Madrid eating??

Old Dec 3rd, 2023, 10:19 AM
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Madrid eating??

In late March, TABERNA LAREDO or LA CATAPA?? Love Laredo but time to explore another place in Retiro? Solo diner...

Will probably return to TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE ($$$$)...unless Maribel and Revulgo have another suggestion.
Will stay in Salamanca/Almagro. Calle Orfilia. Hope to snag taple at Sacha this time....open to anything...love chuleta and lechazo...and all shellfish!!

Almost time to book NOOR in Cordoba!!

Been away too long but getting back on my feet now!!!

Last edited by ekscrunchy; Dec 3rd, 2023 at 10:23 AM.
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Old Dec 3rd, 2023, 10:46 AM
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I know you love TABERNA LAREDO and am hesitant to pry you away.
I go to LA CATAPA regularly (full disclosure: the chef, Miguel Angel Jiménez is a personal friend and a very sweet person). It has a Repsol sun.
The menu here is very similar; it's the ambiance that's totally, completely different. La Catapa serves the same chuletillas de conejo that I know you like, navajas gallegas, croquetas de patata y trufa (yum), great steak tartare, mejillones de roca al curry rojo, and every night there are a half dozen off menu items, including whole fish, mushroom dishes when in season and virrey when in season, and a complimentary aperitivo with a choice of about 4 is served with your drink order, a chupito and truffle to end your meal after dessert. My favorite dessert: either his cheese tray or the tiramisu casero con helado de café irlandés.

For lunch yesterday I had an off-menu mushroom feast: amanitas cesareas with poached egg and níscolos escabechados because they're both in season.
There is always something new each day, market driven.

The difference between the two, although the food is of the same quality:
TABERNA LAREDO has a sleeker, more sophisticated, darker décor (which strikes me a bit cold), while LA CATAPA, in the former space of LAREDO, is a far more casual, lively space, more like a local's haunt, which it's always been, a great neighborhood bar-restaurant. It has almost a cult following among the food lovers, who regale each other on Twitter and Instagram about their dining adventures with all their special dishes and special wines. I follow many of them.

It's the ABC food critic, Carlos Maribona's, favorite, number one gastro bar and 3-starred Michelin chef ("best chef in the world"), David (Dabiz) Muñoz also is a fan. But it´s totally unpretentious, like a neighborhood canteen with an extremely loyal clientele (with a smattering of foreigners), and on weekends it gets extremely crowded (I was just there for lunch this past Friday) and noisy in the bar area, where it is packed to the rafters. But all the best gastro bars in the Retiro are extremely crowded on weekends. If you want to go at a less hectic time, choose a Tues or Wed (Thursday is the new Friday here).

Here's Maribona's list from last year
https://abcblogs.abc.es/gastronomia/...drid-2022.html

I prefer the bar section and book a high table there because it's more lively and I get to chat more with the staff.
As to the wine section, Miguel Angel has a first class sommelier, Nico (from Vejer!!, who is also a personal friend) who can advise you well, as he has many great offerings by the glass. The staff is very friendly. If you do go, please tell Miguel Angel when you book online that I sent you.

As to others, for Sunday night fine dining, I suggest LA BIEN APARECIDA or SANTERRA (we were there today for lunch), which just received a Michelin star. I also urge you to try LAKASA, off Ponzano, at any time, which is an extremely dependable bistrot that everyone loves, especially the food critics.

Rather than return to LA TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE, I would urge you to book instead at SACHA.
Or try the new and very "hot", French Basque HARAMBOURE in the Salamanca quarter, that chefs are raving about.
http://www.haramboure.com

Madrid's new Michelin Bib Gourmand: TRESPORCUATRO in the Salamanca quarter, which we like a great deal.

Last edited by Maribel; Dec 3rd, 2023 at 11:27 AM.
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Old Dec 4th, 2023, 05:13 PM
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OOOh..Haramboure! And La Catapa, and Sacha.....for sure!

