MADRID AND GRANADA--A Magical Winter Week in Spain
Jan 21st, 2011, 12:15 PM
#41
hi ek,
we were only in the park during the day, when mounted police were on patrol.
we never felt the need to ask for their help, I'm pleased to say. my recollection is that quite a lot of the hedges were "cloud pruned" but we were lucky enough to be there during daytime!
we were only in the park during the day, when mounted police were on patrol.
we never felt the need to ask for their help, I'm pleased to say. my recollection is that quite a lot of the hedges were "cloud pruned" but we were lucky enough to be there during daytime!
Jan 21st, 2011, 03:34 PM
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great article on the pimenton! did you pack it in your suitcase then? or carry it on the plane with you?
it's fun to come and read another episode each day so no worries from my perspective on your report. I kinda wish I had done mine that way. Instead, I spent many days that turned into several months before I finally posted my report of our two week adventure in Spain last May. either way is good methinks. can't wait to read more!
it's fun to come and read another episode each day so no worries from my perspective on your report. I kinda wish I had done mine that way. Instead, I spent many days that turned into several months before I finally posted my report of our two week adventure in Spain last May. either way is good methinks. can't wait to read more!
Jan 22nd, 2011, 10:31 AM
#43
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Tobyo thanks so much! I packed the pimenton with no problem. I use often; it is especially good with eggs or potatoes.
I also warm it in olive oil to make a topping for a sort of bruschetta-type concoction composed of toasted, good bread topped with sauteed bitter greens and melted smoked mozzarella (or regular mozzarella, or any scamorza-type cheese). (Put the greens on the toasted bread and then melt cheese over the top and drizzle the oil for the final touch; you can have a few of these with a good salad for a light dinner)
Here is a bit more:
We devoted the first part of the next day to the Barrio Salamanca. After breakfast, we set off from the hotel on a walk of about 15 minutes that brought us to the center of this upscale neighborhood. Salamanca is famous as a mecca for high-end shopping. We stopped into the Calle Serrano flagship of Loewe, for a quick browse. Although we probably did not look like standard bearers for this legendary Spanish leather house, we received a very warm welcome. I took a quick peek at the shoe collection which included a violet-hued pair draped with fur along the entire 5-inch span of the stiletto heel. My partner commented that the look was not really me (??!) so we moved on to admire some of the clothes including a caramel colored straight skirt with leather-covered buttons in a café au lait color. Now, we are talking! The handbag collection is divine as well.
The trouble is that with such a short time in the city, and with a partner who has zero interest in shopping for clothing, and even less for designer clothing, I could not devote any serious time to shopping. We did move on to the Serrano branch of contemporary Catalan shoemaker, Camper, where the sales in full swing. Yet another reason to visit Spain in January!
http://www.loewe.com/
http://www.camper.com/
Salamanca may be famous for designer shops but for me it was the architecture that was the real magnet. This grid of tree-lined blocks lined with glorious examples of 19th and 20th-century architecture was designated an upscale residential neighborhood by the Marquis of Salamanca, a former minister of finance who founded the precursor to the Bank of Spain. If you think that Salamanca is just about shopping, please take a walk through this beautiful area, just to admire the streetscape.
Salamanca is also home (each neighborhood has its own public market) the beautiful Mercado de la Paz, on Calle Ayala. The lacy iron-and-glass coverd market was designed in the late-19th Century by Gustave Eiffel (of Tower fame), and today individual stalls showcase an abundance of epicurean fare ranging from hams and cheeses to fresh fruit and vegetables to fresh meats and seafood. Next time we really should rent an apartment so that I can putter around in the kitchen with all these marvelous raw materials!
I could only leer at the fresh items, while confining my purchasing, with great difficulty, to dried staples. I bought a kilo of Bomba rice for a friend who has spent countless summer evenings in pursuit of paella perfection; from Murcia, Bomba rice is reputed to be the finest rice for paella. For myself, I bought a few bags of dried beans for at the same stall near the front entrance to the market. That stall offered two types of the famous beans from Tolosa, red and black, and the vendor offered that the red ones cooked up more creamy than the black. Not sure why I did not buy both varieties, but the scanty space in my suitcase was certainly a limiting factor!
