Maribel

Hi zebec,
Lucky you! I've never seen him in person, and I don't think I'll run into him since he won't be my neighbor, and I doubt he'll be shopping at our local Costco

Boo hoo about your Ainsa choice. But a couple of nights at the Parador de Ordesa should be lovely and relaxing, or at least it was for us.

Are you sure you want to be in the super, super crowded now Barri Gotic in Barcelona, kind of overrun with tourists?
How about the nice, bohemian, interesting Vila de Gràcia neighborhood, just north of the Eixample?
Just a thought...

https://spanishsabores.com/gracia-neighborhood-guide/
https://bcn-life.com/expats-in-barce...od-is-the-best

zebec

Gracias so much Mari, the info-links you've provided above are EXACTLY what a travel site forum should be all about: sharing good information. Dig that B&W foto of the kids in those boxes! Outstanding.
Must confess that we know zilch about Barca. So your gently steering us towards Gracia (do we say grah-thee-ah?) will make a huuuge difference.
We'll probably still go to the Gotic because I am a pickpocket by hobby - that's how we finance all our travels.
That and renting parasols to lazy vacos.

Eks, where is your fave Barca neighborhood?

I am done. the return to Eks' journey

Maribel

zebec,
You are sooooo funny!
The Barri Gotic is exactly where I was pickpocketed, but I'm absolutely sure it wasn't you! This thief on bicycle got away with nothing. He grabbed me by the neck and ripped off my silver and gold necklace, but this delicate, beaded necklace disintegrated into pieces during the assault, and the pieces all fell to the ground. So thief got away with zilch. I'm done. The lost forever necklace.

Eks's favorite hood is the Eixample, I think.

danon

zebec,

Like eks, I prefer the elegant Eixample, ( Bay/Bloor is my hood 😀 in TO) , but we also stayed in other parts of Barcelona .
Gracia neighbourhood is much more appealing to me than overcrowded, touristy BG.

Maribel

And since my "jewelry mishap with the aggressive cyclist/thief in the Barri Gotic", I never, ever wear any visible jewelry when walking the Barcelona streets. And yes, when walking around in the very elegant Eixample, at least, I can relax a bit more and not be as vigilant as to my personal belongings.

Now, on to ekscrunchy and her Andalusian-Madrid adventures, both past, present and future!

lrice

EKS , I believe you are in Miami ... I am as well. Glorious weather!

zebec I love the Gothic Quarter in Barcelona! We stayed in Eixample as well and really liked it. Here is our apartment: https://www.habitatapartments.com/en...ew/pedrera.htm
And for some reason, every time I go to my VRBO account, this apartment pops up and looks gorgeous!
https://www.vrbo.com/8995396ha?adult...unitId=5064081

Maribel

Both of those apartments are in nice locations, the first on the very nice Rambla de Catalunya (near where we have stayed), that runs parallel to the Passeig de Gràcia. The second VRBO is in a nice location further north, above the Diagonal (the northern end of the Eixample), closer to the Vila de Gràcia.
And Habitat is a very reputable company.

When renting a Barcelona apartment, it's essential that it have a TOURIST LICENSE NUMBER, like this one for the Pedrera Habitat apartment: Tourism license number : HUTB-010616

If you don't see this HUTB number, the apartment isn't legal.

Maribel

eks,
Back to Madrid dining--
On your next visit, I think you may want to return to LÚA. You can enjoy classic Galician fare like caldo gallego, salpicón de mariscos, verdinas con carabineros, rape y langostinos, pulpo a feira along with more inventive creations. The chef has updated the menu, adding many dishes available in half portions so his diners can try more dishes, he's eliminated the tablecloths and added more seats, now 45 in the dining room and 30 on the covered terrace.

While keeping his tasting menu priced at 92, the chef says that most of his regulars have preferred to dine a la carte. Although he lost his Michelin star, his regulars have remained faithful, although he says that he now receives fewer foreign guests. (He eliminated the bar due to covid.)
We're going to return soon, and I'll let you know what I think.

Tomorrow we're going to try a new, casual Galician taberna, AGARIMO ("agarimo" means "affection" in gallego) in the Ponzano area (Bretón de los Herreros). This is for my quest to compile a list of excellent sit-down places where a couple can dine very well for 40-50/p.(with a glass of wine each or modest bottle) and that have an excellent RCP (relación calidad/precio), like many of the Michelin Bib Gourmands.

With all the new, "hot" openings with soaring prices, this has become my mission----

So far I´ve tested La Llorería and Morgana in Chueca
Uskar. La Lorenza,, Tatema and La Caníbal in Lavapiés
Brutalista in Argüelles
Trèsde and Barmitón in La Latina
Sagrario Tradición, La Tajada and Cachivache Taberna in Chamartín
Los 33 and Casa Orellana in Salesas
AskuaBarra and Casa Mortero in Cortes
La Montería, Marcano, La Castela, Castelados, Salino, La Raquetista and La Catapa in Retiro
Las Tortillas de Gabino and Taberna Garelos in Almagro
Vinoteca Moratín in Letras/Huertas
La Maruca, Ocafú Taberna Gallega and Bar H Emblemático in Salamanca.

