shelemm

Strascinati, pepperoni di Senise, cedro,,,, there is a pride of place that is so crucial to fully appreciating the local way of life.

HappyTrvlr

Thanks eks, for your interesting and detailed report. Continue to enjoy your trip!

ekscrunchy

And do not forget N’duja!!!! I bought some at a supermarket today on way back from picking up the medicine!!!!! (Thirty day supply=12 euro; in the US the same amount costs me $96 a month with insurance!!). This one is made in Malta. The US generic is probably from India.

Bilbo I did know they had bufala cheese in Puglia!! Once went to the Vannulo buffalo farm near Paestum and that was a treat. The story of how those animals got to Italy in a good one!!!

I booked a dinner at STANO in Matera for one of our two nights in that city. Ideas for the second night are welcome, especially if they have the peperoni cruschi on the menu. I was thinking about SOUL KITCHEN. But this time will not drag home a gigantic bread from Matera. Or Altamura!!!!

Fra_Diavolo

I'd love to have dinner at ekscrunchy's house.

studenttobe

In Matera I loved my dinner at La Lopa -- highlights: cicerchie soup (with cubes of fried Matera bread and of course cruscho); bacalao; dessert of bitter almond gelato with almond biscuit and olive oil. If I'd had an additional night in Matera I would have eaten there again. I enjoyed Soul Kitchen overall, but the only fabulous thing I ate was the dessert (panna cotta w/cruscho and olive oil).

Leely2

studenttobe, agree with you on Soul Kitchen. It was good but not as good as I had anticipated. By the way, I did dine at La Lopa in May--great food, thank you for the recommendation. The soup they served when I was there was zucchine and it was marvelous. Also had an excellent meal at Stano and hope eks and her partner have a similar experience.

eks, loving your report and hope you post to Hungry Onion when you return. Enjoy the rest of your trip!

studenttobe

So glad you enjoyed your meal at La Lopa, Leely2. Looking forward to another trip to Matera some time (TBD--always the dilemma between places you've loved and new places that you've longed to visit).

Leely2

studenttobe, I get it re: new vs. old favorites. I tend to return to large cities, but not small towns. La Lopa had moved from cicerchie to zucchine when I dined there. (Hope I'm remembering that right, but it was delicious in any case.)
La Lopa crema di zucchine

I think ekscrunchy is still living la dolce vita in Maratea, so hoping we read mroe soon.

ekscrunchy

Leely, I booked La Lopa for this weekend! (Will cancel SoulKitchen, where I had phoned yesterday to book)

I made a typo above, the Cedro is their ETROG in Hebrew. Some of them can cost hundreds of euro! They have to be assessed by the rabbis who flock a few miles south of there to Sta Maria del Cedro every year to choose their fruit.

I contented myself with a bottle of Cedro liqueur from FARMACIA DEI SANI, the small food shop I recommended, above, in the town of Maratea. Bergamot, the prime ingredient in Earl Grey teas, also comes from this coast, further south, closer to Reggio.

And at breakfast here they serve fichi di India, which in Mexico they known as "tuna," hailed in song by Jorge Negrete and other ranchera singers!! It's the pretty fruit of the flat paddled cactus that I think is the nopal in Mexico. The fruit is.......well, ok. On another trip to this area I ignored all the "non toccare" signs and put my hand on the cactus paddle. OUCH!!!
A thousand almost invisible little needles stuck in your hand!

Anyway, unusual for ekscruchy but last night I just could not go to dinnner. We had snacked on caciocavallo and Lucanian prosciutto (excellent, so its not only the Parma and San Daniele we should sample) and some kind of salami piccante (I always ask for products from the "zona"). (Also bought N'Duja to bring home) Well, I actually ask for "locali" and they corrected me and said "de la zona."

And we had some more of those fantastic cherry-filled pastries from Panza in Maratea. This type is specific to Maratea, and is called "BOCCONOTTi." Apparently there are versions all along this coast the vary but this is reputedly among the best...Pastry shell around rich dark cherry filling, but there are also other fillings including Fiji and cream or combo of both. They also sell a version of sfogliatella but not as good as the ones we had in Naples.

So after that lunch (we did not have any good bread, though, in fact we have not had any good bread since we arrived in Italy but surely this will change in Matera; I should not be eating much bread in any case so if I eat it, it should at least be great!!)