For more information, see:
http://www.tienda.com/food/products/be-05.html
I am sorry that I forgot to purchase some of the tiny Pardina lentils. I have already begun a new shopping list!
From the Mercado de la Paz, we ambled along the leafy streets to the Salamanca branch of El Corte Ingles to browse the basement food section and to stock up on our supply of Tortas de Aceite for in-room snacks.
And then it was on, past the Plaza de Colon, where a nearby pair of the city’s tallest buildings, the Torres de Colon, with futuristic green crowns that look like electrical plugs have earned the name “el enchufe,” or “the plug.”
http://www.absolutmadrid.com/las-torres-de-colon/
We passed from Salamanca to the edge of trendy Chueca, and strolled south along Calle de Hortaleza to the corner of Calle Mejia Lequerza where a 19th Century building at #1 houses the Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero, a cozy shop where the shelves are lined of glass bottles and metal tins filled with more than a hundred prime examples of some of the finest Spanish oils from each of the olive-producing regions of the country from Extremadura to Andalucia. They take their oil very seriously here, so do not enter expecting a simple list of “the best,” any more than you could expect this at a wine shop.
http://www.pco.es/
The capable young man who waited on us more or less told us that it was futile for him to recommend one variety or another and that it depended on my own taste and that I really needed to buy a small amount of oil, use it at home, and then return with my comments and from there, we would proceed in a search to find the best oils for my table. Because I had not yet abandoned the idea of returning with carry-on luggage only (this would take another day or two), I ended up purchasing only a small a tin of Fuenroble from Jaen (7.30euro for a 250 ml tin) , which was recommended based on my taste for the Gata Hurdes oil that I often use in my kitchen at home. So my best advice is, if you want to buy here, bring along a list of olive oils that you have used before and enjoyed.
From there, we walked south and west, ambling through the part of Chueca and the edge of Malasansa, along Calle Fuencarral. This was an admittedly half-hearted stab at visiting both of these neighborhoods but the peek that we did get did not inspire me to spend much more time there, given our short visit to the city. I am sure we missed the more enticing parts of these areas and will return when I have more time in Madrid, which will hopefully not be too far in the future.
After all this walking, we felt in need of a small snack, so we continued south, crossing the Gran Via, along Calle Montrera, the continuation of Calle Fuencarral that appears to be a center of what my father would call the “hot-sheet trade.” The ladies of the night were out in full force here even in the early afternoon.
Our destination was Café San Gines, the more-than-a-century-old chocolateria spot which we thought was known to each and every Madrileno. Apparently there is at least one policeman who was late to learn about this legendary café because when we asked him to point the way, he looked blank and turned to his friend, who responded, “oh, I think that is that chocolate place.”
We finally found San Gines, near the church of the same name, tucked off a narrow passageway leading off the pedestrian Calle del Arenal a few steps from the Joy Eslava (Joy Slave) disco (!) The cream and forest green front room, sheathed with marble, mirrors, and ceramic tile and adorned with glossy photos of celebrity clientele, was virtually empty when we visited, save for a table or two of locals and another of Japanese tourists. Service was pleasant and swift, and within a few minutes we were dunking or hot churros into white cups of luscious molten chocolate. (7.80 euro for two cups of chocolate and one order of churros).
Delightful and well worth the price. Do not miss this place; it is open most of the day.
From there, we dragged ourselves back to the hotel and took a short rest before heading out to the Prado at 6pm to take advantage of the free entry offered between 6 and 8pm on weekdays. This time we concentrated on Goya, with forays to the Flemish masters and another visit to the Bosch room. We were there until closing, when we once again stopped briefly at the hotel before heading out on what had become a familiar walk, east through Retiro park, to our appointed restaurant of the evening, Taberna Laredo, at 14, Calle Menorca. This meal would prove to be one of the best of the week.
