Madrid, Barcelona, Seville - help and advice needed
#21
Original Poster
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 38
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Thank you all for replies.
Alec, hopefully the train schedules will be loaded soon. It's challenging to plan the trip without knowing the train schedule...
cruiseluv, I hope to come back to Spain eventually, although not in the near future. I'm very tempted to visit all three cities, but I am trying to cool my head. I don't like city hopping, I just can't chose between Barcelona and Seville! argh.... I'm glad that Hotel Prado has been "verified"! Thank you.
Danon, thank you for your tips. Your pace at Madrid is exactly my style... I'm still reading reviews and suggestions, and still have not made up my mind. Danon, excuse my ignorant question, but by the Palace, do you mean Palacio Real? Where did you stay in Madrid? Do you know where you plan to stay in Seville?
appleta, thank you for your review. I don't think I'll be visiting museums much in Madrid, except maybe the Prado. I'll be looking out for street strolls, flamenco shows, parks, etc. I'm more of an outdoors person.
In Barcelona, I am considering Balmes Hotel. Has anyone perhaps seen it inside or out?
Alec, hopefully the train schedules will be loaded soon. It's challenging to plan the trip without knowing the train schedule...
cruiseluv, I hope to come back to Spain eventually, although not in the near future. I'm very tempted to visit all three cities, but I am trying to cool my head. I don't like city hopping, I just can't chose between Barcelona and Seville! argh.... I'm glad that Hotel Prado has been "verified"! Thank you.
Danon, thank you for your tips. Your pace at Madrid is exactly my style... I'm still reading reviews and suggestions, and still have not made up my mind. Danon, excuse my ignorant question, but by the Palace, do you mean Palacio Real? Where did you stay in Madrid? Do you know where you plan to stay in Seville?
appleta, thank you for your review. I don't think I'll be visiting museums much in Madrid, except maybe the Prado. I'll be looking out for street strolls, flamenco shows, parks, etc. I'm more of an outdoors person.
In Barcelona, I am considering Balmes Hotel. Has anyone perhaps seen it inside or out?
#22
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
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As for flamenco in Madrid in late June, I would recommend you go and see Concha Jareño in Casa Patas. Her solo career seems to be taking off these days, she just won the 2009 Revelation Prize at the prestigious flamenco festival in Jerez. She will also dance in the great Spanish filmmaker Carlos Saura's upcoming theater piece "Flamenco Hoy" which will premiere in Madrid in August. Here she talks about dancing in Casa Patas in a recent interview with one of the most important flamenco magazines: "Now I use the tablao as a laboratory. I’m thinking about new ideas and I test them. Now I’ll do it at Casa Patas, I’ll go alone, I want to display new ideas, record myself… It’s that laboratory point, I go for just a week, I satisfy the itch. I don’t want to dance alone at theaters, that magic you have so up close, the improvisation … it’s wonderful."
http://www.flamenco-world.com/artist...no04052009.htm
Madrid is a fascinating city to walk, great diversity and much of it with a kind of small town feeling. If you temporarily get tired of the city, go to the Casa de Campo park: http://www.gomadrid.com/activity/par...-de-campo.html
In Barcelona you might want to visit the Somorrostro area, the former gypsy neighbourhood close to the Barceloneta beach where perhaps the greatest flamenco dancer of all times, Carmen Amaya (1913-1963) was born and raised. See the fountain (Fuente de Carmen Amaya) that was put up in her honour and inaugurated in her presence and to her great emotion in 1959 on the site of the barrio's old public fountain at Plaza Brugada.
http://www.esflamenco.com/scripts/ne...rmIdPagina=432
If you want a special dining experience, I suggest you go to Cal Pep in the Born district. Many think of this as one of the best seafood tapas-bars in the world. Pep himself is evoking associations of both Jack Nicholson, Don Corleone and Charlie Chaplin and his place is so popular that on any time of the year you must cue up in line at least 15 min before opening time to get a seat at the bar. The food is prepared right in front of your eyes. The monkfish (rape) is divine: http://www.calpep.com/en/principalen.htm
I would also strongly recommend that you have lunch at one of the small tapas bars at the Boquería food market just off Las Ramblas. One of the best food markets in the world and unbeatable atmosphere.
