LONDON QUESTION:Hoxton/Shoreditch/Spitalsfield
Jul 10th, 2006, 06:58 AM
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LONDON QUESTION:Hoxton/Shoreditch/Spitalsfield
We are curious about what the areas of Hoxton, Shorditch & Spitalsfield have to offer. Should we consider staying in East London at all? It'll be our 4th visit to London, we are looking for a short stay in a cozy fun neighborhood and not planning to see any major monument. Thank you
Jul 10th, 2006, 07:39 AM
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Hoxton and Shoreditch are essentially "back office" areas: places a few hundred yards from the City with traditionally relatively low rents, and therepore a fair amount of public housing, service businesses that don't need flash offices and some wasteland.
Additionally (but absolutely NOT replacing the real stuff) they've attracted a lot of cafes, art galleries and all the other stuff that lets (or let: the fad might have passed while I went off for a cup of tea) lazy journalists describe it as cutting-edge and estate agents describe it as stunning. In reality, the traditional residents live in near-tolerance of the achingly trendy. Cosy's the last word I'd ever use, though the cutting edge stuff might strike some as fun. It gets invaded at weekends and many evenings by fun-seeking young people. A couple of Holiday Inn EXpress-style places to stay.
Spitalfields, strictly defined, is very different. Traditionally, it's the first port of call for immigrants. An area of stunning Huguenot silk weavers' houses, now covered with more preservation orders than there probably are in the whole of the US, and mostly inhabited by the very, very confortable. A few wine bars and the like provide standard gentrified facilities at the western end of Spitalfields.
Immediately adjacent, to the east, a scruffier area, partly pre 20th century, partly post WW2 public housing, lived in mostly by Bangladeshis, and claiming just about the highest deprivation levels of anywhere in Britain. Practically devoid of hotels: main drag (Brick Lane) quoted in bad guide books as full of good Bangladeshi restaurants. Actually full of very, very average restaurants, mostly patronised by loud groups of whites (and, unlike most other blocks of ethnic restaurants, practically never by the relevant ethnic group). Though the food's pretty mediocre, if you're part of the loud group, you'll probably have a good time. I've never had either a good meal or a bad time there.
Additionally (but absolutely NOT replacing the real stuff) they've attracted a lot of cafes, art galleries and all the other stuff that lets (or let: the fad might have passed while I went off for a cup of tea) lazy journalists describe it as cutting-edge and estate agents describe it as stunning. In reality, the traditional residents live in near-tolerance of the achingly trendy. Cosy's the last word I'd ever use, though the cutting edge stuff might strike some as fun. It gets invaded at weekends and many evenings by fun-seeking young people. A couple of Holiday Inn EXpress-style places to stay.
Spitalfields, strictly defined, is very different. Traditionally, it's the first port of call for immigrants. An area of stunning Huguenot silk weavers' houses, now covered with more preservation orders than there probably are in the whole of the US, and mostly inhabited by the very, very confortable. A few wine bars and the like provide standard gentrified facilities at the western end of Spitalfields.
Immediately adjacent, to the east, a scruffier area, partly pre 20th century, partly post WW2 public housing, lived in mostly by Bangladeshis, and claiming just about the highest deprivation levels of anywhere in Britain. Practically devoid of hotels: main drag (Brick Lane) quoted in bad guide books as full of good Bangladeshi restaurants. Actually full of very, very average restaurants, mostly patronised by loud groups of whites (and, unlike most other blocks of ethnic restaurants, practically never by the relevant ethnic group). Though the food's pretty mediocre, if you're part of the loud group, you'll probably have a good time. I've never had either a good meal or a bad time there.
Jul 10th, 2006, 08:27 AM
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Flanneruk: Appreciate your thorough descriptions of East London.
What neighbourhood would be more ideal to stay in? Kensington? St Martin's Lane? Bloomsbury? We'd like to explore beyond Mayfair as we seem to be stuck in the area when we stayed there in the past. Incidentally we'll be arriving through Stansted (thus the idea of staying at the Great Eastern Hotel) and departing from Heathrow. We've only had a glimpse of Coventry Garden and Knightsbridge area.
What neighbourhood would be more ideal to stay in? Kensington? St Martin's Lane? Bloomsbury? We'd like to explore beyond Mayfair as we seem to be stuck in the area when we stayed there in the past. Incidentally we'll be arriving through Stansted (thus the idea of staying at the Great Eastern Hotel) and departing from Heathrow. We've only had a glimpse of Coventry Garden and Knightsbridge area.
