Madrid & Andalucía: 26 Years Later
Nov 11th, 2014, 07:51 PM
#21
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Granada
The driving instructions given to us by the Hotel Casa 1800 staff were to park in the Puerta Real parking lot downtown, take a 5-minute taxi to Plaza Nueva, and walk 2-minutes or so to the hotel. The extra effort in getting to the hotel was well worth the trouble, since we thoroughly enjoyed staying in this elegant, quiet, boutique hotel located on a pedestrian-only alley in the heart of Granada. Most of the rooms, including our 3rd floor junior suite have windows that open onto a peaceful inner courtyard. Late risers staying in rooms on lower floors may object to noises coming from the breakfast area (served at 8 am). We especially liked using the Nespresso coffee machine, and the afternoon tea provided a time to rest/snack and bridge the gap before the customarily late dinners. The location next to Plaza Nueva was perfect for grabbing a taxi to go up into the Alhambra or Albaicín hills (an easy walk back down), or for strolling along the Darro River.
There is an obvious difference in the more laid-back lifestyle of Granada, compared to the late-night, go-go street life in the much larger city of Sevilla. Granada also seemed to be a more liberal town as evidenced by the many college students, free spirits (dare I say Hippies), cave squatters, and the lingering odor of cannabis in the air. I have to admit that I was less aware of the connection between Granada and pomegranates; but eventually it clicked after seeing all of those street bollards shaped like the fruit. Once my eye was trained, I saw pomegranates everywhere – on ceramic street signs, manhole covers, storefronts and even hanging in public gardens!
A great way to explore the hilly streets of Granada is on a Segway. I can’t believe I once labeled these two-wheeled, gyroscopic contraptions as gimmicky, and used mainly by tourists to monopolize city sidewalks. I am a Segway convert! We took a 2 ½ hour tour throughout the Albaicín and Sacromonte neighborhoods with Play Segway Granada. This was our first Segway experience and I must confess it turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. Our small group consisted of Malik the guide, and one other couple from Belgium. We each wore a bicycle helmet and a bright yellow safety vest. It took just a few minutes to become adept at operating the Segway and away we went. The guide was very well versed in the history of Granada and we stopped at many different sites, shops, and cave dwellings scattered throughout the hills. There is no way we would have seen as much “hidden Granada” on our own. In fact, we had such an amazing time that we booked another 3-hour trip the next day with a different company (Granada Segway Tours, the red Segways). Their itinerary included the Alhambra, the San Matías neighborhood, and huge chunks of the downtown area all the way to the University of Granada. This time we had a guide to ourselves. He seemed to know everyone in town and his knowledge of the Alhambra was impressive, but he was a little too comical for my taste with his incessant joke-telling (he has seen way too many Austin Powers movies). Each guide did impress me with their attention to our safety at all times and respect for pedestrians. Our boys would have loved joining us on this part of the trip.
I was surprised to find a fairly large, Moorish bazaar area between Plaza Bib-Rambla near the Cathedral and extending across the Calle Gran Via. I would not make a special trip there, but if you happen to be in the area, why not experience a taste of the Middle East/North Africa in Granada. We found nothing to buy, but a stop for a glass of mint tea and baklava reminded us of our trip to Istanbul earlier this year.
A more authentic way to get your Arabesque fix is at Hammam Al Andalus located on Calle Santa Ana, one of the many alleyways just off Plaza Nueva (we bought discounted tickets through our hotel). The interior was breathtakingly beautiful with intricate tile-work, domed ceilings and column-lined pools of different water temperatures. Tea was provided and we had a choice of several scented massage oils. We probably enjoyed this experience more than our Istanbul hammam since in Granada the baths are coed (bring your swimsuits). What a great way to end a long day of sightseeing.
Last Granada tips:
Alhambra: As you may know, tickets for the Nasrid Palace need to be purchased well in advance. We entered the Alhambra through the Gate of Justice, which is much closer to the palace than the main entrance. Audio guides are a must and they can be purchased outside of the palace while you wait in line. The sales person is usually at the end of the line; if not check next-door at the Palace of Charles V bookshop. It does get crowded so either come early or late to avoid the bus tours.
