Connie

<BR>Author: Connie ([email protected]) <BR>Date: 2/16/2001, 9:24 am ET <BR> <BR>Message: Maribel (et al), <BR>I have really enjoyed reading your comments, you are an absolute wealth of knowledge. My husband and 8 year old daughter and I are taking a northern Spain trip this summer. We are leaving in mid June and staying for 16 days. We are planning a triangular route; starting in Madrid, up to San Sebastian, along the coast to Luarca and back down to Madrid through Leon and Segovia. My daughter is a great travel companion (took her to Portugal 2 years ago) but we don't want to be in the car the whole time. We are trying to stay in lodging under $50 (US) per night. Can you make any recommendations for lodging along this route with possible 3 or 4 day home base locations for day trips. We like the idea of 'casa rurales' too. Also, we may splurg on a parador for one night. What is the best one for an 8 year old who loves castles and/or interesting architecture (must be child friedly for a very well behaved child). Although, maybe our money is better spent staying in a very interesting 'casa rurales' since we do not seek out luxery, just fascinating experiences. <BR> <BR>We have travelled all over Europe and have never once made reservations in advance for lodging. Is this a wise approach in June in northern Spain? It does tend to tie us down if we find we want to move on. Any ideas? <BR> <BR>Also, we are looking for ideas for must sees and good, inexpensive eats along the way. We will need to hit a few choice beaches for my daughter and some excellant hikes. My daughter loves steps and mountain climbs. <BR> <BR>Do you think we've given ourselves anough time for this route. We were even wondering if we had enough time to drive the coast the rest of the way to Santiago before heading back to Madrid. <BR> <BR>Any ideas you or others have would be most helpful. I am totally addicted to this web site. Thankyou so much for your insight. <BR>Connie <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>

Patrick

I will not try to outguess Maribel. I carried several pages of notes she sent me for my trip last summer through Northern Spain, following them explicitly wherever possible and they were extremely helpful. As to your question about the Parador, however, if you can swing it, I'd stay at the parador in Leon, the Hostal San Marcos. The decor and room will thrill your daughter. We found it the greatest parador we stayed in, far surpassing the one in Santiago that everyone raves about. In addition it was not as expensive either and the regional menu in their superb restaurant was a true bargain. If you book directly with the parador you will probably get a better rate than going through any of the websites or certainly the US booking agency for the paradors, at least that was our experience. Their fax # is 34-987-233458. We paid 23,005 pestas (about $121) for the hotel, parking, breakfast, and taxes, easily worth every penny, although I realize that is beyond your planned budget.

Maribel

Hi Connie, <BR>I think you'll have enough time to drive your route so long as you don't plan too much time in Madrid. We're doing our circle in 16 days from Avila/Segovia, up to Santiago then east as far as Santander then back to Madrid. If you include the coast to Santiago, you'll need to add a few days. But I do think it would be wise to make reservations. The Parador 16th c Hostal de San Marcos in León (which I think is the most worthy of a splurge-it's magnificent!) books up very, very quickly, and the "casas rurales" have 4-10 rms and are extremely popular now with Spaniards; I've already made our reserv. for our June trip. <BR> <BR>A few ideas come to mind about your "home bases" in the "casas rurales". <BR> <BR>In the San Sebastián area, we love the "casas" in Fuenterrabía (Hondarribia). We think they’re the best of the whole lot; they’re decorated to a very high standard, better than many 2 even 3 star hotels and immaculate, perfect for a 3-4 day stay, also very well located for exploring both sides of the Basque Country, the Batzán Valley of Navarra, even down to Pamplona and within 1 hr. 15 min of Bilbao. We’ve stayed at the "Txakarrenea" in the large dormer room upstairs (very private) and in late July, we’ll try the "Iketxe" which has gotten very favorable reviews in the Spanish press. Also the "Arotzenea" and the "Maidanea" are very nice. You can see them and reserve (please reserve ahead, even in June) at www.encomix.es/nekazal The tariff is an extremely reasonable 6-8,000 per day for a double. <BR> <BR>For a base on the Asturian coast around Luarca, I would suggest either the 33 room "Arias" (same owner as the more exp. "Palacio Arias") in nearby Navia (tel: 985 473 675, tariff, 7,000 pts), a member of the "Casas Asturianas" group, or the old time, venerable, very cozy 37 rm ‘Casa Consuelo" 5 km from Luarca in the village of Otur (tel: 985 470 767, email: [email protected],-tariff, 7,500 double) which has a well regarded restaurant. <BR>Also the simple "Casa Manoli" in Almuña (tel: 985 470 040; tariff: 7,000) <BR>When in the Luarca area, I think you'd enjoy the beach of Oleiros in Cudillero and a trip inland to Los Oscos, around Taramundi-this area is splendidly scenic. <BR> <BR>

