dina4

We'll actually be in Tuscany, staying near Siena, on July 2nd and were thinking of going to see the Palio race. Can anyone who has done this offer advice as to what it was like and/or how easy or difficult it was to actually go? Any details, like time/tickets/ etc., would be appreciated (Is it an all day affair?) I've read about it and heard about it, but don't know anyone who has actually seen it.
Thanks!

lmedley

I have actually seen it, and it kicks ass! Was so much fun! The problem is transportation because although you may be able to take a bus into Siena on the day of the Palio, it is VERY difficult to get one after.

Here is what we did. We drove to Villa Scacciapensieri for an early lunch. Was lovely and a perfect way to begin the day. We dined al fresco in the garden (my whole family), and then they allowed us to leave our car there so we could take the bus into town (picks up just outside the gates). The bus took us into town, and then you just follow the masses. Thousands and thousands of people from all the contradas, around Italy and around the world. We brought back the flags of our favorite horses. You can go and watch from within the center of the square, but be sure to get there early enough...it fills up rapidly...you won't believe it! There is barely room to breathe! You also don't want to miss all the pomp and circumstance before the actual race...this is the most visually stimulating! Each contrada shows off its horse, everyone is dressed in period costumes..."squires" perform a show with the large contrada flags...

Then the race begins...only rule, there are no rules! We saw one jockey get knocked off his horse. He picked himself up, dusted off and then gave a bit of bravado to the cheering crowds only to be trampled again by the horses as they made another lap!!!

The really classy way to go is to buy tickets in the bleachers...you have to have major connections to get into any of the buildings surrounging the square...we saw a famous Italian movie star waiving to her fans from one of the balconies. To tell you the truth, I loved experiencing it from the inside...felt more a part of it.

The important thing!!! Get out quickly once it is over and get to the nearest hotel. Hotels will only call so many cabs for people, and like I said, you will never find the right bus again! We went to a large, fancy hotel...can't remember the name, but they called us the last cab. To our fortunate pleasure, a very handsome young man that looked like a solo backpacker needed a cab, but the hotel turned him away...we offered him a ride with us. As we rode together, my sisters and I quite smitten, he told us he was from England, but that he was working on a film there in Tuscany...come to find out, it was a Bertolucci film. We were all impressed, but still thinking he was a camera guy or something, we ask him his name. He says, "My name is Joe. Joe Fiennes." My sister says, "Oh, spelled like Ralph Fiennes?" He says, "Yes, he's my brother."

caroline_edinburgh

I went a few years ago & stood in the central (unreserved, standing) area. We drove there on the day & parked in a car park away from the centre of town - I don't remember it being more than about a 10 minute walk. We got there about midday & at that point there was nobody in the central area. We went for lunch, probably got back about 1.30-2, & at that point there was one row of people lining the barriers all the way round the central area. So we took up our position then & waited it out. Several hours of nothing happening at all, then the parade which lasted - not sure, maybe half an hour ? - then the race itself which lasted about 2 minutes. I enjoyed it at the time (I was quite a bit younger then) but wouldn't stand for that long again - I'd only consider it again if I could get a seat in the grandstands round the outside, which I believe at that time were totally occupied by locals. I read another report here by someone who'd arranged some sort of package including space on a balcony, but it was very crowded and unpleasant. If you do want to wait it out in the central area, I'd advise taking folding chairs & a picnic & getting there at midday.

i_am_kane

Imedley,

Okay, I'll bite...what's the rest of the Joe Fiennes story? Please??

StCirq

I was there many years ago and am going again on July 2. It's an amazing event! However, when I bought my tickets last month, there were hardly any left. I doubt you can get a seat at this point, which means you'll have to stand for hours with 50,000 other people in probably sweltering heat in the center of the campo - with no bathroom facilities easily available. If you CAN find a ticket, expect to pay 300-400€. There are also very expensive hotel/cena/ticket packages available, but again these are probably sold out. Even tickets for the August Palio are now hard to come by.
But if you're up for it and don't mind being squeezed within an inch of your life among tens of thousands of people, go for it!

dina4

lmedley: Wow! That is SO cool!!
What an experience!