I also warm it in olive oil to make a topping for a sort of bruschetta-type concoction composed of toasted, good bread topped with sauteed bitter greens and melted smoked mozzarella (or regular mozzarella, or any scamorza-type cheese). (Put the greens on the toasted bread and then melt cheese over the top and drizzle the oil for the final touch; you can have a few of these with a good salad for a light dinner)
Here is a bit more:
We devoted the first part of the next day to the Barrio Salamanca. After breakfast, we set off from the hotel on a walk of about 15 minutes that brought us to the center of this upscale neighborhood. Salamanca is famous as a mecca for high-end shopping. We stopped into the Calle Serrano flagship of Loewe, for a quick browse. Although we probably did not look like standard bearers for this legendary Spanish leather house, we received a very warm welcome. I took a quick peek at the shoe collection which included a violet-hued pair draped with fur along the entire 5-inch span of the stiletto heel. My partner commented that the look was not really me (??!) so we moved on to admire some of the clothes including a caramel colored straight skirt with leather-covered buttons in a café au lait color. Now, we are talking! The handbag collection is divine as well.
The trouble is that with such a short time in the city, and with a partner who has zero interest in shopping for clothing, and even less for designer clothing, I could not devote any serious time to shopping. We did move on to the Serrano branch of contemporary Catalan shoemaker, Camper, where the sales in full swing. Yet another reason to visit Spain in January!
http://www.loewe.com/
http://www.camper.com/
Salamanca may be famous for designer shops but for me it was the architecture that was the real magnet. This grid of tree-lined blocks lined with glorious examples of 19th and 20th-century architecture was designated an upscale residential neighborhood by the Marquis of Salamanca, a former minister of finance who founded the precursor to the Bank of Spain. If you think that Salamanca is just about shopping, please take a walk through this beautiful area, just to admire the streetscape.
Salamanca is also home (each neighborhood has its own public market) the beautiful Mercado de la Paz, on Calle Ayala. The lacy iron-and-glass coverd market was designed in the late-19th Century by Gustave Eiffel (of Tower fame), and today individual stalls showcase an abundance of epicurean fare ranging from hams and cheeses to fresh fruit and vegetables to fresh meats and seafood. Next time we really should rent an apartment so that I can putter around in the kitchen with all these marvelous raw materials!
I could only leer at the fresh items, while confining my purchasing, with great difficulty, to dried staples. I bought a kilo of Bomba rice for a friend who has spent countless summer evenings in pursuit of paella perfection; from Murcia, Bomba rice is reputed to be the finest rice for paella. For myself, I bought a few bags of dried beans for at the same stall near the front entrance to the market. That stall offered two types of the famous beans from Tolosa, red and black, and the vendor offered that the red ones cooked up more creamy than the black. Not sure why I did not buy both varieties, but the scanty space in my suitcase was certainly a limiting factor!
For more information, see:
http://www.tienda.com/food/products/be-05.html
I am sorry that I forgot to purchase some of the tiny Pardina lentils. I have already begun a new shopping list!
From the Mercado de la Paz, we ambled along the leafy streets to the Salamanca branch of El Corte Ingles to browse the basement food section and to stock up on our supply of Tortas de Aceite for in-room snacks.
And then it was on, past the Plaza de Colon, where a nearby pair of the city’s tallest buildings, the Torres de Colon, with futuristic green crowns that look like electrical plugs have earned the name “el enchufe,” or “the plug.”
http://www.absolutmadrid.com/las-torres-de-colon/
We passed from Salamanca to the edge of trendy Chueca, and strolled south along Calle de Hortaleza to the corner of Calle Mejia Lequerza where a 19th Century building at #1 houses the Patrimonio Comunal Olivarero, a cozy shop where the shelves are lined of glass bottles and metal tins filled with more than a hundred prime examples of some of the finest Spanish oils from each of the olive-producing regions of the country from Extremadura to Andalucia. They take their oil very seriously here, so do not enter expecting a simple list of “the best,” any more than you could expect this at a wine shop.
http://www.pco.es/
The capable young man who waited on us more or less told us that it was futile for him to recommend one variety or another and that it depended on my own taste and that I really needed to buy a small amount of oil, use it at home, and then return with my comments and from there, we would proceed in a search to find the best oils for my table. Because I had not yet abandoned the idea of returning with carry-on luggage only (this would take another day or two), I ended up purchasing only a small a tin of Fuenroble from Jaen (7.30euro for a 250 ml tin) , which was recommended based on my taste for the Gata Hurdes oil that I often use in my kitchen at home. So my best advice is, if you want to buy here, bring along a list of olive oils that you have used before and enjoyed.