Have you ever heard of Las Reses across the street from the Hotel Orfila??
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Old Dec 5th, 2023, 12:32 AM
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Yes, I've walked past it several times, but I've never dined there. It's a classic but doesn't get much love lately from the food press. For a meat-centric, grilled beef meal, I'd rather go to Piantao or Los 33, both in Salesas.

Make sure you book at Haramboure! It's gotten great reviews (Miguel Angel told me specifically on Sat. to book there and to have the tarta tatin.) Here's a recent review:
https://www.timeout.es/madrid/es/res...tes/haramboure
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Old Dec 5th, 2023, 04:33 AM
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Near the Orfila hotel is Coquetto Bar by chef Mario Sandoval (Coque restaurant, 2 Michelin stars). I haven't been there yet but it looks interesting.
https://coquettobar.com/
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Old Dec 5th, 2023, 05:08 AM
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eks,
I went for breakfast when staying at the Pavilions. Your hotel, of course, has its restaurant supervised by the Sandoval brothers, but Coquettobar is their casual option and since you'll have a fabulous breakfast there, you might just want to try Coquetto Bar for a lunch, although with that breakfast you may never be hungry for lunch!.
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Old Dec 5th, 2023, 07:21 AM
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I mentioned Piantao Chamberí, the one on Sagasta, and the new Los 33 as really good grilled meat places because they're walkable from the Orfila. Piantao has Argentinian owners, while Los 33 is a new España-Uruguay place brought to Salesas by the owners of El Viajero in La Latina and Charrúa in Justicia (the latter also a very recommendable place for grilled meats). Los 33 is one of the hottest tickets in town. We were lucky to get in without reservations without a long wait but that was when it just opened. Another fine grilled meat place is Rocacho Plaza in Salamanca, which serves the buey from El Capricho, where you've already dined.

https://piantao.es/restaurante-argentino-chamberi/
https://los33.net
https://elpais.com/estilo-de-vida/2022-06-10/los-33-el-nuevo-local-de-tapeo-a-la-brasa-con-esencia-uruguaya-en-madrid.html
https://charruamadrid.com


Madrid is absolutely bursting at the seams with new places to dine....some will just be flashes in the pan and some will last, but it's really hard to keep up with them all!

Last edited by Maribel; Dec 5th, 2023 at 07:52 AM.
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Old Dec 6th, 2023, 07:49 AM
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Do we have a carta for Haramboure online???


Will go for sure..still keeping eyes peeled for Noor booking!

x
Besos!




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Old Dec 6th, 2023, 09:14 AM
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The web page for Haramboure frustratingly, doesn't include the menu. I wish it did, but you can see his creations on his Instagram
https://www.instagram.com/haramboure_madrid/?hl=en

The critics are calling it one of the great openings of this fall. Very minimalist décor, bare recycled wooden tables with only a candle on them. Open kitchen. Emphasis is entirely on the food and simply the very best purveyors, many small producers from the Basque Country, both sides. No foams. Lots of vegetables.

From the reviews I've read, here are some standout dishes: a "snack" of bollo de mantequilla (Bilbao style) con caviar, pencas rellenas de tartar de atún (yum), tarta tatin de cebollas con una emulsion de queso Idiazábal (unmissable), pimientos cristal asados con torreznos, arroz de chipirones, almejas y perejil, salpicón de pez San Pedro,
bistec de ternera a la Rossini, and for dessert, tarta Saint Honoré con trufa rallada y crema, or helado de queso Idiazábal con mermelada de frutos.

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Old Dec 7th, 2023, 06:57 AM
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#1 Haramboure will be a must..reserve close to date.
#2 La Catapa

Others to be determined soon!!!!!

