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Got an early start to the airport and had lunch while waiting for our flight. Quick trip to Atlanta, then a hike thru the airport..I HATE Atlanta!.. And onto the plane. Not very crowded so I had 2 seats and David had 3 all to ourselves. Would have been great except the lady behind us had bathed in perfume so we wheezed and sneezed our way across the Atlantic. Good tailwind so we arrived almost an hour early. The Gatwick express was on the platform when we got there so we were in London by 7:30. Of course our room was not ready , they said noon, UGH. Went off to Paul for some breakfast then back to the hotel to hang out in the lobby , hoping they'd take pity on us. It worked. The clerk said if we'd take a club room with breakfast for 20 pounds more we could get right in. Not too bad a deal as breakfast is 16.50 GBP each and I had an excellent rate from Londontown to start with.
David collapsed on the bed and I went off to Waitrose, Boots and the tube station . He managed to get up around lunchtime so headed to King's Row as I wanted to try to sell some jewelry at Antiquarious. They were closed for rem=novation so just went to Partridges for soup, Panini and cider then back to bed for David. I hung out in the neighborhood until Lte afternoon then had a nap and dressed for dinner at La Famiglia. Saw lots of old friends there and exchanged many kisses. David didn't even have to order his starter, they know he'll go for the mussels!I had deep fried artichoke hearts followed by very thin baby lamb chops, breaded and with fresh mint leaves, D had linguini Vongole.
And so to bed . Our Eurostar left at 10 so we had time to enjoy our full English breakfast before getting the cab to St Pancras. Quick trip to Gare du Nord and we didn't even have to wait too long for a taxi there.
We stayed at La Familia on Rue des Ecoles. This was a first for us as we usually stay on Rue Jacob at the Danube, but their prices have gone up so much we decided we needed to save some money. The savings on the room paid for our dinners each evening. The room was very small, but clean, nice size bath, free Wifi , great staff and the location is not too bad. 3 buses and 2 metro stations very nearby. Breakfast was included. Breakfast In America is just next door and we couldn't believe the lines there all day long. We were going to try it but didn't feel like standing waiting.
Walked around the neighborhood checking out various places and had lunch at L'Etoile, I forget just where it was. Had a really cute funny waiter to help us enjoy our baguettes and pichet. David wanted another nap later that afternoon, he is still sneezing , helped along with the dust in the air from a building being torn down near the hotel. I visited the College des Bernardins just across from the hotel. Lovely old building and chapel. Had an espresso in their café and enjoyed the pleasant surroundings. They were having a concert that evening but we had other plans.
We headed off to the 7th to meet M and BA( for dinner at Le Champetre, on rue St Charles, I think. Had a nice reunion and gabbed for a long time while enjoying, Foie gras, Shrimp Nem style, Sole, and rognons de veau, follwed by , what else, crème brulee for David and Tart Tatin for me. I forget what the ladies had. We got our arrangements for our trip to Giverny the next day and said good-night.
　
Fri 16th
We arranged to meet up with Michael Osman at St Lazare at 9:45 for our train and surprisingly we all made it on time and in the right place. I think all of Paris must pass thru that station at rush hour. I never saw such crowds of people all rushing off somewhere. It is a mad house!
David and I hadn't seen Michael on our last trip so we had a good time catching up on the train. The bus was right there we got off the train so we were in Giverny in good time. Decided to walk around the town and see Monet's gravesite before doing the house and gardens. The church was closed for renovation but we enjoyed the church yard and Michael was full of information about Monet and his family. Wandered thru a gallery on the way to lunch at the Hotel Baudy. What a pretty terrace and garden they have there.
We walked thru the gardens first. Even though it is October some flowers remain and the leaves on the trees are glorious. No water lilies left, I guess we were about a week too late. Still it was a delight to see the places we are familiar with from the paintings. The house was last and very cheerful inside and out. The train ride back passed quickly and we arranged to meet up with Michael and his partner, Scott later in the week.
I'd read about a restaurant called Il Pescatore , near the hotel, so sent David out to look for it. Too bad I gave him the wrong address and he only looked on one side of the street! Decided to have dinner at a nearby brasserie, Authre Bistrot. It was typical bistrot fare but really quite nice, faux filet , frites and a nice bottle of Bergerac. I do like faux filet!
Sat 17th
We'd planned on going to Vanves but BA and M said there was a brocante in their neighborhood that morning so we decided to go there instead. And arranged to meet for lunch at Au Metro near their apartment. We got there early in the morning and ran into them on the street while we were browsing the many stalls set up selling various unneeded items. I resisted the urge to buy very well though I did see one picture we really liked but it was 350 Euro and was more than I was prepared to spend! Had a nice lunch and then went to see the apartment. It was really lovely and a great price for all the amenities it had.
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On the way back to the hotel, David said I should see how much his eye drops were in France. He gets them from the VA but the bottle comes up about 2 weeks short so I buy an extra to hold us until his order arrives. They are $105.00 in the US and 18 Euro in France, so you can guess I stocked up! Who says we have the best healthcare?