From there, we walked south and west, ambling through the part of Chueca and the edge of Malasansa, along Calle Fuencarral. This was an admittedly half-hearted stab at visiting both of these neighborhoods but the peek that we did get did not inspire me to spend much more time there, given our short visit to the city. I am sure we missed the more enticing parts of these areas and will return when I have more time in Madrid, which will hopefully not be too far in the future.
After all this walking, we felt in need of a small snack, so we continued south, crossing the Gran Via, along Calle Montrera, the continuation of Calle Fuencarral that appears to be a center of what my father would call the “hot-sheet trade.” The ladies of the night were out in full force here even in the early afternoon.
Our destination was Café San Gines, the more-than-a-century-old chocolateria spot which we thought was known to each and every Madrileno. Apparently there is at least one policeman who was late to learn about this legendary café because when we asked him to point the way, he looked blank and turned to his friend, who responded, “oh, I think that is that chocolate place.”
We finally found San Gines, near the church of the same name, tucked off a narrow passageway leading off the pedestrian Calle del Arenal a few steps from the Joy Eslava (Joy Slave) disco (!) The cream and forest green front room, sheathed with marble, mirrors, and ceramic tile and adorned with glossy photos of celebrity clientele, was virtually empty when we visited, save for a table or two of locals and another of Japanese tourists. Service was pleasant and swift, and within a few minutes we were dunking or hot churros into white cups of luscious molten chocolate. (7.80 euro for two cups of chocolate and one order of churros).
Delightful and well worth the price. Do not miss this place; it is open most of the day.
From there, we dragged ourselves back to the hotel and took a short rest before heading out to the Prado at 6pm to take advantage of the free entry offered between 6 and 8pm on weekdays. This time we concentrated on Goya, with forays to the Flemish masters and another visit to the Bosch room. We were there until closing, when we once again stopped briefly at the hotel before heading out on what had become a familiar walk, east through Retiro park, to our appointed restaurant of the evening, Taberna Laredo, at 14, Calle Menorca. This meal would prove to be one of the best of the week.
Jan 22nd, 2011, 07:00 PM
#46
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and she leaves us hangin' to read about that great meal! 
I love all the food descriptions. I may have to check out those handbags tho not sure how much shopping I'll be getting done for much the same reason. hubby and I have talked about separating for a bit here and there so we can do our own things. and yes, San Gines is a MUST!! we're staying fairly close to there and plan to stop in most likely more than once
I love all the food descriptions. I may have to check out those handbags tho not sure how much shopping I'll be getting done for much the same reason. hubby and I have talked about separating for a bit here and there so we can do our own things. and yes, San Gines is a MUST!! we're staying fairly close to there and plan to stop in most likely more than once
Jan 23rd, 2011, 07:58 AM
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Sumiko: We found that there was a short line (maybe 30 people, maximum) at 6pm on weekdays, when the free window begins. But by 6:10, there was no line at all. Entrance during the week at the free time is through the main entrance faces north toward the Ritz Hotel. But on Sundays, we had to secure (free) tickets at that entrance and then walk to the Velasquez entry, facing Paseo del Prado, to enter the building.
I do think that the line will be longer in the warmer months.
I will return soon with details of Tuesday's dinner!
I do think that the line will be longer in the warmer months.
I will return soon with details of Tuesday's dinner!
Jan 23rd, 2011, 08:44 AM
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Skcrunchy you are my absolute favorte reporter. I love it.
I am a BIG churros and chocolate girl. That said...I found there was plenty to share with one order at San Gines.
I wish I had know about that olive oil store sounds interesting and fun.
I am a BIG churros and chocolate girl. That said...I found there was plenty to share with one order at San Gines.
I wish I had know about that olive oil store sounds interesting and fun.
Jan 23rd, 2011, 10:17 AM
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Ana one of these days you and I are going to have some adventures in Spain!
Yes, one order of churros was plenty. Last night for dessert, I had one of the packaged alfajores that I bought on the trip...I had never tried these Argentinean concoctions before, but I did see them in a couple of Argentine pastry shops including one on (I think, Calle Ibiza, near Calle Narvaez).
Ok, here is the last dinner, and the "lost in the park" scene.
TABERNA LAREDO, on Calle Menorca, #14, is located on a quiet side street leading east from Retiro park. We were greeted by our host and led past the bustling bar scene (this would be a great place for tapas or raciones at the bar) to one of two small dining rooms to the left and rear of the bar area. Updated traditional is how I would describe the ambience. Starched white linens drape the tables, but food is plated on handsome slate tiles that showcase each dish.
