Live Trip Report: Vienna, Slovenia, Croatia, and Italy
Aug 13th, 2010, 03:28 AM
#21
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We did find that Dubrovnik is very busy, but mostly during the mid day when the cruise ships and tourist buses are in. We saw people up on the wall at all times of the day, but I think it looked scorching hot there. We found that the best time was about 5:30. We needed about two hours stopping for pictures and it was much easier to find shade.
Aug 13th, 2010, 03:49 AM
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ExplorerB - We were just in Dubrovnik and Korcula in July, in fact I'm working on editing my photos and writing my trip report. Very admirable of you to write as you go along. Are you going to Split next? Are you planning to visit Mostar?
You mention the guys lining up to stand on that rock jutting out from the wall - it's apparently a tradition that young men try to stand on the ledge, facing the wall, and remove their shirt before falling off - that means they have achieved manhood. But the little ledge slopes downward making it very difficult to do. So that's why you saw all those people trying to do it.
hiplederhosen - we did find Dubrovnik overwhelmingly crowded. As ExplorerB is pointing out, it is incredibly beautiful and I am very glad I went, but the crowds, at least in July were about the worst I've encountered anywhere, and I've been to Europe every July for the past ten years. It's mostly the cruise ships. In the evening after they leave (spewing dirty brown smoke that lingers for an hour), and early morning it's not so bad. We did the wall walk from about 5pm till closing (7:30) - cooler and less crowded. We also left for day trips on two of our four days, and took a walk out of town and a boat ride the other day. I'm a big believer in summer in Europe, but Dubrovnik is one place I wish I'd been able to see in the off season. Korcula on the other hand was lovely.
You mention the guys lining up to stand on that rock jutting out from the wall - it's apparently a tradition that young men try to stand on the ledge, facing the wall, and remove their shirt before falling off - that means they have achieved manhood. But the little ledge slopes downward making it very difficult to do. So that's why you saw all those people trying to do it.
hiplederhosen - we did find Dubrovnik overwhelmingly crowded. As ExplorerB is pointing out, it is incredibly beautiful and I am very glad I went, but the crowds, at least in July were about the worst I've encountered anywhere, and I've been to Europe every July for the past ten years. It's mostly the cruise ships. In the evening after they leave (spewing dirty brown smoke that lingers for an hour), and early morning it's not so bad. We did the wall walk from about 5pm till closing (7:30) - cooler and less crowded. We also left for day trips on two of our four days, and took a walk out of town and a boat ride the other day. I'm a big believer in summer in Europe, but Dubrovnik is one place I wish I'd been able to see in the off season. Korcula on the other hand was lovely.
Aug 13th, 2010, 06:12 AM
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Thanks so much for this wonderful trip report of areas that are so beautiful. We've been to Dubrovnik twice and to Lake Bled and Ljublijana once but hope to return. Your wonderful report is pushing us even more in the direction of returning sooner rather than later. Enjoy.
Aug 13th, 2010, 01:25 PM
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Greetings, isabel & Julie:
Thank you for writing. Following a memorable two-day stay in Korcula, we will take a three-hour ferry ride back to Dubrovnik. Our original plan was to travel to Split for a one-day stay, but we had problems making an easy flight connection from Split to Rome. Still, staying in Dubrovnik for an addditional day is no hardship; from there we will spend three days in Sorrento, then three days in Rome, and then conclude our holiday with an overnight in Dublin.
Please stay tuned.
Thank you for writing. Following a memorable two-day stay in Korcula, we will take a three-hour ferry ride back to Dubrovnik. Our original plan was to travel to Split for a one-day stay, but we had problems making an easy flight connection from Split to Rome. Still, staying in Dubrovnik for an addditional day is no hardship; from there we will spend three days in Sorrento, then three days in Rome, and then conclude our holiday with an overnight in Dublin.
Please stay tuned.
Aug 13th, 2010, 02:01 PM
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August 13 - The Enchanting Island of Korcula
Here's something to ponder when planning a holiday. It's a quote I saw on the door of Gradski Muzej, a city museum here in Korcula-"Old is nice."
It's a simple statement, but I agree. Everywhere we looked today in the old town, it was like stepping back into the 14th century. St. Mark's Cathedral had wrought iron designs, cast iron weaponry, beautiful paintings,and an old wooden statue of Rocco, a French saint, pointing to a wound on his leg. He is a saint of cures.
At the Gradski Muzej, we got a glimpse of life of nobility over the centuries here in Korcula. The kitchen was on the third floor with cast iron kettles, on the middle floor were China plates, old maps, navigation instruments, and a handmade wooden piano. Outside the museum we saw several Venetian lions reminding us that Korcula was once controlled by Venice.