Noor may open up tomorrow for my dates...
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Old Dec 7th, 2023, 07:11 AM
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The Haramboure chef (from Durango, Vizcaya) is Pati Zumárraga and his partner is Argentinian Patricia Haramboure. He was the former chef and she the hostess of Fismuler of the La Ancha group. Open kitchen, cooking with firewood, not with charcoal. Yes, it should be a must.
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Old Dec 7th, 2023, 12:06 PM
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Those are not really my thing; Maribel gives excellent news about the very best in Madrid, but my lovely stuff tends more towards lower end bars or restaurants, even if they don't have extraordinary cuisine. My budget does not allow me to stay up to date with all the sites as I would like best
https://www.google.com/maps/d/viewer...409686132&z=17
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Old Dec 8th, 2023, 02:50 AM
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Went to Haramboure this morning at 11 for his outdoor stand selling his famous bocadillos de tortilla ahumada but no go today because it’s a holiday. On week days the chef has been selling this creation from 11 to 12 out side the restaurant door, or until he runs out. 2 to a customer, only 5 euros. You see my budget doesn’t permit constant Michelin star dining! Honestly…
I’ll try again on Tuesday.

Revulgo, I go to many of the bars on your niffty maps, I really do, especially in La Latina and Lavapiés.

Last edited by Maribel; Dec 8th, 2023 at 02:54 AM.
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Old Dec 17th, 2023, 01:16 PM
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Maribel, just wanted to report the happy news that I secured a high-top table at La Catapa!! Yeah!

Your mention of Haramboure'sd smoked tortilla bocadillo willl surely send me there at 11am sharp on a weekday!!

Unfortunately although I have 5 nights this time instead of 5, those include both Sunday and Monday. But for Sunday I think I will go for LA BIEN APARECIDA so that will be covered.

SACHA is at the top of the list but I need to wait many weeks before attempting to book there; I noticed that many restaurants take bookings months ahead, but not SACHA and not HARAMBOURE.

I know you are not a huge aficionado but I did book TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE for my night of arrival (had to give credit card but can cancel with generous notice if I decide to do so).

So here is the current plan:

Thursday night of arrival: TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE (looks like chef has changed hands but JuanLo is still there)
Friday night: High top bar table at LA CATAPA; will certainly say hello to your friend from Vejer!!
Saturday night: SACHA (hope!)
Sunday night: LA BIEN APARECIDA?? (Unless you send me someplace else; lunch could be an alternative to dinner)
Monday (last) night: HARAMBOURE???????? Or SACHA if I have not managed a Saturday booking!!


Although I normally either skip lunch to do some snacking (Casa Dani!!). I will certainly take lunch at Sacha if I can snag a table. It looks as if they book only about two weeks out but will work with the hotel to see if they have some enchufe (?!) Do you happen to know how I can find out exactly when SACHA opens their website for future bookings?? I could always switch around the tables I've already booked since they are not as difficult and Sacha is at the top of my list this time (??) so I want to put my request in the minute the book opens!!

Due to the shortness of the trip, LAREDO may not make the cut except maybe for a light bite but I agree,, better to try something new (to me) this time (La Catapa)

How can I thank you for all your information, tips, and all else over the years? I am so sorry we will probably miss each other this year, but I do have a simmering plan for the north of Spain later in the spring IF I can convince the partner to tear himself away from his adoration of Italy! But that's for another thread, and you've pretty much given me so many of the ideas on that fairly recent thread about Logrono and on a thread on the Basque region..but that's for another thread!!

Besos!! ek

Last edited by ekscrunchy; Dec 17th, 2023 at 01:24 PM.
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Old Dec 17th, 2023, 10:34 PM
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Logroño! Laurel street immediately comes to mind
https://www.callelaurel.org/
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Old Dec 17th, 2023, 10:42 PM
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Eks,
I´m actually glad you want to return to La Tasquite de Enfrente since you had such a nice meal there before. Yes, Juanjo passed the torch in the kitchen to his second in command, but he is still very much a presence.

I'll try again at Haramboure to snag that Monday-Friday bocadillo de tortilla ahumada for 5 euros and tell you about it, but I hope to snag a reservation there soon. It's one of the city's hottest tables and I have to try the tarta tatin.

