Loire Valley...what is it like?
#1
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Loire Valley...what is it like?
Made flight reservations today from Austin to Paris and will spend about 12 days in the Loire Valley late May early June.<BR><BR>Can anyone answer these questions please?<BR><BR>1. Is it similar, less or better than Provence...or just different?<BR><BR>2. Is Blois or Tours the best place to stay?<BR><BR>3. Are the red wines as good as Cotes du Rhone and Chateauneuf du Pape?<BR><BR> <BR>Thank you for your assistance!<BR><BR>US
#2
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i would definitely recommend tours over blois. i spent most of a spring break in the loire river valley and loved it. i would suggest too, that you make the drive up to mont-st-michel... it's a few hours away but my, is it beautiful. it's worth the trip. and yes, the wines are that good. haven't been to provence so i can't answer that question. area is beautiful, i really loved it.
#3
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Answers to your questions...<BR>1) the Loire Valley is very different to Provence: the architecture, the history, the countryside... But it is neither better nor worse. Both places are beautiful! Around the Loire you have the fantastic chateaux at Chenonceau, Amboise, Azay-le-Rideau, Ussé (which inspired Charles Perrault to write the Sleeping Beauty) etc, all the charming villages and the troglodyte dwellings along the river, the wine tasting (Vouvray, Chinon, Saumur...). The architecture and countryside are quite different. One of the most magical sights I've seen was watching the morning mist drift across the Loire river from the tiny fortified village of Condes St Martin. Like a fairy tale.<BR>2. I would say Tours over Blois as I think it's a bit bigger, and makes a good base to visit from. <BR>3. I'm very partial to a bottle of Chinon red, myself. Try it and see!
#5
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I spent 2 and ½ weeks in the Loire Valley in late spring 2001.<BR><BR>I spent two nights at the beginning of May at Angers, Chinon, Tours, Chenonceaux, Blois, Beaugency and Courtalain (near Chateaudun.) I day-tripped to Chartres, Amboise, and Vendome & Orleans. I returned in the middle of June for 3 nights at Saumur. From Saumur I day-tripped to Langeais & Chambord. I used rail for transportation for most of the first group. I had a rental car for the rest.<BR><BR>To answer your questions:<BR><BR>1. I havent been lucky enough to make it to Provence yet, so I cant compare.<BR><BR>2. I think Blois or Tours depends upon a couple of things. If you want to do this by rail, Tours is a rail hub and youd have direct trains to and from places like Chenonceaux, Saumur, Blois, Amboise, etc. Tours being a bigger city has a lot of organized bus tours that depart from the train station area. <BR><BR>I may be mistaken US but I believe Ive seen you praise the virtues of the smaller towns in Europe. If this is correct, I think youd be much happier with Blois. Its a smaller town, not such of a big city feel with a great shopping area, an incredible chateau and lots of nice dining. As I recall Blois also has bus tours out to the chateaux. If you want smaller and more charming I agree with the above poster that Amboise is beautiful. And though a bit further out, Saumur is a personal favorite of mine.<BR><BR>People will tell you that a car is necessary in the Loire though much of it can be done by rail. I specifically chose to do much of it by rail because I like those Loire valley wines and I didnt want to drive. <BR><BR>By the way, Tours confused me for a while. There are two train stations, Tours near the heart of the city & St. Pierre des Corps that is 5 minutes away by rail on the outskirts of Tours. Lots of TGV & bigger stuff goes through St. Pierre des Corps. There are many more rental car choices out there too. I believe a shuttle train runs several times an hour between the two stations. <BR><BR>3. I found the wines to be excellent. As previously mentioned the Chinon reds are wonderful. Saumur has some great whites and a sparkling wine thats excellent too. <BR>
#6
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Having been to both the Loire valley and Provence a half-dozen or more times, I must say they have little in common except language, and even that is different. The geography, the history, the architecture - everything is completely different. Neither is better unless you have a preference for one type of scenery over another.<BR><BR>I very much disagree with others' recommendations to stay in Tours as opposed to Blois. Tours is a fairlty big place, with a ton of traffic - getting in and out of it can eat up a chunk of your vacation. Besides, Blois is simply prettier. My favorite base for the Loire, though, is Amboise.<BR><BR>The Loire is renowned mainly for its white wines. The reds are, IMO, not anywhere near as good as the reds of the Côtes du Rhone or Châteauneuf du Pape, but the Chinon reds are interesting.<BR><BR>If you are going to spend 12 days in the region, might I suggest that you split it up and spend half each in the eastern and western ends of the valley? If you choose a second base in or near Saumur you can better take advantage of the many things to see in that neighborhood - Angers, Saumur, the troglodyte caves, Jean Lurçat's tapestry, etc.
