Robert2016

Another for ekscrunchy,
From another professional gourmet critic we follow, José Carlos Capel from El País:

His review of the new 2016 menu at Mugaritz, 25 small courses, a "finger food" tasting menu, only 3 that require cutlery!

http://elviajero.elpais.com/elviajer...01_043441.html

(Sending these links in Spanish only because I know you read/speak Spanish.)

ekscrunchy

Robert thank you, thank you, thank you for sending those links! Looks like we are on the right track with our lechazo picks. Pretty soon I will begin the process of booking the hotels and the Etxebarri reservation. Meanwhile, please post any additional like that you find, as you can imagine there is nothing that interests me more than reading about food. (On a related note, I just realized (via spellcheck on my new laptop) that after all this time, I have been spelling Etxebarri incorrectly) ETX, not EXT!)

Robert2016

ekscrunchy,
About Getaria dining-
We received a Kaia Kaipe email-
“We’ll be closed on Oct. 16 for 10 days. Except for July/August, during the rest of the year we are closed on Monday nights.”
And an Elkano email: “We are open Monday for lunch and closed Monday nights in October”
Elkano Txiki tells us: “In October we only open on weekends.”

About Tolosa area-
On our last trip to the Saturday Tolosa market, we followed market shopping with an Idiazábel cheese tour. Idiazábal sits in the Goierri about 30 minutes south of Tolosa down the A1. The village has a Centro de Interpretación del Queso Idiazábal and one can visit Quesos Aranburu farm.
If you want to make a day of it…but after a great txuleta at Casa Julián or and alubiada at Frontón you may just want a long nap.

Casa Urola in Donostia serves Queso Pastor Aranburu. It won a Super Gold medal at last year’s World Cheese Awards.
The 2016 World Cheese awards will be held in Donostia Nov. 16-19.

http://www.idiazabalturismo.com/es/c...ontenidos.html http://quesosaranburu.com/visitanos/

About the weekly outdoor markets-
If you go to Tolosa on a Saturday you can sample plenty of cheese at the market at El Tinglado.

We also like the Wed. market in Ordizia, which is the oldest weekly outdoor market, 504 years old. It's just 15 min. southwest of Tolosa, down the A-1.
A great traditional restaurant there, 125 years old, Bar Restaurante Martínez. Also Repsol recommended.
http://academiavascadegastronomia.co...anta-maria-10/

http://www.gipuzkoa.eus/turismodocs/.../index_en.html

The Gernika market takes place on Mondays. On the last Monday in October it holds a gastronomic festival. Last year this gourmet fair attracted 110,000 people with some 300 stands.

http://espanafascinante.com/fiestas/...as-pais-vasco/

Donostia gourmet temples-
To decide, you might want to read the reviews of ElizabathOnFood. At the bottom, under "My restaurants other + show more", she reviews them all, plus others in the US & UK you probably know well, so you can decide if her opinions coincide with yours. Her review of Etxebarri in 2015 we found interesting.

http://www.elizabethonfood.com/about.html

Ribera del Duero lodging-
Raíz is the closest to Nazareno, sitting right outside the town, next to the Consejo Regulador and the Páramo de Guzmán wine (and cheese) bodega, but it only has 5 rooms, 1 suite (we took the suite)--really a restaurant with contemporary rooms.

If you felt like a splurge (430) in the Ribera del Duero, Valladolid province, there's the spectacular estate of Abadía Retuerta in Sardón de Duero. We've toured and sent friends to its luxury hotel Le Domaine (chef is Mugaritz-trained, Adoni supervises the dining), now a Relais & Chateaux with a new wellness spa.
Abadía Retuerta is by far the most beautiful property on the "Golden Mile", N-122, past Vega Sicilia. But the drive from there to Nazarano in Roa would take 40 min. The drive to Mannix in Campasperro (Valladolid) would take 25 min.

http://www.ledomaine.es/en/

There's a wonderful traditional restaurant though in next door Tudela de Duero,
Mesón 2,39, where the Mauro winemakers dine. Female chef, fantastic vegetables and patatas panaderas. Repsol recommended and a Michelin Bibi Gourmand.

http://www.meson2-39.com

The Burgos side of Ribera del Duero is just way, way behind the Rioja in terms of tourist infrastructure. Since it can be reached by day trip from Madrid, there are fewer upmarket lodging options.

