Live...from spain!!! Cordoba, costa de da luz (vejer de la frontera area, madrid
Mar 4th, 2024, 01:18 PM
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Maribel: Hasta las andares?? Que?
It's now 11pm and I've just returned from the SOUL OF CORDOBA Mezquita by Night Tour. This is bookable in advance (discount for seniors) and I think it must be one of the essentials of a visit to this city. I was brought almost to the point of tears several times during my visit (and none of those was when I tried to, against rules, snap an iPhone pic and was immediately spotted by our lovely guide. Next to Al Alhambra, the Mezquita must be THE sight off Andalucia and among the foremost in Spain. Its history, the artistic detail rendered in so many mediums, that famous forest of red and white-stripe columns, the vastness of it all---and those domes, and the roofs. So much artistic glory in so many mediums, by so many (unheralded) artisans, all to the glory of the various Dioses of the time. I can't think of a more interesting and artistically glory-filled hour within Andalucia than the nighttime tour of the Mezquita.
You can book online, as I did. Do this in advance of your arrival in tourist season.
There were, at the most, 50 people on the tour, and we were given headset guides to enhance the spoken words of our lovely guide. (Glory to her; when I asked for the English audio guide included with the tour ticket) she questioned if my English was good enough to receive the audio guide in that language!! A comment that I took as a personal compliment; I appear to be viewed as a Mexican in some places in Spain)
The tour ended at 10pm and the walk through the beautifully lit streets, past thee Plaza de las Tendillas, was a joy; I rarely got lost!!! People were out and about in sidewalk cafes, and walking but there were no crowds. There was not one whiff of strangeness, or danger, for this female wandering alone aft4r 10pm on a weeknight! The buildings are illuminated so beautifully that getting lost would have been a a joy (sure to happen in coming days!). My hotel is close to El Pisto, the "house of Manolete," where I have been able to get a table booked for lunch tomorrow at 2pm.
A new surprise is that two friends from the North Fork are joining me for dinner tomorrow night, at TABERNA DEL ALMODOVAR at their opening hour of 8:30pm. (many restaurant in Cordoba do not open for dinner (cena). until 9pm; again I would urge travelers heading this way to take th main meal of th day at lunchtime.
So now that I did pretty well with the initial packing, I'm now laden with my purchases this morning from Zara to replace those "missing in action." As it turns out, its gotten MUCH warmer today and I barely needed the light rain jacket that was in the "missing" suitcase, and even less, the heavy padded-body-armor-type jacket with heavy elastic arms that I bought this morning at Zara, before my suitcase arrived! So if I made even short strides in the packing effort, those have been abolished by the blazer, jacket, (and two long-sleeved blouses) I bought at Zara this morning in case my suitcase had been lost in the clouds for all eternity.
It's all great and I am in HEAVEN to be in Cordoba, in a lovely room of a cozy and handsome hotel. I've seen few English-speaking tourists and, of those, no Americans so far.
The hotel staff are warming up to me, in fact I barely got to the Mezquita tour on time when my request for waking directions turned into a chat on the details of my lunch today and, when other staff weighed In, the various (dissenting) opinions on the best way to prepare manitas de cerdo!!
Rabo de Toro has got to be the next "first-time try" on my list and I have a feeling that this dish will be a smash, judging from the plates whisked to nearby tables at SAN LORENZO this afternoon!!!! And why about Salmorejo?? And Mazamorra?? Days ahead promise to bring more edible, and visual, excitement in this beautiful city.
It's now 11pm and I've just returned from the SOUL OF CORDOBA Mezquita by Night Tour. This is bookable in advance (discount for seniors) and I think it must be one of the essentials of a visit to this city. I was brought almost to the point of tears several times during my visit (and none of those was when I tried to, against rules, snap an iPhone pic and was immediately spotted by our lovely guide. Next to Al Alhambra, the Mezquita must be THE sight off Andalucia and among the foremost in Spain. Its history, the artistic detail rendered in so many mediums, that famous forest of red and white-stripe columns, the vastness of it all---and those domes, and the roofs. So much artistic glory in so many mediums, by so many (unheralded) artisans, all to the glory of the various Dioses of the time. I can't think of a more interesting and artistically glory-filled hour within Andalucia than the nighttime tour of the Mezquita.
