nho9504

Just returned from our 15day trip. 4 nights London, 4 nights Scotland, 1 night Liverpool (for flying to CDG), 5 nights Paris.

Some stats: All hotel nights were reward nights. We consider Express by Holiday Inn is a very good choice for Scotland, especially take into the consideration of their very decent Continental breakfast (lots of choices for fresh fruit, cereal and coffe). Holiday Inn Mayfair in London has better location than Marriott Grosvernor House on Park Lane. Hilton Glasgow is decent, Hilton St.Helene is old (outside Liverpool), Intercontinental Le Grand in Paris is very nice. 30K PC points for it is a bargain when regular rate is 400+ Euro.

Rental car in Scotland is from Hertz. Using a 20% discount code, it costed 95GBP for a Ford Mondeo for 4 days one-way rental, about 20GBP cheaper than Avis. We drove 840 miles and consumed about 19 gallons of petrol.

We got our GBP from Barclay machines using our BofA check card (no withdrawal fee and very competitive rates). We got our Euro at airport HSBC ATM using our Wachovia check card (1% international currency fee, no withdrawal fee because our account allows 2 free outside withdrawals per statement cycle, also competitive rate). There are BNPs everywhere in Paris, there is one just accross Place de l'Opera from our hotel.

First stop was London. It was now a very crowded city, compared to long time ago when we first visited. Weekend nights at Covent Garden were so crowded that there were police cars stationed at several street corners, ready for mob control on Sat. Then on Sunday night Hue Grant and some other Celebs were visiting a theatre or a restaurant there and the crowd were unbelievable.

We bought our Oyster cards at LHR Piccadilly Line station and were delighted that we could get our 3 pound deposit back instantly when we left London at Kings Cross for our train to Edinburgh. Oyster card is the way to travel London. The farthest we went was Greenwich. We put 12 GBP on the card plus 3 GBP deposit. We had to top up the card once, for 80 pence, for our morning metro ride from Green Park to Kings Cross.

While many museums are still free, they all have big donation boxes at the entrance, and billboards everywhere to ask for donation (so they can stay "free", how ironic.) They should do the same as Paris museums, just charge a reasonable fee for visiting the museum.

Happy to report, despite all the neysayers here, we successfully covered Scotland with only the UK map from AAA here. The only confusing moment was trying to find the way to A90 out of Edinburgh town center - that I dont think an Atlas can help much - as we got to the same spot where 4 streets fan out (one of it supposedly led to A90) once, twice and three times, but still unable to figure which lane to take in order to get to the right street! After wasting 60 minutes we gave up. Just drove to the opposite direction (Haymarket) and hoped to hit the ring road. Not found the ring road but found the sign to Airport. Voila, same direction we were trying to go. From there, it was smooth driving.

OK, we did not take any B roads. After seeing the conditions of 3 digit A roads (single track, rough surface) we decide to simply ignore B roads and just stick with the A roads that are on AAA map. In 4 days, starting from Edinburgh, we went thru The Highlands, Loch Ness area,(we even stopped by Urquhart Castle, the castle on the front cover of Visit Scotland), Glencoe, (it is ok, not as dramatic as described) Inveraray and ended in Glasgow.
We gave up Isle of Skye and Oban. The former due to inconvenient ferry schedule. The latter due to deteriating weather. All in all, in our opinion, small Scottish towns are very charming, but all look like deserted - very few pedestrians around. Oh, we saw a Hilton at Ballater - to our utmost surprise. Edinburgh is all hype - The Royal Mile is full of tacky tourist shops. Originally we regretted that our planned 2 days stay at Edinburgh had to be cut due to GNER maintenance work over the weekend and delayed our travel up from London by a day. When we were there, we were happy that we only had 1 day in Edinburgh. Though we did enjoy the view from Calton Hill. Very few tourists made it there. Guess most of the tourists went to either Holyrood Park or to climb Arthur Seat. When we asked the front desk at our hotel, the staff said Calton Hill offers about the same view as from Arthurs Seat, but much closer and much easier to get up there. It was about 10 to 15 minutes walk from our hotel (Holiday Inn Express City Center) to the entrance for an easy climb of steps. Gorgeous view there and we could see those bodies climbing the Salisbury Crags. We sure glad we asked the front desk first.

We like Glasgow. Spent 2 nights there and glad we moved our night for Lake District to stay at Glasgow instead. We enjoyed the city eventhough it were the only 2 days we had rain during our whole trip.

