Go Back  Fodor's Travel Talk Forums > Destinations > Europe
Reload this Page >

LYB's Trip report - searching for a rude Parisian waiter, emotional visit through Normandy, seeing beautiful men in Bruges, getting cranky in Brussels, and a bad start in Amsterdam ends with a perfect fall day.

Search

LYB's Trip report - searching for a rude Parisian waiter, emotional visit through Normandy, seeing beautiful men in Bruges, getting cranky in Brussels, and a bad start in Amsterdam ends with a perfect fall day.

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 11:36 AM
  #21  
lyb
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Here are more relevant links, especially to newbies who may not know where to start when plannning that first trip to Paris:

Bee Shuttle; http://www.bee-shuttle.com/

Hotel Europe St Severin: http://www.hotel-paris-severin.com/index.htm

Also, a side note, when I tried to reserve through the hotel directly, they had told me that they no longer had Double room/single occupancy at the rate of 120 Euros, however, I was able to book that same rooom at the following website: http://www.activereservations.com/hotel/

I would use this company again to reserve a room. After I had made my reservations, I had a question, I emailed them and they responded within less than 24 hours.
lyb is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 01:35 PM
  #22  
 
Join Date: Jun 2005
Posts: 253
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Okay I have a question? As I look at your pictures I realize you were in Paris on Oct. 5 & 6th. and you needed a new warm scarf because it was so cold.

We were in Paris on October 4, 5th and while we wore a light jacket because it was misty we certainly didn't feel it was cold at all.

My question is.....where do you live normally? To find Paris so cold on the 5 & 6th of October you must be coming from Florida.....we are from NW Ontario in Canada and I guess we were used to more seasonal weather for Paris in October.

Imagine we were up the Eiffel tower the same day! We were there in the evening after the lights were on so I guess we missed you!
Timlin is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 02:17 PM
  #23  
lyb
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Timlin,

I'm not from Florida, but I am from Sacramento...we had a month of 100 degrees and above this summer and when I left on October 1st, the whole previous week had been in the high 80's/low 90's...my blood wasn't ready for cool weather.
lyb is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 02:44 PM
  #24  
lyb
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thank you everybody for all the compliments on my pictures and the "other" compliments.

Now, on to my next day in Paris......
lyb is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 02:51 PM
  #25  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 34,738
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
lyb, we lived in NYC and moved to Fl ... we were there about a year when we went to Paris ( last March) I froze every day
Scarlett is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 03:10 PM
  #26  
 
Join Date: Sep 2005
Posts: 242
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
lyb: Enjoying your report as much as I enjoyed your photos! I arrived in Paris on the 5th, and although I didn't find it to be cold (I'm from Michigan), it was cool, overcast and hazy until Saturday when the sun finally came out and it warmed up.

I stayed right down the street from you, so I can really visualize your walks throughout the city. Makes me want to go back soon, as all Paris reports do.

Looking forward to the rest of your report.

Gina
travgina is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 04:15 PM
  #27  
lyb
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
PARIS, TUESDAY, OCT 4

Today's ultimate goal...Eiffel Tower!

I chose not to have breakfast at the hotel, it wasn't bad, but for 10 Euro, I thought I could find somewhere else for cheaper and maybe more fun. I ended up having breakfast at "La Brioche Doree", for 3.50 I had coffee, orange juice and 2 croissants/pastries...what a great deal!

As I started walking I realized that there was a little problem. My right foot had a pinch or kink, I'm not sure exactly what it was, but every step I took, a sharp pain shot up and it made me limp. But I had no choice and figured I would either walk it off or be limping and wincing for the rest of the day...nothing was going to stop me on my quest to walk to the Eiffel Tower and stop at different spots along the way.

At home I'm a Starbucks Venti size (X-large for the non Starbuck people) coffee drinker and so far, everywhere I had coffee, the cups were small, this isn't something I had a real problem with...but.....when I was walking or should I say limping along the Blvd St Germain and saw a Starbucks across the street...I admit it, I was thrilled...yes, go ahead crucify me...I went to a Starbucks in Paris. I limped across the street and got my Venti non-fat latte to go...I was a happy girl, it made the foot pain not as bad!

