janisj

There aren't all that many special places in Pimlico. A couple of Asian places and Goya which is a Tapas bar and Spanish Restaurant on Lupus Street which would be a bit of a hike from the Tate. If you don't decide on the Rex Whistler in the museum itself, I'd either head up closer to Victoria or into St James's.

StCirq

I have never had a Pimms and am intrigued. There is a world beyond a good kir or an Apérol Spritz? I'm so ignorant...

SusanP

Janis, I'm really enjoying your report. I'll be in London next year and want an Amber Elixir!

janisj

Fri July 12 - Easy, kick back day - A little tennis on the telly, a little shopping, Tate Modern, early evening.

I'd been running running for 5 days so took it pretty easy on Friday. Stayed in watching the Men's semi final for a bit then headed out to the Royal Exchange in the City. My goodness - its been a few years and lots of changes. Fortnum & Mason has taken over the courtyard and has a full on bar and restaurant plus retail shops - added to all the other boutiques and shops the Royal Exchange really is a shopping destination. I must go back and try Cutter & Squidge -- the most amazing looking cakes and such (in their Soho location they do a 'Wizards Afternoon Tea' in the Potions Room that might be a kick for Harry Potter besotted kids -and adults for that matter. A posh afternoon tea but with 'potions' the guests get to create themselves). My reason for heading out east was the Halcyon Days shop now in the RE. For the las 15 years or so - every trip to London I've bought an enamel box(s). Harrods didn't have any I liked and F&M no longer carries them so figured I'd check out the relatively new HD shop. My quest was successful and as I usually do -- I had them ship it. The VAT comes off the top and more than pays for the postage/insurance and I don't have to deal with the VAT refund at LHR.

Thought about walking west and having a late-ish lunch on the roof terrace at One New Change and visiting St Paul's. But instead walked south and crossed London Bridge hoping that Borough Market would be only tolerably crowded . . . Nope -- absolutely slammed (which I figured would be the case) so I walked on to Tate Modern and had lunch in the Members room upstairs. As busy at Tate Modern is, the Members room is generally much less crowded than either Tate Britain or the V&A. I personally think its because no one can find it and they give up Had a very good smoked salmon sandwich and (I think) a glass of proseco. And a bag of gourmet crisps -- ONLY in England -- Black Pudding & English Mustard flavoured crisps -- yes really. And they were delicious!

Tried to visit the Olafur Eliasson exhibition but is was awfully crowded and since I'll be back in London before the end of its run in January - decided to give it a pass this time. Looks wonderful. (the touted waterfall was turned off for some reason).

Caught a bus back to Westminster Bridge and tube home by about 6:30. Grazed/munched in the flat and caught part of the Federer / Nadal semi. Crashed early.

Next: Saturday - Queen Mary's Rose Garden, Wallace collection/Manolo Blahnik/lunch in The Wallace restaurant, Cocktail @ the Connaught and out to LHR.

Trophywife007

I always appreciate reading your trip reports Janisj and eagerly await the next installment...Lots of detail with possibilities for our next trip. We just missed you at Dior; we were there on July 6 (booked in advance) and walked right in so I'm surprised there was a line during the following week.

janisj

>>so I'm surprised there was a line during the following week.<<

I think it was just that for some reason a lot of people queued too early for their allotted time. Aa for the members' line -- several members mentioned they were surprised there was any queue at all (which was my feeling as well because I've never had to wait for an exhibition before). . . . My guess it was just like on a freeway back home - a little snag and it backs up everything even after the blockage has been totally cleared. There may have been a hiccup right at opening and the tailback effect was still there. Who knows??

Sat July13: - Queen Mary's Rose Garden, Wallace collection/Manolo Blahnik/lunch in The Wallace restaurant, Cocktail @ the Connaught and out to LHR. I packed up (doesn't take long when you travel carryon-only) and left my bag at the front desk. I'm staying out at an Ibis at LHR both to save quite a lot of ££/$$ and to be close to T-3 form my flight home Sunday. Had a 1:30 lunch booking at the Wallace restaurant so went straight to Regents Park and `spent about an hours in Queen Mary's rose garden and sitting by the lake -- considered taking out a pedal boat but just took a bench and watch others having fun. Walked to the Wallace Collection - been several times so mainly concentrated on Boulle furniture and some of the paintings -- but an extra added attraction were the exhibition of scores of Manolo Blahnik shoes in almost every room. They were mostly displayed 3 to 4 shoes on racks under tall glass domes. There were some CRAZY shoes!!!

I love the Wallace restaurant - it feels outdoors but is totally covered. Started with . . . a Pimm's (last one of the trip). Then instead of a main I had two starters - a pork and guinea fowl terrine, followed by a dressed crab & avocado salad. Really quite good. It is a little after 3 PM and my driver isn't coming to Pimlico until 6:30 so I start walking south just sort of meandering. Get to Oxford Street -- and know I'm not doing any shopping so press on in to Mayfair. To Grosvenor Sq checking out the conversion of the old US Embassy (still a long way to go) and remember that the Connaught is only about a block away in Carlos Place. I love the main bar there so pop in for my last tipple of the trip (until the Admirals Club at LHR on Sunday).

Ok -- I'be been to posh places (some too posh by half) and I'm used to getting pre-dinner amuse-bouche. . . . . But I have never ever had a pre-cocktail amuse-bouche I ordered a Fleurissimo: cognac, violet liqueur, sugar cube, bitters and topped up with champagne and rose petals in a coupe glass. Supposedly created for Princess Grace. But first he brought what can only be called an amuse-bouche - a teensy drink that was similar to a bloody mary. Perfect end to an almost perfect week in London. Caught a cab to Pimlico and my justairports arrived about 45 mins later.

