Loving Northern Portugal – and living to report about it
Mar 25th, 2024, 06:00 AM
#41
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Although the weather was iffy, we decided to take a one-hour boat ride with Magnifico Douro to see the river up close and the scenery from a different angle. Fortunately, the boat had an enclosure and blankets (also, complimentary glasses of port!). This being low season, it was just us and one other couple.
The Douro from a boat
The area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and development is highly restricted. Besides wine, it is also a major center for olive oil.
Just a few other boats on the river on this iffy weather day.
The Pinhao train station is noted for its painted tile.
The challenges of driving in and around Pinhao
We wanted to do a little wine and port tasting, within reason, but I’ll admit to not being sure of the best way to go about that. We didn’t really want a tour that went from place to place to place and no elaborate lunches - just a small tasting here or there. I did quite a bit of research in advance and had a list of Quintas and tasting rooms, with opening hours, experiences/costs, and reservation details. It appeared that reservations were essential for some places and advisable for others. Some had easy online booking capabilities; others required calling or emailing. In particular, I earmarked a couple that looked like they’d be conducive to walk-ins, given the low season, and confirmed that with our hosts. This way, we could maintain some flexibility in our schedule. In addition, Chanceleiros made a 3pm tour/tasting reservation for us at the adjacent property, Quinta do Infantado, which is a convenient five-minute walk down the hill from our estate.
We did a small tasting for two at Quinta do Jallado, which has an amazing site at the top of the hill above Pinhao. It has a lovely large tasting room and terrace (also snacks to enjoy with the wine). We were the only visitors that day, and there had only been one couple the day before.
Quinta do Infantado is next door to our estate and an easy walk. Our host arranged for a private tour and tasting. This estate produces about 75% port but also some nice wines.
Tasting at Quinta do Infantado. This was just the start - there were plenty more to come, including a 50 y/o port (good that we were on foot!)
The Douro from a boat
The area is a UNESCO World Heritage Site and development is highly restricted. Besides wine, it is also a major center for olive oil.
Just a few other boats on the river on this iffy weather day.
The Pinhao train station is noted for its painted tile.
The challenges of driving in and around Pinhao
We wanted to do a little wine and port tasting, within reason, but I’ll admit to not being sure of the best way to go about that. We didn’t really want a tour that went from place to place to place and no elaborate lunches - just a small tasting here or there. I did quite a bit of research in advance and had a list of Quintas and tasting rooms, with opening hours, experiences/costs, and reservation details. It appeared that reservations were essential for some places and advisable for others. Some had easy online booking capabilities; others required calling or emailing. In particular, I earmarked a couple that looked like they’d be conducive to walk-ins, given the low season, and confirmed that with our hosts. This way, we could maintain some flexibility in our schedule. In addition, Chanceleiros made a 3pm tour/tasting reservation for us at the adjacent property, Quinta do Infantado, which is a convenient five-minute walk down the hill from our estate.
We did a small tasting for two at Quinta do Jallado, which has an amazing site at the top of the hill above Pinhao. It has a lovely large tasting room and terrace (also snacks to enjoy with the wine). We were the only visitors that day, and there had only been one couple the day before.
Quinta do Infantado is next door to our estate and an easy walk. Our host arranged for a private tour and tasting. This estate produces about 75% port but also some nice wines.
Tasting at Quinta do Infantado. This was just the start - there were plenty more to come, including a 50 y/o port (good that we were on foot!)
Mar 25th, 2024, 04:16 PM
#42
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Last full day in Portugal…
We had various options for the day, which was again a little iffy in the weather department. Overnight, there had been snow at slightly higher elevations. We could see it in the distance from our terrace, and it was all over the news. The temps and prospects for rain ruled out what we really wanted to do: hike in the vineyards.
Other options: More tasting – but certainly not an all-day activity! The museum of port-making history in Peso da Regua. Or the town of Lamego, 30-40 minutes from Pinahão – known for its Baroque staircase to the Nossa Senhora dos Remédios church and as the site where the first king of Portugal was crowned in 1139.
