby and the price was unbeatable - 25E pps. We were running out of time (had to be back in Newbridge before Sunday) so headed out the next day straight for the Ceide Fields. Last time we had been there it was raining so hard that all we could visit was the center; the tour had been cancelled. I really wanted to do that tour so we drove nearly 4 hours all the way up through Connemara, past Westport and up to the tip of Mayo. Did the centre and the tour and then headed back towards the house and home. It was a long day and week but I seriously could have done it all again.
The third week was a mix of rain, sun and even some hail. We again did nearby stuff including a trip into Dublin for shopping and meeting up with friends there. One thing we did which I really enjoyed while in Dublin was to visit The Dail (say "doll"
. We have a friend there who is a journalist and she was able to give us an informal tour of the place. It would be like going to Washington DC and getting to visit the Congress. We sat in on the TDs (their version of Congressmen) doing their policy thing and had a cup of tea in the pub where all the TDs came to have a light lunch or a cuppa. We also ate at the cafeteria where many TDs had their lunch. And let me tell you, they get a good deal on food for the quality and price! We did our shopping there and in a couple nearby towns. Also spent another day with hubby's extended family and got to see the outside Malahide Castle that day. And then on one of our very last days we drove into Athlone and over to Clonmacnoise, which I really enjoyed.
Overall we had 15 rolls of film (12 color and 3 black and white), put 2500 miles on the rental car and stayed for 19 days in total. It was a fun trip and it took me quite a while to readjust once we got back. It was too hot here and I was so hungry at the oddest times. It was, however, one of the first times that I was glad that I lived here and not there. Oh I still want to retire to Ireland but hubby and I can have (and do have!) so much more here than we ever could there. I guess in the past things had been cheaper and we had less since we were just starting out together in life so it would have been easier for us to start over. Now, what with our house and cars and jobs and so on... well, they still have castles which we are sorely lacking but I'm happy to go for a visit these days and dream about living there when I'm older. At least for now...
Here's some pictures - I hope this link works!
http://www.kodakgallery.com/BrowsePh...p;sort_order=0
I need to look up some names for the various B&Bs we stayed at and I'll add them here once I do. I'm happy to answer any questions so don't hesitate to email me directly if you'd like.
Cheers,
Wendy
[email protected]
PS Bill, thanks so much for suggesting The Shores B&B. We had a lovely time with Annette and Pat and the family. Sitting around the kitchen table talking like we were one of the family - good times. She sure likes you and Fe as well! We will be gong back, often.
The first week it was really rainy so we pretty much stuck close to hubby's mum's house (in Newbridge, Co Kildare). We did a day trip out to Trim and back, one down to Kilkenny and back, another to Carlow where we visited Moone High Cross on the way, saw the Browne's Hill Dolman (that huge rock) and then drove back by going through Wicklow. Our last daytrip that week was out to visit friends who used to live here in town but moved back to Ireland, got married and now live in Bray. That day, we managed to get out to Powercourt House and Gardens even though the day started out really rainy with downpours and mad looking clouds. It ended beautiful though! We also did some visiting to friends and neighbors around the town and went over to have dinner with hubby's uncle who had recently lost his wife (the one year we didn't go back... figures.)
The next Monday we headed out for a week of traveling. We stopped in Cahir to see my favorite castle, took some time to finally see the Swiss Cottage and then bee-lined it all the way out to the very end of Co Kerry on Valentia Island. We treated ourselves to a Guesthouse in Knightowns called Glanleam. It was pricey but we got a free upgrade which made it a bit more worth our money. The house was grand enough but the gardens were amazing and we got great weather while there. The next day we headed out to the Skellig Islands. Hubby was not thrilled about going but the weather was good and I figured we came all that way so... And it was SO worth it in the end. The climb was steep and hubby was so afraid I'd be blown over the side but once we got to the top it was incredible! We got to stay for a total of 2.5 hours and then on the boat ride back they went all the way around the Little Skellig which has nothing but nesting gannets on it - 30,000 pairs to be exact. We also visited the Skellig Experience once we got back from the boat trip since we had managed to get out there early enough.