Sevilla is a world apart and you would never regret going there. I nevertheless suggest that you go well prepared and with plenty of time in the spring when it's not that hot and you can experience the Easter celebration or the Feria de Abril. Perhaps use it as a starting point for a "Tour de Andalucía"? This is an excellent introduction to the region:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Andalucia-Pa.../dp/1873429789
http://www.flamenco-world.com/artist...no04052009.htm
Madrid is a fascinating city to walk, great diversity and much of it with a kind of small town feeling. If you temporarily get tired of the city, go to the Casa de Campo park: http://www.gomadrid.com/activity/par...-de-campo.html
In Barcelona you might want to visit the Somorrostro area, the former gypsy neighbourhood close to the Barceloneta beach where perhaps the greatest flamenco dancer of all times, Carmen Amaya (1913-1963) was born and raised. See the fountain (Fuente de Carmen Amaya) that was put up in her honour and inaugurated in her presence and to her great emotion in 1959 on the site of the barrio's old public fountain at Plaza Brugada.
http://www.esflamenco.com/scripts/ne...rmIdPagina=432
If you want a special dining experience, I suggest you go to Cal Pep in the Born district. Many think of this as one of the best seafood tapas-bars in the world. Pep himself is evoking associations of both Jack Nicholson, Don Corleone and Charlie Chaplin and his place is so popular that on any time of the year you must cue up in line at least 15 min before opening time to get a seat at the bar. The food is prepared right in front of your eyes. The monkfish (rape) is divine: http://www.calpep.com/en/principalen.htm
I would also strongly recommend that you have lunch at one of the small tapas bars at the Boquería food market just off Las Ramblas. One of the best food markets in the world and unbeatable atmosphere.
Sevilla is a world apart and you would never regret going there. I nevertheless suggest that you go well prepared and with plenty of time in the spring when it's not that hot and you can experience the Easter celebration or the Feria de Abril. Perhaps use it as a starting point for a "Tour de Andalucía"? This is an excellent introduction to the region:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Andalucia-Pa.../dp/1873429789
#23
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
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One more thing: In Madrid you must visit the beautiful little park Las Vistillas (The small views) close to the Royal castle, the medieval quarter and the viaduct. Definitely one of the most beautiful places in Madrid. The sunset is spectacular with great views towards the Sierra Guadarrama. A nice outdoor restaurant (El Ventorillo) serves tasty traditional food.
http://11870.com/pro/restaurante-ven...u/jesusencinar
http://11870.com/pro/restaurante-ven...u/jesusencinar
#24

Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 16,284
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yes, I mean the Palacio Real. I am not a "palace' person, but this one is something to see. We found the Armory very interesting.
Near the Palace ( in front of the Opera) there is a lovely small park and several classy cafes .
In Madrid we rented an apt from Spain Select.
In Barcelona we rented (twice) from Habitat
For the trip in Oct. - we may do the same in Madrid ( not sure yet)
In Seville, we'll be staying in a private home.
For more than a couple of days stay, we prefer apt. to hotel rooms.
Cal Pep is always mobbed but eating there was such fun.
I also liked Cerveceria Catalana in Eixample(Barcelona).
Our first time in Barcelona we stayed for 7 days and never left the city. The second time (5 days) we took a day trip to Girona - a lovely place.
People have different styles of traveling - some like to move every few days and see as much of the country as possible, I am in a "lazy" category : take it easy, try to see some areas outside the center of the city, visit only one "attraction" a day, etc..
It is already close to 90 degrees in Madrid ( higher in Seville) so be prepared for very hot weather ( little cooler in Barcelona).
Barcelona beaches seem o.k. but Sitges ( 1/2 hour by train) is known as a resort.
Near the Palace ( in front of the Opera) there is a lovely small park and several classy cafes .
In Madrid we rented an apt from Spain Select.
In Barcelona we rented (twice) from Habitat
For the trip in Oct. - we may do the same in Madrid ( not sure yet)
In Seville, we'll be staying in a private home.