While we perused the menu, we were given a plate of mejillones, or mussles, bathed in a spicy red sauce and still resting in their opened tin, along with fabulous bread.
( There is no negative connotation in serving seafood in the can in Spain, as there might be in the US, and we noticed tinned shellfish on many menus, even at the fairly high-end places at which we ate. Spain’s long tradition of preserving seafood means that tinned varsions are often more highly prized than the fresh version, and some examples sell for what seem like extraordinarily high prices to Americans whose only experience with these might be inexpensive canned tuna or sardines.
For people interested in food shopping, canned seafood presents a veritable ocean of delights in Spain! The menu designation “de lata” indicates that the item comes from a can.)
I had tried razor clams in Spanish and Chinese restaurants in New York and never been wowed. At Taberna Laredo, I was wowed by my started of grilled navajas (18 euro), which ranks with the best dishes of the entire week. About a dozen razor clams, browned to perfection along their slender lengths, rested on a slate tile along with halves of lemon. Outstanding!
My main course—Chuletas de Cordero Lechal—milk-fed chops from a suckling lamb-- was also fantastic. (18 euro) I had abandoned my Madrid search for roast baby lamb like that which had captivated me in Pedraza a few years ago, and while these were not quite as stupendous, they were exceptionally good. The tiny, milk-white chops were presented on a tile alongside cubes of roasted potatoes and a delicious grilled green pepper.
My partner passed on a starter and ordered Confit de Cochinillo con Patata Trufada, or confited suckling pig, a tender and delious portion of the baby animal served on a bed of pureed potatoes richly veined with black truffles. (21 euro)
With water, and glasses of Rueda and a red wine, the bill came to 67 euro—very well worth the price. Taberna Laredo will be on my list when I return to Madrid!
http://www.tabernalaredo.com/EN/index.html
We left the restaurant shortly before 10pm, entering the Park and walking west on the now familiar pathways. But when we reached the gate on the western side of the Park, nearest the Ritz Hotel, we discovered that it was locked! Strange, we thought! My partner mentioned that he had seen a sign saying “24h,” which he figured indicated that the park was always open. (He does not speak, or read, Spanish)
And so we walked north along the muddy minor pathways lining the the western edge of the park, until we reached the Puerta de Alcala . Also closed! We then turned east, walking along the northern edge along Calle de Alcala, until I spotted a lone man walking on the sidewalk outside the fence. This man told me that he had no idea how to exit the park and must have thought we were deranged.
Happily, after more walking (or dragging, by now) along the perimeter of the Park, we met a runner who stopped when I planted myself in his path with my arms frantically waving. Turns out that the park closes at 10pm in winter, but that one gate, at the exact other end to where we stood, remained guarded all night long, and we could exit from there.
By this time, my legs were splattered with mud and we were a little tired at the thought of having to hike all the way southwest to the Puerta de Atocha near Atocha station. Soon, a police car pulled up beside us, having no doubt been alerted by the runner about the hapless and confused foreigners roaming around in the darkness. They confirmed that we could exit at the Atocha gate, and sped off, leaving us to trudge on in the darkness.
The park was exquisitely beautiful at night, so there was nothing lost by this slight mishap. When we got to the gate, I realized that the sign my partner had seen mentioned that the park closes at 10pm, but that this one entrance was manned 24 hours a day. Indeed, a surprised sentry opened the massive wrought iron gates for us, and we continued on our way toward the hotel. One of the many benefits of staying at the Ritz meant that my shoes were shined to perfection by the housekeeping staff!
And so, our second full day in Madrid came to a close. Tomorrow would be our last day in the city, and we had much to accomplish!
Yes, one order of churros was plenty. Last night for dessert, I had one of the packaged alfajores that I bought on the trip...I had never tried these Argentinean concoctions before, but I did see them in a couple of Argentine pastry shops including one on (I think, Calle Ibiza, near Calle Narvaez).
Ok, here is the last dinner, and the "lost in the park" scene.