Overall, we enjoyed the drive in Scotland and the sceneries. However, we are underwhelmed, totally unimpressed. May be our expectation was set too high as this is a new place to us, may be we had visited too many other places in the world. By comparison, Scotland is really nothing special. Yet, it is still far better than the Lake District in England. That, is truly a big let down. We should have taken the M6 straight down instead of detouring. Keswick is incredibly touristy. And the tourist information office there wants 1.5 GBP for a very crude, cartoonish area map!

BTW, the roads in Lake District are extremely narrow and winding - very dangerous as the traffic is very heavy, and big trucks also using those roads (there are no other roads). The layby space on the road side barely enough for one midsize car but no room left. Getting out from such laybys in heavy traffic with many turns is close to suicide, in our opinion. A592 along the biggest lake Windermere virtually has NO parking facility anywhere near any scenic spot In order to see the lake which is ok, but not nearly scenic as many many lakes in North America (U.S. & Canada), one must park the car somewhere quite away from the lake, and walk long distance. Unless, you stay in one of the resorts, B&Bs, hotels, that are fronting the lake. This is truly not what we used to in the U.S.

Flew EasyJet from LPL to CDG. At LPL, we tried to exchange some GBP for Euro (for the Roissy Bus upon arrival CDG) but the exortionate rate and fee changed our mind. (the rate was 1.33 Euro for 1 GBP plus 2 GBP fee, totally ridiculous). We decided to try our luck and hoped the ATM at CDG T3 would work. Not only the HSBC ATM worked like a charm, Roissy Bus actually took credit cards! We paid cash but we saw there were visa/mastercard/amex logos displayed at the ticket machine next to the driver, so we assumed it also accpets credit cards. Later on we exchange our 25 GBP for Euro at an small outfit steps from our hotel at Opera, at 1.4575, no fee. (about 1.5% more than it would be - we considered it reasonable especially he even took our 2GBP coins. We saw AMEX accross Opera place has the rate at 1.475 but with 1.5% fee so it is actually more expensive after the fee.

We bought zone 1-2 Carte Orange and used it for all 3 modes of transportation - Metro, RER (the A line is terrific - one stop between Auber and Arc de Triomphe) and buses. There are buses going up and down Champs. We took Metro to Port Neully (spelling?) the last stop before it changes to Zone 3. Took nice pictures of La Defense and looking back to Arc de Triomphe. Then we took Bus 73 back to Place de la Concorde and switch to Bus 42 back to L'Opera. Kind of fun taking the buses. You can ask for a free route map at any RATP window and it is very useful.

The only sour note of the trip was at CDG on our departure. At the first security check point (have to pass that before one can actually check-in) the black woman manning the point asked "who paid for your hotel bill?", after asked some routine questions. We simultaneously said the hotel was free. She insisted us to show her hotel bills. We did not have, 0 charge, the hotel did not print one. Then she demanded to see our air tickets and receipt. At least I kept a copy as it showed the terminals of both arrival at LHR and departure at CDG. It took 20 minutes or so for them to finally let us check-in and we got the dreaded SSSS boarding pass. Showed our passports 4 times. Went thru 2 hand searches of our carry-ons, and 2 body pat-downs. Our plane was also delayed by 45 minutes because passengers like us were not cleared by security. Ironically, our checked rolleraboard (due to liquid ban) was not opened despite it was labeled "Selecte" in a shocking pink tag. Someone scribbled on the barcode tape to clear it. TSA at IAD also cleared it without opening it. So what the hell those idiot French security agents were thinking? Tagged a bag being "Selecte", and yet not bothered to open it? When at the same time we were searched again and again as if we were suicide bombers ready to blow up the plane. All they found in our carry-on bags were slippers, water cup, a few apples, 2 thin travel raincoats, a baseball cap, glasses and medications. You would think the first search team would inform the second search team given they were both located right in front of the gate - one positioned at the X'Ray machine, the other positioned at the side next to the entrance of the gangway. The 2 teams are less than 10 yards apart. Yet, we were searched by both. This is the only spoiler, but it is enough to make us NOT to return to Paris any time soon. After all, we have finally got up to Tour l'Effel after our 3rd visit because the line this time did not look too bad. (took about 30min wait), LOL.

SB_Travlr

Just want to say, for a different perspective on Scotland, take a look at my TR (Scotland's the Best...) -- it's a work in progress, more to come.

Quoting nho: "we successfully covered Scotland with only the UK map from AAA here" -- um, in that case I think you missed most of the "good stuff". (Just my 2 cents.)

amelie

A comment like this "So what the hell those idiot French security agents were thinking?", along with others from this report makes me wish I hadn't read it.