I used the Streetwise Paris map and it was my best buddy throughout my stay, especially today when I took side streets to get to my first stop, the D'Orsay museum. Off of the Blvd St Geramin, I took the Rue du Bac, turned left on Rue de Verneuil, then right on Rue de Poitiers. I list all the streets, because it was such a pleasant walk, again, not touristy streets, the local dry cleaner, butcher, grocery store, etc...I could see myself living in that neighborhood and walking to the grocery store...a life that seems so much better than always getting in the car to go everywhere....maybe one day?

But once I got to the D’Orsay museum, I had another taste of living in France…the national day strikes! On that day there was a national transportation workers strike, it had never occurred to me that this would affect the Museum, but it sure did. It was closed for the day! Well, that certainly made me have to re-arrange my plans. Since my foot was still hurting and I wanted to regroup, I went to yet another café, this time, Les Deux Musees. I only had hot tea but I got to sit back, watch people and do one of my favorite activities, eavesdrop on conversations around me…one of the beauties of traveling alone.

I then went to a store that sold Limoges boxes just steps away from the museum on rue de Bellechasse, my best friend collects boxes and I wanted to buy her belated birthday present, which was high time, since her birthday is in mid-July! There were so many beautiful boxes, but most were way above my budget, the sales clerk was extremely helpful when I told her that I would prefer not to spend more than 45-50 Euros, she immediately took me to another area of the store where the boxes weren’t 80 + Euros. I then had a great conversation with her about the strike and the cost of living in Paris. It was kind of funny, it was like we were best friends, talking about the cost of heating our house, our way of living…etc…. I really enjoyed it and it was even more enjoyable because I was able to speak French without even thinking about it. I finally had my brain geared towards French and I no longer had to think before I spoke….which of course, friends have sometimes accused me of doing in English anyway.

I continued down the rue de Bellechasse and turned on Rue de Varenne to go to the Rodin Museum, hoping that it would be opened. Even though it was so overcast, every now and then the sky would clear up and there were big beautiful dramatic clouds. Again, I was simply enjoying walking through Paris, looking at all the beautiful architecture, I can’t think of another way to see Paris…walking, walking, walking! I got to the Rodin Museum and I was so pleased to see that it was open. What a pleasant, peaceful experience, there were still roses in bloom, I could see the dome from the Hotel des Invalides, it was magical. I was amazed that all the sculptures outside in the garden, including the Thinker, were the real thing, and unprotected. I have to say that it was very refreshing to see that such priceless artwork could be seen without barriers. , I had chocolate crepes and coffee at the restaurant in the garden. Despite the darn pigeons who wanted to share the table with me, I was once again soaking in the whole atmosphere. It was peaceful.

Since this is running longer than I thought and I don't want to get cut off and have to re-write a lot -, I will go on to the next message to continue.
lyb is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 04:27 PM
  #28  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Please do Your report is making me sigh...
sfowler is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 05:15 PM
  #29  
 
Join Date: Nov 2005
Posts: 2,860
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
LYB -
I just want to add my thank-you to everyone else's. I am really enjoying your posting! I went to Paris (a life-long dream fulfilled) a few years ago and was not disappointed, in spite of high expectations. There is a reason so many people love that city!

As to rude Frenchmen and women, not a one in sight! And this in spite of my feeble attempts at speaking French (college major - but 30 years ago!!!!). If one wishes to believe the ugly stereotypes, one will find them even where they do not exist. As maitaitom always says: Attitude is everything!
LCBoniti is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 05:22 PM
  #30  
lyb
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
PARIS, TUESDAY, OCT 4 (Cont’d)

Before, I continue, I have an interesting observation, (well, to me, it is) how come cigarette smoke in Europe doesn’t bother me, but it is dreadful in the States? For anyone who knows, are the cigarettes not as strong as in the States? Or….am I just so happy to be on vacation in a lovely city that not much bothers me?

I left the Rodin Museum and went to the Hotel des Invalides. It is quite impressive, it is so grand and I must admit, yes, I like all the gold and glitter, something we don’t have much of in the States. And it is amazing to think that there lies Napoleon, again, I have to write it this way, THE Napoleon!

