Lyon, Avignon, Arles and Provence
#21
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No Nimes, but lots of other visual ideas for Provence in our phototravelogue at http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...08%3A540606391
#22
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Cezanne's atelier is as he left it. Almost spooky and interesting to see some of the things he used in his works sitting around. It almost got destroyed but was saved. Apparently he was fixated on Mont Vent and there's a spot at top of hill from atelier showing where he painted.
#24
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For you lucky artists going to Lyon in the coming months (I'll be going back in April and can't wait) a place to check out contemporary art whilst enjoying a drink or bite to eat, is Cafe 203 on Rue du Garet in the first.
It's a tiny, brilliant cafe/bistro where they exhibit work by contemporary artists, encompassing everything from paintings to sound installations (headphones attached to CD players are fixed to the walls) all of which is for sale.
They also have a couple of Peugeot 203 pick-up trucks (hence the cafe's name), that roam the city displaying pieces that are too large to fit in the cafe itself so if you spend much time in the city centre, you're fairly likely to spot one.
On another note I think the MAC (Musée d'art Contemporain) is closed until early March, so it may be worth checking before you decide to schlep out to the Cité International.
It's a tiny, brilliant cafe/bistro where they exhibit work by contemporary artists, encompassing everything from paintings to sound installations (headphones attached to CD players are fixed to the walls) all of which is for sale.
They also have a couple of Peugeot 203 pick-up trucks (hence the cafe's name), that roam the city displaying pieces that are too large to fit in the cafe itself so if you spend much time in the city centre, you're fairly likely to spot one.
On another note I think the MAC (Musée d'art Contemporain) is closed until early March, so it may be worth checking before you decide to schlep out to the Cité International.
#26
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alan54,
only to drink.
Thanks JayG, for all those tips.
Michel-Paris: I will definitely be in Lyon for 3 days. Have to be. Commitments.
Tdudette, I've been reading up on the atelier. What I can't stand is when artists' homes or where they painted aren't left as is but turned into some kind of set piece that supposedly recreates the paintings. As for van Gogh, I just don't think I want to go to the places he was in insane asylums or hurt himself. It would just make me too sad I think. Basically, I think artists put their true selves into their art. That's generally most the revealing thing to me, but sometimes seeing something of their outer lives is interesting.
only to drink.
Thanks JayG, for all those tips.
Michel-Paris: I will definitely be in Lyon for 3 days. Have to be. Commitments.
Tdudette, I've been reading up on the atelier. What I can't stand is when artists' homes or where they painted aren't left as is but turned into some kind of set piece that supposedly recreates the paintings. As for van Gogh, I just don't think I want to go to the places he was in insane asylums or hurt himself. It would just make me too sad I think. Basically, I think artists put their true selves into their art. That's generally most the revealing thing to me, but sometimes seeing something of their outer lives is interesting.
#28
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I love your passion Underhill. Here's my reasoning:
I've seen lots of roman aqueducts. I don't need a lot more evidence the Romans were engineering geniuses.
I really don't want to rent a car.
As far as I can tell from spotty internet reading, it's a tourist zoo.
My trip is not about "acing Provence." It's just a fluke I'm going to be in that part of the world.
So now you know. How do I get there from Avignon without a car if you manage to change my mind?
I've seen lots of roman aqueducts. I don't need a lot more evidence the Romans were engineering geniuses.
I really don't want to rent a car.
As far as I can tell from spotty internet reading, it's a tourist zoo.
My trip is not about "acing Provence." It's just a fluke I'm going to be in that part of the world.
So now you know. How do I get there from Avignon without a car if you manage to change my mind?
#29
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You may find the Les Halles Paul Bocuse market in Lyon one you'd enjoy. While it has some of the typical fish, meat and veggie displays common to most markets, its primary appeal is prepared foods beautifully presented, with stalls interpersed with little restaurants where you can taste the specialties on display. If you like food, it's hard to believe that you won't enjoy the Bouchons (old fashioned bistros) of Lyon. The decor is a treat in itself and the wonderful, hearty dishes are soul satisfying. Try especially the Saucisson chaud, warm sausages, with boiled potatoes, and sometimes lentils. We loved Garet on the rue de Garet, mentioned above for the art cafe.
#30
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I have to say that van Gogh was never my fave but seeing the yellow fields in Provence and looking up from one cafe in Arles and seeing the one he painted across the way, gave me goose bumps-he captured an essence of those 2 things in my mind. I appreciate his work so much more now. Where DH and I walked in Arles was very photogenic. Do hope you can get there at least for a day-you might be inspired.
Arles very train-able. From Aix, we used busses to get around.
Arles very train-able. From Aix, we used busses to get around.
#31
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Thanks Julie. I'm a vegetarian but the person I'm seeing in Lyon isn't, so I'll spring for the bistros and hope to find lentils! I can't get into markets much unless I've got a kitchen, which I doubt I will in Lyon. Is the one you describe like the Bouqueria in Barcelona -- have you been?
TDudette,
I know what you mean. I was once on a train from Paris to Lausanne, and we passed through these freshly mown fields, and it was a revelation, because you always hear these arguments about van Gogh's eye being distorted, but those fields looked exactly like what he painted. I probably will to to Arles for the Roman ruins, but like I said, van Gogh's life -- I've read all his letters -- doesn't cheer me up.
TDudette,
I know what you mean. I was once on a train from Paris to Lausanne, and we passed through these freshly mown fields, and it was a revelation, because you always hear these arguments about van Gogh's eye being distorted, but those fields looked exactly like what he painted. I probably will to to Arles for the Roman ruins, but like I said, van Gogh's life -- I've read all his letters -- doesn't cheer me up.
#32
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Lyon's Bocuse market is about the size of the Boqueria (another of my favorite markets) in Barcelona but much less "gritty", more refined with more processed, packaged foodstuffs along with the natural displays. Don't let me push you into something you wouldn't ordinarily do, just know that this market is pretty upscale, classy if that appeals to you more than the standard, more homespun, farm centered markets.
#34
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thanks Julie. Sounds like it might be an education, plus a cheap lunch. The French do prepared foods probably best in the world. I like farm markets alot but only when I can take lovely veg home to cook. I'm pretty sure I won't bother to have a kitchen in Lyon.
tDudette, I'm waiting for it to get warmer! I am hoping to include a trip to Firminy-Vert to tour Corbusier sites as well as the classic sights of Lyon.
http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/08/02...2cultured.html
tDudette, I'm waiting for it to get warmer! I am hoping to include a trip to Firminy-Vert to tour Corbusier sites as well as the classic sights of Lyon.
http://travel.nytimes.com/2009/08/02...2cultured.html