Yes, that's snow on the top of the hills in the distance
We arrived in Lamego just as the rain passed
Baroque stairway to Nossa Senhora dos Remédios church
Nossa Senhora dos Remédios church
Inside the old city walls, on the way up to the castle
Lamego Castle was built in the 12th Century on the highest point of the city
You can also visit the medieval cistern
Street art (because we have a black cat)
The Romanesque Lamego Cathedral dates to the late 12th Century, although little remains of the original structure
Door of Lamego Cathedral
Looking back up the hill from the city center
The drive back to Pinhao along the Douro (fortunately in the sun, this time)
On the way back, we stopped for one last tasting at Quinta das Carvalhas, which is just across the bridge and down the road from Chanceleiros. Again, we walked in to a fairly empty tasting room, but I’m not sure whether this is possible or advisable outside of low season. Carvalhas is part of the largest wine-producing entity that is still under Portuguese ownership. The estate dates to the early 18thCentury. Needless to say, the tasting room occupies a prime spot on the river.
Tasting at Quinta das Carvalhas
Then we took the party back to our terrace
Last delectable dessert at Chanceleiros
We had various options for the day, which was again a little iffy in the weather department. Overnight, there had been snow at slightly higher elevations. We could see it in the distance from our terrace, and it was all over the news. The temps and prospects for rain ruled out what we really wanted to do: hike in the vineyards.
Other options: More tasting – but certainly not an all-day activity! The museum of port-making history in Peso da Regua. Or the town of Lamego, 30-40 minutes from Pinahão – known for its Baroque staircase to the Nossa Senhora dos Remédios church and as the site where the first king of Portugal was crowned in 1139.
Yes, that's snow on the top of the hills in the distance
We arrived in Lamego just as the rain passed
Baroque stairway to Nossa Senhora dos Remédios church
Nossa Senhora dos Remédios church
Inside the old city walls, on the way up to the castle
Lamego Castle was built in the 12th Century on the highest point of the city
You can also visit the medieval cistern
Street art (because we have a black cat)
The Romanesque Lamego Cathedral dates to the late 12th Century, although little remains of the original structure
Door of Lamego Cathedral
Looking back up the hill from the city center
The drive back to Pinhao along the Douro (fortunately in the sun, this time)
On the way back, we stopped for one last tasting at Quinta das Carvalhas, which is just across the bridge and down the road from Chanceleiros. Again, we walked in to a fairly empty tasting room, but I’m not sure whether this is possible or advisable outside of low season. Carvalhas is part of the largest wine-producing entity that is still under Portuguese ownership. The estate dates to the early 18thCentury. Needless to say, the tasting room occupies a prime spot on the river.
Tasting at Quinta das Carvalhas
Then we took the party back to our terrace
Last delectable dessert at Chanceleiros
Mar 25th, 2024, 05:10 PM
#43
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Our flight out of Porto was at 7:40 pm. That meant we could pack up and check out at a leisurely pace before heading west toward Porto (~2 hour drive). To fill some time, we planned a stop at Viana do Castelo, about 30 minutes north of the Porto airport. While there’s a lot to see in the medieval center, we ended up being shorter on time than we thought. We parked at the Pousada Viana do Castelo, which has a terrific view over the Basilica de Santa Luzia, the town, and the river and coast. We booked a late, 2 pm lunch at the pousada, figuring we would not get another meal with an evening flight to Zurich in economy (anything more than water costs $$) and an arrival well after the hotel restaurant closed for the evening.
Saying goodbye to our new friends
There are some seriously big highway bridges through this area (have I mentioned I'm afraid of heights)
Basilica de Santa Luzia, Viano do Castelo
View of the basilica from the Pousada Viano do Castelo
One last caldo verde, and probably the best of the trip - actually all the food at the posada was good
View from the pousada
SWISS sent notifications that the flight was full and most carry-ons would need to be checked. So, we went to the counter to do so – and were completely and very pleasantly surprised when the agent informed us that we’d been upgraded to business class for the 2.5-hour flight to Zurich. A nice ending to the trip.
I’ll come back this week and add some final thoughts.
Saying goodbye to our new friends
There are some seriously big highway bridges through this area (have I mentioned I'm afraid of heights)
Basilica de Santa Luzia, Viano do Castelo
View of the basilica from the Pousada Viano do Castelo
One last caldo verde, and probably the best of the trip - actually all the food at the posada was good
View from the pousada
SWISS sent notifications that the flight was full and most carry-ons would need to be checked. So, we went to the counter to do so – and were completely and very pleasantly surprised when the agent informed us that we’d been upgraded to business class for the 2.5-hour flight to Zurich. A nice ending to the trip.
I’ll come back this week and add some final thoughts.
Mar 26th, 2024, 04:47 AM
#45
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I love Casa do Visconde de Chanceleiros! Will make a note of that for a, hopefully, future trip. Maribel certainly gives awesome advice!