For more than a couple of days stay, we prefer apt. to hotel rooms.
Cal Pep is always mobbed but eating there was such fun.
I also liked Cerveceria Catalana in Eixample(Barcelona).
Our first time in Barcelona we stayed for 7 days and never left the city. The second time (5 days) we took a day trip to Girona - a lovely place.
People have different styles of traveling - some like to move every few days and see as much of the country as possible, I am in a "lazy" category : take it easy, try to see some areas outside the center of the city, visit only one "attraction" a day, etc..
It is already close to 90 degrees in Madrid ( higher in Seville) so be prepared for very hot weather ( little cooler in Barcelona).
Barcelona beaches seem o.k. but Sitges ( 1/2 hour by train) is known as a resort.
#25
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 5,969
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For me "too much", "rushed, etc, is primarily a function of how I spend each day. I can think easily of itineraries where a 4-days stay ends up very rushed while 2-day stays is relaxed.
I have done a trip similar to your (D), with Granada and a day trip to Toledo added. It was a piece of cake. The trip was not rushed. Of course, I didn't see everything. It was not the objective of my trip. I thought about the combination of cities and activities providing the experiences I wanted. An itinerary including Andalucia and Barcelona favors flying between them to save time. I checked out of my Barcelona Hotel at 9am and checked into my Granada Hotel at 1pm.
I love Sevilla. For a major tourist destination, it did not feel as touristy as Granada or Barcelona. I have fond memories talking to the local people.
I have done a trip similar to your (D), with Granada and a day trip to Toledo added. It was a piece of cake. The trip was not rushed. Of course, I didn't see everything. It was not the objective of my trip. I thought about the combination of cities and activities providing the experiences I wanted. An itinerary including Andalucia and Barcelona favors flying between them to save time. I checked out of my Barcelona Hotel at 9am and checked into my Granada Hotel at 1pm.
I love Sevilla. For a major tourist destination, it did not feel as touristy as Granada or Barcelona. I have fond memories talking to the local people.
#26
Original Poster
Joined: May 2009
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danon and kimhe, thank you, I took notes. 
Thanks to all of your great advice, I'm finally getting somewhere
. After much thought and deliberation, we have decided to give up Seville. It's true that it will probably be too hot to fully enjoy it, and 2 nights is not enough anyway. So we are splitting 4 nights Barcelona and 5 nights in Madrid.
Just booked hotel Balmes in Barcelona. According to the map, the location can't be beat for the price. It seems to be a bit away from all the action, and yet within walking distance of many central places. I hope my calculations are not off...
I am still at crossroads with the Madrid hotel... I was set on Hotel Prado, but I am wondering now if it's too central. I do not want to be smack on top of all the action. How is Plaza de Santa Ana? Is it usually too crowded? Should I look for something a few blocks to the side? And if so, to which side?
Thank you all so much again for your help with this trip!

Thanks to all of your great advice, I'm finally getting somewhere
. After much thought and deliberation, we have decided to give up Seville. It's true that it will probably be too hot to fully enjoy it, and 2 nights is not enough anyway. So we are splitting 4 nights Barcelona and 5 nights in Madrid.Just booked hotel Balmes in Barcelona. According to the map, the location can't be beat for the price. It seems to be a bit away from all the action, and yet within walking distance of many central places. I hope my calculations are not off...
I am still at crossroads with the Madrid hotel... I was set on Hotel Prado, but I am wondering now if it's too central. I do not want to be smack on top of all the action. How is Plaza de Santa Ana? Is it usually too crowded? Should I look for something a few blocks to the side? And if so, to which side?
Thank you all so much again for your help with this trip!
#27
Original Poster
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 38
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Hi, all..
I have another question to ask of you... I've been looking up train service from Barcelona to Madrid. We're considering taking an overnight train from Barcelona to Madrid for experience and for financial reasons. However, I have a question about the service.