Lunch was right on the water at Kornoba Morski where we had delicious and tuna sandwiches on whole grain grinder (hoagie) rolls. While we ate we chatted with a father and his adult son from Croatia. They had their rescue dog lying at their feet and showed the dog our picture of Cooper on our Ipod Touch.
In the afternoon we decided to head to the beach. Walking out the front door of our accommodation we were astonished to see a big cruise ship pulling into the harbor. We took some pictures of it and found a flat rocky place our towels. Stepping into the water which drops off rather quickly, but is rocky along the shore, my plan was to wade in slowly, but when I looked down there were sea urchins everywhere clinging to the rocks. Yikes! I had no choice except to leap over them and jump right in. Swimming here is like a dream come true. The water is so clear you can see the bottom even if you are out quite deep. The view of the old town from the water was incredible with stone walls and ancient towers with flags at the top flapping in the breeze.
Heading back to our sobe, Dave suddenly realized he had put the key in his bathing suit pocket and after swimming it was now at the bottom of the Adriatic. When we told the husband of the owner, he did not look pleased. "Big problem," he said and he told us his wife would be over in an hour. Waiting for her I was worried. I had visions of eating slices of take out pizza and McDonalds for the rest of this trip, but his wife couldn't have been nicer. It turns out the big problem was they wouldn't be able to get us a new key until tomorrow so we would need to ring the bell when we came back from dinner.
Before heading to dinner we went to Buffet Massimo which is at the top of a wall tower. You actually climb a ladder to get there and anything you order is delivered by a pulley. Our dinner was at Adio Mare in their outdoor garden. We aren't generally meat eaters, but their grilled steak was the best ever. It was served with grilled zucchini and peppers. The restaurant is right behind the old stone house where legend has it that Marco Polo once lived.
By 11:00 the big cruise ship was gone, but in its place was a sleek elegant small ship from London. Tonight Korcula has an exciting vibe. Seaside cafes are busy with candlelit tables, the outdoor market stalls are still open selling everything from coral jewelry to flip flops which are needed on the pebbly beaches, and children of tourists are on the steps selling shells they have painted. Up at the top of the old town, an acappella group from Croatia is performing and by our accommodation is a guitarist.
Thinking back to the quote at the museum "old is nice" it seems that although this is true, Korcula has done a wonderful job blending the old world with the new. Much of the old town is stone and, as the museum pointed out, ever since the first inhabitants came to Korcula they have etched their history in stone and we are witness to that now. Yet among all of this is a new modern vibe. I think we have found a new favorite place!
Here's something to ponder when planning a holiday. It's a quote I saw on the door of Gradski Muzej, a city museum here in Korcula-"Old is nice."
It's a simple statement, but I agree. Everywhere we looked today in the old town, it was like stepping back into the 14th century. St. Mark's Cathedral had wrought iron designs, cast iron weaponry, beautiful paintings,and an old wooden statue of Rocco, a French saint, pointing to a wound on his leg. He is a saint of cures.
At the Gradski Muzej, we got a glimpse of life of nobility over the centuries here in Korcula. The kitchen was on the third floor with cast iron kettles, on the middle floor were China plates, old maps, navigation instruments, and a handmade wooden piano. Outside the museum we saw several Venetian lions reminding us that Korcula was once controlled by Venice.
Lunch was right on the water at Kornoba Morski where we had delicious and tuna sandwiches on whole grain grinder (hoagie) rolls. While we ate we chatted with a father and his adult son from Croatia. They had their rescue dog lying at their feet and showed the dog our picture of Cooper on our Ipod Touch.
In the afternoon we decided to head to the beach. Walking out the front door of our accommodation we were astonished to see a big cruise ship pulling into the harbor. We took some pictures of it and found a flat rocky place our towels. Stepping into the water which drops off rather quickly, but is rocky along the shore, my plan was to wade in slowly, but when I looked down there were sea urchins everywhere clinging to the rocks. Yikes! I had no choice except to leap over them and jump right in. Swimming here is like a dream come true. The water is so clear you can see the bottom even if you are out quite deep. The view of the old town from the water was incredible with stone walls and ancient towers with flags at the top flapping in the breeze.
Heading back to our sobe, Dave suddenly realized he had put the key in his bathing suit pocket and after swimming it was now at the bottom of the Adriatic. When we told the husband of the owner, he did not look pleased. "Big problem," he said and he told us his wife would be over in an hour. Waiting for her I was worried. I had visions of eating slices of take out pizza and McDonalds for the rest of this trip, but his wife couldn't have been nicer. It turns out the big problem was they wouldn't be able to get us a new key until tomorrow so we would need to ring the bell when we came back from dinner.