Thanks, too, to the rest of you for sharing all your valuable tips! The race sure sounds like a once-in-a-lifetime experience... Didn't realize the tickets went so far in advance and were so expensive. Sounds like our only option is too wait in the middle area, bring a picnic, etc.
Can you even see if you're not on the edge?
It sounds like the race is in the late afternoon. Is that right?
I was told that being there the day before the palio is great, too?

Thanks again!

StCirq

dina:

Google "il paliö Siena" and you'll find loads of pictures of the event. Bringing a picnic is a fine idea, but don't plan on eating it in the center of the campo - you'll be upright squished in with tens of thousands of people. I really don't think you can see much of the race unless you're right on the edge - but the events leading up to the race are interesting, and you could go in the preceding three days to see practice races without encountering huge crowds. Make sure you have plenty of water with you - when we were there medics were carrying people out of the center of the campo on stretchers every few minutes (a lot of heat exhaustion victims), even while the race was going on!

KathrynT

dina4 and St.Cirq, I think we'll be there this July 2 as well. We can look for each other in the crush of the crowd! As I mentioned in another post, viewing the Palio is not for the faint of heart, but it is an amazing experience.

Try to see the the movie offered in town (in English) some time before the race as it will help explain a bit what the Palio, which goes back centuries, is all about. What I paticularly enjoyed was seeing the enthusiasm of the townspeople leading up to the race as they parade and sing in the streets on the days leading up to the event. Also, there are pre-trial races including one the night before the race, that are much less crowded and are fun to see.

What is also refreshing is that this is not a show for tourists, but a part of the heritage of Siena which would continue if no outsiders ever came.

_jinx_

We attended the Palio in 2002--my wife, my son, and I. An unforgettable "happening". We were lucky in that a friend was studying Dante and had an apartment just minutes from Il Campo, the central square. We could leave, go to the restroom, etc.

We attended a contrada dinner the night before. It was delightful--with an excellent Tuscan meal and all the pageantry and celebration of hundreds of years experience. The locals are friendly and much fun. They enjoy telling of Palios past and what it means to each contrada. By the way, the most humiliating, tearful contrada experience is to finish second in il Palio race!!

My son and I arrived at the Campo at 7am to stake out our position "on the rail". We took water, hats, sunglasses, sun screen, and pieces of cardboard to lay on during a very long day. As it turned out, we could have waited until noon to get good positions. The crowd really didn't start growing until around 2pm. By the way, you can stake out enough room not to be crushed--just stand withspread feet and a little space between each other. We enjoyed conversing with other spectators and sharing travel experiences. Just one big happy family!

The pageantry/grand entrances started around 5pm. Quite a spectacle with all the colorful medieval costumes and the various contrada colors and banners. This went on for 90 minutes or more. Then the race. It took almost 90 minutes to get a "proper" start. I hear that this is customary--all the buildup and excitement, then a false start! Again and again. So don't be disappointed--it is just the Siena way of getting a race underway.

The race is three laps around il Campo--with almost anything and everything happening. Riders get thrown off, horses slip and fall, contradas block for each other to get position--rules and regulations that only could come from Italians looking for a good time! In fact, the winning horse can be riderless!! The jockey doesn't have to make it to the finish line.

This has been our most unforgettable moment of traveling Italy on many occasions. I would recommend it to any and all.

Cheers,

Jinx Hoover

lmedley

Now that would just spoil the intrigue now wouldn't it?! Let's just say that Joe is a really cool guy and quite the gentleman. I am convinced that one day I'm going to see him on Leno, and he's going to colorfully re-tell our story!

