annhig

thanks, Lin, I'll try to find it.

I have also discovered that there is an institucion Sorolla which I've got on my list!

TDudette

Thanks again to all. annhig, I can't wait to read your TR! Yes, lin, Sorolla's daughter Elena's work is nice. Another artist previously unknown to me.

London has provided more hints:

25. To turn on the shower, you must first turn off the bath faucet in my room in the Strand Palace Hotel. The outer part of the shower’s escutcheon is the turn-on wheel. Point the showerhead toward the wall first or you will have a small flood.

26. The laundry near the Strand Palace Hotel is on Betterton Street. With your back to the hotel, take a left on the Strand, a left on Wellington and walk for about 15 minutes. You will pass a ballerina statue. For an extra wash and fold fee, you can leave your laundry. Service took about 2 hours and is close enough to Covent Gardens for a good stroll in that area whilst waiting.

27. Google New Row for list of pubs, hotels and plays. Looks like a great area.

28. Liberty (so probably others) will help you fill out your VAT refund form. You can turn it in at airport or send it (I presume while you’re still in Europe) in the postage already paid envelope.

29. Always eat when you can.

30. Always use the loo when you can. They are often on a lower level without a lift. Be aware if stairs are a problem for you.

31. One can eat and drink in the London Theatres I visited. £2,50 for a bottled water at one. Floors were covered with trash after. Tsk Tsk.

TDudette

Day 6
Tuesday 22 April 2104
60s and overcast

Meals:

Breaksfast: At hotel: The buffet contains good selections of fruits, meats, sausage and breads. The eggs were a bit problematic. There were HB, perfectly consistently round fried (?), and a serving dish of scrambled that looked almost grey and runny. I took the perfectly consistently round fried, a croissant, watermelon and OJ. A pot of coffee with cold milk provided at my table. It was good but not like that Nepresso in Madrid. I signed for my room.

Lunch: La Ballerina, 20 Bow St.—A river trout (entire salmon-colored fish plus carrots, potatoes and broccoli) with almond sauce (in such a big bowl, I thought it was soup!) and glass of house red is quite good. £18,50 total

Dinner is snacks: Jamie’s: Spinach & Taleggio croquettes, £4,75 are on a bed of basil and some sort of mayo and are quite pasty tasting inside. House red is £5,10.
KFC: drumstick and a bottle of water. £?—not much though and tasty.


“Jersey Boys”, Laundry and Covent Gardens on the agenda, but..

Forgot to mention that upon returning to the room last evening, I got the unwelcome news that watching the telly would cost an additional £20! It’s so much fun to watch TV in other countries that I was quite bummed. Oh well, radio was free so I got my fill of talk and classical music when I was in the room. Had trouble getting <i>specific</i> weather details for London though.

The bath is one of those huge guys that requires good climbing skills. I had to call room service to get shower turned on and to let them know I’d gotten all towels wet (see hints). Down to check out my first English breakfast since 1995.

Back to room to brush everything and gather dirty clothes. I have 2 bags; one for dirty and one for clean. Yesterday, Sen showed me the closest self-service laundry so I take myself there and enjoy passing the Royal Opera House, a theatre showing “Lion King” and several spots that might suit for breakfast.

At Bow Court, sits a lovely statue of a ballerina by Sculptor Enzo Plazzotta so I sit next to her as she ties her slipper. Googling her led me to the following and I had to laugh about people knitting leg warmers for her:

https://suite.io/gail-mangold-vine/2dcg2p0

I find the laundry precisely where Sen said it would be (hey, not everyone is good with directions) and find that for £3,00 more, I can leave it. It will take about 2 hours which would be plenty of time for me to stroll Covent Gardens and return for pick up.

The weather is in the 60s but humid. It’s a short walk to Covent Gardens and it is as I remember it. I stop at Quotidien (in honor of my DC pals) for a cappuccino and a sit and hear singers outside. A small group with guy singing Figaro’s solo in the Barber. Lots of fun. I’d passed a nice tea store on the Strand last night and see that it is a chain (Whittard).