Before heading to dinner we went to Buffet Massimo which is at the top of a wall tower. You actually climb a ladder to get there and anything you order is delivered by a pulley. Our dinner was at Adio Mare in their outdoor garden. We aren't generally meat eaters, but their grilled steak was the best ever. It was served with grilled zucchini and peppers. The restaurant is right behind the old stone house where legend has it that Marco Polo once lived.
By 11:00 the big cruise ship was gone, but in its place was a sleek elegant small ship from London. Tonight Korcula has an exciting vibe. Seaside cafes are busy with candlelit tables, the outdoor market stalls are still open selling everything from coral jewelry to flip flops which are needed on the pebbly beaches, and children of tourists are on the steps selling shells they have painted. Up at the top of the old town, an acappella group from Croatia is performing and by our accommodation is a guitarist.
Thinking back to the quote at the museum "old is nice" it seems that although this is true, Korcula has done a wonderful job blending the old world with the new. Much of the old town is stone and, as the museum pointed out, ever since the first inhabitants came to Korcula they have etched their history in stone and we are witness to that now. Yet among all of this is a new modern vibe. I think we have found a new favorite place!
Aug 13th, 2010, 06:02 PM
#26
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Explorer, I am really enjoying your report. My great-grandparents and my maternal grandfather were born in Karlovac, southwest of Zagreb. I've always wanted to go to Croatia and see if I can find long lost family. As a matter of fact, it was this desire that brought me to Fodors.com almost five years ago. 
Thanks for sharing... for now I am living vicariously through you! )
Thanks for sharing... for now I am living vicariously through you! )
Aug 14th, 2010, 09:11 AM
#28
hi explorer,
i am enjoying your report very much, not least because you have managed in one trip, to visit places that i visited 30 years apart. 30 odd years ago in the days of package tours and Tito, we went to Bled and Dubrovnik on our honeymoon, and last year we went to Vienna.
looking forward to more,
regards, ann
i am enjoying your report very much, not least because you have managed in one trip, to visit places that i visited 30 years apart. 30 odd years ago in the days of package tours and Tito, we went to Bled and Dubrovnik on our honeymoon, and last year we went to Vienna.
looking forward to more,
regards, ann
Aug 14th, 2010, 12:33 PM
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August 14 - Back to Dubrovnik
Traveling independently on a budget may not be the same as a first class tour, but it can lead to some new and different experiences. Today we had an interesting adventure taking a three hour car ferry from Korcula back to Dubrovnik.
As the ship pulled into the port in Korcula, my first impression was it looked like a small cruise ship. Our tickets said deck and I envisioned a nice cool lounge inside with panoramic windows, but for that privilege you must eat at a restaurant. We ended up sitting outside on the floor under the life boats. Not exactly first class, but with our picnic lunch it felt more like a genuine experience. All around us people were reading or just watching the view. Turns out it was a transport ship for people and cars, but for $30, it was worth it. Had we gotten on at an earlier port, we probably could have gotten a deck chair.
Arriving in Dubrovnik was a bit of a hassle. The street in front of the terminal was blocked off for a festival and we ended up carrying our luggage quite a distance in the full sun to the taxi stand. There's a heat wave here. Our accommodation is Aparments Pavisa and it is right next door to our other sobe here in Dubrovnik.
As a special treat, we decided to take an evening cruise. There are so many choices here ranging from catamarans to pirate ships. For our budget, we chose a glass bottom boat panoramic cruise and it was perfect. There were only 6 of us on the boat so we could easily move around. Not only that, there was a glass viewing area in the middle of the boat and although we didn't see exotic fish, we all agreed the water here looks almost purified. Our boat driver never said a word, but that freed us up to explore on our own. The brochure for the cruise was amusing. It said, "Beautiful view of maritime soil."
Walking around after dark, Dubrovnik looks beautiful with the churches lit up, old fashioned lanterns on the streets, and candlit cafes. There's a crowd outside with the parrots and the girls from London are with the mother cat and her kittens. In the harbor there's a fancy sailing ship with tiny lights on the masts. When traveling on a budget, we won't be sailing on it, but traveling like this we are closer to the people. I think I like it this way best.
Traveling independently on a budget may not be the same as a first class tour, but it can lead to some new and different experiences. Today we had an interesting adventure taking a three hour car ferry from Korcula back to Dubrovnik.
As the ship pulled into the port in Korcula, my first impression was it looked like a small cruise ship. Our tickets said deck and I envisioned a nice cool lounge inside with panoramic windows, but for that privilege you must eat at a restaurant. We ended up sitting outside on the floor under the life boats. Not exactly first class, but with our picnic lunch it felt more like a genuine experience. All around us people were reading or just watching the view. Turns out it was a transport ship for people and cars, but for $30, it was worth it. Had we gotten on at an earlier port, we probably could have gotten a deck chair.