I don't think I could possibly go to another country, or even city and not appreciate it and enjoy it. I just really cannot relate to that. I always find something to love with my travels.

janisj

I think to understand this trip report one needs to read some of nho's original threads asking for advice --- 'nuff said . . . . .

nona1

I lost interest when they felt the need to say 'the black woman' on the desk.

gabrieltraian

So you covered all that area in Scotland in a few days...

Do I understand well that you were at a Formula 1 rally and managed to cross the line first?!

May I ask... by comparison with which country "Scotland is really nothing special"?

Each country has something special about it. The important thing is... the traveller to discover it.

Surely you didn't.

Edinburgh... By any standards is one of the most beautiful cities in the world, and so is Scotland as a country.

And I am not Scottish.

And about London, or Paris... was that all you had to say??

What a waste!

historytraveler

It's a bit sad when one becomes so jaded by their travel experiences that they are "underwhelmed" and "unimpressed" by Scotland. I too have visited as well as lived in a number of places in the world, yet Scotland still remains at the top of my favorites list. Gee I even like the Lakes District. Perhaps I'm too impressionable.

janisj

For context (and if you want a chuckle) read this thread

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=34823867

nona1

That thread is so funny.

Everyone repeatedly tried to warn her that her planned trip wouldn't be much fun - or even what she was hoping to find - but she completely ignored everyone.

So she got exactly what everyone said she would. A disappointing holiday.

flanneruk

...but still thinks it's Scotland's fault.

Like the Borgias. Learns nothing: forgets nothing.

Kate

Blimey.

I think Scotland and London got off pretty lightly, compared with French Airport Security!

Although I'd be pretty interested to hear how many people nho would like to see milling about, as London was too busy and Scottish villages were too quiet.

caroline_edinburgh

"not what we used to in the U.S"

Sums it up, really.

Perhaps the OP will decide to spare us all by sticking to the US in future.

steviegene

after reading the original thread, I have a hard time believing that this person is for real.

Josser

There were no wrecks and no-one got drownded.
In fact nothing to laugh at at all.

So, you hated Scotland and the Lake District.
As my old mum would say to a faddy eater, "All the more for the rest of us!"

GreenDragon

"First stop was London. It was now a very crowded city, compared to long time ago when we first visited."

huh? London has been, IMHO, crowded since Roman times. How old IS this person????

I also read the other thread, and continue to be amazed that someone who travels so much can learn so little about other cultures, landscapes, and people. If this was in Ireland, I would have called it a 'green blur' tour. I guess this is the 'heather blur' tour? Stop and smell the thistles when you are traveling, folks!

highflyer

OK, I only read as far as ...They (London museums) should do the same as Paris museums just charge a reasonable fee..

Yes, London museums request donations but the point is these are optional ...ANYONE can go for free and this is how it 'SHOULD' be IMO!

amelie

Excellent post GreenDragon.

"smell the thistles" - love it!

Yes, life is too short to have these sort of jaded attitudes.

Kate

Highflyer - yes, I read that and was too gosmacked to respond.

So they have collection boxes. So what! They hardly hold a gun to your head. The whole point is that people have a CHOICE whether to pay or not. Blimey, you'd think visitors would be grateful that something's free in London.

hopingtotravel

Holy cow! I almost quit reading when I got to the part about the Holiday Inns. Part of what made our Scotland experience memorable was a stay in a little stone b&b in south Edinburgh where we met Australians at breakfast. Then, of course, the stay at Craigallachie and picking it out later from across the river while touring McCallan. Then, there was the old Columba hotel in Oban just above the ferry dock.

Just in case any newcomers were reading this post in trying to make their own plans about traveling in Scotland--yes MOST Americans who travel there find it beautiful.

I read the "planning post". That's where the 'holy cow' came from. In our innocence of Scottish road times, we drove 110 miles (not km) or so from Craigallachie over to the east coast, up through Inverness, with stops at Urqhart, Stalker Castle, etc, and it was getting close to dark when we reached Oban.

We're going to Maui in Feb--first time in 6 years. I think I already knew it had "lost its innocence" from our first trip in 1989. However, when you live in a snowbound city, hopefully there are still a few "good things" in Maui in Feb. I may not be the experienced world traveler that nho is, but nobody I know would go to the tropics in the summer.

hopingtotravel

Forgot to mention: before someone writes off Keswick as boring: go up the hill and walk among the standing stones. The view looking out over the fells and walking trails is beautiful. The stones don't have the crowds one finds at Stonehenge. Note, they are smaller of course, but you still have the feeling of being in a very ancient, magical place.