Geonev

I'm trying to put together a 12-night itinerary mostly centered in eastern Italy but also perhaps including bits of adjacent Slovenia and Austria. Or perhaps not, if there is enough in this corner of Italy to keep us occupied.

By eastern Italy, I mean Friuli Venezia Giulia, roughly the part north of Trieste up to the Austrian border, and west a bit, but not including Trentino (Trento and vicinity) and Sudtirol (as we have already spent time there). Thus, for instance, we would exclude Cortina and points west. We also would exclude Venice.

Our interests: pretty villages, medieval towns, elegant architecture of any kind, Roman monuments, food and wine, churches and art (both in museums and in churches) and outdoor markets. We have a copy of Fodor's "Italy" book and have ordered "Venice and the best of Northern Italy" but have not received it yet.

We probably would fly into-out of Venice or Trieste, or in one and out the other. We will have a car and are comfortable with driving in Italy. Normally we like to spend two to three nights in each town/village in order to explore the town itself and to make day trips. That means three to five towns as centers, with trips to nearby sights.

I would welcome suggestions of places to visit as well as towns to sleep in. As examples, here are some of the places I think we may/will want to visit:

Udine, Cividale, Aquileia, Grado, Cormons, Fagagna, Gemona, Sauris and Sappada. We also may visit Trieste, but it is not my favorite Italian city and we probably don't want to overnight there. And finally, if Friuli Venezia Giulia doesn't have enough to keep us busy for 12 days, we would consider crossing the border into Austria or Slovenia.

So, thoughts, Fodorites? Thank you in advance.

ekc

We spent several nights just outside Cormons (at Russiz Superiore) and LOVED the area! We drove everywhere, visiting cheesemakers, prosciutto makers, a vinegar maker (Mr. Sirk of Subida fame), hanging out at the enoteca, exploring some of the wonderfully-organized and mapped hiking trails. We easily could have spent a week there. We even drove 15 minutes to Slovenia for dinner one night.

We visited Cividale one day and loved it - such an enchanting village. The mosaics at Aquileia were astounding. I would look at staying at Castello di Sotto (evidently they have rooms for rent) as it was absolutely charming.

Unfortunately, for a variety of reasons we missed Udine and really regret it.

We also stayed for several days in Asolo and had a marvelous time exploring that area also (and taking a day trip to Amarone country for wine-tasting).

If you are not in a rush and embrace a slower pace of travel/life, I think 12 days in the area would be wonderful.

zeppole

I suggest you also include Palmanova and Gorizia in your itinerary, and perhaps Arte Terme and towns near Tolmezzo. If you like wine and history, the entire area around the Isonzo river near Gorizia might fascinate you.

Investing in Fred Plotkin's book about the region ("La Terra Fortunata") is very worthwhile if you can find a used copy. You might also want to take a look at this if you haven't before:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...p-to-italy.cfm

Udine, Civedale dei Fruili and Aquiliea all have museums that are full of interest (I especially enjoyed the paleo-Christian museum in Aquilieia, which is a bit away from the marvelous basilica, and the main museum of Cividale, in addition to the Tempietto there).

Food and wine is just an endless joy in that region. As a base for Civedale, dipping into Slovenia and exploring the wine country, the agriturismo La Subida has beautiful accommodations and outstanding food.

http://www.lasubida.it/newsite_eng/index.html

For a market, you really cannot beat the main market square of Udine, and the town is full of interest that merits more than a day trip there to get the feel of it.

It is very easy to go back and forth into Slovenia, but not so easy to get into Austria, since it involves taking some mountain passes that make for arduous (if spectacular) driving. Also be careful you understand the rules of the road before wandering around Austria, since you can incur heavy fines if you are ignorant of them.

Trieste's airport is a considerable distance from Trieste, so if you aren't planning on visiting the city, it is quite convenient located for heading out into other parts of the region. If you are arriving in the region after a transatlantic haul, you can get a bus at the airport directly to Udine, spend a few days there, and rent a car there. Or you might be able to go directly to Grado if you prefer.