Arriving in Dubrovnik was a bit of a hassle. The street in front of the terminal was blocked off for a festival and we ended up carrying our luggage quite a distance in the full sun to the taxi stand. There's a heat wave here. Our accommodation is Aparments Pavisa and it is right next door to our other sobe here in Dubrovnik.
As a special treat, we decided to take an evening cruise. There are so many choices here ranging from catamarans to pirate ships. For our budget, we chose a glass bottom boat panoramic cruise and it was perfect. There were only 6 of us on the boat so we could easily move around. Not only that, there was a glass viewing area in the middle of the boat and although we didn't see exotic fish, we all agreed the water here looks almost purified. Our boat driver never said a word, but that freed us up to explore on our own. The brochure for the cruise was amusing. It said, "Beautiful view of maritime soil."
Walking around after dark, Dubrovnik looks beautiful with the churches lit up, old fashioned lanterns on the streets, and candlit cafes. There's a crowd outside with the parrots and the girls from London are with the mother cat and her kittens. In the harbor there's a fancy sailing ship with tiny lights on the masts. When traveling on a budget, we won't be sailing on it, but traveling like this we are closer to the people. I think I like it this way best.
Aug 14th, 2010, 12:41 PM
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Hello, gruezi and all recent respondents:
I have only had the pleasure of touring Europe, including Slovenia and Croatia, in August. Therefore, the question about traveling in December is not easy. Clearly, the weather is prone to be more rainy and gray, with certain areas, especially in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, somewhat snowbound. Daylight, of course, is shorter, but crowds are much smaller, too. This can be especially beneficial in highly touristic places like Dubrovnik. In short, I wouldn't consider travelinmg to these` areas in December to be highly desirable, but not bleak either. After all, you're bound to experience some wonderful Christmas markets.
I have only had the pleasure of touring Europe, including Slovenia and Croatia, in August. Therefore, the question about traveling in December is not easy. Clearly, the weather is prone to be more rainy and gray, with certain areas, especially in the Julian Alps of Slovenia, somewhat snowbound. Daylight, of course, is shorter, but crowds are much smaller, too. This can be especially beneficial in highly touristic places like Dubrovnik. In short, I wouldn't consider travelinmg to these` areas in December to be highly desirable, but not bleak either. After all, you're bound to experience some wonderful Christmas markets.
Aug 15th, 2010, 11:59 PM
#32
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August 15 - We're off the Italia1
Transition days are hard for me. I tend to become attached to wherever I am and leaving Croatia was particularly difficult. Our transition today took us to the Amalfi Coast of Italy to Sorrento.
When traveling in Europe, it's always amazing to use how cheaply you can travel between countries on cut-rate airlines. Today we too an Easyjet flight between Dubrovnik and Rome, but was it on time? No. It was delayed by three hours. Thank goodness for the free wifi access codes given to departing passengers.
At the departure gate, it was chaos at Easyjet. People were crowding into a small space to be first. Fortunately we had flown these airlines before and had paid just a little extra for speedy boarding. Along with five other people we got on our own bus to the plane and got to pick any seat we wanted. We all felt like VIP's.
Our flight to Rome was under an hour and after three easy train connections we arrived in Sorrento. Our accommodation, Settimo Cielo, is high on a cliff above the ocean. We have a balcony with a view of Mt. Vesuvius and the ocean, and there's a refreshing pool right under our balcony.
Dinner tonight was at Ristorante Delfino. To get there we had to walk down a long winding road to the waterfront below our hotel. Our table was outside literally three feet above the water. This area seems to be a special destination for Italian holidaymakers and their family. Some people were swimming at the beach even though and it was close to midnight and children played soccer on the beach.
Tonight from our balcony we can see all the twinkling lights of the Gulf of Naples and fireworks to commemorate a holiday are lighting up the sky in the distance. Transition days are hard. When I came here I felt in my heart was still in Croatia, but I am already starting to love this place too.
Check out the live webcam from our hotel to see the view we have from our room!
http://www.hotelsettimocielo.com/
Transition days are hard for me. I tend to become attached to wherever I am and leaving Croatia was particularly difficult. Our transition today took us to the Amalfi Coast of Italy to Sorrento.
When traveling in Europe, it's always amazing to use how cheaply you can travel between countries on cut-rate airlines. Today we too an Easyjet flight between Dubrovnik and Rome, but was it on time? No. It was delayed by three hours. Thank goodness for the free wifi access codes given to departing passengers.
At the departure gate, it was chaos at Easyjet. People were crowding into a small space to be first. Fortunately we had flown these airlines before and had paid just a little extra for speedy boarding. Along with five other people we got on our own bus to the plane and got to pick any seat we wanted. We all felt like VIP's.