And then, a glorious, long swim in the beautiful pool at the hotel (took them 25 years (!!) to get a permit to build the pool, I was told, so how come that awful development along the Calabrian coast seems to sprout up overnight???

After the swim, I was just flat on my face tired and could not think about leaving the room, even to go downstairs to dine at the hotel. So: Partner had to content himself with a replay of lunch but he was fine and I think I was asleep by 8pm! I hate to miss a meal in Italy, not due to hunger but due to curiosity about trying new dishes.

But if you do not eat at the hotel, you do have to brave these roads in the dark and let me tell you, not for the faint hearted although I am more relaxed about driving every day and now have no fear of daylight driving and have already planted my flag in the ground about taking the wheel for tomorrow's drive to Senise and on to Tursi, where we have an overnight. This driving is great for me cause I think th future will mean more solo trips so I need to get comfortable b behind the wheel.

Today will be a day at the glorious hotel pool, hopefully some serious laps, and then dinner at one of two restaurants within 15 minutes of the hotel. Which one to try?? We all should have such easy dilemmas to face!

Finally my photos made it to their laptop from the iPhone....I would love to post some here...but how....will give it a try to just drag them....

studenttobe

That soup looks gorgeous Leely2--and there are those cubes of fried Matera bread that featured in the cooler weather cicerchie soup that I so enjoyed. (Indeed, thinking about that soup prodded me to order this morning 4 bags of cicerchie from an heirloom bean shop that I love. Fun to start thinking of cool weather cooking where I live.) And I like your rule of thumb on the ever present dilemma-revisiting favorite places versus new explorations. Thanks for sharing.

HappyTrvlr

Yes, Fra_Diavolo, dinner at ekscrunchy’s would really be a treat!

ekscrunchy

I am afraid you both would be very disappointed with dinner at the ekscrunchy abode!!!!

So..I can see I am falling behind here, so will try to catch up.

We spent the last day in Maratea relaxing at their GORGEOUS pool and I was able to get in quite a few laps which always makes me so happy. Villa Cheta is gorgeous and the staff are so lovely. Food at the one dinner we ate there had one standout dish--stuffed eggplant--but the rest was not so great (my spigola in salt was overcooked). But the setting is glorious and there were so many other interesting and friendly guests.

On the last night, we returned for the third time to Da Cesare, in Cersuta, about a 10 minute drive along the curvy (!!) SS16 south of the hotel. I was sad that the lobster pasta I was dreaming of was available only with pre-order. So Ii had pasta with what they called scampi but what we in the US might call langoustine. Very tasty but a lot of work for a little meat! It's a really nice restaurant and by there we were like old friends with the staff. Did I mention before the ice cream from Pizzo Calabro? OMG...the thickest gelato I've ever had.....must get there someday to do some serious sampling.


Yesterday we packed up what has now become a caravan of suitcases and bags stuffed with FAR too many clothes and all kinds of assorted foods. It was an easy drive along mostly SS roads to the Azienda Giuseppe Pennella outside Senise, ground zero for my beloved Senise peppers. We had visited him 11 years ago (I shudder when I look at photos of us then, and now, although Giuseppe looks the same!).

We had an appointment at 2pm. It was sunny. It was HOT. We waited. And waited. About 45 minutes after arriving, an older man driving a bettered tractor pulled up and I asked him where I could find Signor Pennella, obviously his boss. Mind you, lots of people here speak in dialect that is not easy to understand!!! Well this fellow did not have his boss' phone number but after some fumbling around, he found it someplace. Called someone, told me their man in question was at home and would arrive soon. Waited some more. Very hot. Very sunny. Finally, a man pulls up in a battered car. But no, this man is not Sr. Pennella, he is coming to MEET with Sr, Pennella!!! I implore him to phone Sr, Pennella. By this time it is way past 3pm.

More waiting and by about 3:45 Sr. Pennella pulls up. But wait..he cannot attend to us now, he has to leave and meet someone else. Takes off in his car after speaking a few minutes with the battered car man (not the tractor man). Promises to return "pronto." More waiting and by now Mr. Ekscrunchy is getting very cranky.

Finally, St. Pennella returns and we begin the pepper discussion. He shows me the hangars piled with peppers in various stages of drying. In between I learn about his son in school in Tirana and his mother in Tarranova di Pollino, and many, many other things, of which I understand maybe 30% if that.
And then, I kid you not, he has to take off again cause he has an appointment but willl be back again, pronto!!!

