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Live...from spain!!! Cordoba, costa de da luz (vejer de la frontera area, madrid

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Live...from spain!!! Cordoba, costa de da luz (vejer de la frontera area, madrid

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Old Apr 16th, 2024, 11:51 AM
  #381  
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Just for fun, I will close now with the scene I walked into when I was checking out the following day, after five nights in Madrid---A WEDDING party, taking photographs !! And it must have been a huge wedding at that, judging from the number of guests milling around, not to mention photographers and men who, to my eye, looked a lot like bodyguards--huge, well built, earpieces in ear, standing tall and keeping close watch on the scene. The groom seemed happy that I snapped a few shots, too.

Wedding party photo shoot in the lobby of Hotel Orfila, on a Tuesday morning....

Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 16th, 2024 at 11:55 AM.
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Old Apr 16th, 2024, 03:26 PM
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Maribel We can't have you AWOL! lol We need you!
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Old Apr 16th, 2024, 11:48 PM
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Eskcrunchy,
I knew you would love SACHA. And you were lucky that corujas were on the menu the day. "Contundente" is a very important word to note, which means, when referring to a particular dish, "very, very ample in size or rich and filling".
In short....too much for the single diner.

Everyone loves SACHA, and yes, you have to get back to the Chamartín and Hispanoamérica neighborhoods, as there are more excellent dining venues up there, far from the trodden tourist trail.

I love your last photo of the wedding. The Orfila and the Palacio de Santo Mauro nearby do society wedding receptions well.
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 03:13 AM
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Just a secondary comment about the bread and aperitivo (welcome dish) charge...it's customary, so diners should be aware and should not complain. And this charge must be printed on the menu.

With a simple, inexpensive menu of the day (menú del día) bread is always included in the price, as well as with an expensive tasting menu (menú de degustación or menú gastronómico).

Ekscrunchy,
I'm very surprised that you weren't given a complimentary welcome dish or "aperitivo". It's just customary at a restaurant of that caliber.

Funny story: a friend, way back in the day, dined at a Barcelona restaurant and saw on his bill the charge for the "cubierto" (bread service or cover charge), looked the word "cubierto" up on google, saw the translation as "place setting" and complained to me that said restaurant had charged him for using their silverware!, his knife, spoon and fork! Outrageous. I had to explain...

Every restaurant that we visit, does charge for the bread service, and most often it will be accompanied by an aperitivo or amuse-bouche. The bill may say "pan y aperitivo" or just "servicio de pan" or "servicio de pan y pico" or just "pan" (if no amuse bouche is served) or "pan y aceite" (if a special olive oil is poured to accompany your bread). It depends.

I don't mind paying 5 euros/p for the bread service (in Barcelona it's the usual charge at high-end restaurants), but the bread must be heavenly.
At the Soria Parador it was, 3 choices of artisan bread with 2 choices of olive oil, arbequina or picual, and the charge was only 2.30/p

In Sevilla, Cádiz and Málaga, the bread service at a casual Taberna usually includes a small bag of picos (little bread sticks) or a bag of picos and regañás (rectangular shaped small pieces of bread covered with sesame seeds and sometimes flavored with olive oil).
https://www.panaderiaobando.com/prod...stico-gourmet/
https://malagagourmet.net/en/reganas/

From my recent receipts, I see varying charges (servicio y pan), from 1.50 total (Taberna de San Miguel Casa el Pisto) to 1.50/p (Alboroque) 1.70/p (Taberna de Almodóvar) to 1,80/p (Disparate & La Cosmo) to 2 euros/p (La Ermita de Candelaria) to 2.5/person (La Cuchara de San Lorenzo).

At La Catapa, diners are always asked if they want the bread (we usually turn it down, as it's not particularly noteworthy). On the menu it's printed as "Cestillo de pan y picos", 1.50.

And diners there are given a choice of several different complimentary aperitivos along with their drink order---
-chistorra (the Navarran chorizo), bígaros (periwinkles, shaped like a tiny snail), patatas revolconas (mashed potatoes flavored with paprika, a specialty of Extremadura), gambitas (tiny boiled shrimp) or boquerones con patatas fritas (white anchovies in vinegar served with potato chips) or sometimes morcilla (black pudding).