El Trillo Resturante: One of the items on our Granada bucket list was a romantic dinner, al fresco, under the moon and stars, facing the floodlit Alhambra walls. El Trillo not only provides the view, but excellent food to match. We had delicious red tuna tartare flown in from Cadiz, artichoke salad, cod and if memory serves, another of my baby pork dishes. All really good. Most of the outdoor seating is in a secluded garden, so if you want the view you must request one of the four or five tables on the upstairs deck. This is not the easiest restaurant to find in the maze of narrow Albaicin streets, but it may be the best in the area. Another Albaicin restaurant that was recommended by our hotel is Restaurantes Estrellas de San Nicolas. It has an even better view of the Alhambra, but IMHO the food does not compare to El Trillo.
Damasqueros: This was our best meal of the trip, period. No surprise here since the cook, who is also the co-owner with her husband, learned her trade at the 3-star Michelin restaurant, Martin Berasategui in San Sebastion. The tasting meal changes weekly and was prepared beautifully with impeccable service. I added the wine pairings that were all delicious, full pours. In fact, Santi (the husband) insisted on pouring another glass of any wine that I happened to especially praise. This meal would have cost at least twice as much in SF or NYC. An elegant, hidden gem. Note: Damasqueros is located on a small street in the Realejo neighborhood and should not be confused with Bistro, or Bar Damasqueros that you will see on the other end of the same street.
Art Gallery & Ice Cream: We finally found at nice art gallery called Granada Capital Galeria de Arte. It conveniently located on Gran Vía de Colón, 13 across the street from the best ice cream in town, Heladeria Los Italianos (all the locals go there).
Closing Thought:
On our honeymoon 26 years ago, we visited Granada and stayed at the Parador de San Francisco located inside the Alhambra walls. We returned to the parador on this trip to reminisce, and to recreate our first delicious taste of gazpacho together as husband and wife, in the garden restaurant, overlooking the Alhambra, with the scent of jasmine in the still night air. Sadly, we found out how tough it is to conger up past memories as our server was very inattentive, the gazpacho somewhat watery, and the German couple next to us kept blowing smoke towards our table. Hopefully our original memories of that special night will still linger on a while longer…
Coming up. Our final days in Nerja, including stops in Marbella, Puerta Banus and Malaga.
The driving instructions given to us by the Hotel Casa 1800 staff were to park in the Puerta Real parking lot downtown, take a 5-minute taxi to Plaza Nueva, and walk 2-minutes or so to the hotel. The extra effort in getting to the hotel was well worth the trouble, since we thoroughly enjoyed staying in this elegant, quiet, boutique hotel located on a pedestrian-only alley in the heart of Granada. Most of the rooms, including our 3rd floor junior suite have windows that open onto a peaceful inner courtyard. Late risers staying in rooms on lower floors may object to noises coming from the breakfast area (served at 8 am). We especially liked using the Nespresso coffee machine, and the afternoon tea provided a time to rest/snack and bridge the gap before the customarily late dinners. The location next to Plaza Nueva was perfect for grabbing a taxi to go up into the Alhambra or Albaicín hills (an easy walk back down), or for strolling along the Darro River.
There is an obvious difference in the more laid-back lifestyle of Granada, compared to the late-night, go-go street life in the much larger city of Sevilla. Granada also seemed to be a more liberal town as evidenced by the many college students, free spirits (dare I say Hippies), cave squatters, and the lingering odor of cannabis in the air. I have to admit that I was less aware of the connection between Granada and pomegranates; but eventually it clicked after seeing all of those street bollards shaped like the fruit. Once my eye was trained, I saw pomegranates everywhere – on ceramic street signs, manhole covers, storefronts and even hanging in public gardens!
A great way to explore the hilly streets of Granada is on a Segway. I can’t believe I once labeled these two-wheeled, gyroscopic contraptions as gimmicky, and used mainly by tourists to monopolize city sidewalks. I am a Segway convert! We took a 2 ½ hour tour throughout the Albaicín and Sacromonte neighborhoods with Play Segway Granada. This was our first Segway experience and I must confess it turned out to be one of the highlights of the trip. Our small group consisted of Malik the guide, and one other couple from Belgium. We each wore a bicycle helmet and a bright yellow safety vest. It took just a few minutes to become adept at operating the Segway and away we went. The guide was very well versed in the history of Granada and we stopped at many different sites, shops, and cave dwellings scattered throughout the hills. There is no way we would have seen as much “hidden Granada” on our own. In fact, we had such an amazing time that we booked another 3-hour trip the next day with a different company (Granada Segway Tours, the red Segways). Their itinerary included the Alhambra, the San Matías neighborhood, and huge chunks of the downtown area all the way to the University of Granada. This time we had a guide to ourselves. He seemed to know everyone in town and his knowledge of the Alhambra was impressive, but he was a little too comical for my taste with his incessant joke-telling (he has seen way too many Austin Powers movies). Each guide did impress me with their attention to our safety at all times and respect for pedestrians. Our boys would have loved joining us on this part of the trip.