#7
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We just finished two weeks in the Loire Valley (I'll post a full trip report a little later) and were based in Angers. We loved staying there, it is one of the most pleasant and interesting places that we've encountered in the last 3+ years of living in Europe. Saumur was nice, but we found it too touristy, even in late October/November. We dined fabulously well in Angers for pennies compared to Paris. Many restaurants offered 4-course menus (choice of entree, main course+salad, cheese and dessert) for about $15, and for several, that included wine and coffee!<BR>Another big vote for Chinon wines. We became fans of the 1997 Rene Couly Chinon from the Couly-Dutheuil vineyards. They only have 8 cases left and we were happy to drive off with one! The Bourgeuil wines are excellent, too. If you go to Angers or Saumur be sure to stop in the Maison du Vin next to the tourist offices. They will provide free tastings of a variety of wines (mostly Anjou villages, Saumur, Saumur Champigny and Bougeuil). We bought about 7 different labels, all competely new to us and all delicious.<BR>The most we spent for a single bottle was $7. <BR>BTilke
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#8
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I have been to Provence twice and recently (May 2002) spent six days in the Loire Valley. We stayed in Blere (close to Amboise) for three nights and then close to Chinon for the other three nights. When I go back, I will base in Loches - I just really found it to be the my favorite town in the area, although it is somewhat out of the way.<BR><BR>There are so many differences between Provence and the Loire Valley, but the one that struck me the most was that Provence is more colorful. There are stone houses in both areas (and lots of colorful flowers), but in Provence, the doors and shutters are apt to be more colorful than they are in the Loire Valley.<BR><BR>Along with other posters, we enjoyed the Chinon reds and brought some back (and since I got home I found some at Trader Joe's!!!!!). However, I don't think I'll find any red than I enjoy more than Chateauneuf du Pape.<BR><BR>Have a wonderful trip.
#9
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I've been to both placeds and my votes would be:<BR><BR>1) they are just different; I personally probably prefer Provence but I've spent more time there so know it better<BR>2) either would do; I agree Blois if you prefer small towns but I don't know if I'd want to spend 12 days there--Tours has a few interesting things to see in itself plus is a better rail hub, of course<BR>3) no they are not, I prefer Cotes du Rhone
#11
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Chinon is a wine made of Cabernet Franc and generally has a much lighter "body" than those of the Rhone. However, do not miss the great whites made with Sauvignon Blanc and if you can find an aged Chenin Blanc (1989 is best), you are in for a real treat. IMHO, there is no comparison to the Loire reds as the Rhones are much more hearty and flavorful.
#12
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I would pick Blois over Tours, but like others, I would opt for smaller towns. I like Onzain. I would also recommend splitting into 2 sections, doing the eastern and western with different bases. <BR><BR>I think any of the smaller towns would be fine as bases. In addition to Onzain, I have stayed in Loches, Azay-le-Rideau (twice), and Chinon and enjoyed each of them
#13
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Thanks for all the help. This is what we decided to do:<BR><BR>1. Arrive Paris and train to Rouen....two nights Rouen...Hotel de la Cathedrale<BR><BR>2. 3rd night Bayeux...undecided regarding hotel<BR><BR>3. 4th night Mont St. Michel...Le Mere Poulard<BR><BR>5. 5th through 13th..Amboise...La breche<BR><BR>6. 14 through 17...Paris...Renaissance la Defense...WHY?...free with Marriott points and the Marriott Champs was booked.<BR><BR>Thanks for the help!<BR><BR>US
#14
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If you're going to be in the Loire for 12 days, I wouldn't recommend staying in ANY city for more than 2 or 3 days. None are interesting enough in themselves to take up the bulk of your time, and most are interesting enough to deserve a few days. I would recommend a few nights each in Blois (winding, hilly medieval streets), Amboise (ritzier, but small and a bit more boring in city layout), Tours (the biggest Loire city--college town feel with lots of lively bars and youthful hangouts but not much else), and Saumur. You should see as much of the area as possible. Try to stay in a chateau one night if you can afford it. Although it's called the Loire valley, on't expect spectacular rolling hills or beautiful countryside--the royalty of the past liked the ample, flat farmland and hunting woods of the Loire--it is in general a flat, ho-hum area. And my last piece of advice: Spend as much time in Paris as possible! The Loire is wonderful and the chateaux are gorgeous, but they are empty. Paris is living history!<BR><BR>Have fun!
#16
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Hi US -<BR><BR>Since I haven't been to Provence, Tours or Blois, I can't answer the questions you asked. However, you have given out such great advice in the past that I hope to return the favor in some way. Amboise is absolutely charming - it is a great place to stay. It looks like you have your hotel selected - we stayed at Le Vieux Manoir in Amboise. This was the highlight of our last trip to France and Belgium. It is a beautifully restored manor house with two extremely informative owners, Gloria and Robert Belknap. Two top-notch dining experiences recommended by the Belknaps:<BR><BR>Creperie L'ecu: A creperie in Amboise with a charming owner assisted by his equally charming young son. I still dream about our meals there. Delicious crepes accompanied by his friend's locally produced wine. The dessert crepe with lemon creme was heavenly. <BR><BR>Etape Gourmande: A restaurant on a working farm where they produce goat cheese. This is on the way to Villandry, so it makes a perfect lunch or dinner after visiting the fabulous gardens. We were there on a Sunday for lunch, along with locals and their extended families. This was one of the best meals I've had anywhere. Their website is: letapegourmand.com<BR><BR>Have a wonderful trip!