I love all your photos of the Douro. I am amazed that there is so much greenery in February. I would have expected more brown. And that last delectable dessert is to die for! Right up my alley.
Haven't read your last installment yet but I will.
I love all your photos of the Douro. I am amazed that there is so much greenery in February. I would have expected more brown. And that last delectable dessert is to die for! Right up my alley.
Haven't read your last installment yet but I will.
Apr 14th, 2024, 06:15 AM
#47
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, mama_mia, KarenWoo and Adelaidean. I have been back here in a few weeks (work...) and didn't see your posts.
I have a personal rule that if I start a trip report, I have to finish it. So that I can say I did…
Our travel home from Zurich was uneventful. The Senator Lounge in the non-Schengen concourse is one of my favorites. It’s huge, with outdoor seating, a view of the Alps in the distance and a large whiskey bar—although we only ever seem to be there for short periods early in the morning. We actually landed at O’Hare over an hour early and were home at by our scheduled arrival time.
If doing this over again, would we go at time with better weather or stick with low season?
As the saying goes, there’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear. While the weather wasn’t ideal, it didn’t ruin the trip for us. We still got in plenty of outside time (although no hiking in the Douro vineyards, sadly). So, I’d probably stick with low season for smaller crowds, which allowed more flexibility in our schedule – i.e., we didn’t have to book too much ahead of time. Porto already seemed to be bustling at the beginning of March. I should add that our previous trips to Lisbon was in early January, and we had lovely (if not extremely warm) weather.
Would we do anything different with our itinerary?
In hindsight, no, other than more time—which, unfortunately isn’t always an option for us. I would have liked another day in Porto (assuming good weather, of course). There’s always a temptation to try to see as much as possible. We had our eyes on Coimbra and Viseu—but we’ve been trying to work toward a “less is more” approach when planning trips, so we ultimately kept this trip to a relatively small area. That reduced the travel time and stresses. Portugal is a small country, but rich in experiences worth slowing down a bit to enjoy. There will just have to be a third trip sometime to visit areas between Porto and Lisbon.
Braga vs. Guimaraes—and how much time there?
I’d say coin flip. Both have mostly pedestrianized city centers, and both are nice in their own ways. Guimaraes seems like it is probably more tourist-centric, although both were fairly quiet in that regard when we were there. We enjoyed the overall vibe of Braga, especially in the evenings. Someone we talked with in Porto told us that three nights was too much for this area—most people see both cities in one day. We respectfully disagree. In fact, with another (good weather) day, we likely would have taken a drive to the Parque Nacional Peneda-Gerês.
Is a car necessary?
No, we could have done this trip without one. That said, it would have added to the logistics and travel time between destinations. And it would have been harder – if not impossible – to stop in some of the smaller cities/towns such as Amarante, Lamego, or Barcelos, all of which added something to our overall experience. FWIW, we used Uber several times in Porto with no issues.
How was the driving?
Not bad – says the one who wasn’t actually driving (but I was constantly navigating with Apple Maps). Of course, we didn’t try to drive in Porto, but we found it fairly easy to get through smaller cities (e.g., Lamego) with GPS. We do our research ahead on where to park, which alleviates some stress. There are some very nice highways with not a lot of traffic. Our rental car came with a toll transponder, so we could use the green lanes on the highways. We had a diesel car and only filled up once at the end of the trip.
Money/cash
We’ve taken some trips recently where we barely needed any cash – if any at all (e.g., New Zealand, Belgium/Netherlands). Here, we actually had to hit the ATM a couple times. Some smaller restaurants, especially in smaller towns, don’t take credit cards. Also, our quinta tour in the Douro Valley was cash-only. Note that there are only a few ATMs in Pinahão, and the day we needed cash, two were out of service and one was out of cash (fortunately restocked later that day).
And that’s about it. Thanks to all who have posted reports or advice over the last few years. We likely pulled ideas from your posts. Hope this has some useful information for others traveling to the area in the future.
I have a personal rule that if I start a trip report, I have to finish it. So that I can say I did…
Our travel home from Zurich was uneventful. The Senator Lounge in the non-Schengen concourse is one of my favorites. It’s huge, with outdoor seating, a view of the Alps in the distance and a large whiskey bar—although we only ever seem to be there for short periods early in the morning. We actually landed at O’Hare over an hour early and were home at by our scheduled arrival time.
If doing this over again, would we go at time with better weather or stick with low season?