Plus with the dessert or coffee service, a complimentary chupito (shot glass of Navarran patxarán or crema de orujo, which tastes like Bailey's Irish Cream).

Last edited by Maribel; Apr 17th, 2024 at 03:16 AM.
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 03:49 AM
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On another note, La Catapa often has corujas off menu, but their season is fleeting.

Now, about HEVIA!
It's an absolute classic, from 1964, at Serrano 118 (not far from the US Embassy), now in the 3rd generation, one that we love, just to have a wine and aperitivo at the bar, or a full meal in the pleasant and elegant outdoor terrace in the summer.
When I was a grad student, it was my special treat to dine at HEVIA, and it sits just around the corner from where I lived.

It's just one of those sophisticated, timeless, even mythic family-run "casas de comidas" that are in shorter and shorter supply these days. They were the first to serve Russian caviar and French cheeses and foie in Madrid when the current owners' grandfather opened it as a gourmet bar, BAR HEVIA.

Like the gourmet deli, Mantequerias Bravo, it serves the impeccably dressed "carriage trade" of the Barrio de Salamanca so it makes for great people watching, especially on weekends.

The 3rd generation owners, brothers Ismael and Fernando, have opened a casual, inexpensive spin-off, also in Salamanca, on the corner of Juan Bravo and Castelló called BAR H EMBLEMÁTICO, that we often visit because it serves breakfasts, almuerzos (the mid-morning snack), lunches, meriendas (afternoon "tea time") and dinners.

They even serve "guisos" (stews) as the "plate of the day" and rice dishes, including an arroz del señorito (señorito= a "dandy", a dish in which the shrimp come already peeled--dandies don't like to get their hands dirty), accompanied by alioli.

Come here for the classics, impeccably done.
Critics say their cocido is one of the city's best (I've never had it here).

Although inexpensive by Salamanca district standards, it has that "Hevia" elegance to it, with refined service and comfortable seating in a designer-done space.
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 08:36 AM
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Maribel,
I am still not sure if comida or almuerzo is the correct word to use when asking for a table at lunch time.
My Spanish teachers have all been from Mexico or further south. As you know, they use “ ustedes” (not “ vosotros” )
which I still occasionally do.

Last year a friend and I had diner at Atzábal….they brought a big container of butter to the tabes along with the bread.
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 08:55 AM
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In Spain, it would be "comida". The "almuerzo" in Madrid is the mid-morning snack (tortilla or a bocadillo or whatever), taken about 11 am, or after. Casa Dani does a big "almuerzo" business at its counters, when workers come in for their half hour or so break.

In Valencia, this mid-morning meal is called esmorzaret and is hardly just a snack, it's a huge, extremely filling bocadillo (baguette filled to the brim with goodies).
This custom of esmorzaret was featured in the Valencia episode of José Andrés and family go to Spain on CNN. I don´t remember where they had theirs, but a great place to have this is at Ricard Camarena's Central Bar in the middle of Valencia's Mercat Central. His bocadillos are amazing.

Ah yes, that big bucket of delicious butter brought to each table at Arzábal. Ymmm!! It's impossible to resist. It's their signature.

Last edited by Maribel; Apr 17th, 2024 at 09:03 AM.
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 09:06 AM
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Originally Posted by Maribel
In Spain, it would be "comida". The "almuerzo" in Madrid is the mid-morning snack (tortilla or a bocadillo or whatever), taken about 11 am, or after. Casa Dani does a big "almuerzo" business at its counters, when workers come in for their half hour or so break.

Ah yes, that big bucket of delicious butter brought to each table at Arzábal. Ymmm!! It's impossible to resist. It's their signature.

Some Mexicans I know call it "lonche!!"

We were never taught vosotros in school; I'm sorry Ii never learned that but I suppose its not to difficult to pick up....

Maribel, If I am in a restaurant, should I address the waiter by "tu," or by "usted?"