I was surprised to find a fairly large, Moorish bazaar area between Plaza Bib-Rambla near the Cathedral and extending across the Calle Gran Via. I would not make a special trip there, but if you happen to be in the area, why not experience a taste of the Middle East/North Africa in Granada. We found nothing to buy, but a stop for a glass of mint tea and baklava reminded us of our trip to Istanbul earlier this year.
A more authentic way to get your Arabesque fix is at Hammam Al Andalus located on Calle Santa Ana, one of the many alleyways just off Plaza Nueva (we bought discounted tickets through our hotel). The interior was breathtakingly beautiful with intricate tile-work, domed ceilings and column-lined pools of different water temperatures. Tea was provided and we had a choice of several scented massage oils. We probably enjoyed this experience more than our Istanbul hammam since in Granada the baths are coed (bring your swimsuits). What a great way to end a long day of sightseeing.
Last Granada tips:
Alhambra: As you may know, tickets for the Nasrid Palace need to be purchased well in advance. We entered the Alhambra through the Gate of Justice, which is much closer to the palace than the main entrance. Audio guides are a must and they can be purchased outside of the palace while you wait in line. The sales person is usually at the end of the line; if not check next-door at the Palace of Charles V bookshop. It does get crowded so either come early or late to avoid the bus tours.
El Trillo Resturante: One of the items on our Granada bucket list was a romantic dinner, al fresco, under the moon and stars, facing the floodlit Alhambra walls. El Trillo not only provides the view, but excellent food to match. We had delicious red tuna tartare flown in from Cadiz, artichoke salad, cod and if memory serves, another of my baby pork dishes. All really good. Most of the outdoor seating is in a secluded garden, so if you want the view you must request one of the four or five tables on the upstairs deck. This is not the easiest restaurant to find in the maze of narrow Albaicin streets, but it may be the best in the area. Another Albaicin restaurant that was recommended by our hotel is Restaurantes Estrellas de San Nicolas. It has an even better view of the Alhambra, but IMHO the food does not compare to El Trillo.
Damasqueros: This was our best meal of the trip, period. No surprise here since the cook, who is also the co-owner with her husband, learned her trade at the 3-star Michelin restaurant, Martin Berasategui in San Sebastion. The tasting meal changes weekly and was prepared beautifully with impeccable service. I added the wine pairings that were all delicious, full pours. In fact, Santi (the husband) insisted on pouring another glass of any wine that I happened to especially praise. This meal would have cost at least twice as much in SF or NYC. An elegant, hidden gem. Note: Damasqueros is located on a small street in the Realejo neighborhood and should not be confused with Bistro, or Bar Damasqueros that you will see on the other end of the same street.
Art Gallery & Ice Cream: We finally found at nice art gallery called Granada Capital Galeria de Arte. It conveniently located on Gran Vía de Colón, 13 across the street from the best ice cream in town, Heladeria Los Italianos (all the locals go there).
Closing Thought:
On our honeymoon 26 years ago, we visited Granada and stayed at the Parador de San Francisco located inside the Alhambra walls. We returned to the parador on this trip to reminisce, and to recreate our first delicious taste of gazpacho together as husband and wife, in the garden restaurant, overlooking the Alhambra, with the scent of jasmine in the still night air. Sadly, we found out how tough it is to conger up past memories as our server was very inattentive, the gazpacho somewhat watery, and the German couple next to us kept blowing smoke towards our table. Hopefully our original memories of that special night will still linger on a while longer…
Coming up. Our final days in Nerja, including stops in Marbella, Puerta Banus and Malaga.
Nov 13th, 2014, 08:58 AM
#22
your Granada trip sounds delightful, Bel. We too found the arab market and enjoyed wandering round and drinking tea, but in our case it was in a tea -shop overlooking the Alhambra.
I agree that the atmosphere is very nice and i would have liked more than 2 nights there.