(Plus there´s all the market dining I mentioned on HO). Just a little list for others looking for solid value, sit-down dining (not tapas) in Madrid.

ekscrunchy

I rented once in Eixample, and would choose that area next time.
Never in the Barrio Gotico.

Now this was years ago, maybe 20 years ago, but we actually watched as a pickpocket grabbed the purse off the shoulder of a young woman and ran.
Same trip, we met a couple who were unloading their suitcases from their car in front of a hotel on Las Ramblas, and thieves grabbed that bags and made off with them.

Again, this was years ago.

I have not been back to Barcelona in maybe 8 years and Ii think one of the reasons is that I wonder if the feel of the city has been impacted by all the digital nomad types and that restaurants I choose would be filled with non-Spaniards.........I'm sure I'd love it if and when I do go back, though....

Maribel

ekscrunchy,
To give you an idea of the soaring real estate prices in Madrid's Chamberí district, not to even mention Salamanca or Jerónimos, these from James Edition came in my inbox today:

https://www.jamesedition.com/real_es...rrace-14050272

https://www.jamesedition.com/real_es...adrid-13853834

https://www.jamesedition.com/real_es...rhood-13871364

https://www.jamesedition.com/real_es...racia-14050273

https://www.jamesedition.com/real_es...magro-13647341. (near the Orfila!)

And this is the price for living in Amber Heard's El Viso:
https://www.jamesedition.com/real_es...-viso-13661886

Madrid, the new Miami.

danon

Thank you for the list. Much appreciated . I suspect many posters prefer eating at informal restaurants and gastro bars . Me included, especially when traveling alone.

Revulgo

danon,
As you know, in Madrid not only the touristy Mercado de San Miguel. The Mercado de Antón Martin is part of the new trend for gourmet markets, where traditional food stalls sit alongside various restaurants, serving up largely street food and international cuisine, with flavours of Spain, Italy, Asia and Latin America. The market is spread over three floors: on the ground and first floors, there are over 60 food stalls, as well as various eateries, and on the third floor we find the "Amor de Dios" dance school, which has been teaching Spanish dance since 2002.
Best eateries for foodies: Yokaloka for Japanese snacks (stands 79-80), Doppelgänger for creative cuisine (stands 44-47) and Asian Army for food from SE Asia (stands 7-11)
https://www.mercadoantonmartin.com/mercado-gastronomia

Maribel

But Revulgo, LaLópez Bar in the Mercado Antón Martín is really the best!!! You just can't beat Mailalen's hospitality, Sergio´s creations, and for visitors, she speaks perfect English (like you!!), and she's also BASQUE (like "you know who"). and from San Sebastián . Sincio is my runner-up. LaLópez is much, much loved by my madrileño foodie friends, They have a huge following on Instagram and among chefs. Both recently reviewed on Hungry Onion.

(La López Bar and Sincio are not as cheap as the others and wine bottle prices are higher, but genuinely gourmet, both of them)

Revulgo

You're surely right, since I haven't been to LaLópez yet, this eaterie didn't come to mind.

Maribel

Go!

danon

thank you very much for the link.
I love those kinds of establishments .
San Miguel is too crowded and , even if I am one🙂 , too touristy.
Mercado de la Paz is minutes from the hotel I stay at when in Madrid.
I walk through the market every day,
there is always a lineup for Casa Dani !

Maribel

danon,
Instead of the Casa Dani inside the market, have you tried the new Casa Dani at Calle Lagasca 49 with its entrance BEFORE you reach the entrance on Lagasca to the market itself?
It doesn't get nearly as crowded. But it doesn't open until noon.

Hours of the Casa Dani "restaurant":
Tues-Fri from noon until 8 pm
Sat. from noon until 5 pm

danon

Thanks, noon (and later) works for me !

ekscrunchy

Maribel you are a wonder! That list you compiled is gold!!

I will put LUA on the list. But now, a year in advance, that list already has 4 entries: Lua, Tasquita de Enfrente, Sacha, and Hevia!!!!! And of course, Casa Dani. And goodness knows what will come up between now and my next visit!!!

I'm plugging along on HungryOnion now.....as you can see!!!

I keep pondering Barcelona, where I have to been in a long time. And every time I come to this forum, or read another article, I add another city to my list!!

I spent a few hours reading a most unusual travel blog about a Singaporean couple who spend about 50 days with a rental car in Spain. They skipped almost every obvious destination and did tons of walks....they did find some interesting-looking places I'd never heard of. They also went to Bardenas Reales (skipped Tudela), so I keep thinking about a trip to Logrono, Rioja, etc.... I will post that blog on a separate thread...lots of photos, lots of walking, lots of eggs and cake (!!) And many many inexpensive lodging which they document very well.

Revulgo

eks,
Logroño... Calle Laurel... pinchos...
guia-pinchos-2023.pdf (callelaurel.org)