Jul 10th, 2006, 08:47 AM
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Stayed at the St Gregory in Shoreditch in October 2004 for two weeks as I needed a hotel with internet close to the Financial district. Arriving early on a Saturday morning, I though I had hit a war zone as all the shops were boarded up and it was a bit of a wasteland. A couple days later I took a walk across the raod and under a type of viaduct and came across an amazing mix of design studios, cafes, pubas and clubs. Brick Lane and Petticoat Lane are also very close. I had some lovely food. I went to a tiny pub that had a trivia night and joined in. It is an interesting ad dynamic area - closeto the transport of Liverpool Station. Just remember it is gritty.
Jul 11th, 2006, 12:40 AM
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I wouldn't make it a base for a holiday, but I think "warzone" is a bit extreme. Hoxton/Shoreditch are just dull unless you're the kind of new media skateboarder who knows what's in fashion this lunchtime, but Spitalfields is worth a visit, either for a concert in the church if you can (newly-restored, it's a jewel) or the Sunday markets - or just to wander round the little enclave of Georgian streets around the church.
Jul 11th, 2006, 01:33 AM
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I'm sorry if I gave the impression that the entire area looked like a wasteland etc. As I said, I arrived at St Gregory's on Shoreditch High Road very early on the Saturday morning and all shop fronts were boarded up. That particular area doesn't improve markedly when they do open as they tend to be jobbers and wholesalers. You would be hard pressed to find the shopfronts in that narrow area to be aesthetically pleasing. But as I said, if you cross over the road and go down New Inn Yard, Bateman's Row and Rivington Street you will find a very interesting area.
Walking from Liverpool Station to St Gregory's along Shoreditch High Street (there are lots of buses so it isn't a big issue) after dark was not the best feeling but I happyly wandered around the area bounded by Old Rd and Great Eastern late at night by myself.
One problem was that the staff at St Gregory's had no idea about the neighbourhood and told me I would have to go to Bethnal Green to find a Tesco when there was one directly opposite Liverpool Station. It would have been helpful if they had provided guests with a guide to local attractions, restaurants, neighbourhoods and walks. It was early days for he hotel so hopefully it has improved.
Walking from Liverpool Station to St Gregory's along Shoreditch High Street (there are lots of buses so it isn't a big issue) after dark was not the best feeling but I happyly wandered around the area bounded by Old Rd and Great Eastern late at night by myself.
One problem was that the staff at St Gregory's had no idea about the neighbourhood and told me I would have to go to Bethnal Green to find a Tesco when there was one directly opposite Liverpool Station. It would have been helpful if they had provided guests with a guide to local attractions, restaurants, neighbourhoods and walks. It was early days for he hotel so hopefully it has improved.
Jul 11th, 2006, 02:19 AM
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Yes, it struck me as an odd place to put a hotel, I must say. But eventually, who knows, the neighbourhood might become very upmarket. Once the tube extension works in the area have finished. And the Olympics are over. And....
Jul 11th, 2006, 03:54 AM
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you are asking about hoxton, shoreditch and spitalfields....a very large swath of east london. you should not get the idea that this whole area is a war zone...this is a huge area.
if you read the press or read posts here, it is very difficult to get a good idea of these neighbourhoods. like all things trendy or climbing up or down the shoulders of trendiness, everyone has their own opinion. it is no longer "cool" to say that hoxton is cool. the trendy set will still go to hoxton but whilst there will talk about how it is so uncool and how it used to be cool before the mainstreamers moved in. this banter is best ignored as it is of little value to the average visitor.
the wider central london is not well known for cosy neighbourhoods. but i would call hoxton square rather cosy on a warm saturday afternoon.
yes, you should consider staying in east london and great eastern might be a good compromise as it is not embedded in the depths of east london like some areas of hoxton.
about the boarded up buildings...i'm not sure where you live but in this part of london, you might hear that these areas are gentrified and expensive but then be surprised to go there and see some roughness.
also, like most things in london, the trendiness, or whatever aspect does not come out and bite you. it is more hidden in lofts behind average doors. as are many of the trendy bars and restaurants....well hidden. there are some exceptions but generally, you need to know where to go. i suspect that if a unschooled visitor were thrown into most parts of hoxton, he would have no idea that he is somewhere that is supposed to be trendy or hip...there are far too many repair garages and furniture wholesalers.
in short, it is very difficult to describe these areas and you will find most people who describe them (as you see here) colour the descriptions with their own feelings about the media set, what their own idea of "cool" is etc. you really need to just visit yourself.
