Good morning! My partner and I are traveling next month and will be visiting the South of France for a quick week. We arrive (via Stockholm) from NYC in Nice on Sunday, 4/13 and intend to go directly to Marseille where we will be staying for our first 3 nights before taking the train to Nice for the remainder of our time. I have a couple of questions I was hoping to garner responses to prior to our departure:
1. I've been hesitant to buy tickets (train/bus) for our trip to Marseille before landing in Nice since we have a layover en route. We'll be traveling with only carry-on baggage, without anything to declare, but I'm uncertain which method of transportation will be quickest - both to board and travel between the two cities. Do you think I should just purchase tickets allowing for a generous gap in time between expected arrival time and departure of bus/train to ensure that we have solid reservations? If things happen faster than allotted, can we trade our later tickets for a more imminent departure?
2. We've been told that we "must" have the bouillabaisse at Restaurant Michel in Marseille. It happens to be quite convenient to where we're staying, it also happens to be indulgently expensive. Have you been? Do you have recommendations for other spots in either of the cities we'll be visiting for meals and/or cocktails?
3. Are there any other suggestions for us to make the most of our brief time in this area? We have an afternoon walking tour scheduled for Marseille on Monday and plan to take the train to Italy (San Remo?) once we're settled in Nice. We enjoy walking, eating, drinking, and being outdoors, but are open to visiting art, history or nature museums, particularly if the weather isn't conducive to being outside.
Merci - Silvia
1. I've been hesitant to buy tickets (train/bus) for our trip to Marseille before landing in Nice since we have a layover en route. We'll be traveling with only carry-on baggage, without anything to declare, but I'm uncertain which method of transportation will be quickest - both to board and travel between the two cities. Do you think I should just purchase tickets allowing for a generous gap in time between expected arrival time and departure of bus/train to ensure that we have solid reservations? If things happen faster than allotted, can we trade our later tickets for a more imminent departure?
2. We've been told that we "must" have the bouillabaisse at Restaurant Michel in Marseille. It happens to be quite convenient to where we're staying, it also happens to be indulgently expensive. Have you been? Do you have recommendations for other spots in either of the cities we'll be visiting for meals and/or cocktails?
3. Are there any other suggestions for us to make the most of our brief time in this area? We have an afternoon walking tour scheduled for Marseille on Monday and plan to take the train to Italy (San Remo?) once we're settled in Nice. We enjoy walking, eating, drinking, and being outdoors, but are open to visiting art, history or nature museums, particularly if the weather isn't conducive to being outside.
Merci - Silvia
Does your walking tour of Marseille include the Le Panier neighborhood? If not, I recommend walking through that area on your own. This is Marseille’s oldest district that is filled with colorful murals and street art/graffiti. It is fascinating! I took tons of photos when we were there a few years ago.
I love Marseille and hope you do, too! And like KarenWoo, I greatly enjoyed my time in Le Panier. If you haven't already seen it, you might find some useful information in my trip report -- posts # 126 and 137. You'll find descriptions of what I did and also comments on the restaurants I patronized ... I thought La Poule Noire excellent, and it still gets a lot of praise.
A stellar month in southeastern France
I didn't have bouillabaisse at Michel, but in researching options, I remember finding that all recommended options were expensive. I hope yours is better than mine was!
I assume flying into Marseille didn't work for you?
A stellar month in southeastern France
I didn't have bouillabaisse at Michel, but in researching options, I remember finding that all recommended options were expensive. I hope yours is better than mine was!
I assume flying into Marseille didn't work for you?
You best option may be the slower, non-reserved seating TER local trains that stop at the airport station (St. Augustin at Grand Arenas). In that case, tickets I think are valid for the entire day in the direction of travel (no exchange needed if you miss). To take the TGV-InOUI, you will need to transfer instead at Nice, Antibes or Cannes and the frequency is diminished. Note: Transdev is set to take over the TER service along this route this year, the first private operator to win a contract (June originally). The buses can actually be quicker, via private lines like Flix and Bla Bla Bus that leave directly from the airport. However, the schedules are more limited.