We then drove up to the far side of Dingle to stay at The Shores B&B. I've been trying to stay here for several years and I finally made it! We actually stayed 2 nights and got the Queen Room (as I like to call it because it has the queen sized bed and two balconies) and we loved it there. Our best stay for the money and I know I'll be coming back. Glanleam was nice but this was more like a home... Anyway, since we got in a bit late all we did that evening was go out to dinner and then walk along the beach. The next day though we drove over the Conor Pass and down into Dingle. Then around the peninsula stopping as we liked. I especially enjoyed The Blasket Visitor's Center though we didn't do that boat trip after just doing the Skellig Island one. Plus it was kinda rainy off and on that day so thought to come back and do it some other time. I had printed out Rick Steve's Dingle agenda which someone had kindly emailed me so I didn't have to buy his book. (I love watching his show but some of his info about Ireland is not exactly right and some just wrong though his Dingle “Sights to See” is perfect!) It really helped me find all the little places I was looking for including an ogham stone that I don't think I would have found without the exact distances and such. We actually drove all the way back to the B&B but then decided to go out to eat and headed back into Dingle town. Ate at a nice restaurant but it was pricey - well, eating out like that usually is but this trip it was really hitting home just how pricey stuff had gotten. That was our last big dinner out and we reversed our eating habits from then on having something more substantial during the day and then eating light at night. It supposed to be healthier anyway and I've actually been trying to continue doing that since we got back!
The next day we headed out of Dingle and up to Co Clare. We took the ferry across and then drove along the coast for a bit before heading into Ennis. I had only been through Ennis but never really stopped for a look around. Had lunch at Brogan’s Pub which was very good but surprising. (I had ordered off their Lunch Specials and gotten a cheeseburger. Simple, right? When it came it was a burger with cheese on it and veggies and chips/fries, of course, on the side but that's it. No bun! It cracked me up!) Then we walked around the town a bit. We had parked where we thought there was no disc needed but I realized as we headed back towards the car that we totally were in disc parking area and had not bought a disc AND had stayed there over the two hour limit. We were lucky to not have gotten a ticket or had our tire clamped when we made it back so we hopped in the car headed out, thanking our lucky stars! Up through The Burren to Ballyvaughen. We had no reservations so ended up in a decent though pricey B&B there. It was a good size room but the whole B&B was older and I had gotten used to The Shores quite quickly. Spent the evening in Ballyvaughen just wandering about as well as driving around. A game of cards back at the B&B then bed.
Up to Galway the next day as we needed to turn in our rental car and get another. (Mastercard only let us have the insurance on cars rented for 15 days or less so you have to go back in at another rental car place to switch even though we actually kept our same car...) The rental desk was closed when we got there (before 10am!) and we discovered they had left for Sligo to drive down some cars from that airport for the upcoming weekend. So we had to come back later and that put a big crimp in my plans for seeing Galway that day. I had planned on doing shopping in the morning, having lunch in Galway then taking off through Connemara in the afternoon and finding a B&B and staying over night. Hubby and I instead had to spend a couple of hours messing about then come back and then recheck out the car and then do what we wanted. Hubby really wanted to go to Oughterard to see the castle there and we knew better than to try to fight traffic in Galway city at that time of day so off we went. We ended spending a bit longer than I had thought we would in Oughterard and the castle. When we came back, hubby and the guy at the car rental desk ended up yakking for nearly an hour while doing paperwork and whatnot. And THEN traffic into Galway was even worse than we had expected due to Eyre Square being all torn up. So we only got to shop for maybe 2 hours before the stores all closed at 6pm, what with getting in, parking and eating (since we were starving by then) before shopping. Still, I always enjoy Galway.
Done shopping, we headed out of town towards Clifden calling a B&B out of my Frommer's book on the way. Ended up out the Sky Road in an older B&B that was actually quite full but it had amazing cliff views nearby and the price was unbeatable - 25E pps. We were running out of time (had to be back in Newbridge before Sunday) so headed out the next day straight for the Ceide Fields. Last time we had been there it was raining so hard that all we could visit was the center; the tour had been cancelled. I really wanted to do that tour so we drove nearly 4 hours all the way up through Connemara, past Westport and up to the tip of Mayo. Did the centre and the tour and then headed back towards the house and home. It was a long day and week but I seriously could have done it all again.