if you decide to stay west after all this debate, charlotte street area might suit. it is quite cosy and fun.
if you read the press or read posts here, it is very difficult to get a good idea of these neighbourhoods. like all things trendy or climbing up or down the shoulders of trendiness, everyone has their own opinion. it is no longer "cool" to say that hoxton is cool. the trendy set will still go to hoxton but whilst there will talk about how it is so uncool and how it used to be cool before the mainstreamers moved in. this banter is best ignored as it is of little value to the average visitor.
the wider central london is not well known for cosy neighbourhoods. but i would call hoxton square rather cosy on a warm saturday afternoon.
yes, you should consider staying in east london and great eastern might be a good compromise as it is not embedded in the depths of east london like some areas of hoxton.
about the boarded up buildings...i'm not sure where you live but in this part of london, you might hear that these areas are gentrified and expensive but then be surprised to go there and see some roughness.
also, like most things in london, the trendiness, or whatever aspect does not come out and bite you. it is more hidden in lofts behind average doors. as are many of the trendy bars and restaurants....well hidden. there are some exceptions but generally, you need to know where to go. i suspect that if a unschooled visitor were thrown into most parts of hoxton, he would have no idea that he is somewhere that is supposed to be trendy or hip...there are far too many repair garages and furniture wholesalers.
in short, it is very difficult to describe these areas and you will find most people who describe them (as you see here) colour the descriptions with their own feelings about the media set, what their own idea of "cool" is etc. you really need to just visit yourself.
if you decide to stay west after all this debate, charlotte street area might suit. it is quite cosy and fun.
Jul 11th, 2006, 10:45 AM
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Patrick: It's ashamed that we've passed the trendy media skateboarder stage of our lives because we actually like what we read about the Great Eastern Hotel itself.
Walkinaround: What hotel are you thinking of close to Charlotte Street (Bloomsbury)?. I don't know true, but I have this idea that Bloomsbury is a book publishing smart area, more residential.
Walkinaround: What hotel are you thinking of close to Charlotte Street (Bloomsbury)?. I don't know true, but I have this idea that Bloomsbury is a book publishing smart area, more residential.
Jul 11th, 2006, 11:45 AM
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>>>>
It's ashamed that we've passed the trendy media skateboarder stage of our lives because we actually like what we read about the Great Eastern Hotel itself.
>>>>
dax...you are probably saying this with half seriousness but i think that you were given or have interpreted the wrong impression of this area. this is a HUGE area of london where one corner will have skateboarders/media types and the next will have headquarters of financial powerhouses UBS and BNP Parabas and a third area will have million pound houses and a fourth is the home to bangla-town.
we can not describe every corner of this massive area so i will only start with the area around the great eastern hotel:
-it is attached to liverpool street station, a commuter hotspot monday through friday. very busy with financial types. some (not all) restaurants and pubs only cater to office types and close at the weekends.
-the hotel is also almost in sight of spitalfields market which is known for its trendy clothing. many artists are known to hang out in the bars in this area. spitalfields was half torn down to make room for some new office buildings.
-a new part of spitalfields was built up adjacent to the market which houses new upscale stores and cafes....fully open at the weekend.
-the market is surrounded by trendy bars and restaurants and shops (vintage clothing, etc).
-the george pub which is located inside the hotel was designed by conran...it is in a very beautiful room but unfortunately, they take little care with their beer and the whole thing is poorly run and very underutilised. the staff wear silly, cheap looking shirts in the st george flag motif.
i would have no problem staying at the great eastern and actually would prefer it to many areas of west london ...although i would not suggest a person stays there on a first visit to london (but this is your 4th).
please do not hesitate to ask if you have more questions. i just don't like to see you adjusting your plans as a result of a few remarks that while not totally untrue of some parts of this area do not give the correct impression.
in case you decide on west london:
Charlotte Street hotel
15 Charlotte Street
Fitzrovia
London, W1T 1RJ
Tel: 020 7806 2000
It's ashamed that we've passed the trendy media skateboarder stage of our lives because we actually like what we read about the Great Eastern Hotel itself.
>>>>
dax...you are probably saying this with half seriousness but i think that you were given or have interpreted the wrong impression of this area. this is a HUGE area of london where one corner will have skateboarders/media types and the next will have headquarters of financial powerhouses UBS and BNP Parabas and a third area will have million pound houses and a fourth is the home to bangla-town.
we can not describe every corner of this massive area so i will only start with the area around the great eastern hotel:
-it is attached to liverpool street station, a commuter hotspot monday through friday. very busy with financial types. some (not all) restaurants and pubs only cater to office types and close at the weekends.
