My husband and I are hut to hut hiking in Switzerland then heading down to the Cinque Terre. Where should we stay??? We are considering Monerrosso or Vernazza area. We like uncrowded places, beautiful beaches, snorkeling, and prefer a place with a sea view. We want to do more hiking here, wine tasting and in general, enjoy the people, the scenery and relax. We don't mind paying extra for a splurge for this part of our trip. Since we are spending several nights here, we don't want to get the lodging selection wrong. What can you suggest? I've heard Hotel Portico is nice, but some have stated the rooms are small and the quality inconsistent. We don't mind climbing steps if the view is worth it. I don't think any places have pools, if so, we'd want to have a place to swim. Ideas for me? We also prefer a bed and breakfast, family owned lodging selection, rather than a larger establishment.

Why don't you check out Cenobbio al Doge in Camogli? You can hike the Portofino peninsula, with its spectacular views, and snorkle in the nationally protected waters around Camogli and the peninsula. The hotel is 4-star luxury, and has a pool. You can take a train to visit Cinque Terra to see what all the fuss is about, but Camogli is a far less crowded destination.

La Casmona (with a terrace) is also a charming 3-star, but with far fewer amenities. If you do a google-search for Camogli bed and breakfasts, you might get a few hits there, too.

However, if you are looking forward to spending your evening chatting with fellow travelers, Cinque Terre has more people hanging around!

The spelling of the hotel in Camogli is Cenobio dei Dogi. Sorry!

If you prefer a bed and breakfast, Cenobio dei Doge may not be for you, but, if you change your mind, I think you would like Camogli and this hotel...it has a spectacular location, lovely staff, and an amazing view...the dining room has all glass walls that overlook the water and small beach...and you won't soon forget the setting of their pool, especially at the end of the day when the sun sets....not in CT, but not far with train station a walk away...we have stayed many times and will go again this fall...highly recommended..

If you like uncrowded places, I don't think 5Terre is for you, because it is very crowded. Of course, it's long on great food, hiking, scenery, etc.
That being said, the only "luxury" hotel I know of in Monterosso is the Porto Roca. I haven't stayed there but it was high up on a hill and I'm sure the views are outstanding.I think it also might have a pool.
For a wonderful, family run place with beautiful views I can recommend the Villa Steno in Monterosso. It's not "luxury", but very comfortable and many rooms have large terraces with lovely views. It has a garden filled with roses, lemon trees and bouganvilla (sp?). I stayed there and loved it.
Of the towns in 5T, Monterosso has the largest waterfront.
There are places you can stop for a swim along some of the trails.

You might also consider Santa Margherita Ligure, on the train line north of CT and south of Camogli. I haven't stayed there but there are a couple of good looking hotels there. And others who have stayed in SML have really liked it.

Another vote for Hotel Villa Steno in Monterosso. Carla and Matteo (owners) are wonderful as is the entire Pasini family. We have visited the CT 4 times since 2000 and this is our favorite place to stay.

The Porta Roca is your only option actually in the CT. However, here is a new place that looks good:
www.ilgigantecinqueterre.it

If you want "uncrowded" you won't find it there in the summer months, but Manarola or Riomaggiore will be less crowded than Monterosso and especially Vernazza. And don't expect "beautiful beaches". CT's beaches are smaller, cove-type and will be crowded with people and cigarette butts in summer. Not sure you can snorkle there either.

CT's fantastic for hiking, seaside views, food and local wine though.

We did stay at Cenobio dei Dogi in Camogli. It was nice. The views from the hotel were great - right on the water. We loved the town of Camogli because it was NOT touristy at all! We never even made it to Portofino because we loved it hear so much. It was an easy train ride (about 1 1/4 hour) to Cinque Terre. I don't know that I would call the hotel "luxury", but it was very nice.

We enjoyed our stay at Hotle Porto Roca in Monterosso. The views were beautiful and the food among the best we had in Italy.

My husband and I have been to Camogli for many years running. Stopping by Cenobio dei Dogi for a drink on the terrace at sunset is about as close as the two of us get to religious ritual!

Just wanted to add again that while I have not done any snorkeling, I have seen people snorkeling in the pristine waters at Camogli. And I've noticed before there is a scuba diving school in Camogli:

http://www.bbdiving.it/en/start1024.html

Is that beach at Cenobio dei Dogi a swimming beach? Or is there one nearby where we could swim? Thanks.

There are always people swimming in the water...however, the beach is all pebbles..it doesn't seem to bother the beachgoers though...

Thank you for responding. So we could wear sandals on the pebble beach, I think. Do you see people actually swimming out, or just standing in the water? My husband is a serious swimmer, and I'm trying to find him some nice water after our next time in Switzerland. I have pretty much the same request as the OP; just want to be sure there is actual swimming available. I will start researching this village on-line; I hadn't even heard of it. That's why this board is so great.

I think sandals or flip flops are fine....the people I saw were swimming, not just wading...water is beautiful, clear, and fairly calm in that area..

People definitely go swimming. One morning I sat on my terrace in Camogli (hey, that is so great to say: MY terrace) and watched a very fit Italian man of 60 swim out and do laps for about an hour. (Me, I just splash around in the shallow end.)

You definitely want aquashoes. Camogli is a true Italian beach town, so if you are there in summer, you can buy sandals there or a beach chair for a few euros from any number of colorful kiosks.

...and, there are no "knit suits" for miles and miles.....

CT is good for the one day walk through all five villages. it is a very nice walk. other than that, CT has little to offer in my opinion. the restaurants are very poor as compared to most other areas in italy. i would not spend a long time there. i think 2 nights is ideal because this gives you one full day to do the walk. after that, you are better off just about anywhere else in italy. if you don't spend much time in europe, you will probably be fine with the beaches and the general environment there but otherwise, you will probably be wanting more after two or so days.

I love this knit suit thing between you two. One of my favorite memories from Venice was when my husband and I were walking back through a neighborhood on Giudecca, where my husband went for his workout in the public pool there. A lovely lady, 65 or so, stopped us to tell about a building we were photographing. She was truly "la bella figura" in her trim double-knit wool suit, in a shade of dark brick-red. She told us that the building used to be a mill or a shop where they made either the cloth or the clothing such as hers (she referred to her own suit), and she used to work there when she was young. I only understood about half of what she said, but that was the gist of it. Her last sentence, said with a shake of her head, was ". . .and now it's all houses, houses. . . "