Seriously - you all are the best! I've messaged our walking tour guide to inquire if the Le Panier neighborhood is part of the tour and am awaiting his response. Fortunately, we're staying quite near that area and can always explore independently if it isn't on the itinerary. The host of our accommodations is making a reservation for us at Restaurant Michel and I will report back on our experience. Hoping for tender fish! I've also taken some notes from @kja's excellent trip report for additional potential dining spots, as well as other activities and attractions. Lastly, I bit the bullet yesterday and set up an account on SNCF Connect, downloaded the app and purchased tickets for a direct train to Marseille Saint-Charles departing from Nice Saint-Augustin at 1:33 PM. That gives us (assuming the flights are on schedule) an hour and 45 minutes to make the train. If we miss it, we'll regroup and figure out our next possible departure.
I am still accepting additional suggestions and tips!
I am still accepting additional suggestions and tips!
There is no single "must" bouillabaisse restaurant in Marseille. The authentic ones use the catch of the day, which can be quite variable. Try to stay away from the tourist traps (for example surrounding the Vieux Port), not always possible I am well aware.
I agree with kerouac that there is no "must". I could say that for all of travel, but certainly for a single restaurant.
However, if you have 'been told' that this place is a must, then the question becomes twofold:
Who told you? If it's a good friend, then it will be a question of having a shared experience to talk about later. Also, a question of trust.
If not, do you want bouillabaisse anyway? I think it's worth the experience at least once. Since there is no one best, (really, there isn't), you should first familiarize yourself with how 'true' bouillabaisse is served, which is unique and is not easily replicated abroad. Few places are fishing for rascasse. I suggest you look at the Marseille tourism website which explains this and lists 26 places serving bouillabaisse. Pick out a place that you are attracted to and are not scandalized by the price:
https://www.marseille-tourisme.com/e...e-restaurants/
Most people traveling to Europe can probably afford a splurge like this, even if you are not inclined to spend the money. I have taken camping gear to Europe, so I am intimately familiar with not splurging.
However, if you have 'been told' that this place is a must, then the question becomes twofold:
Who told you? If it's a good friend, then it will be a question of having a shared experience to talk about later. Also, a question of trust.
If not, do you want bouillabaisse anyway? I think it's worth the experience at least once. Since there is no one best, (really, there isn't), you should first familiarize yourself with how 'true' bouillabaisse is served, which is unique and is not easily replicated abroad. Few places are fishing for rascasse. I suggest you look at the Marseille tourism website which explains this and lists 26 places serving bouillabaisse. Pick out a place that you are attracted to and are not scandalized by the price:
https://www.marseille-tourisme.com/e...e-restaurants/
Most people traveling to Europe can probably afford a splurge like this, even if you are not inclined to spend the money. I have taken camping gear to Europe, so I am intimately familiar with not splurging.
If you go to Italy, you must visit the town of Albenga. It is not very touristy, but very, very beautiful, with a large historical center, which is in very good condition. San Remo is a good city, but too popular. In Albenga you can feel the real Italy. The restaurants are amazing, very beautiful streets and a beautiful embankment. It is not much longer to travel by train from there than to San Remo. Remember that when you go from Nice, you will need to change trains in Ventimiglia.
In response to kerouac shelemm and Romul81 -
The original recommendation to dine at Restaurant Michel came from a guest at the restaurant where my partner works. This man was a native of France, but I am unsure if he was specifically from Marseille. The restaurant where my partner works is quite highly regarded so we know this guest has an appreciation for dining.
I can afford to splash out on a fine and expensive meal while traveling, but honestly am most comfortable in more low key joints - and this is even after having spent decades working in fine dining. Some of my most memorable meals have been in neighborhood spots filled with locals. That being said, I've also been to a number of renowned restaurants in major American cities, including the French Laundry in California where we spent $600 for lunch for two - more than $20 years ago!