You can book online, as I did. Do this in advance of your arrival in tourist season.
There were, at the most, 50 people on the tour, and we were given headset guides to enhance the spoken words of our lovely guide. (Glory to her; when I asked for the English audio guide included with the tour ticket) she questioned if my English was good enough to receive the audio guide in that language!! A comment that I took as a personal compliment; I appear to be viewed as a Mexican in some places in Spain)
The tour ended at 10pm and the walk through the beautifully lit streets, past thee Plaza de las Tendillas, was a joy; I rarely got lost!!! People were out and about in sidewalk cafes, and walking but there were no crowds. There was not one whiff of strangeness, or danger, for this female wandering alone aft4r 10pm on a weeknight! The buildings are illuminated so beautifully that getting lost would have been a a joy (sure to happen in coming days!). My hotel is close to El Pisto, the "house of Manolete," where I have been able to get a table booked for lunch tomorrow at 2pm.
A new surprise is that two friends from the North Fork are joining me for dinner tomorrow night, at TABERNA DEL ALMODOVAR at their opening hour of 8:30pm. (many restaurant in Cordoba do not open for dinner (cena). until 9pm; again I would urge travelers heading this way to take th main meal of th day at lunchtime.
So now that I did pretty well with the initial packing, I'm now laden with my purchases this morning from Zara to replace those "missing in action." As it turns out, its gotten MUCH warmer today and I barely needed the light rain jacket that was in the "missing" suitcase, and even less, the heavy padded-body-armor-type jacket with heavy elastic arms that I bought this morning at Zara, before my suitcase arrived! So if I made even short strides in the packing effort, those have been abolished by the blazer, jacket, (and two long-sleeved blouses) I bought at Zara this morning in case my suitcase had been lost in the clouds for all eternity.
It's all great and I am in HEAVEN to be in Cordoba, in a lovely room of a cozy and handsome hotel. I've seen few English-speaking tourists and, of those, no Americans so far.
The hotel staff are warming up to me, in fact I barely got to the Mezquita tour on time when my request for waking directions turned into a chat on the details of my lunch today and, when other staff weighed In, the various (dissenting) opinions on the best way to prepare manitas de cerdo!!
Rabo de Toro has got to be the next "first-time try" on my list and I have a feeling that this dish will be a smash, judging from the plates whisked to nearby tables at SAN LORENZO this afternoon!!!! And why about Salmorejo?? And Mazamorra?? Days ahead promise to bring more edible, and visual, excitement in this beautiful city.
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Mar 4th, 2024 at 01:34 PM.
Mar 4th, 2024, 10:05 PM
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eks,
"El cerdo, hasta los andares" refers to how in Spain every part of the pig is eaten, including the hooves the pig uses for walking....no waste! Like at El Campero, every part of the blue fin tuna is eaten....no waste!
Rabo de toro is delicious. We have it often.
So happy you enjoyed the "Soul of Córdoba"!
It's supposed to reach a high of 16C today in Córdoba at 1 pm. Looking forward to your meal report. We're going there for lunch as well upon our arrival, so eager to know what dish you enjoyed the most.
"El cerdo, hasta los andares" refers to how in Spain every part of the pig is eaten, including the hooves the pig uses for walking....no waste! Like at El Campero, every part of the blue fin tuna is eaten....no waste!
Rabo de toro is delicious. We have it often.
So happy you enjoyed the "Soul of Córdoba"!
It's supposed to reach a high of 16C today in Córdoba at 1 pm. Looking forward to your meal report. We're going there for lunch as well upon our arrival, so eager to know what dish you enjoyed the most.
Last edited by Maribel; Mar 4th, 2024 at 10:15 PM.