-the hotel is also almost in sight of spitalfields market which is known for its trendy clothing. many artists are known to hang out in the bars in this area. spitalfields was half torn down to make room for some new office buildings.
-a new part of spitalfields was built up adjacent to the market which houses new upscale stores and cafes....fully open at the weekend.
-the market is surrounded by trendy bars and restaurants and shops (vintage clothing, etc).
-the george pub which is located inside the hotel was designed by conran...it is in a very beautiful room but unfortunately, they take little care with their beer and the whole thing is poorly run and very underutilised. the staff wear silly, cheap looking shirts in the st george flag motif.
i would have no problem staying at the great eastern and actually would prefer it to many areas of west london ...although i would not suggest a person stays there on a first visit to london (but this is your 4th).
please do not hesitate to ask if you have more questions. i just don't like to see you adjusting your plans as a result of a few remarks that while not totally untrue of some parts of this area do not give the correct impression.
in case you decide on west london:
Charlotte Street hotel
15 Charlotte Street
Fitzrovia
London, W1T 1RJ
Tel: 020 7806 2000
Jul 11th, 2006, 01:46 PM
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Walkinaround: Honestly I'm rather intrigued by your descriptions of the area. Personally I enjoy exploring a dynamic changing area (eg.Berlin Mitte, Hamburg Hafen City) though this is an aberration from my wife's request for a cozy urban area to do nothing. We'll be flying in the early evening from Provence/Languedoc, looking for an urban contrast (we're city people) before heading home to the San Francisco Bay. Can you give me more specifics so we can be more "in the know"? Perhaps describe a few good restaurants/pubs, nearby streets/areas to explore or to avoid. We don't like curry but open to anything else. I realize that Great Eastern has quite a number of restaurants as well. Thanks.
Jul 11th, 2006, 02:31 PM
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Hi, DAX,
Well, I'm wading in here. I've been to London about a dozen times...last one being when the bombing was going on last summer. We were staying at the Montague on the Gardens situated in a really lovely place near the British Museum. It's got a beautiful garden in the back and you can get a room overlooking it. Also, there are tables outdoors and summer barbeques. The food was nice, but nothing really special...just OK for a very nice boutique hotel.
This Christmas, we're going again for some shopping. We're staying near Marble Arch at a nice place very near Marble Arch called the London Montcalm Nikko. It's not on Oxford St., thank goodness, but is a four star hotel and is situated along a crescent of lawn and is a converted townhouses. Quite nice. What's nice about this place is it's so near to everything. We're going to the theatre and eating out at really nice places quite a lot while there, so this is very handy. Not very far from Harrods, Selfridges, Harvey Nicks, etc. Just a walk from one short side of Hyde Park to another. We're along the side along Mayfair, but now I remember that's where you have stayed quite a lot. OK, I'll shut up now.
betsy06
Well, I'm wading in here. I've been to London about a dozen times...last one being when the bombing was going on last summer. We were staying at the Montague on the Gardens situated in a really lovely place near the British Museum. It's got a beautiful garden in the back and you can get a room overlooking it. Also, there are tables outdoors and summer barbeques. The food was nice, but nothing really special...just OK for a very nice boutique hotel.
This Christmas, we're going again for some shopping. We're staying near Marble Arch at a nice place very near Marble Arch called the London Montcalm Nikko. It's not on Oxford St., thank goodness, but is a four star hotel and is situated along a crescent of lawn and is a converted townhouses. Quite nice. What's nice about this place is it's so near to everything. We're going to the theatre and eating out at really nice places quite a lot while there, so this is very handy. Not very far from Harrods, Selfridges, Harvey Nicks, etc. Just a walk from one short side of Hyde Park to another. We're along the side along Mayfair, but now I remember that's where you have stayed quite a lot. OK, I'll shut up now.
betsy06
Jul 11th, 2006, 06:40 PM
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Thanks Betsy, the Montague is actually one hotel that I already marked as a possible choice on the internet but have no idea what the area is like. Were you able to walk to some decent local pub/cafe in the area? Is it very residential or a mix?
Jul 12th, 2006, 11:14 AM
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Walkinaround: I'm still considering the Great Eastern for its Stansted Express convenience as my wife doesn't like multi layered transportation. The question is, does it make sense to take a taxi to Heathrow at 4 am in the morning when we check out of Great Eastern? How much longer compared to taking a taxi from Kensington to Heathrow.