Our flight to Rome was under an hour and after three easy train connections we arrived in Sorrento. Our accommodation, Settimo Cielo, is high on a cliff above the ocean. We have a balcony with a view of Mt. Vesuvius and the ocean, and there's a refreshing pool right under our balcony.
Dinner tonight was at Ristorante Delfino. To get there we had to walk down a long winding road to the waterfront below our hotel. Our table was outside literally three feet above the water. This area seems to be a special destination for Italian holidaymakers and their family. Some people were swimming at the beach even though and it was close to midnight and children played soccer on the beach.
Tonight from our balcony we can see all the twinkling lights of the Gulf of Naples and fireworks to commemorate a holiday are lighting up the sky in the distance. Transition days are hard. When I came here I felt in my heart was still in Croatia, but I am already starting to love this place too.
Check out the live webcam from our hotel to see the view we have from our room!
http://www.hotelsettimocielo.com/
Aug 16th, 2010, 11:29 PM
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August 16 - Along the Amalfi Coast
Whenever I mentioned to anyone that I was going to Italy this summer, they told me I must see the Amalfi Coast. Today I got to find out why.
We started our day with a bus ride from Sorrento to Amalfi and the trip was just as all the guidebooks said it would be. Cliffs rise high above the Gulf of Naples and the road that follows it is quite a feat of engineering. Skillfully our bus sped up to the top of the cliff and made one hairpin turn after another. Looking down below we could see villages rising like steps from the sea, olives and lemon groves, and tiny beaches tucked into hidden coves.
The town of Amalfi was much busier than we expected. A sea of holidaymakers sat on the beach under yellow, green, blue or candycane striped umbrellas. Some swam or used paddleboats, others slept or listened to music, and some even had espresso delivered to them in real espresso cups.
Lunch was at Cafe Francese Amalfi. It is an Old World cafe dating back to 1845 with beautiful wood and brass fixtures. We ordered paninis and frozen lemon mousse which is the best I have ever had. It was light, fluffy, and tasted so fresh the lemons might have been on the trees yesterday.
In the center of town is the Cathedral of Amalfi. It is undergoing considerable restoration and they have uncovered beautfiul frescoes hidden under centuries of plaster. The church also features a museum of church relics such as the bones of St. Andrew and a intricately carved cross made of mother of pearl.
Walking around the main shopping street, lemon products were displayed everywhere. Limoncello was sold in beautiful bottles along with lemon soap, lemon table cloths, and lemon marmalade. I found myself attracted to an appealing display of baskets of lemons in front of benches with comfy lemon yellow cushions. I ordered a glass of fresh lemon and orange juice which they hand squeezed right in front of me. I was happy when the owner told me I could have it on the cute benches until I realized I had become a live advertisement for the store.
Since it was a nice sunny day, we took a boat back to Sorrento. It was a high speed jet ferry with seats inside and out. Watching the shoreline dotted with ancient watch towers, we couldn't imagine what it might have been like for people long ago to make a living on a cliffside that rises like a mountain from the sea. The boat stopped briefly in Positano and it looked like a very relaxing place for a holiday on the beach.
Back in Sorrento at the dock it was so hot and humid that most people could not picture themselves hiking up the road to the top of the cliff to the main part of town. Everyone piled into a bus including us which was so packed people were literally bursting out the doors. The only problem was this was a 15 minute break for the driver. In this heat no one could believe the driver was casually standing around having a cigarette and conversation and called out in Italian to leave now. Finally he boarded to cheers of bravo. There was so much enthusiasm and energy that the whole bus broke out in a series of Italian songs, possibly sports related. As we got off the bus in town, they all cheerfully called out, "Arrivederci!" to us.
Tonight was decided to have a picnic dinner on our balcony. As we ate, two giant cruise ships all lit up sailed right by our accommodation with their long deep horns echoing throughout the town.
We could see hundreds of flashes from cameras all over the ship. I am sure Sorrento looked as magical to them as they did to us.
Right now we are sitting outside on the balcony enjoying the lights in the distance. Everyone was right about what they said about the Amalfi Coast. In Italy, it certainly is the place to be.
Whenever I mentioned to anyone that I was going to Italy this summer, they told me I must see the Amalfi Coast. Today I got to find out why.
We started our day with a bus ride from Sorrento to Amalfi and the trip was just as all the guidebooks said it would be. Cliffs rise high above the Gulf of Naples and the road that follows it is quite a feat of engineering. Skillfully our bus sped up to the top of the cliff and made one hairpin turn after another. Looking down below we could see villages rising like steps from the sea, olives and lemon groves, and tiny beaches tucked into hidden coves.
The town of Amalfi was much busier than we expected. A sea of holidaymakers sat on the beach under yellow, green, blue or candycane striped umbrellas. Some swam or used paddleboats, others slept or listened to music, and some even had espresso delivered to them in real espresso cups.