Ok, definitely take water...a HUGE bottle or two. And maybe some tiger balm (hey, there are over 50,000 sweaty people scrunched together in one piazza...a little on the finger-tips will work wonders (little trick I learned in China)). As for being able to see...we didn't really have a problem. The piazza is on a slight grade, so it wasn't like everyone was on the same level. Some people do put children on shoulders...or girlfriends...or drunken friends...but, we could pretty much the entire race. If you get there early, try to get toward the railing up the hill.

amarena

StCirq -- how did you buy your tickets? I am very interested in going to the August palio.

StCirq

amarena:

I got them the old time-honored Italian way - through friends of friends of friends.

But you can get them online through www.initaly.com or other websites (just google Palio Siena 13 augusto). Be careful of the sites that offer hotel/meals/tickets packages, though - on Trip Advisor there are some warnings about some of them charging exorbitant prices and putting people on a balcony squeezed in with 40 other people for hours with no water or refreshment.Your best bet is to secure a seat in the bleachers, which are still expensive, but at least there you can leave every once in awhile for a bathroom or refreshment break.

Auguri!

amarena

StCirq -- thanks for the information! I had been looking at some of those hotel/dinner/tickets offers just now... so I appreciate the warning.

I also just emailed a friend of mine to see if she has any connections... keeping my fingers crossed! I really, really want to see this, so worst case scenario, we might have to brave the crowds in the center.

StCirq

amarena: Will you be there July 1? Go to the practice race that afternoon/evening. It's ALMOST the same as the real thing and no major crowds. You won't be able to see anything from the center of the campo - trust me! You're better off on one of the side streets that spokes off from the campo, because they go steeply uphill, and if you position yourself right you'll have a downhill view to the racetrack/campo. Check out a bunch of Siena websites to get a feel for the lie of the land and you'll see what I mean.

amarena

Good to know. We will be there in August, not July. I'd consider the practice race, but I kind of have my heart set on experiencing the actual palio. I look forward to reading about your experience in July!

siena_us

I wrote an article on the Palio for Slow Trav that you may find interesting. http://www.slowtrav.com/italy/tuscany/siena_palio.htm

The Palio in August is the 16th not the 13th (although that is the day that the horses are selected and it is the start of the 4 days of festivities.)

IMO, initaly.com ticket prices are way too much for their location and what they offer. I normally book people through Paliotours.com where they are on a balcony at the start/finish line, have access to a bathroom and a buffet is set up for them.

caroline_edinburgh

I agree with the poster who said you can see from the centre if you are right by the barrier, and it is also a good tip to stand on the uphill side. As I and another poster mentioned there'll be hardly anyone there if you get there by midday, so no probably eating your picnic then.

jill_h

dina4

check out this website: http://www.toomuchtuscansun.com/

this guy writes a great story about the Palio in one of the chapters. He's VERY intense about the history and tradition of the Palio. The book is a great fun read. He has an e-mail address listed in his book, but I don't have that available at this time. Good luck - it sounds like a truly exciting event!

dina4

Jill H-
That looks like a really entertaining read. I checked out his website, and I'm planning to order it. Thanks!

Siena us -
Thank you for suggesting your slowtrav article. It had a wealth of info., and lots of helpful details I haven't been able to find anywhere else.

St.Cirq -
Next July 2nd, I will be thinking of you sitting in the bleachers or in a nice balcony with a glass of wine while we're sweating with the masses in the center. I contacted a few places. Some still have seats available, but they are way too way many euros for our family of 4.

We now have to decide whether to grit it out in the center, find a good vantage point on one of the side roads that lead into Il Campo, or just go for one of the trial races the day before.

KathrynT -
What did you decide to do?
(And, thanks, we will check that Palio movie out.)

_jinx_

Since you have decided to go for the center area of the Il Campo, I would recommend that you arrive around noon and stake out an area on the rail (we were near the last turn and it worked out great). Then a couple of you can hold the places and others can come and go--take turns. I would recommend that you find some cardboard that you can sit/lie on since it will be a fairly long afternoon. Some large floppy hats will ward off the sun that could be quite warm. Relax--smile--have a blast!!

Cheers,

Jinx Hoover