Went to Chez Fernand for dinner. I had Beef Bourg and D had duck followed by crème brulees!
Stopped at the wine shop next to the hotel and stocked up for the rest of the trip with a nice Clos Luberon.
　
Sun 18th
There was a contemporary art exhibit , sponsored by the Joel Garcia organization, at Chatou. I've always wanted to get to the brocante and Jambon at Chatou and to visit the Isle of the Impressionists, so this was to be our chance. Fat Chance as it turns out. The directions say take the RER to Reuil-Something or other then there will be directions. So onto the RER and we get to the place. And there are signs, which we followed for about a mile. My poor old legs are giving out and it feels like my calf muscles are shredding so I send David on ahead to see how much further we have to go. He's gone so long I think he's taken off with a saucy young French girl! Finally he shows back up and says he's walked about 2 miles and there is still no fair in sight. No way am I going that far with no end in sight so we head back to Paris and just wander for the rest of the day

. Poked around Trocadero and went to Invalides. Well, David went in and I enjoyed the sunshine in the gardens. The weather has been beautiful , no need for even a light raincoat. Sweaters will do it. I hate the transportation options in the 7th so we cabbed back to the hotel to get ready for the grand GTG tonight.
　
Took the bus and Le Metro is right across from the stop and BAand M are already there and seated. A and D showed up a few minutes later , then Sister and Mister Sister, then another member , whose name , I'm ashamed to say I forget! Had a good time getting to know each other before setting off for Le Reminet. A and Dare staying nearby and know the way so we all follow them.

Nice reception at the restaurant from the white haired gentleman. He seems to remember David. We are seated in the cellar dining room and have it all to ourselves for the entire evening. Most unusual, it's usually heavily used. Must be the recession!. We had a nice young patient waiter and he was a pleasure to work with, even though he wouldn't do separate checks. He did give us an itemized bill and a big sheet of paper to figure out what we each owed. We were shortly joined by Chemong and her friend. The food as always was very good. I don't recall what others had but I had beef, David had duck and we both had crème brulees…AGAIN! It was fun watching D have his first oyster, courtesy ofBA! Lingered over the meal and wine and all hoped for another GTG next year.
　
Mon 19th
I had prebooked tickets for the Jacquemart-Andre exhibit so we walked right in. But then had to wait to get into the actual exhibit. They were restricting access. Unfortunately for us an organized tour group cut ahead and spent almost an hour in the first room, while the guide went over each eyelash in the pictures she was peaking about. It was so crowded when we got in you could hardly see a thing. This same thing happened the last time we went so we've decided no more special exhibits! It is a lovely space when it's not jammed full of people but this was a total mess!


Bused back to the 7th and had a nice lunch at La Terrasse, good omelets.
Made our way back to hotel around 4 , had a nice kip, then dressed for dinner. Had no reservations so took the bus toward St Germain looking for someplace that struck our fancy. Got off right across from Del Papa and decided we'd been almost 2 weeks without Italian so went in. Had their wonderful roasted squid salad for a starter then I had a veal limone and David had some kind of pasta with veggies and feta. Even with a bottle of wine the bill was under 50 Euro,, really a good deal for excellent food.
　
Tue 20th
Made our way to Madeline and joined the line at Pinacotique for the Rembrandt exhibit. It stretched about a block long or longer. Left David waiting and I checked around and then noticed the poster! It was all from the Rijk collection in Amsterdam. We'd spent about 4 hours there a few months ago so we'd already seen most of these paintings. I had no desire to continue standing around so headed for a bus to the Petit Palais. We've seen most of the things there but it is one of my favorite places in Paris. It is so light , bright tand airy. I could move in. Wanted to see the ceiling in the Grand Palais but it was packed with trucks unloading a new exhibit that is opening in a day or 2. I'd read that it was finally opened but just our luck , not the day we were there

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It was too late to head to the silver atelier at the Viaduc des Arts. Took bus to Luxembourg and wandered around for a bit then headed to the Serine and a walk thru the Sculpture de Plein Air gardens then we headed back to hotel as we had a dinner reservation with friends at Le Cordonnerie. GO THERE!!! , it is Super super super!