Before I went in the Church, I had to make a trip to the toilet… I went inside the cafeteria and asked one of the teenagers working there where the toilet was. He pointed me in a direction, and when I went there, I couldn’t find it. So I went back again and told him I was sorry, but I didn’t find it. He yelled back, “I TOLD YOU IT WAS BACK THERE”…Okay, excuse me!!! I went back in that direction and then saw the little arrow pointing down to the stairs. As I walked down the stairs, I thought, “Finally, I found a rude Parisian waiter!”….but then, I thought about it again, and decided that a teenage cafeteria worker didn’t qualify as a rude Parisian waiter! So, my search would simply have to continue!

Now, I was finally heading towards the Eiffel Tower. I was getting hungry for something light and saw a full fledge grocery store and went in to look for a baguette and some brie. Even if I hadn’t been hungry, I would have gone in because it’s now become a tradition with me to go in grocery stores while traveling. A good friend who came to Italy with me loves to go in grocery stores to see the local foods and how things are set up, so now she has me doing it as well. I had my bread and baguette but couldn’t find plastic knives, so I went ahead and bought a souvenir….a knife! Now, when I use it, I always remember that day when I got finally got to the Eiffel Tower, sat on the grass and had my bread and brie. As much as my foot got to feel worse as I hobbled through the streets and made my way to the Tower, I wouldn’t give up the joy of walking through the neighborhoods and seeing all the mothers walking their young children home from school and people greeting each other as they encountered friends on the street.

Because of my foot hurting, I decided not to walk up to the first level of the Eiffel Tower and take the elevator all the way. The elevator was a hoot! Walking around the top was so wonderful, it was cold and overcast but clear enough so that I could see below and recognize the streets that I had just walked around. At the store, I saw a mug that had pictures of the Tower at different stages of construction, my father being the construction and handyman wizard that he is, I knew that he would appreciate this mug. I probably paid more buying it at that store, but I knew that he would enjoy the fact that it came directly from the Tower, so it was worth every Euro.

I finally pulled myself away and it was getting late, almost 7pm, so I decided to make my way back to the hotel. Because of my foot and the time of day, there was no way, I was going to walk back to the hotel. I went down to the Seine where there are several boat tour companies and decided to buy a 2 day pass on the BatoBus, using it tonight as my transportation back to the hotel. I loved seeing Paris from that perspective and though it was just starting to get dark at this point, the next I go to Paris, I will most definitely take a cruise in the evening, I’m sure it is very beautiful!

I got off at the Notre Dame stop, walked up to the street, turned back and saw Notre Dame all lighted up…what a beautiful sight! I stopped in William Shakespeare & Co bookstore, but didn’t go to the second floor….I had made a “few” purchases along the way and my bags were starting to break, I didn’t want to have it break open in the middle of the street and have my gifts break. So I went back to the hotel, and you guessed it…I was pooped! I opened the window, took in the atmosphere from the restaurants below, watched some French TV and mapped my way for the next day and that was it for another full & pleasant day in Paris.
lyb is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 06:00 PM
  #31  
 
Join Date: Nov 2003
Posts: 14,607
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I love this. More.......please?
cmcfong is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 06:17 PM
  #32  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 34,738
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
<i>&quot;....Off of the Blvd St Geramin, I took the Rue du Bac, turned left on Rue de Verneuil, then right on Rue de Poitiers. I list all the streets, because it was such a pleasant walk, again, not touristy streets, the local dry cleaner, butcher, grocery store, etc....&quot;</i>

Exactly the way we feel ! We stay on rue Jacob and have those streets memorized..
Scarlett is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 06:57 PM
  #33  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Thanks for doing this great report! I am one of those people who don't think I could write a good report, so have never posted one - but I do enjoy reading them! I have been to Paris 5 times and can't wait to go back. I think I will finally get to do my &quot;alone trip&quot; next year. Reading your report is reinforcing why I want to go alone - to be on my own schedule and to wander, somewhat aimlessly!, down the small streets and get an inkling of what it would be like to live there. I like visiting the grocery stores also! Some people don't understand why, but I enjoy seeing what is different, what is the same, what things cost, etc. Looking forward to your next installments!
cls2paris is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 07:09 PM
  #34  
 
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 1,735
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I just got back from Paris last night so I am a lot jet lagged. Did I miss the steps to Notre Dame? Are you thinking about steps into Sacrecur (sp)?