Here are some more links with information about the region. When I visited, just about the only detailed information I found to plan my trip was on the internet. Guidebooks rarely talk about anything other than Trieste.

http://www.italytraveller.com/en/i/the-towns-of-carnia

http://www.lifeinitaly.com/tourism/f...ractions-2.asp

http://www.italyheaven.co.uk/friuliv...lia/index.html

http://info.jpost.com/C001/Supplemen.../cividale.html

Geonev

ekc and zeppole, great suggestions! I am on a quest to find the Plotkin book as we are big fans of his Italy for the Gourmet Traveler (have two editions) and I know he loves Friuli.

I so much appreciate the lodging and dining suggestions, as that will be a big part of our tour.

kja

It sounds like Slovenia would suit your interests well. You can see some of the highlights (Ljubljana, Lake Bled & the Vintgar Gorge, and a few other quick stops) in 4 - 5 days. Enjoy!

Andrew

Slovenia is great. Do check out Ljubljana for its "elegant architecture" - really lovely town.

If driving, check out the small towns of Skofja Loka and Stanjel.

The little seaside town of Piran is also quite beautiful.

ekc

No problem Geo! One of the great parts of staying at Russiz was the, literally, 5 minute drive to Subida. The rooms at Russiz are only a year-old, so a different vibe than Subida (with gorgeous views from the 2nd floor rooms). But you can't go wrong either way! If can't remember if the Russiz website has pictures of the rooms. If you are interested, I can send you some of my pictures.

As usual, I second all of Zeppole's recommendations!

zeppole

Amazon is good source for used copies of La Terra Fortunata

Here's more useful links:

http://www.mtvfriulivg.it/index.php?l=eng

http://www.welcomeoffice.fvg.it/friu...ia-giulia.aspx

http://www.udinecultura.it/opencms/o...ita/index.html

http://www.guardian.co.uk/travel/201...-food-festival

http://www.mariobatali.com/exploreitaly_friuli.cfm

Geonev

OP here.

Many, many thanks for all the good suggestions. I am convinced there is at least two weeks worth of top-quality sightseeing in Friuli Venezia Giulia.

I have ordered the Plotkin book, and I especially appreciate all the websites, which have much valuable information. I always say the Internet has information on everything you could ever want to learn about ... if only you can find it!

Kodmania

Hi Geonev,

We suggest perhaps a circle trip heading north through Palmanova (amazing when you fly over it), Udine, Cividale, Tarvisio and then into Slovenia and visit Kranjska Gora before heading over the Vrsic Pass into Bovec. Head onto the amazing Kobarid WW1 museum and historial walk then perhaps the Tolmin Gorge down to Goriska Brda wine region and further south to either Postojna or Skocjan Caves and then Koper before heading back through Trieste.
When are you travelling?
Cheers

Geonev

Kodmania, what a great itinerary! I will give that serious thought. I know some of those places, but the ones in Slovenia are mostly new to me (have been to Koper and Postojna only, as well as Stanjel and Lipice).

Our visit will be in spring 2013, so there is plenty of time. Still, it kinda creeps up on one!

Many thanks for food for thought.

ekscrunchy

ttt

barefootbeach

Can you tell me why you didn't like Trieste? I'm planning to stay there 2 nights as part of a trip through Slovenia, but perhaps I should substitute two nights in one of the towns you're mentioning. I am planning to visit Cividale while staying in Kobarid.

PalenQ

I did Trieste as a day trip from Venice and loved the city - unique flavor Austrian-Italian - neatly restored old section - one full day and two nights would be great.

janisj

berefootbeach: >>Can you tell me why you didn't like Trieste?<<. If you'll notice, the thread is seven years old and the OP hasn't posted on Fodors since 2015, so most likely we'll never know why s/he doesn't like Trieste. Not sure why such an old thread was topped -- but you'll do better to start a new thread of your own.

barefootbeach

janisj, I hate it when this happens! I didn't notice the date....you're right...her dislike for Trieste will be forever unknown! I'm going there regardless but will drive through the Friuli area on the way there and hopefully find a good vineyard lunch spot on the way! Thanks for clarifying this!