ekscrunchy

Yes, vauable lesson about those rocks! They took them away from me at security in Rome. But what will they do with them? Bring them back to Maratea, thrown them out?

We are home now and Ii willl finish up once I get my laptop fixed..hopefully soon!!!

bilboburgler

Recently on a volcanic island in the Caneries and the airport was full of signs to not take pumice stone home.

Leave only foot prints and take only memories and photos is a good motto

ekscrunchy

Forgot to mention my most important souvenir: my large cardboard box filled with “serte” of Senise peppers made it through JFK without a glance!!

I will go into more detail but for now will say that the two days spent in Fiumicino town were. Joy!!! And such superb food. Menus very different from those in nearby Rome.

HappyTrvlr

We definitely won’t be staying at FCO hotels anymore after reading about the better options nearby!

bvlenci

Do they have rock-sniffing dogs?

ekscrunchy

Last two days: We drove from Villa Euchelia to Hotel Seccy in Fiumicinoo town to unload our by-then-even-more-copious bags and parcels. We have stayed here before; its decorated in what you might call ancient Roman theme, has about 22 rooms and is always busy rotating guests (many Americans but not on group tours as far as I could tell) in and out as most stay only overnight before or after a flights or a cruise onwards.

When I was asked for my passports (unlike many hotels in Italy, this one wanted see the actual document but not just to take a photo of it). Details jotted down, the front desk woman looked, and looked, and looked for my reservation, without success. Turns out I had booked both the hotel and that night's restaurant, for the following night!!

Luckily, there was ONE room open, a quadruple for 240 euro but which was good for us, as I was planning to rearrange and repack so needed something to prop all the luggage and things on top of. (Rooms at the Seccy are pretty small). But the quad room was perfect! Not pretty but roomy enough except for those tiny typical showers in less-than-luxury hotels). (We would have to move rooms the next day, though)

We then drove back to the airport, to the multi-level parking garage where many rental companies have their fleets parked. It was confusing finding the rental return area, but after that, a dream to drive up and around and up and around and around to the fifth floor and the SIXT location. The car was a dream and I was very happy with my second SIXT experience. WE may have some confusion about the extras we added (extra driver--me--anad good thing cause I did most of the driving!)









That night I was feeling really tired and with some gastro issues as well. Bad timing since I had planned this dinner a long way in advance (I had also messed up the date at the restaurant but, as with the hotel, we rectified it."


I've written about PASCIUCCI AL PORTO before so I will let you know only that many diners made the trek to here from Rome city to eat fish at this legendary establishment, run by the Pasciucci family, a half a block from the Tiber Canal and the marina. The family also rents some rooms but they look very small on the website, so I think we would like the Seccy better.

We were really warmly welcomed by the wife of the chef (I think she is his wife!). Unfortunately, I picked the worst possible night to not feel great, so selected only spaghetti with vongole and I will say that this is perhaps the most perfect rendition of the dish I've ever had. It IS a small portion, served without the shells but rather with the tiny clams piled atop the mound of listening spaghetti.

But even before this, we were given a sliced pillowy loaf of bread from the Roscioli family who own several hallowed food establishments in Rome city and area about to open a restaurant in Manhattan! The hot bread was superlative one its own but when slathered with the fluted dome of butter made with anchovies from Cetera and a touch of oregano...........might have been the best bread experience of my life and partner shared my sentiments even though he "hates" anchovies. with going there just to eat that bread, with the butter. My butter plate had a baked bit of squid ink on top, non idea how they managed to concoct this!!

PASCIUCCI has three Gambrel Rosso forks, the highest gastronomic rank in the country, and also has 2 Michelin stars although these means little to me when in Italy. You've never know it was so lauded, as the servers and the half of the ownership that we encountered are as down home and warm as you could imagine!

Partner, of course, could not find anything on the menu he wanted (to be fair, the a la carte options are not many, as many people order from one of two tasting menus at 140 0r 160 euro. I prefer a la carte and my clam pasta was not listed on the menu and neither was partner's Spaghetti all Amatriciana...at least we were eating dishes common to Lazio!!

We declined dessert but were given a tiny plate with tiny fruit forms: Raspberry, yuzu and peanut. They were not anything of those first of nuts but they were scrumptious!!! Maybe there was chocolate in the mold? Not sure what else!!

We wandered back to the hotel, about a 20 minute walk over the pedestrian bridge and along the canal, to the hotel. The restaurants and cafes near the canal were ablaze with lights and happy looking local diners of all ages..again, I felt as if I were on a film set!!! And that was a Thursday night!!! A great close at a great restaurant to a never-to-be-forgotten trip!!!