The third week was a mix of rain, sun and even some hail. We again did nearby stuff including a trip into Dublin for shopping and meeting up with friends there. One thing we did which I really enjoyed while in Dublin was to visit The Dail (say "doll"
. We have a friend there who is a journalist and she was able to give us an informal tour of the place. It would be like going to Washington DC and getting to visit the Congress. We sat in on the TDs (their version of Congressmen) doing their policy thing and had a cup of tea in the pub where all the TDs came to have a light lunch or a cuppa. We also ate at the cafeteria where many TDs had their lunch. And let me tell you, they get a good deal on food for the quality and price! We did our shopping there and in a couple nearby towns. Also spent another day with hubby's extended family and got to see the outside Malahide Castle that day. And then on one of our very last days we drove into Athlone and over to Clonmacnoise, which I really enjoyed. Overall we had 15 rolls of film (12 color and 3 black and white), put 2500 miles on the rental car and stayed for 19 days in total. It was a fun trip and it took me quite a while to readjust once we got back. It was too hot here and I was so hungry at the oddest times. It was, however, one of the first times that I was glad that I lived here and not there. Oh I still want to retire to Ireland but hubby and I can have (and do have!) so much more here than we ever could there. I guess in the past things had been cheaper and we had less since we were just starting out together in life so it would have been easier for us to start over. Now, what with our house and cars and jobs and so on... well, they still have castles which we are sorely lacking but I'm happy to go for a visit these days and dream about living there when I'm older. At least for now...
Here's some pictures - I hope this link works!
http://www.kodakgallery.com/BrowsePh...p;sort_order=0
I need to look up some names for the various B&Bs we stayed at and I'll add them here once I do. I'm happy to answer any questions so don't hesitate to email me directly if you'd like.
Cheers,
Wendy
[email protected]
PS Bill, thanks so much for suggesting The Shores B&B. We had a lovely time with Annette and Pat and the family. Sitting around the kitchen table talking like we were one of the family - good times. She sure likes you and Fe as well! We will be gong back, often.
#4
Joined: Jun 2004
Posts: 1,216
Likes: 0
Wendy,
Lovely photos! Thanks for sharing your trip. You're right, The Shores would spoil you. For the rest of the trip probably none of the other B&Bs could hold a candle to it. Too bad you didn't have dinner there. It is fantastic. I've slept in the queen room too! When I woke in the morning there was snow and rainbows on the mountains. Heavenly!!
Lovely photos! Thanks for sharing your trip. You're right, The Shores would spoil you. For the rest of the trip probably none of the other B&Bs could hold a candle to it. Too bad you didn't have dinner there. It is fantastic. I've slept in the queen room too! When I woke in the morning there was snow and rainbows on the mountains. Heavenly!!
#6
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 2,414
Likes: 0
Hi Wendy:
Great report. I'm glad you liked The Shores. Annette really makes you feel at home. I hope to see her again soon.
I learned something interesting this year about MC insurance. If you have a business card it covers you for 31 days. I have one from Advanta. It doesn't take much to say you have a "business" and a friend of mine got one and it did the same for him.
I've never done the trip to the Skelligs. That is now on my very short list. You've got to get good weather for it.
We were there from 13 May - 31 May. I still haven't even down loaded my digital pics yet. We just moved into a new house and that is consuming every minute of free time.
I have a few stories to tell about my trip. Hopefully I will get around to it soon.
Maybe sometime we will run into each other there.
Bill
Great report. I'm glad you liked The Shores. Annette really makes you feel at home. I hope to see her again soon.
I learned something interesting this year about MC insurance. If you have a business card it covers you for 31 days. I have one from Advanta. It doesn't take much to say you have a "business" and a friend of mine got one and it did the same for him.
I've never done the trip to the Skelligs. That is now on my very short list. You've got to get good weather for it.
We were there from 13 May - 31 May. I still haven't even down loaded my digital pics yet. We just moved into a new house and that is consuming every minute of free time.
I have a few stories to tell about my trip. Hopefully I will get around to it soon.
Maybe sometime we will run into each other there.
Bill
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#10
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Thanks, Elaine, I'm not sure how I managed to remove the "Ireland" part from my title but I did. Sheesh! You'd think I was a newbie on this site or something!