Lunch was at Cafe Francese Amalfi. It is an Old World cafe dating back to 1845 with beautiful wood and brass fixtures. We ordered paninis and frozen lemon mousse which is the best I have ever had. It was light, fluffy, and tasted so fresh the lemons might have been on the trees yesterday.
In the center of town is the Cathedral of Amalfi. It is undergoing considerable restoration and they have uncovered beautfiul frescoes hidden under centuries of plaster. The church also features a museum of church relics such as the bones of St. Andrew and a intricately carved cross made of mother of pearl.
Walking around the main shopping street, lemon products were displayed everywhere. Limoncello was sold in beautiful bottles along with lemon soap, lemon table cloths, and lemon marmalade. I found myself attracted to an appealing display of baskets of lemons in front of benches with comfy lemon yellow cushions. I ordered a glass of fresh lemon and orange juice which they hand squeezed right in front of me. I was happy when the owner told me I could have it on the cute benches until I realized I had become a live advertisement for the store.
Since it was a nice sunny day, we took a boat back to Sorrento. It was a high speed jet ferry with seats inside and out. Watching the shoreline dotted with ancient watch towers, we couldn't imagine what it might have been like for people long ago to make a living on a cliffside that rises like a mountain from the sea. The boat stopped briefly in Positano and it looked like a very relaxing place for a holiday on the beach.
Back in Sorrento at the dock it was so hot and humid that most people could not picture themselves hiking up the road to the top of the cliff to the main part of town. Everyone piled into a bus including us which was so packed people were literally bursting out the doors. The only problem was this was a 15 minute break for the driver. In this heat no one could believe the driver was casually standing around having a cigarette and conversation and called out in Italian to leave now. Finally he boarded to cheers of bravo. There was so much enthusiasm and energy that the whole bus broke out in a series of Italian songs, possibly sports related. As we got off the bus in town, they all cheerfully called out, "Arrivederci!" to us.
Tonight was decided to have a picnic dinner on our balcony. As we ate, two giant cruise ships all lit up sailed right by our accommodation with their long deep horns echoing throughout the town.
We could see hundreds of flashes from cameras all over the ship. I am sure Sorrento looked as magical to them as they did to us.
Right now we are sitting outside on the balcony enjoying the lights in the distance. Everyone was right about what they said about the Amalfi Coast. In Italy, it certainly is the place to be.
Aug 18th, 2010, 12:21 AM
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August 17 - A Day at Pompeii
Today was a day of culture, learning, and fun. We visited the ancient ruins of Pompei.
Since it was a sunny day outside we decided to stroll down the long winding road leading from our hotel to the town and stop at some interesting sights along the way. Just parallel to the main street is a pedestrian zone that's a tourist's delight. One store after another offers limoncello samples and products and you can actually watch how it's made and bottled. Hundreds of shoppers were there and the streets were so narrow we had to rescue a long trailing silk scarf off David's backpack that got snagged on a keyring. In the middle of this area is the Sorrento Men's Club. Surrounded by frescoes on the walll, men, mostly retired, talk and play cards. No women are allowed.
Another interesting sight was the Lemon Grove Garden right in the heart of the city. As we walked through the lemon grove it was hard to imagine that right beside it are apartments and a playground. Benches made of logs were conveniently placed on the paths. Suddenly a voice called out, "Hello!" It came from an organic lemon stand at the entrance. We tried traditional limoncello along with blueberry and licorice flavored. It seemed so surreal that it would be there in a place where we were the only visitors at the time.
On the train trip to Pompei, an accordion player and his preschool age son appeared. The skill of the accordion player was terrible, but even sadder was the son solemnly walking in front of him, hands cupped, but receiving no coins.
Our visit to Pompeii was amazing. In August 79 AD, Mt. Vesuvius erupted and buried Pompeii in 30 feet of volcanic ash. It wasn't until the 1600s that the area was discovered and excavations began in 1748.
Pompeii was much more extensive than I ever imagined. There is an incredible network of stone streets with chariot wheel tracks worn right into the stone over the centuries. People seldom cooked so there is evidence of restaurants with huge brick ovens, stone wheat grinders, and marble counter tops with holes to hold warming pots. Several houses had mosaic tile floors and frescoes on the walls.
Continuing on our tour we discovered several dogs lying in the cool shade of the houses. One was even sleeping inside a bathtub in the bath house. Signs at the entrance encouraged people to consider adopting one of these dogs. In the meantime they are being sheltered and cared for by the Pompeii Heritage site staff. Before leaving we toured an ampitheater and saw ancient lead pipes, jugs, and plaster casts of people and a dog as they were found during excavations.
Tonight in town we were pleasantly surprised to discover it had become a pedestrian zone for the evening. Hundreds of people casually strolled down the street and even the most fashionable shops were open.