I agree that the atmosphere is very nice and i would have liked more than 2 nights there.
Nov 16th, 2014, 08:39 PM
#23
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Nerja
The last two nights of our trip were spent in Nerja for two reasons:
1. Given the opportunity, we love to end our trips relaxing on a beach for a couple of days.
2. There are lots of flights to back to London via nearby Malaga.
At the risk of sounding like a travel curmudgeon, the Costa del Sol was never on my list of must visits. I have traveled throughout Spain avoiding this area because of fears that it is an overdeveloped, concrete jungle of condos and nondescript hotels. For the most part, that’s exactly what it is. I’m sure Nerja was once a serene, sea-side village of white-washed buildings clinging to the Mediterranean Sea, but these days, any lingering quaintness or authenticity has been sucked out of it by the hordes of tourists and expats that flood its streets. I totally understand the British demand for a place in the sun to retire, but I was quite surprised by their sheer numbers in Nerja. Very little Spanish is heard on the streets or in the restaurants for that matter (one of our waiters had a great East End accent). If I wanted to see fish & chip shops, pubs, and curry houses, I would have gone to the UK, not Spain! Full disclosure: I did enjoy a Guinness (or two) and the fiddle playing at the Irish Harp Bar on Calle Carabeo.
On the positive side, we found a true oasis in Nerja at the Hotel Carabeo and its excellent Restaurant 34. The hotel is located on the side of a cliff overlooking the sea; far enough away from the center of town to allow for a very quiet night of sleep. We were fortunate to reserve the penthouse, which is really a three-room apartment with two bathrooms and a huge, tiled deck that faces the Mediterranean. It was the perfect place to lie on a chaise lounge and finally start that novel that I had been carrying around for the entire trip. We loved having breakfast overlooking the swimming pool and the sea in the distance. Our experience at Hotel Carabeo was first class. What we didn’t know was that the Feria de Nerja was held on the weekend we arrived in town, which meant that the closest car park (can’t get that British English out of my head) to the hotel was used for the festival grounds and not for hotel parking. That was a minor inconvenience compared to the unbelievable amount of noise generated by the fair from 4 pm until about 4 am. The constant ear-piercing music blasting out of huge speakers made it nearly physically impossible to walk through the fairgrounds. There was absolutely nothing quaint or endearing about this fair. Thankfully, once inside our hotel room we heard but a slight thump, thump from the bass notes.
It is fairly easy to avoid the tourists on the streets of Nerja by heading to one of the several secluded beaches that dot the coastline. There are many restaurants along the beach, however we only ate in town at El Pulguilla, which is a very simple, mostly outdoor, inexpensive seafood restaurant. We had really good grilled monkfish, squid and a few tapas. Also, Restaurant 34 is a very good, upscale continental restaurant located inside our hotel. If you reserve, be sure to ask for an outside table overlooking the sea. Nerja is one of the southern Spanish towns where you will still find bars serving free tapas with each drink you purchase.
After a late dinner at our hotel, we walked back into the center of town to the lovely Balcon de Europa that juts out perpendicular to the sea. The crowds were mostly gone by then and we were far enough away from the fair to enjoy a peaceful stroll. The view looking back towards the floodlit town and cliffs was truly gorgeous. Maybe my initial impression of Nerja was too negative?
Marbella
We went for a nice drive along the coastal highway from Nerja to Marbella and Puerto Banus. This is an excellent road that winds through many tunnels offering beautiful views of the sea. It was also the first time we had to pay a toll since leaving Sevilla. We pulled into the Marbella Club Hotel and realized that it would have been a great choice for spending our last days on the Costa del Sol. For some reason I never really investigated staying in Marbella. We bought small salads and sandwiches to-go at a sort of organic deli/restaurant across the street from the hotel. We parked the car at Puerto Banus and had a picnic at marina as we watched the mega-yachts go by. Puerto Banus is an incredibly up-scale enclave that attracts the jet-set crowd making it a fun place to people watch. It reminded us of Saint-Tropez minus the beautiful beaches. We were really surprised how much we enjoyed walking through Marbella's old town. It has much better shopping than Nerja as well as quaint, narrow streets and a beautiful church.