Bill - thanks to you we got the Queen room for two nights. so, for that and so many other reasons, you rock!
We just loved it there and do so wish we could have our own place right there on the sea but prices have gone out of control as Annette and Pat were helpful in explaining. I do hope we can meet up in Ireland sometime, too. It would be great fun, especially if we were all at The Shores (arm wrassle ya for the Queen room!).
And I hear you about the moving. It'll be 2 years this Setpmber since we bought our new house and moved but I still have boxes yet to unpack! Oy! So I do look forward to hearing all about your Northern trip but will be patient and will try not to bug you too much too soon! Ha! Planning on doing another travel blog and page with pictures?
I plan on adding more photos this weekend, mostly of black and whites we took so you guys be sure to check back next week! I'm so thrilled you all are enjoying them.
Wendy
Bill - thanks to you we got the Queen room for two nights. so, for that and so many other reasons, you rock!
We just loved it there and do so wish we could have our own place right there on the sea but prices have gone out of control as Annette and Pat were helpful in explaining. I do hope we can meet up in Ireland sometime, too. It would be great fun, especially if we were all at The Shores (arm wrassle ya for the Queen room!).
And I hear you about the moving. It'll be 2 years this Setpmber since we bought our new house and moved but I still have boxes yet to unpack! Oy! So I do look forward to hearing all about your Northern trip but will be patient and will try not to bug you too much too soon! Ha! Planning on doing another travel blog and page with pictures?
I plan on adding more photos this weekend, mostly of black and whites we took so you guys be sure to check back next week! I'm so thrilled you all are enjoying them.
Wendy
#13
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 45,322
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Hello waffle, although I have not had the pleasure of visiting Ireland I always enjoy the trip reports from travellers that have. And your trip report was so wonderful to read while I sipped on some wine and relaxed after a grueling week. Thank you for sharing. And this weekend I am looking forward to enjoying your photos (I love looking at trip photos). Take care.
#14
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 397
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Barbara,
You should be able just to copy and paste the link to see the photos but if that doesn't work email me directly and I'll add your address to my invite list.
I plan on adding more pictures this weekend!
Wendy
[email protected]
You should be able just to copy and paste the link to see the photos but if that doesn't work email me directly and I'll add your address to my invite list.
I plan on adding more pictures this weekend!
Wendy
[email protected]
#15
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 1,146
Likes: 0
Peregryn: I couldn't figure out how to get to the photos so I wrote down the letters( about 68 of them) then filled in the address at the top of my explorer page. It was well worth the trouble. I now have them among my favorites along with J.F. Give it a try.
Waffle, thanks for your report and photos. Look forward to more. Regards, Joan
Waffle, thanks for your report and photos. Look forward to more. Regards, Joan
#16
Original Poster
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 397
Likes: 0
Awww! Thanks you guys!
I have uploaded another 20 or so black and white pictures to the photo album. I tried to put them in order the way we took them on the trip, intermingled with the color shots but apparently, it don't work that way. So I tried to label them as best I could. I'm happy to answer questions - here or via email.
Enjoy,
Wendy
[email protected]
I have uploaded another 20 or so black and white pictures to the photo album. I tried to put them in order the way we took them on the trip, intermingled with the color shots but apparently, it don't work that way. So I tried to label them as best I could. I'm happy to answer questions - here or via email.
Enjoy,
Wendy
[email protected]
#17
Joined: Dec 2003
Posts: 53
Likes: 0
thanks, joan and wendy, somehow this time I got into the album, (don't know what I did different ). I loved the photos!
I especially loved the photos of places I've seen, like Trim castle and the Moone High Cross. The Brown's Hill Dolmen was the first Irish megalith I saw and it still blows my mind. How did they do that?
In Sept. we'll be doing a somewhat similar route, (including the now apparently mandatory Fodorite stay at the Shores!)
thanks again,
Barbara
I especially loved the photos of places I've seen, like Trim castle and the Moone High Cross. The Brown's Hill Dolmen was the first Irish megalith I saw and it still blows my mind. How did they do that?
In Sept. we'll be doing a somewhat similar route, (including the now apparently mandatory Fodorite stay at the Shores!)
thanks again,
Barbara
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