I keep walking and find myself on New Row (‘new’ is relative—1860s) passing White Swan Tavern (did Dorothy Sayers actually visit there?), The Round House, Hardy’s Original Sweet Shop and others. In my notes is “Carve Her Name with Pride--Odette” and I think it was a title for a movie showing but am not sure.

Suddenly, I realize I’m near Regent Street so grab a cab to Liberty.

Liberty prints have been in my lexicon since high school when one wore penny weejun (sp?) loafers, bonnie doone socks, kilts, sweaters with gros grain ribbon and liberty print shirts or shorts. It calls to me louder than Harrods or Selfridges. Oh, can you feel those ashes quivering?!

http://www.liberty.co.uk/AboutLibert...le/fcp-content

Straight to the fabric department with my hand on my heart as I pass bolt after bolt of cotton lawn. I've owned some of such good quality that it doesn’t need to be ironed. “They’re lovely aren’t they?” says my new friend Frankie. He has added a Liberty print to the collar, placket and cuffs of his white shirt (“We must wear black and white”) and it looks wonderful.

He shows me a book about Liberty’s history and did I know that the wood work is from a ship on which Mr. Liberty sailed? True? I buy 4 metres of a fabric designed by William Morris in the early 1900s and will order the book online. If you study the Arts and Crafts movement, the name Liberty should come up.

Frankie sends me to 2nd (?) floor to complete the VAT refund form (see hints). And it’s time for pick up laundry. I grab another cab, pay for my clothes and stroll back down Wellington St. Lunch is at La Ballerina (they don’t know the significance of the statue).

Back to the hotel, I ask a passing clerk where I can mail my VAT refund post and she kindly takes it. In the room, I arrange clothes, check email and freshen up. Out the door again and taxi to the Picadilly Theatre. Thank goodness for Sen’s marking the theatre on the map as cabbie was so sure I was wrong about the location, that he called it in. Sen is vindicated.

The theatre is on a cute little one-way street behind the circus. It is also opposite Jamie’s (that’s Jamie Oliver if you follow chefs) and I’ll grab a drink there later. I just googled the address and see it’s one of many.

Jamie's Italian, Piccadilly
17-19 Denman Street,
London

Into the theatre after about a 10 minute wait. Colors are dark green with gold decorations. It’s nice. “Jersey Boys” is very well done. Even if you aren’t a fan of Frankie Valli’s music (which I’m not), I’d recommend this bio of his musical life.

Out the door and across the street for a pre-dinner snack. They put this pudgy gray by a window and the service is lovely. My spot affords a great view of the world.

So I think I should try to walk back to the Strand and find a place to eat along the way. I pass the Duke of Wales Theatre with its “Book of Mormon” marquis inviting. A trip to the ticket office says there are 2 seats left so I grab one in a very good orchestre seat. I’m sure to find the box of DH’s ashes on the floor.

There are about 20 minutes before doors open so I go across the street and to a busy KFC for dinner. Which would be worse? Growling stomach or fast food breath?

As I have mentioned to many people (including Fodorites), I would love to have the authors of “Book of Mormon” to dinner but wouldn’t want to date them! It was one of the raunchiest plays I’ve ever seen. My love of the quirky made me enjoy just about all of this show, but I could see how some of it’s “boys not yet grown up” humor could offend mightily!

I <i>was</i> offended at all the trash on the floor. Grabbed a cab to hotel, snagged a wine in the lounge and took it to my room to read and crash.

A super day!

bilboburgler

TDuddette, I really like your report, keep it going.

I just chatted to the Strand Palace Hotel and they deny there is a charge for watching TV. They have a nice little click button for chatting to their info guys on their webpage. Any ideas??? It is just so unusual I have to know the details

lincasanova

Probably was a charge for unlimited movies or special channels?

annhig

TD - in one day you have covered many of my old london haunts - Bow Street, the site of the oldest magistrate's court in London, [now a hotel] Marlborough Street, where there used to be a court as well, just north of liberty's, where Richard Branson's dad used to sit, [also a hotel ] and Wellington Street where there is STILL a court I believe.