Maribel

If you’d like something in an area for fabulous walks between S. S. and Luarca, you might think about the "Posada del Valle" in Arriondas, actually the tiny hamlet of Collía (phone: 98 584 11 57; tariff: 9,000 pts., only 8 rms. See it at www.posadadelvalle.com. It belongs to the "Casonas Asturianas" group, and is in the heart of the Asturian side of Picos de Europa in the Sueves nature Reserve where the Asturian wild horses , the "asturconces" still roam. We spent 4 days in that area last yr., and it was heavenly-fifty shades of green and wonderful walking country anywhere you turn! Plus it’s a short drive from the lovely beach of La Isla. Others in the coastal area around Llanes (great beaches, such as Las Cuevas del Mar) include "La Montaña Mágica" (tel: 98 592 51 76; tariff: 7,400) and the really nice "Casas del Llugarón I or II" (tel: 98 589 32 24; email: [email protected] tariff: 7,500) in tiny Miravalles, near Villaviciosa. The owner is known for her nice meals as well. <BR>You can see the "Casonas Asturianas" at www.paraisonatural.com or <BR>www.hotelesasturianos.com <BR> <BR>If the Parador in León is full and you'd like a countryside base, you might enjoy "La Posada del Marqués" installed in a former Camino de Santiago pilgrim's hospital and adjacent to a 12th c Cistercien monastery (tel: 987 35 71 71; email: [email protected]; tariff: 10,200 for 3) in Cerezo de la Ribera, 20 min. west of Leon, or the "Cuca la Vaina: (tel: 987 69 10 78; tariff: 12,000 for 3, includes brk.-offers horseback riding) in Castrillo de los Polvazares, near Astorga. <BR> <BR>For a country basis around Segovia to tour the walled city of Avila, lovely little Renaissance Pedraza (a gem!), Riaza, the well restored castle at Manzanares el Real (your daughter would really like this), the Bourbon Palace and fountains of La Granja the gorge of Las Hoces del Duratón (steep climbs) and the Monasterio de El Paular and area around Rascafria, I'd suggest "El Molino del Río Viejo" (tel: 921 40 30 63; tariff: 10,000 ) in Collado Hermoso (riding) or "La Casa de Gildo" (tel: 921 40 31 10, tariff: 6,000) in Sotosalbos (the Nobel prize novelist, Camilo José Cela slept here) or even "La Posada del Acebo" (tel: 921 50 72 60; tariff: 8,000) in Prádena de la Sierra, which has walking routes-all in the Segovia province. <BR>

Connie

Thank you a million times Patrick and Maribel. Your comments are right on target with our travel style...as if you read my mind. I had another thought, if we have extra time would you head toward the Pyrennes or the Galacia region? Our route can change clockwise or counter clockwise so that either of these regions are at the end of our trip. <BR> <BR>Also, I've gathered through other Fodor posts Maribel, that you also know a great deal about restaurants in the area we plan to travel. We love seafood, authentic regional restaurants, and have very adventurous palettes (my daughter too!) We tend to stay away from expensive, formal restaurants. Any ideas.\ <BR> <BR>Again, thank you for your suggestions. I'm amazed by the level of time and thought you put into your responses. Certainly, very generous since I am a total stranger. I guess all of us are addicted to travel <BR> <BR>Connie

Maribel

Hi Connie, <BR>Yes I'm a travel addict, enjoying planning trips for others and love to promote Northern "Green" Spain even more! I'm compiling a list of restaurants for you but am at work now, so will have to post this later from home. I'll be back this evening!