Dinner was at Ristorante Pizzeria S. Antonio. The manager was so friendly and made a point to stop at each table to chat with the people.
On our way back to the hotel we stopped at Gelateria Primavera. The gelati here is so good that even Pope Benedict has been here and they have the pictures to prove it. It was so jammed in there you just had to just order the first flavor you saw. For us it was Irish Cream and it was delicious.
Looking across the Gulf of Naples after midnight, we can no longer see Mt. Vesuvius. It's hard to believe what happened so long ago at Pompeii. I'm glad I got to see it today.
Today was a day of culture, learning, and fun. We visited the ancient ruins of Pompei.
Since it was a sunny day outside we decided to stroll down the long winding road leading from our hotel to the town and stop at some interesting sights along the way. Just parallel to the main street is a pedestrian zone that's a tourist's delight. One store after another offers limoncello samples and products and you can actually watch how it's made and bottled. Hundreds of shoppers were there and the streets were so narrow we had to rescue a long trailing silk scarf off David's backpack that got snagged on a keyring. In the middle of this area is the Sorrento Men's Club. Surrounded by frescoes on the walll, men, mostly retired, talk and play cards. No women are allowed.
Another interesting sight was the Lemon Grove Garden right in the heart of the city. As we walked through the lemon grove it was hard to imagine that right beside it are apartments and a playground. Benches made of logs were conveniently placed on the paths. Suddenly a voice called out, "Hello!" It came from an organic lemon stand at the entrance. We tried traditional limoncello along with blueberry and licorice flavored. It seemed so surreal that it would be there in a place where we were the only visitors at the time.
On the train trip to Pompei, an accordion player and his preschool age son appeared. The skill of the accordion player was terrible, but even sadder was the son solemnly walking in front of him, hands cupped, but receiving no coins.
Our visit to Pompeii was amazing. In August 79 AD, Mt. Vesuvius erupted and buried Pompeii in 30 feet of volcanic ash. It wasn't until the 1600s that the area was discovered and excavations began in 1748.
Pompeii was much more extensive than I ever imagined. There is an incredible network of stone streets with chariot wheel tracks worn right into the stone over the centuries. People seldom cooked so there is evidence of restaurants with huge brick ovens, stone wheat grinders, and marble counter tops with holes to hold warming pots. Several houses had mosaic tile floors and frescoes on the walls.
Continuing on our tour we discovered several dogs lying in the cool shade of the houses. One was even sleeping inside a bathtub in the bath house. Signs at the entrance encouraged people to consider adopting one of these dogs. In the meantime they are being sheltered and cared for by the Pompeii Heritage site staff. Before leaving we toured an ampitheater and saw ancient lead pipes, jugs, and plaster casts of people and a dog as they were found during excavations.
Tonight in town we were pleasantly surprised to discover it had become a pedestrian zone for the evening. Hundreds of people casually strolled down the street and even the most fashionable shops were open.
Dinner was at Ristorante Pizzeria S. Antonio. The manager was so friendly and made a point to stop at each table to chat with the people.
On our way back to the hotel we stopped at Gelateria Primavera. The gelati here is so good that even Pope Benedict has been here and they have the pictures to prove it. It was so jammed in there you just had to just order the first flavor you saw. For us it was Irish Cream and it was delicious.
Looking across the Gulf of Naples after midnight, we can no longer see Mt. Vesuvius. It's hard to believe what happened so long ago at Pompeii. I'm glad I got to see it today.
Aug 18th, 2010, 09:55 AM
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ExplorerB,
I'm very much enjoying your continuing Euro-report. I especially liked hearing about the dog adoption program at Pompeii. I wish the staff there the best of luck in their efforts - most commendable of them to do it.
A quick question: Italy's Circumvesuviana line between Naples and Sorrento seems a little sketchy. Would travelers going between those two points be better served taking a` bus? It seems many tourists have had run-ins with young thugs. Can you provide us with more details as regards safety on that trakin line?
I'm very much enjoying your continuing Euro-report. I especially liked hearing about the dog adoption program at Pompeii. I wish the staff there the best of luck in their efforts - most commendable of them to do it.
A quick question: Italy's Circumvesuviana line between Naples and Sorrento seems a little sketchy. Would travelers going between those two points be better served taking a` bus? It seems many tourists have had run-ins with young thugs. Can you provide us with more details as regards safety on that trakin line?
Aug 18th, 2010, 10:27 AM
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Thanks for the great report. We are spending 2 weeks in Slovenia next June. We are planning 4 days at Lake Bled and a week in a hiking facility in the mountains (no tourists!)
I still haven't found the cheapest way to get there, but am still trying !
I still haven't found the cheapest way to get there, but am still trying !