Happy days!

latedaytraveler

TD, what a day - two plays! Good for you. You really got around and accomplished so much. As I mentioned to you before, my very liberal friend was shocked at the language and antics in BOOK OF MORMON.

Unfortunately my tolerance for live theater is very limited - odd, I know. I saw a well reviewed performance of LES MIZ in Boston years ago - thought it would never end.

But I might try a show when I return to London in June since there are so many theater options in the area of the Strand. Sorry about the snafu regarding the TV. There was no charge on my past visits and I enjoyed a large selection of channels - but not movies or "adult" selections. I also had the LONDON TIMES delivered to my door every day which I really enjoyed but hardly ever finished.

You must be very adept at hailing those London cabs by now. Looking forward to more...

marigross

Hi TD! Loving your report. Madrid is fabulous indeed.

TDudette

lateday, I found the seats fairly uncomfortable in all 3 places. If the performance is good enough, I can be transported. That usually happens more in books though. BTW, "Ghosts of Spain" arrived and I've finished the first chapter where he discusses the things unspoken about Franco's takeover. How sad, but the author's love of Spain shines through right away. Thanks for the suggestion. Frankly, I found Les Miz long also.

I remember that court building, ann, but it looked deserted--not sure. Wish we'd been able to meet! Although I do believe the spirits of DH and his sainted father guided my walks, it would have been fun with someone familiar with the area.

I don't know, bilboburgler. I used the remote to turn on the TV and there was a list of options. TV was one but whenever I clicked on it, it went to the "Spring Special £19,95". Since radio is fine with me also, I didn't explore further or complain. Glad you checked into it.

Thanks to all for kind words.

Here are the next hints:

32. The 87 bus, not the 6 as shown on Google Directions, is the bus from Strand to Tate Britain. I have alerted google folks.

33. There is a free shuttle boat between Tate Britain and Tate Modern.

TDudette

Day 7
Day 7
Wednesday 23 April 2014
Sunny and warm 70s

Meals:
Breakfast: Pop next door to “Diva” for good caffee latte and OK croissant for £2,90.

Lunch: Whistler’s at Tate Britain: Brown trout with almond sauce. Unlike yesterday’s whole fish, this is a fillet on a bed of greens with small potatoes on the side. Cheese sampler for dessert is nice with brie with apple chutney, Sharpham gouda and Barkham bleu. They were served with very good 6-sided, unsalted, quite flat crackers--£34,31 for 2-course (subtract drinks from this), Caffe latte--£2,50 and House red--£4,5.

Dinner: Paul; Small Croque Forestier (had mushrooms—very good)-- £4,30 and caffee latte--£2,50 are good.

Used the auto wake-up call successfully, and a person also called. I dawdled with email and reading before catching the bus for the Tate Britain.

Upon double-checking with driver, I am told the 6 bus does not go to the Tate so I hop off and look at the convenient map at the stop and it shows that the 87 is the one. So it comes and I ask and he says yes. With no pride whatsoever, I ask, “Is anyone going to the Tate?” and a very kind gentleman said he’d advise me of the stop. He mentions that he and his family traveled to the U.S. and was always grateful to people who helped him and glad to do it for a visitor to his country.

The Tate Britain (“TB”) was just The Tate before major renovations spun off the Tate Modern (“TM”). The building is beautiful and although huge, nicely laid out. Wooden floors make walking a dream and the walls are gray and unobtrusive. If you google founder Henry Tate, you can learn more about him. He seemed like a nice person.

Passing two amazing abstract structures (see photo “TateBJuxtaposition”), I am shown the way to Prints and Drawing rooms where I have an appointment to see two Sargent sketches. My late DH approves that I am early but the curators do not so I kill time in the nearby William Blake room. He lived from 1757-1827 and, in addition to the written works we studied in Brit Lit, did printmaking and painting.