TABERNA LAREDO, on Calle Menorca, #14, is located on a quiet side street leading east from Retiro park. We were greeted by our host and led past the bustling bar scene (this would be a great place for tapas or raciones at the bar) to one of two small dining rooms to the left and rear of the bar area. Updated traditional is how I would describe the ambience. Starched white linens drape the tables, but food is plated on handsome slate tiles that showcase each dish.
While we perused the menu, we were given a plate of mejillones, or mussles, bathed in a spicy red sauce and still resting in their opened tin, along with fabulous bread.
( There is no negative connotation in serving seafood in the can in Spain, as there might be in the US, and we noticed tinned shellfish on many menus, even at the fairly high-end places at which we ate. Spain’s long tradition of preserving seafood means that tinned varsions are often more highly prized than the fresh version, and some examples sell for what seem like extraordinarily high prices to Americans whose only experience with these might be inexpensive canned tuna or sardines.
For people interested in food shopping, canned seafood presents a veritable ocean of delights in Spain! The menu designation “de lata” indicates that the item comes from a can.)
I had tried razor clams in Spanish and Chinese restaurants in New York and never been wowed. At Taberna Laredo, I was wowed by my started of grilled navajas (18 euro), which ranks with the best dishes of the entire week. About a dozen razor clams, browned to perfection along their slender lengths, rested on a slate tile along with halves of lemon. Outstanding!
My main course—Chuletas de Cordero Lechal—milk-fed chops from a suckling lamb-- was also fantastic. (18 euro) I had abandoned my Madrid search for roast baby lamb like that which had captivated me in Pedraza a few years ago, and while these were not quite as stupendous, they were exceptionally good. The tiny, milk-white chops were presented on a tile alongside cubes of roasted potatoes and a delicious grilled green pepper.
My partner passed on a starter and ordered Confit de Cochinillo con Patata Trufada, or confited suckling pig, a tender and delious portion of the baby animal served on a bed of pureed potatoes richly veined with black truffles. (21 euro)
With water, and glasses of Rueda and a red wine, the bill came to 67 euro—very well worth the price. Taberna Laredo will be on my list when I return to Madrid!
http://www.tabernalaredo.com/EN/index.html
We left the restaurant shortly before 10pm, entering the Park and walking west on the now familiar pathways. But when we reached the gate on the western side of the Park, nearest the Ritz Hotel, we discovered that it was locked! Strange, we thought! My partner mentioned that he had seen a sign saying “24h,” which he figured indicated that the park was always open. (He does not speak, or read, Spanish)
And so we walked north along the muddy minor pathways lining the the western edge of the park, until we reached the Puerta de Alcala . Also closed! We then turned east, walking along the northern edge along Calle de Alcala, until I spotted a lone man walking on the sidewalk outside the fence. This man told me that he had no idea how to exit the park and must have thought we were deranged.
Happily, after more walking (or dragging, by now) along the perimeter of the Park, we met a runner who stopped when I planted myself in his path with my arms frantically waving. Turns out that the park closes at 10pm in winter, but that one gate, at the exact other end to where we stood, remained guarded all night long, and we could exit from there.
By this time, my legs were splattered with mud and we were a little tired at the thought of having to hike all the way southwest to the Puerta de Atocha near Atocha station. Soon, a police car pulled up beside us, having no doubt been alerted by the runner about the hapless and confused foreigners roaming around in the darkness. They confirmed that we could exit at the Atocha gate, and sped off, leaving us to trudge on in the darkness.
The park was exquisitely beautiful at night, so there was nothing lost by this slight mishap. When we got to the gate, I realized that the sign my partner had seen mentioned that the park closes at 10pm, but that this one entrance was manned 24 hours a day. Indeed, a surprised sentry opened the massive wrought iron gates for us, and we continued on our way toward the hotel. One of the many benefits of staying at the Ritz meant that my shoes were shined to perfection by the housekeeping staff!
And so, our second full day in Madrid came to a close. Tomorrow would be our last day in the city, and we had much to accomplish!
Jan 23rd, 2011, 10:30 AM
#51
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Great adventures, eks. At least you returned early enough for the Ritz doors to still be open. We returned so late (early) one night from a flamenco show that the doors were locked tight. Fortunately we noticed a small button which woke up someone to let us in! I must be the only one who's not crazy about the hot chocolate at the legendary San Gines. I found it so thick that it was impossible to even sip.
Waiting to read more.
Waiting to read more.