Except that night was NOT the close!!!!

When I got back to the hotel I remarked to my partner that I was surprised that Delta has no e-mailed or texted me some info about tomorrow's flight. Well, further investigation told me that not only had I arrived at the hotel a day early, but that I needed TWO nights at the hotel, as our flight would be leaving THE DAY AFTER THE NEXT ONE!!!! All my carelessness, except I did get an extra FULL day in Fiumicino!!!!!

Still a little jet laggy so will finish up very soon..finally laptop is able to be opened!!!

ekscrunchy

Here are some photos from our time in Maratea, coastal Basilicata, at the beginning of our trip. We spent five nights at Villa Cheta and had most meals at the same nearby restaurant, a 15 minute drive from the hotel. The dinner we took at the hotel had one standout dish but in total, was not as satisfying although the setting was lovely. this hotel would be a great choice for those without a car; there is a nearby station (Acquafredda) where some trains from Naples make a stop (more trains stop at the main Maratea station to the south.)

This report is about food:


https://www.hungryonion.org/t/marate...ta-coast/36122

And here are some photos, and food comments, from our 3 nights in Vieste, where we had two standout dinners and one fabulous pizza!



https://www.hungryonion.org/t/gargan...vieste/36074/2

ekscrunchy

Just looked over this report and stunned at all the typos due to having to use the phone instead of the locked laptop.

Knackered yet again but will return tomorrow with comments on second dinner in Fiumicino town.

This was a great trip but We had too many stops especially given the insane amount of clothing I carted around. What is that song with the line, “when will they ever learn……?? (Dating myself here but WHEN will I EVER learn to pack lightly??)

More tomorrow on the now finally unlocked laptop!!

mendota98

Hi eks,
Many thanks for posting trip reports especially the last Italian reports.

May I ask how you choose to eat lunch and dinner?
You mentioned Gambero Rosso where I guess you could enter a city
and than review the various restaurants. Would that be your main method?

Regards,
Mike

ekscrunchy

Mike I am a pretty obsessive planner. way in advance of trip I begin going through Gambero Rosso online (I am on their mailing list which send me great info and recipes too) , and a few other food ties in Italian including that of LucianoPignataro, who writes about the south mostly. But there are many others and I can post them if you like. I don't look much at Michelin. I look at TA for hotels but look at it very carefully and take reviews from some reviewers with a grain of salt.

We eat breakfast and usually dinner with lunch being snacks in hotel room or nothing. Exception is Sundays because Sunday lunch in Italy tends to be a great experience, with all generations around the table.... also because many restaurants are closed Sundays nights and some all day Mondays.

I'm more than happy to explain more of my researching style..just ask!!

BTW: I do similar in Spain, where I rely on the Repsol guide and the local online sites (inn Spanish; happily I can read Spanish well and enough Italian to get the gist..)

ekscrunchy

Mendota that pizza looks A!+++. Yes, I've been to Tokyo and have read about the Japanese have been turning out world-ranked pizza chefs! My most recent visit was just before COVID and I did ot eat any pizza there, but next time I just might!! You know when you have only a short time (about a week only in our recent trip) some os us try to focus on the Japanese foods rather than the imports. But I maybe have to change my strategy..after all, great food is great food no matter where you eat it, right??

shelemm

No doubt that during a long vacation sometimes it's nice to try something different as a change of pace. And by this point pizza is truly an international favorite.

However, considering I can get pizza that makes me swoon just by driving a short distance, I still would focus on situations, experiences, and venues that are just not possible where I live. That's why I'm traveling in the first place.

Personally, I find these lists like '50 best world pizzas' to be laughable at best, and actually harmful in their attempt to create an exclusivity that is as phony as you can get. I understand why they do it; rankings like this are attention-getting ploys filled with self-aggrandizement.

I am reminded of the old MAD magazine cartoon that showed a NYC streetscape:

The first place has a sign that proclaims "Best Pizza on the East Side." The next place says "Best Pizza in the City." Next to that, "Best Pizza in the Country" Then next to that, "Best Pizza in the World." Finally, the last place touts simply, "Best pizza on the block."

It does make sense that high end Italian pastas would be done well in Japan because of their devotion to noodles. A local Korean chef opened an Italian pasta place simply because that way he could charge twice as much for a bowl of noodles. Why knock yourself out for $10 when the same cost of ingredients can get you $20 or more.

ekscrunchy

NOTES ON UNTRAVELED AREA OF BASILICATA..maybe my photos will post here:


https://www.hungryonion.org/t/basili...-world/36261/3

virginiafish

Thank you so much for this report. I know it will come in handy!