The Sargent papers were 2 simple pencil sketches but he signed them. I wondered why but the young woman who brought them to me didn’t know. Unfortunately, there were no accompanying notes.

Back to the main exhibits, I linger through the Constables and Turners and am amazed at a large nude by the latter. Also, it was written that Turner did most of his final works inside and worked in batches.

From here it’s a beeline to the Sargent’s. His “Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose” is a favorite and is there. Then a slow savoring stroll through art from the 1500s to today. I pass a Munnings that is nice and I mentally nod to Dick Francis for introducing me to him in one of his books. Tissot’s “Holyday” calls out also. Another Sorolla.

I’m interviewed by an art student doing a survey. “Why are you here?” “John Singer Sargent.” At noon, I take a lunch break and purchase tickets for Matisse at TM. Walk some more after lunch and get a cute shot of 2 boys in a room filled with Moore sculptures.

Her my notes say I’ve seen many Pret a Manger restos. DH and I had a nice sandwich at one in NYC—I hadn’t realized it’s such a big chain.

Bus back to hotel and I stop at the computer room to map out bus routes to Tate Modern, Wallace and Saatchi. I had totally forgotten to ask about the boat shuttle between the 2 Tates but don't think I could have done both galleries in one day! Decided to take a nap and then play the evening by ear.

I awake at 6 (using the auto phone wakeup) and put on my pretty shoes and clean clothes. I had passed signs for “Handbagged” at the Vaudeville every day and thought it looked like it might be funny. So I walked in and got another good ticket (much cheaper than “Mormon”) for 7:30.

I spot a hole in the wall place called Paul where I can point to small serving and get it quickly.

“Handbagged” is about Margaret Thatcher, with her relationship with the Queen as a subtext. Actors portraying a young and an old version of each woman are on the stage throughout and their repartee is handled quite cleverly. Two other actors are the Queen’s butler and Dennis Thatcher and they take on all of the other roles (including Nancy Reagan-very funny).

Except for a few MPs whose names weren’t readily familiar to me, I was able to enjoy this show thoroughly. Vaudeville theatre has a gorgeous red cupola. BTW, I Kindled while waiting for the curtain to rise and asked the person next to me if the screen bothered him (not a bad pickup line, eh?). We started chatting and he said that he lost many of his UK rights when he sold him home and moved to one of its protectorates.

He gave me his e-dress but we parted company after the show. “I’m going in this direction, TDude—and you?”

Another lovely day.

TDudette

Hint from Day 8:

34. Museums may have not entrance fees, but special exhibits will have a charge. £16.30 for Matisse.


Day 8
Thursday, 24 April 2014
Overcast and cool


Meals: Breakfast in the hotel same as always. It was so busy this a.m. that I had to find a wait person to pay. I could have stiffed them easily.

Lunch: Simpsons in the Strand: Roast of Rib of Scottish Beef--£31 was accompanied with a nice olive bread, roasted potatoes, a huge Yorkshire pudding and a small copper pot with meh “savory” cabbage.

Dinner: 2 Glasses of wine and peanuts at hotel bar.

The room has interior wooden shutters that are attractive and utilitarian. Opening them to say hello to morning, I’m dismayed to see only gray in the sky and wet pavers on the ground.

Cabbed to Tate Modern and am glad I did. It looked like 2 busses and some walking. By the way, I used my compass often on this trip. On my strolls, I knew my desired direction and checked it to make certain I was still on course. Leaving Liberty on Tuesday, it kept me from going the wrong way.

TM is in an old power station with an appropriately modern look. If you google it, you will read of the contest for architects for its rebuilding. Its concrete floors and somewhat convoluted floor plan didn’t appeal to me but that’s not important. My entry time is noon and the times are pretty strictly enforced.

As usual, I walk and note things that appeal. The names Dorothea Tanning, Maria da Silva, Brancusi and, ta da, good ole Kandinsky are in my notes. Wiki suggests that Kandinsky may have been the first authentic abstract artist.