As the saying goes, there’s no such thing as bad weather, just bad gear. While the weather wasn’t ideal, it didn’t ruin the trip for us. We still got in plenty of outside time (although no hiking in the Douro vineyards, sadly). So, I’d probably stick with low season for smaller crowds, which allowed more flexibility in our schedule – i.e., we didn’t have to book too much ahead of time. Porto already seemed to be bustling at the beginning of March. I should add that our previous trips to Lisbon was in early January, and we had lovely (if not extremely warm) weather.
Would we do anything different with our itinerary?
In hindsight, no, other than more time—which, unfortunately isn’t always an option for us. I would have liked another day in Porto (assuming good weather, of course). There’s always a temptation to try to see as much as possible. We had our eyes on Coimbra and Viseu—but we’ve been trying to work toward a “less is more” approach when planning trips, so we ultimately kept this trip to a relatively small area. That reduced the travel time and stresses. Portugal is a small country, but rich in experiences worth slowing down a bit to enjoy. There will just have to be a third trip sometime to visit areas between Porto and Lisbon.
Braga vs. Guimaraes—and how much time there?
I’d say coin flip. Both have mostly pedestrianized city centers, and both are nice in their own ways. Guimaraes seems like it is probably more tourist-centric, although both were fairly quiet in that regard when we were there. We enjoyed the overall vibe of Braga, especially in the evenings. Someone we talked with in Porto told us that three nights was too much for this area—most people see both cities in one day. We respectfully disagree. In fact, with another (good weather) day, we likely would have taken a drive to the Parque Nacional Peneda-Gerês.
Is a car necessary?
No, we could have done this trip without one. That said, it would have added to the logistics and travel time between destinations. And it would have been harder – if not impossible – to stop in some of the smaller cities/towns such as Amarante, Lamego, or Barcelos, all of which added something to our overall experience. FWIW, we used Uber several times in Porto with no issues.
How was the driving?
Not bad – says the one who wasn’t actually driving (but I was constantly navigating with Apple Maps). Of course, we didn’t try to drive in Porto, but we found it fairly easy to get through smaller cities (e.g., Lamego) with GPS. We do our research ahead on where to park, which alleviates some stress. There are some very nice highways with not a lot of traffic. Our rental car came with a toll transponder, so we could use the green lanes on the highways. We had a diesel car and only filled up once at the end of the trip.
Money/cash
We’ve taken some trips recently where we barely needed any cash – if any at all (e.g., New Zealand, Belgium/Netherlands). Here, we actually had to hit the ATM a couple times. Some smaller restaurants, especially in smaller towns, don’t take credit cards. Also, our quinta tour in the Douro Valley was cash-only. Note that there are only a few ATMs in Pinahão, and the day we needed cash, two were out of service and one was out of cash (fortunately restocked later that day).
And that’s about it. Thanks to all who have posted reports or advice over the last few years. We likely pulled ideas from your posts. Hope this has some useful information for others traveling to the area in the future.
Apr 14th, 2024, 06:25 AM
#48
The Senator Lounge in the non-Schengen concourse is one of my favorites.
Mine too! Spouse finally got a chance to try that Whisky Bar a few months back as we had a later than usual flight out. He sampled a few, and was quite impressed with their huge assortment.
Thoroughly enjoyed your report!
Mine too! Spouse finally got a chance to try that Whisky Bar a few months back as we had a later than usual flight out. He sampled a few, and was quite impressed with their huge assortment.
Thoroughly enjoyed your report!
Apr 14th, 2024, 11:10 AM
#49
Join Date: Mar 2014
Posts: 4,418
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I really enjoyed your report, and I find it to be very helpful if we make a return trip to Portugal, which I hope we do. Would love to see Porto, Braga, Guimares, and the Douro Valley, along with Evora, the Alentejo....maybe the Algarve.
And I also appreciate your summary, and I agree with your comment about not seeing Braga and Guimares in one day. If at all possible, we prefer to spend at least a night or two somewhere instead of doing a daytrip. One needs to spend more time in a place to appreciate the ambiance of that place. I know we enjoyed and appreciated places like Toledo, Cordoba, and Cesky Krumlov more by spending a night or two.
And I also appreciate your summary, and I agree with your comment about not seeing Braga and Guimares in one day. If at all possible, we prefer to spend at least a night or two somewhere instead of doing a daytrip. One needs to spend more time in a place to appreciate the ambiance of that place. I know we enjoyed and appreciated places like Toledo, Cordoba, and Cesky Krumlov more by spending a night or two.