He did come back in about 10 minutes and from then on, there was MUCh more discussion of Senise peppers of which partner understood nothing and could care even less. VERY cranky. And HOT.
I asked him if he gets any visitors from America and he tells me he is a wholesaler and does not sell to visitors who pop in.

This is going on as long as the pepper afternoon so I will just conclude with saying that I bought 4 "serte" (long strands attached with string) and a few jars of already fried and salted peppers for snacking. My friend who owns a small farm wanted me to bring back seeds but for some reason that could not happen (long explanation of which I understood only "impossible.")

The selections made, it was time for the packing up of the purchases. But first they all have to be cleaned with some kind of apparatus like a dentist would use when they shoot air into your mouth. Then he examines every single pepper and pulls out the ones that are not good.....he shows me the good and the bad and I cannot tell the difference. Apparently it is int he smell and the feel of the pepper. And the color..some have a slightly yellow tinge. Those get yanked off the string.



He then encases the serte of perfect peppers in plastic and seals the top with heat and the bottom with staples. Then threads them through a long cardboard tunnel. I try and mess it all up. Failed the interview for the position!

Now the discussion begins on how best to pack them for the plane: Long discussion. We decide upon a cardboard box, the same one he had used just that morning to send peppers to a wholesaler in California. He also tells me he sells to Buon Italia in New York now!!!!!!! And the he can mail peppers to me anytime!!!!! Thanks goodness partner did not understand all this....

SO; He selects a box that looks very very small to hold all these peppers, plus the gifts of oregano branches (two types) and pulverized pepper that I should use in soup or atop a pasta dish. The mound of peppers is sky high, but slowly, slowly, he manages to press them down and yes, they fit into the box, which he tapes up and makes a handle.

Now it's time for the discussion of when we willl return and go with him and his family to his house near Terranova di Pollino where his parents stay.
Apparently it is "serene" and peaceful there (as opposed to bustling Senise !?!?!). And the mountain air is so fresh and healthy. We must return for a minimum of three nights. Then more talk of family, and the festivals held in the fall in Terranova. Shows me a book with photos of Terrnova, signed by a famous French photographer named "Guy something."

By now it is almost 6pm. Partner is now audibly sighing and making faces at me!!

Giuseppe gets a phone call and tells the caller that he cannot talk because he is hanging out with his "old friends from America." (I hope he means "old" in the sense I prefer!)

Many hugs and promises to return and we are off on the half hour drive to Tursi, to our b&B in the Ratana, the quarter first settled in the 5th century! Many abandoned stone houses, steep streets, a few pretty cats lounging around--all whit by the way.

As arranged,, we meet our host, Martine, originally from London, at the Moda Car Wash, and she leads us deep into the Rabatana and helps us with our bags (left the big one in the trunk with her approval).

Martine bought this place about 20 years ago, along with three others I Tursi. Had a devilish time having them renovated and she has wrought a lost charming and unusual lodging space oozing with character.

We quickly wash up and head up and up and up and up, to their restaurant we had booked, where we had a dinner that tied with Acquapazza in Cetara as the best meal of the trip. Fascinating local produce, gorgeous setting on outdoor terrace with views across the valley.....certainly my BEST pasta dish so far.

I have to get ready to leave for Matera so will return with details of the dinner. The restaurant is PALAZZO DEI POETI, and Martine's B&B is THE ORANGERY RETREAT (also a hotel which looks lovely). Both in Tursi, Basilicata.


https://www.theorangeryretreat.com/


https://www.palazzodeipoeti.it/

https://www.indiansavage.com/tursi-r...zzo-dei-poeti/. for some photos of Tursi and the restaurant

bilboburgler

The south

ekscrunchy

Si, si.......the south!

Simple drive a bit over one hour to Matera. More on dinner in Tursi later.

Right now ensconced in what must be the most visually spectacular hotel in Italy: SEXTANTIO GROTTA DELLE CIVITA, in Matera. In an "Executive Cave," no less! (Last room standing--I booked late)

Have I left this planet????

Matera now appears to be crawling with foreign tourists (head much American English) so once we tear ourselves out of our cave, will report further. Dinner tonight, La Lopa.