Wonderful weather. Not too hot - but came close a couple of days. Did not wear a sweater or jacket once (had one of each but they stayed in the wardrobe the whole week). Met old friends and finally met mrs. flanner. Saw two really good plays. Dior/Mary Quant/Van Gogh/Cindy Sherman. Pimm's and Champs all over town. The Nut Tree. Spring. . . . and WALKING. ALL. OVER. TOWN. This is a biggie. Last year at this time I was just barely off a cane and unable to use the tube or walk much at all. Being able to walk everywhere pain free was such a joy.

northie

Vicky

Morgana

Really enjoyed reading this. You certainly pack a LOT into a few days. Love the way you are so organised that you source an ice cube tray! Any plans to return to North Yorkshire?

vickiebypass

Oh, but 5 days isn't enough! I'm going back to London in November and am sorry I'll miss the Chihuly exhibit at Kew. I also like your verve with having champagne in such elegant locations...I think I'll adopt that style. Rather have that wonderful experience and have an inexpensive dinner in my apartment/hotel room.

janisj

Morgana: >>Any plans to return to North Yorkshire?<<

Sometime for sure but probably not in the next 10-12 months. Tentative plans for my next few trips are London for a week give or take late Nov/early Dec.; Normandy and someplace TBD next Spring; and South Africa Next Aug/Sept. But if the SA trip falls through that would be a good time to get back to Scotland and NE England.

StCirq: You need to try one -- a couple of the post hotels in Paris make Pimm's using Champagne instead of lemonade for the mixer -- you should try it

SusanP: Amber Elixir was really good

northie: Hope you have as nice weather as I did at Kew -- it was lovely.

Vicky: >>I just think I should probably get in some new places before I go back.<<

To get more London 'fixes', what I've done a few times when I travel somewhere else is tack on a few days in London coming or going.

vickiebypass: >>I also like your verve with having champagne in such elegant locations...I think I'll adopt that style.<<

It is an easy style to get used too

janisj

Sunday July14 LHR and home: I stayed at an Ibis in the Bath road just north of LHR -- there are two Ibis along there, I'd assume they are pretty similar. Totally serviceable. Basic room but nice toiletries, very comfortable bed, in-room tea/coffee, and totally soundproofed. Plus on the Hoppa route so perfect for an early AM flight. Mine was ay 10:30 so I really could have stayed another night in town but the Ibis saved about £95 - have to pay for all the Champagne somehow

It has an onsite restaurant and bar but I didn't use either one so don't know how good/bad they are. And if you are looking for something to do -- there is a big bowling alley right next door . . .

Even only flying coach I still got 'premium' printed on my boarding pass so could use the expedited security queue which was a nice surprise. That gave me more time for breakfast in the Admirals Club. We took off about 45 min late late but made up most of that by the time we landed at LAX. Had an aisle seat so it was tolerable . . . EXCEPT the middle/window couple next to me insisted on leaving both widow shades up the entire flight. They were the only two shades up in either economy/premium economy cabin. It was sooooooo bright - like having a klieg light right there. Actually had to wear my sunglasses most of the flight. If the rest of the cabin was lit it would have been tolerable -- but in a totally darkened cabin it was actually painful. (And yes, I did ask them to lower the shade . . . nicely - butno dice.) It wasn't as if they were looking at anything because we were over the wing so they couldn't even see the water.

Food was fine - a pasta something. I watched the last bit of the Favourite I'd slept though on the way over and then finally saw Bohemian Rhapsody And read some of A Woman of no Importance on my iPad (what a fascinating life Virginia Hall lived) -- but with the laser light, viewing / reading was pretty tough.

I can't figure out LAX -- I've flown AA from LHR many times, a few on this same flight . . . sometimes they land at Tom Bradley (BOO) and sometimes at T-4 (YAY). Tom Bradley is a zoo. Landed at T-4 (YAY) and because of Global Entry and no checked bags - I walked in to the Admirals Club about 15 mins after exiting the plane. Then I had 5 hours at LAX before my flight home - walked in my door around 10PM . . . Already missing London . . .

Kathie

What a great trip! Thanks so much for sharing it with us.

thursdaysd

bilboburgler

Pimms; take a pint glass, pour in the cold gin-based Pimms (1/4 of a pint) (don't touch the vodka one), add mint leaves or borage ( if you can find it) and just a few cubes of ice and then top up with lemonade (the real deal not the clear bottle stuff). Sit in shade and drink. Then find a darkened room and sleep for a couple of hours, repeat as long as you can remember your name.

jane1144

Thanks Janis...lovely trip. Sorry you won't be in Scotland this summer.

OReilly64

Thanks Janice. Very entertaining

margo_oz

Great trip report.

Northie - take pics of the Chihuly at Kew, and then let's meet for lunch!

kmowatt

denisea

So glad you got to the wonderful Dior exhibit! I had to laugh at your stop at Trader Vic's ....I was last in one about 10 years ago in Chicago with friends (and a few Scorpion for Four massive drink to share). Kitsch at its best. As I was reading I was willing you to go to Hide for a cocktail! ;-) I do love a Pimm's Cup in summer!

LAX - ugh. Just flew through there to Sydney. Out of T2 outbound to Sydney, Landed at Tom Bradley upon return. I will say Delta ONE has it's own very nice check in area in T2 and I fully understand the flat bed. Lucky to fly in Delta ONE both ways on the Sydney trip. Indispensable for that super long flight (and I had to go straight to the office upon landing in Australia).