Malaga
Before heading to the airport with stopped in Malaga for a few hours. It was a Sunday and not very many people seemed to be on the streets. We strolled along the recently restored waterfront and explored the streets of old town Malaga. We visited the Museo Carmen Thyssen, which is located in a beautifully restored 16th century palace (never made it to the Madrid branch). We also stopped at the wonderful Museum of Glass and Crystal set in a restored 18th century house. The enthusiastic owner of the museum guided us through his home and told many stories about his life of collecting rare crystal. Absolutely a must see in Malaga.
_________________________________
Our trip to Spain was a great success due in large part to the knowledge gleaned from the countless posts I've read on this Travel Talk Forum. Thank you all!
Where are we going next??
Starting to think about Berlin and Prague followed by...
The last two nights of our trip were spent in Nerja for two reasons:
1. Given the opportunity, we love to end our trips relaxing on a beach for a couple of days.
2. There are lots of flights to back to London via nearby Malaga.
At the risk of sounding like a travel curmudgeon, the Costa del Sol was never on my list of must visits. I have traveled throughout Spain avoiding this area because of fears that it is an overdeveloped, concrete jungle of condos and nondescript hotels. For the most part, that’s exactly what it is. I’m sure Nerja was once a serene, sea-side village of white-washed buildings clinging to the Mediterranean Sea, but these days, any lingering quaintness or authenticity has been sucked out of it by the hordes of tourists and expats that flood its streets. I totally understand the British demand for a place in the sun to retire, but I was quite surprised by their sheer numbers in Nerja. Very little Spanish is heard on the streets or in the restaurants for that matter (one of our waiters had a great East End accent). If I wanted to see fish & chip shops, pubs, and curry houses, I would have gone to the UK, not Spain! Full disclosure: I did enjoy a Guinness (or two) and the fiddle playing at the Irish Harp Bar on Calle Carabeo.
On the positive side, we found a true oasis in Nerja at the Hotel Carabeo and its excellent Restaurant 34. The hotel is located on the side of a cliff overlooking the sea; far enough away from the center of town to allow for a very quiet night of sleep. We were fortunate to reserve the penthouse, which is really a three-room apartment with two bathrooms and a huge, tiled deck that faces the Mediterranean. It was the perfect place to lie on a chaise lounge and finally start that novel that I had been carrying around for the entire trip. We loved having breakfast overlooking the swimming pool and the sea in the distance. Our experience at Hotel Carabeo was first class. What we didn’t know was that the Feria de Nerja was held on the weekend we arrived in town, which meant that the closest car park (can’t get that British English out of my head) to the hotel was used for the festival grounds and not for hotel parking. That was a minor inconvenience compared to the unbelievable amount of noise generated by the fair from 4 pm until about 4 am. The constant ear-piercing music blasting out of huge speakers made it nearly physically impossible to walk through the fairgrounds. There was absolutely nothing quaint or endearing about this fair. Thankfully, once inside our hotel room we heard but a slight thump, thump from the bass notes.
It is fairly easy to avoid the tourists on the streets of Nerja by heading to one of the several secluded beaches that dot the coastline. There are many restaurants along the beach, however we only ate in town at El Pulguilla, which is a very simple, mostly outdoor, inexpensive seafood restaurant. We had really good grilled monkfish, squid and a few tapas. Also, Restaurant 34 is a very good, upscale continental restaurant located inside our hotel. If you reserve, be sure to ask for an outside table overlooking the sea. Nerja is one of the southern Spanish towns where you will still find bars serving free tapas with each drink you purchase.
After a late dinner at our hotel, we walked back into the center of town to the lovely Balcon de Europa that juts out perpendicular to the sea. The crowds were mostly gone by then and we were far enough away from the fair to enjoy a peaceful stroll. The view looking back towards the floodlit town and cliffs was truly gorgeous. Maybe my initial impression of Nerja was too negative?
Marbella
We went for a nice drive along the coastal highway from Nerja to Marbella and Puerto Banus. This is an excellent road that winds through many tunnels offering beautiful views of the sea. It was also the first time we had to pay a toll since leaving Sevilla. We pulled into the Marbella Club Hotel and realized that it would have been a great choice for spending our last days on the Costa del Sol. For some reason I never really investigated staying in Marbella. We bought small salads and sandwiches to-go at a sort of organic deli/restaurant across the street from the hotel. We parked the car at Puerto Banus and had a picnic at marina as we watched the mega-yachts go by. Puerto Banus is an incredibly up-scale enclave that attracts the jet-set crowd making it a fun place to people watch. It reminded us of Saint-Tropez minus the beautiful beaches. We were really surprised how much we enjoyed walking through Marbella's old town. It has much better shopping than Nerja as well as quaint, narrow streets and a beautiful church.