Apr 14th, 2024, 04:20 PM
#50
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I haven't seen this until now...
Loved, loved your TR and the photos. Lots of memories, and a confirmation that we need to go back. We were lucky, we had wonderful weather in Sept/Oct 2022.
Was the barrel sauna at Casa Visconde de Chanceleiros open?
Loved, loved your TR and the photos. Lots of memories, and a confirmation that we need to go back. We were lucky, we had wonderful weather in Sept/Oct 2022.
Was the barrel sauna at Casa Visconde de Chanceleiros open?
Apr 15th, 2024, 01:59 PM
#51
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, all! Glad you enjoyed the report. We enjoyed the trip. It seems like ages ago now, as we've been home over a month.
Melnq8: I wish Zurich came up more often as a viable connection. But with four flights per day between Chicago and Frankfurt, that's where we usually end up. Zurich is a much nicer experience.
KarenWoo: Funny you mention Toledo. I've been there twice, both on day trips - and both times on weekends, which isn't great. I've been saying that I need to spend a few nights there to really enjoy and appreciate it.
xyz99: No, I don't think the sauna was opened - or at least, they never mentioned it. It was very quiet while we were there, with just two rooms occupied each night and no one booked the day we left. We were told it would start to pick up by the end of March.
Melnq8: I wish Zurich came up more often as a viable connection. But with four flights per day between Chicago and Frankfurt, that's where we usually end up. Zurich is a much nicer experience.
KarenWoo: Funny you mention Toledo. I've been there twice, both on day trips - and both times on weekends, which isn't great. I've been saying that I need to spend a few nights there to really enjoy and appreciate it.
xyz99: No, I don't think the sauna was opened - or at least, they never mentioned it. It was very quiet while we were there, with just two rooms occupied each night and no one booked the day we left. We were told it would start to pick up by the end of March.
Apr 15th, 2024, 03:30 PM
#52
Join Date: Mar 2024
Posts: 7
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
ms_go,
Thank you so much for such a wonderful TR. Your photos were excellent. I am leaving for Lisbon & Porto this coming November and I have cut and paste lots of your info as reference. Thanks again.
Thank you so much for such a wonderful TR. Your photos were excellent. I am leaving for Lisbon & Porto this coming November and I have cut and paste lots of your info as reference. Thanks again.
Apr 15th, 2024, 05:05 PM
#53
Join Date: Sep 2003
Posts: 2,362
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Apr 23rd, 2024, 06:05 PM
#54
Join Date: Jul 2022
Posts: 8
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for your detailed trip report and great pics! We are traveling to Portugal this October and plan on spending 2 nights at Visconde de Chanceleiros. We are traveling by train so will either have to take taxis to visit Quintas or book a tour. Question; did each Quinta have a charge for tastings? I checked some of their websites but could not find out if they do and how much it is. Thanks again!
Apr 23rd, 2024, 07:17 PM
#55
Original Poster
Join Date: Jan 2004
Posts: 3,412
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks, eshamdas! Sorry just seeing your post. I'm glad it was helpful, and I hope you have a great trip!
xyz99, Someday! So many places to go and so little time.
quinmj57, Thank you. I hope you love your stay at Chanceleiros as much as we did. Give the bulldogs a pat from us. To answer your question, yes we did pay for tastings. I don't remember all of the specifics, but I have the following from our credit card statements:
Quevado (Gaia): $45 (two tastings of 3-4 each, but this also includes a bottle that we bought)
Quinta das Carvalhas: $38 (two tastings of ~4 each)
Quinta do Jalloto: $51 (two tastings of 4-5 each, but also includes some appetizers to go with the wine)
Quinta do Infantado: paid in cash but I think was around 50 euro, also included a private tour (we were there for two hours)
xyz99, Someday! So many places to go and so little time.
quinmj57, Thank you. I hope you love your stay at Chanceleiros as much as we did. Give the bulldogs a pat from us. To answer your question, yes we did pay for tastings. I don't remember all of the specifics, but I have the following from our credit card statements:
Quevado (Gaia): $45 (two tastings of 3-4 each, but this also includes a bottle that we bought)
Quinta das Carvalhas: $38 (two tastings of ~4 each)
Quinta do Jalloto: $51 (two tastings of 4-5 each, but also includes some appetizers to go with the wine)
Quinta do Infantado: paid in cash but I think was around 50 euro, also included a private tour (we were there for two hours)