Albenga sounds lovely and I've added this recommendation to my list of potential places to visit. We had originally seized up on San Remo (like so many others, it seems!) for its proximity to Nice, but may be inclined to go that additional distance. Thanks for the added directions for travel, too. Grazie!
The original recommendation to dine at Restaurant Michel came from a guest at the restaurant where my partner works. This man was a native of France, but I am unsure if he was specifically from Marseille. The restaurant where my partner works is quite highly regarded so we know this guest has an appreciation for dining.
I can afford to splash out on a fine and expensive meal while traveling, but honestly am most comfortable in more low key joints - and this is even after having spent decades working in fine dining. Some of my most memorable meals have been in neighborhood spots filled with locals. That being said, I've also been to a number of renowned restaurants in major American cities, including the French Laundry in California where we spent $600 for lunch for two - more than $20 years ago!
Albenga sounds lovely and I've added this recommendation to my list of potential places to visit. We had originally seized up on San Remo (like so many others, it seems!) for its proximity to Nice, but may be inclined to go that additional distance. Thanks for the added directions for travel, too. Grazie!
There are a number of great villages and towns across the border. Some like Bordighera as it is a bit less gritty. When going by train, you may only be able to choose one. But the drive along the coastal route between Finale Ligure and Noli is especially nice (or even from Imperia). The last stretch hugs the sea with cliffs on one side, like Highway 1 in California. The route north from Ventimiglia to the hill towns of Dolceacqua and Apricale is great.
If you end up with rainy times, the Chagall Museum probably is a better choice. However, there are some special exhibitions at the other museums that can be excellent, like at the Charles Negre museum (the current Vivian Maeir exposition is exceptional) or the expanded collection of Raoul Dufy at the Beaux Arts. There probably is enough along the Cote d'Azur to fit your interests, no matter the weather. You can also take the walks around Cap Ferrat (or Cap d;Antibes) or the walk up Mont Boron to Fort Alban (passing by Elton John's estate outer wall). Just take care to book the most popular places ahead, especially during the run up to Easter.
If you end up with rainy times, the Chagall Museum probably is a better choice. However, there are some special exhibitions at the other museums that can be excellent, like at the Charles Negre museum (the current Vivian Maeir exposition is exceptional) or the expanded collection of Raoul Dufy at the Beaux Arts. There probably is enough along the Cote d'Azur to fit your interests, no matter the weather. You can also take the walks around Cap Ferrat (or Cap d;Antibes) or the walk up Mont Boron to Fort Alban (passing by Elton John's estate outer wall). Just take care to book the most popular places ahead, especially during the run up to Easter.
Chez Fonfon specializes in bouillabaisse. https://www.chez-fonfon.com/en/
From my 2012 Provence trip report:
On our way to the port to go to the chateau d’If we had stopped in the tourist office and the person behind the desk made a reservation for us for Fon-Fon, recommended by our hosts and the Michelin Red Guide for its bouillabaisse. It was delicious and expensive ($157) for basically a one course meal with wine. There is a trick to eating bouillabaisse: One should not use the croutons with the rouille because they are just unnecessary filler. Similarly, one should not drink too much of the broth. The platter of fish is so large that it can’t be finished if one fills up on croutons and broth, both of which are delicious on their own..
Here is its location:
From my 2012 Provence trip report:
On our way to the port to go to the chateau d’If we had stopped in the tourist office and the person behind the desk made a reservation for us for Fon-Fon, recommended by our hosts and the Michelin Red Guide for its bouillabaisse. It was delicious and expensive ($157) for basically a one course meal with wine. There is a trick to eating bouillabaisse: One should not use the croutons with the rouille because they are just unnecessary filler. Similarly, one should not drink too much of the broth. The platter of fish is so large that it can’t be finished if one fills up on croutons and broth, both of which are delicious on their own..
Here is its location:
Quote:
Unfortunately, Chez Fonfon is the restaurant where I tried bouillabaisse and found it impossibly and unpleasantly chewy. I loved the area, though!Originally Posted by Michael
Chez Fonfon specializes in bouillabaisse.