Hope this helps.

ekscrunchy

Robert, It helps immensely! But it does pose difficult decisions. Abadia Retuerta sounds very tempting, but probably not a good option for us due to the location and with the brief amount of time we would be there, we would not take full advantage of the property, or at least enough advantage to warrant the price. (Could change my mind on this, though).

One of the reasons I liked Hotel Raiz was due to its proximity to Nazareno; we would be arriving right from the airport so it would be nice to relax and then just drive a short distance for a late lunch. Not sure the driver will agree with driving 40 minutes or so from Abadia Retuerta to Nazareno. (It's a big ask for me to even include the lechazo spots two days in a row! But as you say, he can order other dishes if he likes)

The suite at Raiz; is the only extra the jacuzzi tub, or is there actually a separate room within the suite? (With the expected jet lag, might be nice to have the extra room on that first night after arrival).

So I am thinking that there is no need to spend two nights in Roa: Dine at Nazareno, sleep at Hotel Raiz, then next day drive to Mannix and after lunch, on to Burgos?


Does that sound like a decent, if rushed, plan? I should add that partner has little interest in wine tours; was in that business for a long time and probably has had enough wine
tours and tastings to last a long time. But I do look forward to imbibing my share of the local wines with meals!!


Thanks ever so much for the Kaipe restaurant closing information, and for everything else. We should arrive in Getaria around the 29th or so, and it looks like they will have reopened by then.

I guess I should get started on the bookings pretty soon..do not want to plan for so long and then get shut out anyplace on my preferred dates.

ekscrunchy

Robert: Quick question. I'm not able to read some of the restaurants on Elizabeth's list including, for example, Akelarre, Katz's Deli (NYC) and some others in NY. Wonder if that is a problem with my browser, or with the website..(?)
Did read the Etxebarri review. She seems to be an intelligent and well-versed critic and I thank you for that tip about her blog.

Robert2016

Hi ekscrunchy,
Yes, there is an extra room with the suite at Raíz.
Please tell Myriam, the sommelier and daughter of the chef, that we sent you. She doesn't speak much English.
For dinner after our Nazareno feast she prepared a charcuterie platter and cheese platter (Páramo de Guzmán) for us, along with the restaurant's home made rosquillas and left them in our room (it was our anniversary).
Raíz has an excellent wine cellar, since the area winemakers eat lunch there, and it's next door to the D.O. headquarters.

Their email: [email protected]

No, there's no reason to spend two nights there, especially if you're not doing bodega touring (we use it for our bodega touring because of the location).

On your next day you'll need to drive southwest to Mannix in Campaspero for lunch, then back northeast to Burgos. But it's perfectly doable. The drive should only take 1 hr. 30 minutes.

Mannix isn't on the main road through Campaspero, it's on a side street to the right as you come into town from the north. It is a big white house, and the slightly kitsch decor reminds us of a provincial wedding banquet hall. Here a photo of the exterior-

http://www.portalfiestas.com/fichane...po=2&id_neg=17

And you know the drill, call ahead to reserve your lechazo.
On a weekday in November we were the only diners for lunch except for a table of 4 locals, so we got the full attention of the lamb master roaster, Marco Antonio García.

http://www.lomejordelagastronomia.co...echazos-mannix

Robert2016

Here's the Akelare review: It works for me on Chrome.

http://www.elizabethonfood.com/conte...lin_stars.html

Robert2016

Just a note for your planning (that you may already know very well):
Mannix and Nazareno are closed on Mondays (because on Sundays they get packed and need the next day off).

Lunch served at Nazareno from 2:30-5:00

Phone for Nazareno:

http://www.asadosnazareno.es/contacto/

Reservations are only taken by phone, so call ahead to reserve your lechazo.