Aug 18th, 2010, 10:46 AM
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Great trip report! I like your writing style and level of detail. FYI, for people asking about the crowds in DBV, we were there in mid-May last year and it was not crowded at all, in fact it was difficult to find a restaurant where we were not the only people in it. During the day it was crowded a bit with cruise ship folks, but by afternoon it was quite empty.
Aug 18th, 2010, 09:39 PM
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Hiplederhosen- We have also heard some reports about`Italy's Circumvesuviana line between Naples and Sorrento. When we were on it there were lots of tourists, but we did make sure to hang onto any bags or cameras, especially when the doors opened for a new station. It is a line where there are pickpockets. We were advised by some locals whom we met on the eurostar to avoid this line at night.
Aug 18th, 2010, 09:41 PM
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August 18 - Rome
Early this morning when we woke up, a huge cruise ship was in the harbor with bright orange tenders ferrying people to shore. Below our balcony people were already splashing in the inviting pool and at the beach below, brightly colored umbrellas were popping up everywhere. Zipping our bags closed, I impulsively suggested we spend one more day here, but after considering all the costs, we decided to move on to Rome with a promise to ourselves to return to this same hotel, Settimo Cielo, in the future.
On the train trip to Naples, the first leg of our journey, there was a lot of "entertainment." The accordion player and his son from yesterday reappeared followed by a more talented player and even a small group with a saxophone, bongos, and a tambourine. I'm not sure if any of them got money from our car.
Fortunately the train to Rome, a eurostar, was more comfortable. We grabbed some last minute sandwiches out of a vending machine. They looked like they were bursting with cheese and mushrooms, but it was a trick. They were only sticking out of the side of the sandwich and the inside was mostly bread.
Our hotel, Hotel Paba, is just down the road from the Colosseum. We visited San Pietro in Vincoli to see Michelangelo's statue of Moses. It was very striking with a detailed cloth and beard all carved in marble. This church is a significant pilgrimage site. The church also featured the prison chains of St. Peter.
Using our Rick Steves' Rome 2010 guide, we decided to check out all three of his suggestions for good restaurants in the ancient section of Rome and all three were out of business. It just goes to show that good restaurants come and go all the time. We ended up at a fun pizza place near our hotel called Wanted.
After dinner we headed over to the Roman Forum. People were everywhere taking photos, and looking down into the site, it showed that Rome will forever be an ongoing archaeological dig.
Tonight the Colosseum looked stunning all lit up with a half moon behind it. Some families posed with outstretched hands as if they were holding it up while others just sat and stared at it in awe. We climbed the steps behind the Victor Emanuel Monument and discovered an Italian tv show being filmed with part of the Forum as a backdrop. Tomorrow will be another hot humid day in Rome, but I can't wait to explore some of the ancient parts of this amazing city.
Early this morning when we woke up, a huge cruise ship was in the harbor with bright orange tenders ferrying people to shore. Below our balcony people were already splashing in the inviting pool and at the beach below, brightly colored umbrellas were popping up everywhere. Zipping our bags closed, I impulsively suggested we spend one more day here, but after considering all the costs, we decided to move on to Rome with a promise to ourselves to return to this same hotel, Settimo Cielo, in the future.
On the train trip to Naples, the first leg of our journey, there was a lot of "entertainment." The accordion player and his son from yesterday reappeared followed by a more talented player and even a small group with a saxophone, bongos, and a tambourine. I'm not sure if any of them got money from our car.
Fortunately the train to Rome, a eurostar, was more comfortable. We grabbed some last minute sandwiches out of a vending machine. They looked like they were bursting with cheese and mushrooms, but it was a trick. They were only sticking out of the side of the sandwich and the inside was mostly bread.
Our hotel, Hotel Paba, is just down the road from the Colosseum. We visited San Pietro in Vincoli to see Michelangelo's statue of Moses. It was very striking with a detailed cloth and beard all carved in marble. This church is a significant pilgrimage site. The church also featured the prison chains of St. Peter.
Using our Rick Steves' Rome 2010 guide, we decided to check out all three of his suggestions for good restaurants in the ancient section of Rome and all three were out of business. It just goes to show that good restaurants come and go all the time. We ended up at a fun pizza place near our hotel called Wanted.
After dinner we headed over to the Roman Forum. People were everywhere taking photos, and looking down into the site, it showed that Rome will forever be an ongoing archaeological dig.
Tonight the Colosseum looked stunning all lit up with a half moon behind it. Some families posed with outstretched hands as if they were holding it up while others just sat and stared at it in awe. We climbed the steps behind the Victor Emanuel Monument and discovered an Italian tv show being filmed with part of the Forum as a backdrop. Tomorrow will be another hot humid day in Rome, but I can't wait to explore some of the ancient parts of this amazing city.