A

ekscrunchy

Ok..take it back...a few Asian tourists including a great group of ladies from Kl and HK who we invited into our cave room with their adorable grandchild. Quite a few Italian tourists and some Germans.
The only Americans we met were from California, on a tour. One of the woman asked me, "Do you know the name of this town we are in now??"


Sorry, the name of the quarter in Tursi is RABATANA.....

Leely2

Hope you are having fun! Try to stop by La Latteria for a coffee and to chat with the friendly owners.

Most of the non-Italian tourists when I was there in early May seemed to be French. Also, probably because I stayed at a sort of business hotel not in the Sassi, I only heard Italian in the breakfast room. There was a group at my hotel somehow involved with the nearby music conservatory.

ekscrunchy

OMG..I am in love with this hotel and with Matera, all over again. Yes, there are more tourists but they intrude in no way.

Just to catch up, we spent the night in Tursi, at THE ORANGERY RETREAT, which was a wonderful apartment in an ancient part of Tursi called La Rabatana.

Dinner at PALAZZO DEI POETI is now tied with ACQUAPAZZA in Cetara for the best dinner of the trip so far.
it's in a gorgeous hotel/restaurant, also in the ancient quarter of Tursi and is well worth the trip to that small town to dine there. We were seated outside on the terrace and waited on by the extremely charming and erudite owner, Paolo, who hails from here but spent time studying architecture in Florence before returning home to open the hotel/restaurant. His wife is the cook and quite the cook she is!!

I always try to order dishes specific to the region and this was no exception. Unfortunately, my photo of the menu is unreadable and they have no menu online. So briefly::

After an amuse (what is this called in Italian..must ask!)? of a small shrimp in a light sauce flavored with orange and a green vegetable (sorry to be so vague), we opted to begin with two pastas:

Partner ordered "mischiglio," which is a pasta made with durum flour but also with ceci and fava bean flour traditionally added, to stretch the more costly grano duro in this once (and still) very poor region of Italy. (It's now sold in shops and made at home and is welcomed by people who prefer not to eat much gluten) It
is a tan-colored pasta; this was in a strascinati form and was cooked with cardoncelli mushrooms, sausage and bits of pepperoni cruschi. "Fantastic!" was the verdict.

My primi was frizzele with smoked caciocavallo cheese, tiny sautéed tomatoes, pepperoni cruschi, and the Stacia oranges for which Tursi is noted in the SlowFood Ark of Taste. This was one of the best pastas, and one of the most unusual, I've ever tasted. Just marvelous.

For the second, we shared Podolico veal (very thin slices of meat from cattle native to the south and also in the Ark of Taste) perfumed with Tursi oranges and seasoned with black salt.


https://www.fondazioneslowfood.com/e...-podolica-cow/

I can't find the bill now but if I do find it I will post the price, which was very reasonable.

I highly recommend this restaurant, even if you do not stay in Tursi. And Tursi itself seems to me to have the potential to become a much smaller version (without the caves) of Matera..an ancient town with many abandoned buildings and a striking view over the valley and the calanches typical of this landscape. It's just about 90 minutes over excellent roads from Matera, and quite close to the abandoned town of Craco, which we had visited last time and which I would also highly recommend. (Now one must enter Craco with a guided tour, rather than sneak through the wires as we did 11 years ago!)


From Tursi, as I wrote, we drove to Matera and for our first dinner we chose LA LOPA. Another standout dinner which I will try to describe later. Tonight is TRATTORIA STANO. And tomorrow we, very sadly, have to leave this exquisite cave (!!) and head across the border to Puglia, where we will spend three nights, largely for food reasons!!

Melnq8

I think I've gained 10 lbs just reading this thread!

As an Italy novice, I'm completely unfamiliar with the areas you're visiting, but during the past few years our annual trips to Switzerland have crept into northern Italy. We've recently discovered the fabulous food there and have nine nights booked in Chiavenna and Domodosolla on our upcoming trip, which we've earmarked for eating (we leave in two days!). We'll also spend 10 nights in the Dolomites in December with the attitude of 'if we can't hike, at least we can eat'.

Carry on.

Maribel

Loving this wonderfully detailed report, ekscrunchy!

yestravel

Still loving this great TR. You are making me want to go back to Villa Cheta and that entire area. I do remember the curvy, narrow road.