BA and Mjoined us shortly after we arrived then Michael and Scott. It is a very small place. 2 Tables at the front near the chef's kitchen then a few tables, maybe 6 in back. We all choice from the menu for today. 5 of us had the mousseline de choux fleur. There is no way to describe how good this was. David had the foie gras and said it was the best he's ever eaten, and he's eaten a lot of it! 5 of us chose the daurade and BA had the veal steak. I had some chestnut confection for dessert and had to defend it with my life from the fork coming in from the left side of me. The others all had some chocolate cake thing. Could hardly make it to the taxi stand to get home!


Wed 21st
Had made a reservation for our 48th anniversary dinner at L' Epigramme and they said to reconfirm so made a call and got a busy signal. Same thing the other 15 to 20 times I called! We had a 10 AM entry to the Renoir exhibit at the Grand Palais so got there around 9 :40 and got in line. They finally let us in at exactly 10 AM! Wonder of wonders it wasn't too crowded and you could actually see the paintings. There were not any of our favorites but it was interesting to see them next to the pictures that inspired them. The sort film when Renoir was very old and crippled was most interesting. Left there and headed to the I'Ie de St Louis . Had a nice lunch at Esmeralda with a funny episode with a stray pigeon being chased with a broom by the waiter. You had to see it to believe it!

Resisted buying anything in the shops, I really so not need or want anything!
Got to L'Epigramme at 7:30 and were told we hadn't reconfirmed so they had cancelled our reservation. I tried and tried to tell him how many times I'd called but got no where. So we left in a huff! Decided to just eat at the first nice looking place we saw. Thought of Café Mabillion but we headed off in the wrong direction and ended up at Le Bar de Huitres. Good choice, the food was delicious. D started with oysters and went on to salmon and another crème brulee. I had a nice sole and impressed the waiter when I said I'd bone it myself. He stood there and watched and congratulated me. So all in all we weren't disappointed but I won't be making any more reservations at L'Epigramme.



Thus 22nd Up early for our Eurostar back to London, Paris is raining as we left . Our weather was beautiful the whole time in Paris
Made it to the Eurostar in plenty of time for another cup of coffee before we boarded. It was a 2 hour trip in a full coach. It would have been pleasant except for the woman who stood in the aisle talking the entire trip to the people seated behind us. Even worse she was blocking the doorway to the restrooms and the other cars and she had a big butt! My ears took a few hours to recover from the constant assault of gibberish.

Got to Bailey's a bit after noon and our lovely LARGE room was ready so unpacked quickly and went across the street to Pret a Manger for some lunch. I really had to do some laundry as D was out of underwear. Nice thing about this area is there are all sorts of services available nearby. Packed up the bag and headed to the Laundromat. Spent the hour talking with a lovely lady about London. Back to the hotel to put the stuff away and to get tube passes, money and wine for the room. Went to Internet café across the street and bough 3 hours of computer time for 5 GBP. That beat the 20 GBP /a DAY the hotel charges!
By now it was time to get ready to meet M and her husband, G, for dinner. Caught bus to Chelsea Old Town Hall and ran into them on the street . We wanted something nearby to our hotel and their apartment so had read a good review on a pub, The Pig's Ear. I'm usually not into pub food, but there are some good gastro pubs in London and this is one of them. I was going to suggest The Anglesea Arms but it's not that close to their apartment and can be a bit hard to find. The Pig's ear lived up to it's reviews . They all started with a good pate with excellent bread and I had arugula and parmesan salad. M and I followed with a roasted pork loin in a yummy sauce , D had pigeon with a fruit tart, and I think G had fish. It was all very good and reasonable.
Fri 23rd
We arranged to meet at the Tate Britain at 10 AM to see the Turner and The Masters exhibit. It has Rembrandts, Canaletto's ,Titians and Poussins side by side and was well hung and easy to navigate. It really was a pleasure to wander through.
Around 11:30 we walked across the street to catch the Thames Clipper to take us to South Bank. Borough Market is a short walk from the dock so we made it there in plenty of time. M and G had not been before and we usually go there on every trip to London. It really is a fun market and lots of samples and food stalls.

David and G wanted some hand dived scallops from Dorset so we set off for that booth first. 3 big scallops sprinkled with bacon bits on a bed of slaw for 3 GBP. You'd pay 15 GBP in a café for that. M went for a fresh juice and I had a nice fresh cider. We strolled around through huge crowds and each picked up sandwiches at various stalls to eat in the churchyard along with half of London. I'd never seen the market that crowded before. We spent the rest of the afternoon sitting and talking and eating. M and I did go into the Southwark Cathedral to take a few pictures while the guys sat in the sun.