I absolutely love learning all these new words. And last night, before Maribel posted the meaning, I looked up "contudente," from the SACHA carta, and could not find an applicable definition. (It's defined as "blunt!")

Here is one I learned from a (Venezuelan) staff member at the hotel in Madrid. He was recounting a stay in Barcelona, where he found the locals to be much less welcoming than they are in Madrid. He told me that once when he addressed a person in Castilian, that person seemed to be insulted by the use of that language. And replied by calling the visitor a "Gentuza."
He thought it was because he was not speaking in Catalan but maybe the reason for the insult was that he was Latin American, who knows. But is that word a horrible insult? Do normal people use it in conversation? (In Mexico we would say "malcreado," maybe that has the same meaning (???)

We really ought to have a separate thread, with Maribel as our Professora. There we can go into all these interesting words in detail...(I'm sure, Maribel, you have tons of free time for that!!)
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 09:17 AM
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Well, since my first, late husband was a madrileño, we always used the vosotros form with everyone. Very few Spanish teachers in the US (except for the two of us, and other professors from Spain) teach the vosotros form.

About the wait staff: I just address them by "tú" since most of the waiters say to us "Hola chicos, ¿qué os pongo?"
But these are the casual places where we're known and where we started as "señores" because we were first timers, then after repeat visits, we became "Chicos" or just "Pareja". I'm very happy when we finally go from "señores" to "chicos".

But I wouldn't dare do that at Saddle or Horcher or Coque or any other high falutin place.

Ouch!!!, "gentuza" is a very strong word! I would never, ever use it with someone, as it would be quite insulting. No, it doesn't have the same meaning as "malcriado".

Last edited by Maribel; Apr 17th, 2024 at 09:20 AM.
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 09:26 AM
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Originally Posted by Maribel
Well, since my first, late husband was a madrileño, we always used the vosotros form with everyone. Very few Spanish teachers in the US (except for the two of us, and other professors from Spain) teach the vosotros form.

About the wait staff: I just address them by "tú" since most of the waiters say to us "Hola chicos, ¿qué os pongo?"
But these are the casual places where we're known and where we started as "señores" because we were first timers, then after repeat visits, we became "Chicos" or just "Pareja". I'm very happy when we finally go from "señores" to "chicos".

But I wouldn't dare do that at Saddle or Horcher or Coque or any other high falutin place.

Ouch!!!, "gentuza" is a very strong word! I would never, ever use it with someone, as it would be quite insulting. No, it doesn't have the same meaning as "malcriado".

So now you've let yourself in for another question: What exactly is the meaning..stronger than "low life?" "Trash?" What would be the English equivalent, Professora?
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 09:36 AM
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Maribel and eks, thanks.
Spanish, like any language , presents a number of possible “ traps” for the learner.
From correct choice of ser / ester or por/ para , to seldom used in English, but essential in Latin language: subjunctive 🙀
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 09:42 AM
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eks,
You've got it.

I could write a book about "traps" and especially "false cognates" or "false friends". Those are some of the first things I taught my students.
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 09:45 AM
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Originally Posted by Maribel
eks,
You've got it.

I could write a book about "traps" and especially "false cognates" or "false friends". Those are some of the first things I taught my students.

I'm ashamed to say that I have no idea what a cognate is!
And what is a "false friend?"

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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 09:51 AM
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Ah, ekscrunchy, you didn't have moi as your Spanish teacher!

False friends: works that you think you know what they mean because of the spelling and sound, but instead mean something entirely different.

Amigos falsos:
estar constipado= to have a cold, not to be constipated
estar embarazada=to be pregnant, not to be embarrassed

There are a ton of them.

Last edited by Maribel; Apr 17th, 2024 at 09:55 AM.
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 11:31 AM
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I meant "words".

More "false friends"

"asistir" means to attend, not to assist
"carpeta" is a folder, not a carpet
"éxito" is success, not an exit
"preservativo" is a condom, not a preservative
"actualmente" means nowadays, not actually
"sano" means healthy, not sane

My students got a hoot out of these, plus many, many more.
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 11:39 AM
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This is such a fun and fascinating read! It would make a great book. Thanks so much Ekscrunchy, Maribel and everyone else who's contributed.
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 12:58 PM
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Originally Posted by Maribel
I meant "words".