Malaga
Before heading to the airport with stopped in Malaga for a few hours. It was a Sunday and not very many people seemed to be on the streets. We strolled along the recently restored waterfront and explored the streets of old town Malaga. We visited the Museo Carmen Thyssen, which is located in a beautifully restored 16th century palace (never made it to the Madrid branch). We also stopped at the wonderful Museum of Glass and Crystal set in a restored 18th century house. The enthusiastic owner of the museum guided us through his home and told many stories about his life of collecting rare crystal. Absolutely a must see in Malaga.
_________________________________
Our trip to Spain was a great success due in large part to the knowledge gleaned from the countless posts I've read on this Travel Talk Forum. Thank you all!
Where are we going next??
Starting to think about Berlin and Prague followed by...
Nov 16th, 2014, 10:45 PM
#24
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When it comes to Nerja, the Feria is totally crazy, but it's also lots of fun if you know how to enjoy it. Lots of cultural activities, great concerts etc. Had an unforgettable night at a concert with local hero and eventually huge national copla star Antonio Cortes a few years ago. Some 3000 very proud nerjeños in the huge tent on the festival grounds. Not any English to be heard here, no.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uog7lx-2d9Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3_UrH6iq-0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrV4bgsfIYk
A very young Antonio Cortes (16 or something) singing a traditional saeta on the streets of Nerja during Semana Santa: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQUDWsfCHF4
Now, on other stages: http://www.antoniocortes.org/
And plenty of very genuine tapas bars/restaurants in the beautiful Casco antiguo/Old town in Nerja. Some of my favourites within a couple of hundred meters:
La Puntilla (fantastic fish and seafood tapas): http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html
Los Bilbainos: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...los-bilbainos/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html
El Cangrejo: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...s/el-cangrejo/
El Velero (the best carne con tomate in all of the Malaga region?): http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandrestaurants/el-velero/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html
There is much more to Nerja than meets the eye.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=uog7lx-2d9Y
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=V3_UrH6iq-0
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GrV4bgsfIYk
A very young Antonio Cortes (16 or something) singing a traditional saeta on the streets of Nerja during Semana Santa: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YQUDWsfCHF4
Now, on other stages: http://www.antoniocortes.org/
And plenty of very genuine tapas bars/restaurants in the beautiful Casco antiguo/Old town in Nerja. Some of my favourites within a couple of hundred meters:
La Puntilla (fantastic fish and seafood tapas): http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html
Los Bilbainos: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...los-bilbainos/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html
El Cangrejo: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...s/el-cangrejo/
El Velero (the best carne con tomate in all of the Malaga region?): http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandrestaurants/el-velero/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalucia.html
There is much more to Nerja than meets the eye.
Nov 17th, 2014, 02:37 AM
#25
Thanks again for your great mouth-watering report! I'm saving this for our trip in May. Loving the description of some of your meals and have noted the places in Seville and especially Granada! I'll be taking many notes before our trip in May!
Paule
Paule
Nov 17th, 2014, 09:46 AM
#26
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Hi kimhe,
I was expecting your reply
. I know how much you love Spain; especially the cuisine and arts. BTW we probably carried on this trip five pages of notes taken from your posts, so a big thanks from DW and me for your generous sharing of tips and suggestions.
I did want to echo your recommendation of La Puntilla. I left it off my trip report, but we did eat there for lunch and it was great. We actually ate quite well in Nerja. I just think for me, there was something lacking with the entire Costa del Sol portion of the trip. I recently re-read an old trip report of mine from the Côte d'Azur (can’t believe it was '08). I know comparisons are dangerous, but maybe I was hoping to find the Spanish equivalent to Le Lavandou, St. Tropez, Antibes,St. Paul-de-Vence etc; I did not.
Having said that, your response makes the point clear that if you know where to look, you will find authenticity almost anywhere. It was fun seeing all of the mothers and daughters in town dressed for the Féria in their finest “trajes de flamenco”. I wish I knew about the concert you mentioned, however, I stand firm on my overall negative description of the fairground itself. The fair I observed was as tacky as they come; complete with rigged carnival games, greasy food, and that constant, high decibel, mind-numbing racket. At least it was completely safe, without the thugs that seem to show up at our local county fairs.