Still early for Matisse, I grab a coffee and a brownie at one of the 2 cafés and admire the view along the Seine and wonder if Ms. Tanning was inspired by Bosch. I make a note to tell my neighbor to keep her found art scupture.

The Matisse Cutouts are very interesting. Most produced from a wheelchair-bound artist, they are colorful, balanced and childlike. Some were room-sized! A copy of a stained-glass church window was also there and nice. The wall taken from his home in Vence was my favorite. I’ll try to find a google of it. Label said that a wealthy person tried to buy the wall to put in his yacht but Matisse refused.

Actually knowing what was going on with an artist makes his/her works more attractive to me. His or her notes or interviews are important. If a curator or critic, however well-informed, makes unsubstantiated pronouncements I am often left cold. Note to self: study Matisse’s earlier works.

There are cabs lined up outside and I take one instead of taking the attractive pedestrian bridge pointing toward St. Paul’s. Lunch today will be at Simpson’s just to say I ate there. The following link gives you a look at the gorgeous room where I ate:

http://www.simpsonsinthestrand.co.uk/restaurant.php

The link doesn’t do justice to the spaciousness of the proportions. It doesn’t show the fresh flowers or silver vases and salt and pepper shakes. It doesn't do justice to the lovely service. Nor can it describe or admit that my Strand Palace similar dinner was tastier at almost half the price. I’m still glad I went there.

Since it’s close, I decide to give Courtauld a try. As I stroll, fatigue hits so I go back to the hotel to rest up. I pass a Pizza Express with a sign for gluten-free pizza and then Lyceum Tavern across the street also has GF options. If you have Celiac’s, you know that even airborne crumbs of wheat can be problematic, so go carefully. GF cooking reminds me of Kosher a bit—only GF pans and utensils should be used. Separate toasters are a must.

A nap until around 7 and I go to the bar for a shiraz and some nuts. It’s packed but a single gal invites me to join her. She is busily doing computer work and chatting on phone with a colleague. When the lights start flickering, she puts away her childish (my stream of consciousness—please ignore) things.

We end up talking for about 2 hours. She is from the Isle of Man and confirms what my theatre partner said about losing rights if one sells his home and moves outside UK proper. If anyone can clarify, please do so. The U.S. protectorates like Puerto Rico have similar issues but I don’t have specifics to offer here.

Back to the room with another email address and I crash. Another good day but I’m getting excited about going home. I wake up hungry about 1 a.m. so sneak down the hall in my jammies and jacket and get a bag of potato chips from a vending machine. I turn to find a very scary lady standing behind me. She says, "I can make you a peanut butter and jelly." I thank her as politely as possible and make my getaway.

TDudette

Don't know why I wrote 'Seine' instead of 'Thames' above.

latedaytraveler

Hi again TD,

Glad you are enjoying GHOSTS OF SPAIN. When I was in Spain in 2000, I toured Franco's Valley of the Fallen monument, a huge outdoor "national act of atonement" (but actually his tomb and tribute to himself). I believe it has since been closed or restricted - too painful and controversial. It's sad history is recounted in the book.

But on to happier days. Thanks for suggesting Bus 87 going to the Tate Britain. That will be one of my first destinations. Where did you catch the bus from? Presume it goes through Trafalgar Square. Did you buy an Oyster card? I will.

Enjoyed your description of the TB. If I may ask, why did you want to examine the Sargent writings? Smart of you to have arranged that ahead. The collection sounds wonderful. BTW, your favorite “Carnation, Lily, Lily, Rose” had pride of place at a fabulous Sargent water color exhibit at the MFA in Boston not long ago. It was smashing. Most of Sargent's water colors are smaller than his oils because he painted them outdoors.

You were wise not to attempt seeing both Tates in one day. That TB lunch was a bit pricey, eh? But worth it I am sure. I have tickets for the Matisse including a tour at a midday in June. Hope it's not toooo crowded.I expect to go by boat to the TM from Embankment.

Wonderful to treat yourself at Simpson's - right across the street, right? I commend you for your solo dining adventures. Mine are much more modest. "Handbagged" sound interesting. I really enjoyed "Iron Lady" some years back.