I looked up the schedule on renfe.es site, and I see that the overnight route is serviced by "ESTRELLA 373". There are three categories of tickets for it, Turista, Preferente,
Litera. Which of these is a two-place sleeper cabin? I usually crosscheck with raileurope.com site, but on this site only one type of bed is available for this train - and it's not a private 2-place sleeper cabin (based on rail europe description). So I am confused now.
I was considering taking the June 27 train at 10:20pm. I would truly appreciate if someone could explain the tickets to me, as I do not read in Spanish, and was not able to find the explanation on the renfe.es site!
Thank you.
I have another question to ask of you... I've been looking up train service from Barcelona to Madrid. We're considering taking an overnight train from Barcelona to Madrid for experience and for financial reasons. However, I have a question about the service.
I looked up the schedule on renfe.es site, and I see that the overnight route is serviced by "ESTRELLA 373". There are three categories of tickets for it, Turista, Preferente,
Litera. Which of these is a two-place sleeper cabin? I usually crosscheck with raileurope.com site, but on this site only one type of bed is available for this train - and it's not a private 2-place sleeper cabin (based on rail europe description). So I am confused now.
I was considering taking the June 27 train at 10:20pm. I would truly appreciate if someone could explain the tickets to me, as I do not read in Spanish, and was not able to find the explanation on the renfe.es site!
Thank you.
#28
Joined: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
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Plaza de Santa Ana is almost as on top of the action as possible, but you could always ask for a quiet room facing the backyard. If you tell at the hotel that this is a concern for you, they will help you if possible. As for the train: Seems as if the only offer on the 22.20 train is bunkbeds. I would suggest that you take an earlier AVE (Alta velocidad/High Speed train) that takes less than 3 hrs. and costs 109 €/person.
http://horarios.renfe.es/hir/index.j...F=27&SF=6&ID=i
You could have lunch in Barcelona, dinner in Madrid and catch Concha Jareños last show on Casa Patas at midnight...
http://horarios.renfe.es/hir/index.j...F=27&SF=6&ID=i
You could have lunch in Barcelona, dinner in Madrid and catch Concha Jareños last show on Casa Patas at midnight...
#29
Original Poster
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 38
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greg, you're right about "rushed" being a state of mind. However, I'm looking at all the guides for Spain now, and my list of activities is a mile long already. 4 nights in Barcelona just MIGHT be enough if I pace myself. LOL.. I would love to see Seville, but more reasons for me to come back in the Spring few years down the road
.
kimhe, thanks for the train info. So overnight is out of the question. Do you know what the difference is between the regular AVE train and the one that has the <DIRECTO> marker next to it? The DIRECTO one seems to have a web fare rate that looks pretty attractive...
.kimhe, thanks for the train info. So overnight is out of the question. Do you know what the difference is between the regular AVE train and the one that has the <DIRECTO> marker next to it? The DIRECTO one seems to have a web fare rate that looks pretty attractive...
#32
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 38
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Guys, you're the best. So fast with replies. Hope I haven't annoyed you too much yet...
With regards to the train,
kimhe, the <directo> seems to be faster, by about 20 minutes.. Or am I missing something here...
yk. I see some ESTRELLA tickets that are even cheaper than that.. 65 Euro for 2. Consider, for example, the 5pm or the 7pm trains.. Can ESTRELLA tickets be purchased only within 7-14 day period, or can the be purchased more than 14 days in advance?
Thank you so so much!
With regards to the train,
kimhe, the <directo> seems to be faster, by about 20 minutes.. Or am I missing something here...
yk. I see some ESTRELLA tickets that are even cheaper than that.. 65 Euro for 2. Consider, for example, the 5pm or the 7pm trains.. Can ESTRELLA tickets be purchased only within 7-14 day period, or can the be purchased more than 14 days in advance?
Thank you so so much!
#34


Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,015
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I always go by what Maribe's guides says.
<i>Estrella: a 40% discount (purchased a minimum of 7 days prior) in tourist or first class </i>
If you see the Estrella fare offered, you CAN purchase them. As I said, grab them ASAP or they'll be gone.
Maribel's tutorial:
http://maribelsguides.com/mg_renfe_tutorial.html
<i>Estrella: a 40% discount (purchased a minimum of 7 days prior) in tourist or first class </i>
If you see the Estrella fare offered, you CAN purchase them. As I said, grab them ASAP or they'll be gone.