We parted and went back to the hotel for a rest and to change for dinner at Chez Gerard on Kensington High Street. This is a great little place and not terribly expensive. I had a delicious faux filet with frites, best one of the trip. I do love faux filet. Don't recall what D had but it was good.

Sat. 24th
Had planned on going to Portobello but got up later than usual and wanted to make sure we got tickets for the Jersey Boys matinee so headed off to Leicester Square. No Jersey Boy tickets today so headed for the theatre , The Prince Edward to get them at the box office. They are expensive but the show is worth every penny of the price.
We had 3 hours to kill until curtain so walked over to the National Gallery and spent the time there and enjoying the sun on Trafalgar Square. Got to theatre a bit early so had a glass of wine while waiting. The house was full but we had excellent seats in a aisle row so lots of leg room. London theatre seats are not designed for long legs or big rears! The show was fantastic, the audience was clapping along with the music and there was at least a 10 minutes standing ovation at the end with whistles and clapping, singing and dancing. Great fun and a must see if you are in London. M said they were going to try to see it but I haven't heard form her yet.


We had been wanting to try a small place across from the V&A ever since we stopped in one morning for a coffee while waiting for the museum to open.. That morning we were tempted by their pastries and the man told us they were all baked on the premises by his wife. We vowed on the next trip to try dinner there.
www.orsiniristorante.com
We were not disappointed. We started sharing a plate on meats, proscuitto, salami and dried beef with good bread. David went on to Calamari. He said it was the best he'd had since La Rivera in NOLA burnt down. I love meatballs so had the polpette with little marble sized roasted potatoes. It was all excellent. In fact it was so good we went back the next night so I could have the calamari! We sat next to a lovely couple with their children and talked about living in London. Funny thing the next night they were there again too.


Sun 25th
We were up early for a trip to Fulham Palace. It was on a direct bus line from near our hotel so was no big deal to get to. The entry was right across from the Fulham bus stop. You walk along a path, lined with tennis courts of Bishop's Park that were getting a full workout that morning. I thought it opened at 10 but it was 10:30 on Sundays so we strolled along the Thames Path watching the crews rowing on the river. Stopped into All Saint's Church and churchyard for some pictures. The day was warm and sunny and it was delightful to be outside in the parks with all the trees turning and the quiet. Made our way back to the palace grounds and had a snack and coffee in the drawing Room café overlooking the green which was covered in kiddies enjoying running around and playing. Went into the palace itself and it is a bit of a disappointment. There are just a few unfurnished rooms open and a small museum with interesting exhibits. They are going to be restoring and furnishing it over the next few years. It really is a most pleasant short day trip from central London.

Back into town and got off the bus at the V&A. The Gilbert collection has been rehoused there and I wanted to see that again and also the new ceramic rooms. David wanted especially to see a large bronze wall plaque that he loves. We arranged to meet at the entrance in a hour so we both went off on our own. I never did find the Gilbert collection but did enjoy seeing the other metal works. As we exited the museum, David noticed there was a Sunday Antiques Fair at the Rembrandt hotel. We love these Sunday hotel fairs and I'd checked to see if any were on while we were there. Somehow this one missed being noted on Antiques Web. We went right in and browsed around for more than a hour. I'd brought some rings and other things to sell but we hadn't gotten around to it. We were talking with a dealer and mentioned this. He said he'd like to see the ivory card case and silver box we had. So back to the hotel and David took then back. He did buy the silver box and we got a very good price for it.


Back to Orsini so I could have the calamari. David ordered it again!
Mon 26th
Our last day..POOH!

Met up with M and G at the Imperial War Museum. They had 2 new exhibits we hadn't seen and several Mel and Gene had missed. We all went off or separate ways after agreeing to meet at the museum café for lunch. The Before 1939 exhibit was most interesting and I spent a lot of time reading all the information. David visited his favorite painting and then toured the Terrible Trenches exhibit. The girl at the desk said it was mainly set up for children but David said he enjoyed it and learned a few things
　
If you go to this museum they serve the best lunch, we always make it a stop. David had some kind of beef stew with beetroot and the rest of use had Mac and cheese. I wish I had their recipe it was so good. Then instead of a sweet we all had a nice slice of English cheese and bread. Really good.
We had to heard back to pack and M and G wanted to stay and see more there so we said good-bye and we are meeting up for dinner at La Famiglia.