Where was your best meal. THAT IS WHY I WOULD MOVE TO PARIS.

Do not understand how their are not more obese people there. I was a complete glutten while I was there more so than I think I have ever been in my entire life LOL! True! I can't believe I survived and do not find myself a diabetic or any other number of illnesses from non stop, cream, sugar, red meat and bread.
Sarah is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 07:14 PM
  #35  
 
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 1,577
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
Sarah - the steps to climb Notre Dame are outside - if you are facing the front doors, they are on the left corner. It is so worth the effort to make the climb! I've been to the bell tower level a couple times and once went up to the highest level (more steps!) but that part was closed the last time I was there. It was great to see the gargoyles up close - and the view was awesome. I'm doing the arc d'Triomphe on my next trip!
cls2paris is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 07:47 PM
  #36  
 
Join Date: Jul 2005
Posts: 122
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
This is such a lovely read!Havent been able to look in on Fodors lately, but after a rough couple of weeks, it is a delight to read of my beloved Paris!!

Lyb, it is great reliving the streets I am familiar with and hearing your enjoyment of the same things. I was there last June but it feels like a century ago now!!

What happened with your foot? Such a lot of walking on a sore foot!!!!





EmBee is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 08:00 PM
  #37  
lyb
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
PARIS, WEDNESDAY, OCT 5

A return to the Eiffel Tower via the BatoBus, Trocadero, D’Orsay Museum

Today, I slept in, not on purpose, I woke up late at 9am…I usually sleep in all the time at home, but while on vacation, I don’t want to waste time sleeping, so I usually try to be out and about by 9:30am at the latest…not today though. I had my breakfast, an almond croissant and coffee at a small bakery up the street called La Boulangerie de Papa. I sat outside and decided that today felt colder than yesterday and the scarf I had bought wasn’t going to keep me warm. So I went on a hunt for a warmer scarf and gloves.

I went back to the Ile de la Cite to find the store I had bought my other scarf, but didn’t find it, which was probably better, I found another store after walking through some of the residential streets of the cite and finally bought a very warm wool scarf and some gloves….. My mom had asked me before I left on my trip if it ever snowed in Paris, today, I started thinking that today could be the day.

I then got on the BatoBus and went back the Eiffel Tower, to take a few more pictures and to go to the Jardin du Trocadero. As some of you who have seen my photos, I really liked both of the carrousels, the Carrousel de la Tour Eiffel and the Carrousel de Paris. I took several pictures of the carrousels, and of this little girl with her mother. I put her picture on my photo gallery, because she was the absolute picture of what people think of when Parisian women are mentioned…except she was maybe 4 - 5 years old…that little girl will be one stylish woman when she grows up.

I had some “frites’ at the Carrousel snack bar and walked over to the Trocadero. Unfortunately, it was so overcast and dark that the view wasn’t as striking as all the pictures seen from that angle. The Palais de Chaillot itself was interesting with all the sculptures and those darn attack pigeons! Finally, I was able to capture them on film. I set up my mini-tripod and waited for them to come close, which they did, they truly have no fear, do they?

Afterwards, I walked back to the BatoBus stop, but before, I stopped at the little booth nearby and had a hot chocolate, it was actually my 3rd! I had one the evening before when I took the boat, one when I got there that morning and now another. What can I say? It was cold and the chocolate was smooth…it was a good excuse I hardly ever have hot chocolate at home, but it tasted so much better in Paris. A funny thing about the hot chocolate, which I didn’t realize until I started sorting through my pictures, if you look carefully on the 89th picture, on page 2 of my Paris pictures, entitled “On the BatoBus leaving the Eiffel Tower …..” you’ll see a “discoloration” on the middle of my nose…that’s not “discoloration”, that’s hot chocolate on my nose!!! Yep, I walked around Paris with hot chocolate on my nose!!!! And who knows how long it was there!