Maribel's tutorial:
http://maribelsguides.com/mg_renfe_tutorial.html
#36
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Joined: May 2009
Posts: 38
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yk, you're right, it is per person. I assumed that because I have entered 2 people, it would quote me the fare for 2 people. raileurope.com does that, and I assumed renfe.es does that as well. Thanks for pointing this out...
Thank you so much for your help!
Thank you so much for your help!
#37
Original Poster
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 38
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More train questions.
Just read on Marilbel's renfe tutorial that there are baggage limits one AVE trains. Does that mean that these are carry-on requirements, and that there is a luggage car/compartment where we store our big suitcases? I hope it does not mean that the large luggage is prohibited...
Quote from Maribel's tutorial:
"Although Renfe states that passengers are allowed 2 pieces of luggage with a total weight of 8 kilos, the largest bag having dimensions no bigger than 70 x 50 x 25, in practice this is routinely ignored. Passengers carry on as much as they can lift and store themselves. But note that storage is tight with a small baggage area with 3 shelves at the end of each carriage and very limited overhead space above the seats. And Spanish train stations do not have porter service."
And the second question - I'm looking to buy the tickets from Barcelona to Madrid, and that's what I enter into the search box. However, when the tickets come up, and I click the "continue" button, and it shows me the summary of my order, it shows "origin" - Madrid, and "destination" - Barcelona... Does it make a difference, or is the renfe website misbehaving?
Thank you!!
Just read on Marilbel's renfe tutorial that there are baggage limits one AVE trains. Does that mean that these are carry-on requirements, and that there is a luggage car/compartment where we store our big suitcases? I hope it does not mean that the large luggage is prohibited...
Quote from Maribel's tutorial:
"Although Renfe states that passengers are allowed 2 pieces of luggage with a total weight of 8 kilos, the largest bag having dimensions no bigger than 70 x 50 x 25, in practice this is routinely ignored. Passengers carry on as much as they can lift and store themselves. But note that storage is tight with a small baggage area with 3 shelves at the end of each carriage and very limited overhead space above the seats. And Spanish train stations do not have porter service."
And the second question - I'm looking to buy the tickets from Barcelona to Madrid, and that's what I enter into the search box. However, when the tickets come up, and I click the "continue" button, and it shows me the summary of my order, it shows "origin" - Madrid, and "destination" - Barcelona... Does it make a difference, or is the renfe website misbehaving?
Thank you!!
#38
Original Poster
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 38
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cruiseluv, I have a question for you about Hotel el Prado. On their website, they say that they have rooms with a terrace... Did you happen to see what this terrace overlooks? I would like to request one, but I don't want it if it overlooks some internal space... Thanks!
#39
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 3,298
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Hi elenamig,
Sorry, I don't know where those rooms would be. I am trying to envision the outside of the building to see if I picture seeing a terrace but I don't. Maybe Maribel will see your post and comment. She would probably know.
Regarding your train question, there is no special lugagge car/ compartment other than the small area at the end of teh carriage. It is as described by Maribel.
Sorry, I don't know where those rooms would be. I am trying to envision the outside of the building to see if I picture seeing a terrace but I don't. Maybe Maribel will see your post and comment. She would probably know.
Regarding your train question, there is no special lugagge car/ compartment other than the small area at the end of teh carriage. It is as described by Maribel.
#40


Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 27,015
Likes: 0
elenamig - the renfe website is tricky - you need to close the browser and open a new one (and perhaps clear your cookies) to ensure you're buying the correct train ticket.
Re luggage, I don't recommend ANYONE bringing large luggage when traveling, esp if public transport is involved. I routinely travel with a 19" rollaboard and some other people here swear by 22" or 24". 70cm = 27.5" BTW.
Re luggage, I don't recommend ANYONE bringing large luggage when traveling, esp if public transport is involved. I routinely travel with a 19" rollaboard and some other people here swear by 22" or 24". 70cm = 27.5" BTW.