Will follow along to the end...

TDudette

Thanks, lateday!

Spain's regionalism is being addressed in the chapter I've just started. One sees this everywhere. Even in our little state of Maryland, the once geographically remote Eastern Shore still has folks who want to become their own state!

I caught the 87 at the bus stand just across the street from Strand Palace Hotel. Yes, it went through T. Square. Because I know I'd be taking cabs, I didn't buy a fare card. Using just busses, I think that pass would have been sufficient. Stairs can be a problem for me so I ruled out the Tube from the git go.

While TB was being renovated, the National Gallery of Art (NGA) in D.C. had a huge Sargent exhibit. They borrowed from TB, the Gardiner and others and I was gobsmacked by his works. I was in tears each of the 3 times I visited it. So, I wanted to visit as many venues as possible. The Boston Public Library has murals of his, FYI. In pre-planning, I noticed that one could make an appointment to see the papers of various artists so I did. Thought there might be notes.

I'm looking forward to your TR about the two Tates and response to the Matisse. And the boat ride.

Thanks for hanging in there!

TDudette

Oops, and yes, Simpsons is right across the street from hotel also. What I spent for lunches was in reality what I might have spent for big dinners, so the splurges could have been worse. Thanks for your kind words, TDu

annhig

She is from the Isle of Man and confirms what my theatre partner said about losing rights if one sells his home and moves outside UK proper. If anyone can clarify, please do so.>>

rights to what, exactly? you don't lose your british citizenship, or your passport if you move abroad, nor your right to reside in the UK, though you may lose the right to claim some social security benefits if you move back, until you can re-establish that you are domiciled here. I think that you DO lose your right to vote except in european elections.

if you are retired, whether you receive increases in your pension in the same way that you would have done depends upon where you retire to - the Isle of Man may be one of the places where pensioners do mot receive automatic increases.

enjoying the trip report very much, TD. We went to see a big exhibition of Turner many years ago at the Tate, [when it was the only one] but I don't remember any nudes!

latedaytraveler

Hi again TD,

You wrote: "Stairs can be a problem for me so I ruled out the Tube from the git go." That was a very smart idea. The stairs can be horrendous. Did you buy your bus ticket at one of those kiosks on the street?

I only started using the Tube after three short visits to London. But since I plan to be there for ten days in June, I expect to use it often. However, I want to watch my step very carefully though. I tripped and broke my wrist a few years back and had to fly home from Edinburg. It wasn't pretty - and that was at 10 in the morning on a clear sidewalk!

I know that I will never get to everything I am planning, but the Tates are a priority. You have done well to cover so much. Today I booked a tour of some villages in the Cotswolds where Downton Abbey is filmed (not Highclere itself), that also includes with a visit to Blenheim, the ancestral home of Winston Churchill, which I have always wanted to visit. It's my only foray outside of London this time.

Since you are such a Sargent aficionado, I suggest reading (if you haven't already done so) David McCullough's THE GREATER JOURNEY, Americans in Paris 1830-1900 which has a great section on Sargent and those artists he interacted with in those halcyon days in the late 19th century.

Hi Annhig, I also plan to stroll through those hallowed law courts and the Temple...

Leely2

Your midnight snack misadventure gave me quite a laugh-- and you quite the scare momentarily, it seems. Thanks again for sharing your trip.

annhig

ldt - if you get to the Temple at lunchtime, you can stroll through Inner Temple Gardens, and even eat your sandwiches there. a lovely thing to do on a sunny day. The gardens are open from 12-3pm on weekdays, I think.

jent103

Oh my - that PB&J offer sounds like quite an experience! Really enjoying hearing about your trip.

I've never made it to Liberty but it's on my list for this trip. My mother used to be an excellent seamstress (she has some health issues which mean she doesn't sew much at all anymore); I didn't pick up that gene, but would love to see the store. Do you happen to know if photos are allowed inside? Mom would love to see the fabrics, but I've gotten in trouble before.