I was expecting your reply
. I know how much you love Spain; especially the cuisine and arts. BTW we probably carried on this trip five pages of notes taken from your posts, so a big thanks from DW and me for your generous sharing of tips and suggestions.I did want to echo your recommendation of La Puntilla. I left it off my trip report, but we did eat there for lunch and it was great. We actually ate quite well in Nerja. I just think for me, there was something lacking with the entire Costa del Sol portion of the trip. I recently re-read an old trip report of mine from the Côte d'Azur (can’t believe it was '08). I know comparisons are dangerous, but maybe I was hoping to find the Spanish equivalent to Le Lavandou, St. Tropez, Antibes,St. Paul-de-Vence etc; I did not.
Having said that, your response makes the point clear that if you know where to look, you will find authenticity almost anywhere. It was fun seeing all of the mothers and daughters in town dressed for the Féria in their finest “trajes de flamenco”. I wish I knew about the concert you mentioned, however, I stand firm on my overall negative description of the fairground itself. The fair I observed was as tacky as they come; complete with rigged carnival games, greasy food, and that constant, high decibel, mind-numbing racket. At least it was completely safe, without the thugs that seem to show up at our local county fairs.
Nov 17th, 2014, 11:51 AM
#27
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Malaga is a lovely Andalusian town , we did not find anything remotely " British " about it as might be the case in many places on Costa del Sol.
Thanks for the long report.
Berlin and Prague are both great cities. I stopped in Dresden between.
Happy planing.
Thanks for the long report.
Berlin and Prague are both great cities. I stopped in Dresden between.
Happy planing.
Nov 17th, 2014, 11:51 PM
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Hi BelTib,
Glad to hear that you found some of the tips helpful!
Just a comment on the Nerja Fair:
Nerja during the Feria is a kind of a "state of emergency", but it's in general very local and very Andalucian, even the tacky fairgrounds. A friend and I wandered through the fairgounds late at night with a big smile on our faces a couple of years ago, remembering the unbeatable frase from Gerald Brenan's housekeeper in his classic "South from Granada". Brenan was telling her that he was going back to England for a couple of weeks, and she replied that she never understood what he went to this "Europa de Francia" for. Brenan's housekeeper would most probably consider Madrid as "Europa de Francia", and the Nerja Feria is definitely not a "Europa de Francia" thing. A couple of minutes later we were in a kind of a prison cell cage 30 meters up in the air in a frantic revolving wheel, heart in mouth and having a great Andalucia moment.
The Nerja fair has, although in a much smaller scale, many similarities with for example the famous Sevilla and Cordoba spring fairs with its parades, competitions, masses, religious processions and very popular midnight concerts: http://mynerja.com/view/news/nerja-feria-2013/
Glad to hear that you found some of the tips helpful!
Just a comment on the Nerja Fair:
Nerja during the Feria is a kind of a "state of emergency", but it's in general very local and very Andalucian, even the tacky fairgrounds. A friend and I wandered through the fairgounds late at night with a big smile on our faces a couple of years ago, remembering the unbeatable frase from Gerald Brenan's housekeeper in his classic "South from Granada". Brenan was telling her that he was going back to England for a couple of weeks, and she replied that she never understood what he went to this "Europa de Francia" for. Brenan's housekeeper would most probably consider Madrid as "Europa de Francia", and the Nerja Feria is definitely not a "Europa de Francia" thing. A couple of minutes later we were in a kind of a prison cell cage 30 meters up in the air in a frantic revolving wheel, heart in mouth and having a great Andalucia moment.
The Nerja fair has, although in a much smaller scale, many similarities with for example the famous Sevilla and Cordoba spring fairs with its parades, competitions, masses, religious processions and very popular midnight concerts: http://mynerja.com/view/news/nerja-feria-2013/
May 4th, 2015, 03:07 PM
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Just had a quick glance, and can't wait to read in-depth.
Was grateful to see another reference to audioguide availability near the Justicia Gate at the Alhambra. Thank you!
And thanks for the shout out to KC Royals fans - what an amazing fall that was!
Was grateful to see another reference to audioguide availability near the Justicia Gate at the Alhambra. Thank you!
And thanks for the shout out to KC Royals fans - what an amazing fall that was!
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jameslmorrison
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Jun 4th, 2011 07:08 PM