Lunch served at Mannix from 2:00-5:00

http://restaurantemannix.com

ekscrunchy

Robert I have to thank you for putting the nudge on me on another thread, where you mentioned that Etxebarri was fully booked for September. Reading that, I quickly picked up the phone only to learn that they are also booked for my desired Saturday lunch at the end of October.

Happily, they did have space for the next day at lunch. If I had not read your comments I would no doubt have waited too long and missed a chance at dining there.

I think I can pretty much adhere to the original plan, but now with only one night, the night before Axpe, in Muxika. After Etxebarri, we could drive on to Getaria and spend two nights there before driving to San Sebastian. Does that sound like a decent plan, giving up a night in Muxika but retaining three in Burgos?

Day One..Tuesday..Barajas to Roa..lunch at Nazareno

Day Two..lunch at Mannix..drive to Burgos, stay NH

Day Three..Burgos

Day Four..Burgos (or drive to Muxika after lunch in Burgos???)

Day Five..Saturday…Muxika..eat dinner at Remenetxe (???)

Day Six..Sunday..Etxebarri lunch..stay in Getaria

Day Seven..Monday..Elkano lunch..stay in Getaria

Day Eight..Tuesday..Balenciaga Museum..drive to SS

Robert2016

Hi Ekscrunchy,
Sorry I didn't top this thread to warn you about Etxebarri.

Since they were declared recently in NYC the World's Best Restaurant, number 10, their phone has been ringing non-stop for reservations.

While in Burgos, in addition to the Cathedral, I would also put on your list the Museo de la Evolución Humana.
http://www.museoevolucionhumana.com

In all our wanderings in the Urdaibai, we've never eaten at Remenetxe, so I can't give you a thumbs up or down.

We can highly recommend Zallo Barri in Gernika (both Repsol and Michelin recommended), if you find yourselves in the town to visit the very evocative and highly memorable Peace Museum, which gives you an unforgettable memory of the April, 1937 saturation bombing of the town. Highly recommended!

http://www.museodelapaz.org

The rest of your plan sounds great!

ekscrunchy

Robert I just cannot thank you enough for all of your help. I am in the process of making the reservations..just got a new computer so been very busy setting everything up and learning..will be back soon with more comments...thank you again.

Robert2016

ekscrunchy,
We're now in Albi, headed towards the Pays Basque on 6/30 to spend the entire month of July in our much loved Basque Lands. If you need us to "research" anything for you, just yell.

kimhe

Lucky you, Robert! And I recommend to go and see fabulous double bass player Javier Colina together with flamenco guitarist Josemi Carmona in the San Telmo museum at 12.30 pm on July 25th. Both are outstanding.
http://heinekenjazzaldia.com/es/arti...na-de-cerca-3/
Teaser: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a9y8uHucxxU

Robert2016

Thanks kimhe,
One of the reasons we go to Donosti every year in July is to attend the Jazz festival, so will do!

ekscrunchy

Robert, thank you for your offer to help, as I've run into a small glitch: HOtel Raiz in Roa seems to be closed. No note on if and when they will reopen.


I was planning for that to be my first stop, so if they will still be closed in late October, I will need an alternative for the first night. I could switch around the lunches, making Mannix in Campaspero the first lunch. If I do that, I need a hotel very close to the restaurant. Since we will be driving that morning from the airport, I do not want to have to drive a distance to the restaurant that afternoon. (That is why staying and dining in Roa was such a good idea).

There are some hotels in Penafiel..anything stand out in that area?

Is there anything else you can think of in or near Roa? (I found nothing much online).

Thanks, yet again, and have a fantastic time on your summer ramblings.

Robert2016

Hi ekscrunchy,
We have sent folks to the AF Pesquera in Peñafiel and have dined there several times. Actually we like the food in the restaurant. It's the first hotel project of winemaker Alejandro Fernández of Bodegas Pesquera.
It gets an 8.2 rating on booking.com. Winemakers don't necessarily make good hoteliers. It needs a management company like Marugal (who manage the Viura in Rioja) to make it really shine, but it will certainly do fine for one night.