All packed and ready to go we set off early for the restaurant. Had a nice window table and M and G showed up shortly after we arrived. I was sorry Alvaro was not going to be in that evening as I wanted M meet him. Well there's always a next time. David had been talking up their mussels to G all week so they were both disappointed that they don't serve them on Mondays because they can't get them fresh enough. I guess that is a good thing. e had a pasta with lobster, D a duck in vin santo sauce, I had the thin lamb chops again and M had the thin sliced beef. It was very good and I'll try it next time we are there.
Said our farewells and hope to get to Ohio to visit them or they can come to FL so G can get in some winter golf!


Tue 27th
Up and out of the hotel at 4 AM!! Delta had changed our flight . We were supposed to leave around 10"30 and change in Cincinnati. Now we are again going thru the dreaded Atlanta. Plane was full but we both slept a good way home. The fog was so heavy over Atlanta that even when we touched down you couldn't see the ground. Made it thru passport control picked up the bags went thru customs with no problems then rechecked bags. Then at Atl you have to go thru security again before you can enter the terminal. Really stupid. We went to the gate listed on out tickets then found out the gate had changed. So back on the train to terminal B and the long hike to the gate. Finally boarded and then sat on the runway for 1 ½ hours waiting to take off. Finally in the air and made it home a bit ahead of scheduled arrival time.
All in all it was an excellent trip and I'm ready to go again!

Hi Avalon, lovely report, thanks for so much info. Do you mind if I ask a question? What is 'faux' as in faux filet? I've not heard that term before. We visited the Borough Market in 2006 and loved it! It was packed then, however it was lunch time on a Friday which could have been the problem, lots of city types grabbing lunch.

Fridays are our days at Borough Market too. I love it!

Faux filet is what we call sirloin, another excellent cut is onglet or as we call it in the US hangar or skirt steak. Actually that was what I had at Chez Gerard. It's chewy but has a great flavor

Pulled a few photos out of the 400 I took. Here's a small sample.

The ones that aren't labeled in front are labelled in the comment section

http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/..._photos_button

I'm curious about your eye drop purchase. We'll be in Paris in a few weeks and there are a few things I stock up on at the pharmacy but never looked into eye drops. Can you buy prescription eye drops over the counter in Paris?

Judy, yes his eye drops are a prescription and I bought them over the counter. They are Cosopt for glaucoma. That price was for the name brand and the $105.oo I pay in the US is for generic!~

Thanks! I use Azopt and Lumigan....will try to purchase there and eat or drink my savings!!

Avalon, I got so excited about possibly getting some of my meds in Paris, I forgot to say I loved your photos!

Thanks for this, avalon. Great photos, too!!

Anselm

Thanks for the trip report. You've given me good ideas for restos in London and Paris.

Question: I believe the Borough Mkt is open on Thursdays-but is that a good day for a visit? I would hate to miss the grilled cheese but I'm leaving London on Friday.

Bluzmama , yes it is open on Thurdays.

Very interesting trip report. We are visiting London and Paris over Christmas with three teenagers. I googled the Italian restaurant Orsini, but the menu doesn't include the prices. I have no idea how much we need to plan for restaurant meals. In USD, what did you spend for a lunch panini and some other basics like a bacon and eggs breakfast? Thanks.

Cmac, We stayed in the same Hotel (Millenium Bailey's) there is a good little cafe a few doors down called Le Forum. We enjoyed good cheap breakfasts there every morning. They had a special. If you purchased coffee you got a free croisant. Can't bat that.

Thanks for the nice report and photos, avalon. I stayed once at the Danube several years ago and enjoyed the experience (it was suggested by a Fodorite who was a regular there, possibly you). But I agree, pricey pricey.

I love the Petit Palais too, especially the courtyard.

Judy, I buy sunscreen at my dermatologist's office, $60/bottle. Got the same stuff at a pharmacy in May 11.90 E. I'm just running out and of course wish I had stocked up.

suzanne is right Cafe Forum does a nice inexpensive full English at a reasonable price. The BAiley's charges 16.50 GBP for a full breakfast. There is also a Paul across the street for good pastries and coffee, an Illy that does a full breakfast, and a little place across the street as you exit Bailey's, Il something. It is always full of taxi drivers having breakfast.There are some pubs that also offer breakfast but they don't open until 10.

At Bailey's if you tell the desk you are having breakfast there the night before they will give you a discount coupon. It still is too pricy for me!

Someone asked about prices at Orsini, for London we found it quite reasonable. I checked my Amex statement, we paid 51 GBP for 1 large starter, shared, 2 entrees, 2 desserts and a bottle of house wine