Perhaps it was still there, when I stopped at the D’Orsay Museum? God, I hope not.

On to the next posting for the rest of the day.
lyb is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 08:02 PM
  #38  
lyb
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
I forgot to mention...I woke up in the morning and miraculously my foot didn't hurt anymore. I think that I had some kind of pinched nerve and I literally walked it off....thankfully!
lyb is offline  
Old Nov 28th, 2005, 08:45 PM
  #39  
lyb
Original Poster
 
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 2,142
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
PARIS, WEDNESDAY, OCT 5 (cont’d)

The line at the D’Orsay wasn’t too bad, it looked worse than it actually was. I thought it was going to be a long wait, but I was inside within 15 – 20 minutes. The building itself is worth a visit, and of course, looking at Paris through the giant clock is almost obligatory. I like the impressionists, so I went directly the 5th floor, if I remember correctly, and saw the Monets, Manets, Toulouse-Lautrec, Renoir, Cezanne, Degas and others. I found a couple of new artists that I had never heard of that I really liked and will certainly look around to buy posters of their work, they are Paul Signac and Henri-Edmond Cross.

After all this art, I was in need of a refreshment, I went to The Mus&eacute;e d'Orsay Restaurant, the decoration is turn of the 19th century and was very elegant. Lots of chandeliers and light green wicker furniture, I felt as though I was in the middle of an Edith Wharton novel and should be wearing an ivory linen dress and a beautiful hat. I had a raspberry tart with a small fly in it. Yes, “waiter, there’s a fly in my tart!”. Unfortunately, the waiting staff was a little confused and first had brought me someone’s else order and forgot that I had ordered tea along my tart, so when I saw the tiny fly..almost a gnat, I didn’t want to bother calling him over and getting another. I simply removed it and the berry it was on and ate the rest. I can’t believe I did that, I certainly wouldn’t have been that relaxed at home….I guess being on vacation does do wonder for my attitude. Afterwards, I bought several postcards of the artwork that I had liked and kept looking through the store until the announcement came that the museum was closing.

I took the BatoBus back to the Latin Quarter and went back to William Shakespeare &amp; Co. This time I did go the second floor and looked around. How fun to see everyone lying around the beds with cats here and there, and the small kitchen. That would be my dream to own such a store.

That night, I think I was fully on Parisian time and wasn’t tired so I finally went out to dinner. The good thing about staying where I was, and being alone, it was easy to go out at night, walk around and find a restaurant. After I had dropped off my packages at the hotel, I went out and walked around the Blvd St Michel, then headed back to the pedestrian area where I was staying and found an internet caf&eacute;. I stopped in and sent an email back home. The keyboard was set up slightly different than the American ones, and it was a bit of a challenge to type at a regular speed, but since the minimum I could buy was an hour, I had plenty of time.

I then went to dinner at the Caf&eacute; St Severin, the Seine was just across the street to the right, there was a lot of action going on, it was great people watching. The restaurant had outside heaters and it felt so good sitting outside and being able to take off my coat while eating and writing in my journal. I had Penne Carbonara and a green salad. This is when I realized that either all the food in Paris was tasty, or because I was outside all day, everything tasted good. I’ll admit I’m not at all a foodie, but I really enjoyed everything I ate while I was in Paris.

That evening, I also decided that I was definitely not going to Versailles. I had originally planned on going, but there was so much more I wanted to see in Paris that Versailles would have to wait until my next visit.

Tomorrow, I’ll tell you all about my last full day in Paris.
lyb is offline  
Old Nov 29th, 2005, 12:10 AM
  #40  
 
Join Date: Oct 2005
Posts: 67
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes on 0 Posts
i wondered about that spot on your nose!

at the internet cafes can't they change the setting on the computer to make the keyboard work work like an American keyboard?

loving your report, lyb. you have me remininscing about my last trip to Paris and dreaming of my next one
kahern is offline  


Contact Us - Manage Preferences - Archive - Advertising - Cookie Policy - Privacy Statement - Do Not Sell or Share My Personal Information -