There's zero in Roa other than Raíz. Roa is a blip in the road.

The distance from yours and my favorite Hospedería de Santo Dolmingo in Pedraza to Campaspero is one hour (north).

But wait....
there's Fuente de la Aceña in Quintanilla de Onésimo, on the Valladolid province of Ribera del Duero, a former mill right at the river's edge. We've stayed there for wine touring in the Ribera del Duero vallisoletana, and it's on the "Golden Mile", just west of Vega Sicilia, the best vineyards in the Ribera del Duero.
It's about a half hour from Campaspero.

We have seen the "flying winemaker", Peter Sisseck and his daughter of Bodegas Pingus, a couple of times dining in the restaurant. It's his home when tending to his winery. It's where he entertains his guests, and his winery (simply a garage) is literally right around the corner. The owners of Vega Sicilia also entertain their guests at Fuente de la Aceña, so the cuisine and wine list are tops. It gets an 8.8 on booking. The ladies at the desk have done a great job for us with organizing wine visits, and the cuisine gets a thumbs up from Repsol.

http://www.fuenteacena.es/index.php/en/

Robert2016

Another option outside of the village of Quintanilla de Onésimo would be the Hotel Arzuaga, a 4-star, right on the highway, on the "Golden Mile". It's large and looks like a roadside hotel-motel. We have a friend who's the marketing director for the winery
Not a quaint Posada Real like the Fuente de la Aceña but a full service hotel. It has a spa facility and indoor pool plus restaurant.
It gets an 8.6 on booking.com

http://www.hotelarzuaga.com

If you were to choose it, you should put the lunch at Mannix in Campaspero first.

ekscrunchy

A welath of information as usual..how can I thank you?

The AF Pesquera does not get the best reviews, as you mentioned, so I passed that by for the moment.

Fuente Acena looks great and they do have a room for that night.

The other one that looks good, and is a bit closer to Campaspero, is Castilla Termal Monasterio de Valbuena. Looks like quite a production in a former monastery. Any thoughts on that one? Looks less personal and more corporate but the reviews are very good,

http://www.castillatermal.com/en/hot...o-de-valbuena/

It does seem a shame that I will be in one of the greatest wine regions in the world and will not take advantage of visiting winteries! But at least I can get a feel for the area on this first, quick visit.

Did not realize that I would be in the Axpe area during a puente. But the hotel near Getaria is booked, and I am waiting to hear from one of the inns in Muxika.
Also booked Maria Cristina for 5 nights.

Robert2016

Hi ekscrunchy,
The AF Pesquera, despite the money put into it, doesn't get great reviews because of service issues. We had high hopes for it, but it isn't delivering the way it should. It's the best of Peñafiel.
Nonetheless, the dining room is well run and we've had nice lunches there.
The castle at Peñafiel, however, is definitely worth a look. Guided tours, but you don't need to follow the guide or spend time in the wine museum.

About Castilla Termal in Valbuena, we haven' toured it yet. It hadn't opened the last time we were in Valbuena to visit the Monastery and the Edades del Hombre. It sits just across the river from Vega Sicilia.
Sorry I didn't mention, it but it was off my radar, so thanks for the tip.

It's well positioned for you for driving to Campaspero, about a 30-minute drive. Rooms look much nicer than Fuente de la Aceña, whose rooms are rather basic (we've stayed there for wine touring).
A great addition to the Ribera del Duero lodging scene, I hope. And the prices are extremely reasonable.
Yes, book it.

Just do Mannix on the first day and Nazareno on your second, on the way to Burgos.
That makes more sense anyway.

ekscrunchy

Thanks, again, Robert.

Next glitch is that both of the hotels in Muxika require two nights' stay on my dates. I am looking only for one night, the last Saturday in October. I tried ranging further away, but it seems as if all of the smaller rural spots want a minimum of two nights.

So what do you suggest, keeping in mind that I will be arriving from Burgos and heading for Axpe the following day for lunch. I've written to the GranHotel Durango so far, but perhaps there is a better option near a good place to have dinner. Remenexte looked awfully good, near Muxika!!