More "false friends"

"asistir" means to attend, not to assist
"carpeta" is a folder, not a carpet
"éxito" is success, not an exit
"preservativo" is a condom, not a preservative
"actualmente" means nowadays, not actually
"sano" means healthy, not sane

My students got a hoot out of these, plus many, many more.
One that I avoid using is “en absoluto”, easily confused with our use of “absolutely” ( implying “ yes”).
”En absoluto" usually carries a negative meaning, as if we had said "absolutely not".”

Last edited by danon; Apr 17th, 2024 at 01:02 PM.
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Old Apr 17th, 2024, 01:14 PM
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Originally Posted by danon
One that I avoid using is “en absoluto”, easily confused with our use of “absolutely” ( implying “ yes”).
”En absoluto" usually carries a negative meaning, as if we had said "absolutely not".”

This is fabulous!

I had Sr. Nardo, from Cuba, but I wish I had had Professora Maribel!
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Old Apr 18th, 2024, 02:04 AM
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danon,
That's a very good one!

eks,
By any chance was your jr. high school Spanish textbook El Camino Real? I still have mine!

More "false friends"--
"Sensible" is sensitive, not sensible (sensato)
"Soportar" is to put up with/to endure, not to support (apoyar)
"Actualmente" is nowadays, not actually (en realidad/de hecho)
"Molestar" is to bother, not to molest (acosar)
"Realizar" is to carry out/to accomplish, not to realize (darse cuenta)
“Pretender” is to intend to, not to pretend (fingir)
“Jubilación” is retirement, not jubilation (alegría)
“Sano” is healthy, not sane (cuerdo)

There, lesson finished.

Now for a bit of Hola gossip: Richard Gere and Spanish wife, Alejandra Silva, are moving to Madrid. Not to my ‘hood, but instead to La Moraleja, the urbanización of the rich & famous. 800 square meter home with 2,000 meters of gardens.

On another note, next year on the Costa de la Luz (if later in season), you may want to drive to Conil to see this lovely, whitewashed town, not as steeply hilly as Vejer. I went in early March when it was dead as a doornail, but after Holy Week, which next year may coincide with the very beginning of the almadraba season, the chiringuitos (beach bars) open up and it becomes quite lively, like Zahara. There is a huge hotel investment going on there, so it’s best to see it while it remains a charming, small beach community of 20,000. Fontanilla beach there is quite pretty.

The H10 chain is investing 112 million to develop 3 hotels there by 2026 (400 rooms!), and this summer Fuerte Hotels will open its 5-star Daia Slow Beach Hotel with 248 rooms on the Atlantic. I just hope that all this development doesn’t alter the town for the worse or spoil it completely.

Speaking of Retinto cows on the beach, here's the photo of the cow that commandeered a bather's blanket, sitting under the beach umbrella.

A Retinto cow sunbathing on Bolonia beach.
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Old Apr 18th, 2024, 08:15 AM
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Mari,
Que vaco! (did I say it right?) Loving the above language discussion.
About a dozen years ago, we saw a gent enter a nice residential building in Paris. It was dusk so our view was hampered. A bit starstruck, I said to my wife, "Lookit! Its Richard Gere."
I had assumed that I'd kept my voice down to a discrete level, but after turning his key he immediately turned to smile a warm smile at me, before slipping inside.
Felt like a rube, a fanboy.

Btw, Eks & Mari & Danon,
I am probably going to reserve our Pyrenees bases for the fall later today. Our original Ainsa choice turned out to be too far from groceries and services, all of which would've meant a loooooong 1km uphill slog on foot. Pity, it was a gorgeous restored farmhouse.
So I'm looking at choosing tween a pair of rentals located right in the main square. We um, 'pretender' add a few nights afterwards at that nearby parador. They claim to offer some tours but wouldn't elaborate in their email response.
*If you folks might know of any particularly nice rentals in Barca's Barrio Gotic Old Town, I'm all ears.

I am done. the vaco who would not vamoose
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