Nico Fernández-Trujillo from Vejer is the sommelier at La Catapa and he will give you great advice as to wines by the glass. He's a big sherry aficionado, obviously, being from Vejer, but also a big fan of champagnes. I hope you've booked an earlier slot for La Catapa on Friday night, as it does get crazy busy after 9 (we go at 8:30). And it's not sleek, dark and sophisticated like Laredo. Instead it has more of a local taberna vibe (it's the former space of Laredo) but offers the same types of dishes, including the chuletillas de conejo. We usually dine on daily specials, especially the fish or there may be spring mushrooms (perretxicos) available if in season then or tear peas (the ones from Maresme in Catalonia rather than the hugely expensive Basque ones). The tall gentleman working the bar is Pedro Martos and the other tall gentleman running around is Miguel Angel Jiménez, the chef owner. Dishes on the regular menu we like: his potato and truffle croquettes, the verdinas with carabineros, navajas, mejillones de roca al curry rojo.

Sunday night is a perfect time for La Bien Aparecida, as many of the city's top tables are closed on Sunday nights and Rafa is now closed on Sunday nights, so we go to the bar at Rafa for a light Sunday lunch, but getting there earlier, right when they open at 1:30.

I think Sacha opens its bookings just 2 weeks ahead. The concierge at your hotel could do this booking for you.

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Old Dec 18th, 2023, 04:41 AM
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Eks,
About Casa Dani,
I was there on Saturday and arrived when it was packed at 10:30 after my failed attempt standing in line at 10 to purchase the new Christmas treat from Alex Cordobés (the cheesecake king) on Veláquez 40 for our family. I went to A.C. first, forgetting that this Roscón de Reyes Cheesecake extravaganza is only sold on Fridays and only 50 are made and the lines are a mile long.

Here´s this calorie bomb creation on his Instagram--
https://www.instagram.com/alexcordobess/?hl=en

At any rate, if the Casa Dani bar stools inside the market are all taken inside, don't fret because Dani has added 12 bar stools in the market hall on the counter side and another 12 in the hall on the dining room side with plenty of staff roaming around to take your order. His creamy tortilla is also sold at the take away counter, at the miniscule bar at the Lagasca market entrance with terrace, and at the restaurant on Lagasca next to the market (the restaurant doesn't open until noon).

There is a constant ebb and flow to Casa Dani and by the time I left at 11, it had emptied out.
My usual order---café con leche (always served in a glass cup) and medio pintxo de tortilla (when I'm alone because a whole pintxo is a quarter of a tortilla). The damage: €4.40.

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Old Dec 18th, 2023, 09:40 AM
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Alex Cordobés, the cheesecake king---his shop in on Velázquez 60 (not 40) between Ayala and don Ramón de la Cruz, within easy walking distance of El Mercado de la Paz. Unfortunately at the shop they don´t now sell individual portions. I bought a small traditional one to take home for 12 euros.

I just read that last Friday, when the first Roscón de Reyes cheesecake came out (it will be available until Jan. 5), there were people who actually offered 3,000 euros not to stand in line (there's no way to order one in advance). Insanity!
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Old Dec 20th, 2023, 12:57 PM
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3,000 euro to hold a place on line? That must be some cheesecake!!!!!!! I really need to get to Madrid during December sometime!! I never knew that there was ANY cheesecake for which Spain is famous! How is Alex Cordobes' smoked cheesecake hunt progressing??

Just read about two food shops that sounds interesting: DONA TOMASA, for Cantabrian products, and COALLA focusing on Asturias but wide selection. I'm sure you know them well! With all these great smaller shops, including MANTEQUILLAS BRAVO, I may even miss EL CORTE INGLES!!

The idea of SACHA has me hooked! I just don't have the confidence that this particular concierge can swing this but I will be asking soon, and remind him closer to the date, and also keep my own eye on their site, which allows bookings about 2 weeks ahead. I will also try for lunch in case the dinner idea fails me.

Ditto for HARAMBOURE, books close to the date.

I'm so excited!!!! Which day to you arrive in the city?

Last edited by ekscrunchy; Dec 20th, 2023 at 12:59 PM.
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Old Dec 20th, 2023, 11:08 PM
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Mantequería Andrés, next to Puerta de Toledo, is a vintage grocery dating from 1870. It is not a store where they sell "delicacies" but you can find some unusual stuff.
https://www.mantequeriaandres.com/
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