Mar 5th, 2024, 01:25 AM
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"the ratio of meat to fat was very small"
Sounds like pig's feet to me! And you didn't have to scrape out the little bits of meat between the toes, though that's the best part. Deboned, not so much fun.
Sounds like pig's feet to me! And you didn't have to scrape out the little bits of meat between the toes, though that's the best part. Deboned, not so much fun.
Mar 5th, 2024, 04:52 AM
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Maribel I have seen windows stacked with torrijas and you know right now I am finishing lunch at the SUPREMELY ATMOSPHERIC CASA EL PISTO.
NO obvious tourists. Like a set for an old film set in this City. ESSENTIAL!! Description later!!
NO obvious tourists. Like a set for an old film set in this City. ESSENTIAL!! Description later!!
Mar 5th, 2024, 06:03 AM
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Think of your new clothes as a practical souvenir of Spain! So happy that you did get your suitcase.
I wonder when the Soul of Cordoba show started? We were in Cordoba in 2017, and we did not see this. I know that if I knew about it we would have purchased tickets. Sounds wonderful!
I wonder when the Soul of Cordoba show started? We were in Cordoba in 2017, and we did not see this. I know that if I knew about it we would have purchased tickets. Sounds wonderful!
Mar 5th, 2024, 06:34 AM
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It is, we're seeing it again in a few weeks. For anyone else interested, this evening tour is not given every day of the week, but when it does take place, there are usually 2 sessions per evening, the first at 9 pm and second at 10:30. And tickets do sell out. The calendar for ticket purchases is only up 2 months in advance. Senior tickets cost 14, general tickets cost 20.
https://tickets.mezquita-catedraldec...oul-of-cordoba
https://tickets.mezquita-catedraldec...oul-of-cordoba
Mar 5th, 2024, 07:28 AM
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Tuesday 4 March 5pm:
Back at hotel Hospes after a VERY lazy morning/early afternoon.
I'd rate the breakfast here as a 4.5 out of 5. Very nice buffet in a lovely courtyard, including, as I mentioned, an excellent savory orange salad with olive oil, salt and (I think) cinnamon; will confirm that tomorrow. They also have the option for egg dishes, which none of my fellow diners appeared to be aware of. So I asked for the "Hot dish" menu (not their words) and chose eggs scrambled with Manchego with a side of Jamon de los Pedroches.
This was but my first taste of the ham local to the VALLEY OF PEDROCHES in the northern area of the region of Cordoba. I was eager to sample this jamon but, to my palate, its good but does not compare in texture or taste to the finest of the Jamones Ibericos with which I've been spoiled on numerous stays in Spain. The silky and shiny Jamon Iberico (I've sampled from various producers) ranks along the top tier of the world's culinary ladder. Jamon de los Pedroches, DOP, takes its name from the valley in the northern part of the Cordoban region that is famed for its jamon, including those produced from 100% Iberico pigs with a100% acorn diet and thus bears the vaunted distinction cien-por-ciento jamon de bellota, but I imagine there are various grades of this Pedroches ham, just as their are infinite types of Jamon Iberico, varying by the pigs diet and by the producer, and if they eat a diet of 100% across or are merely finished at the end with an acorn diet......and perhaps what the hotel serves in the breakfast buffet is not the finest in its class (???)
I will have to spend the next few days tasting some hams from Pedroches and learning more about production in this area.
So to recap, and I hope Maribel will make corrections, hams from the certified Iberian pig produce Jamones Iberico, mainly from Salamanca, Extremadura, and from Huelva, and from a few other regions including Cordoba, where the hams bear the distinction Los Pedroches, after the area in which the pigs are raised. I will try to educate myself as much as I have time for in the next few days, by visiting a few shops offering various jamones!! A pleasant topic for research!!
Today at 2pm I was finally able to snag a small table, thanks to my hotel, at the legendary CASA DE SAN MIGUEL, known locally as EL PISTO, after a vegetable stew similar to ratatouille, which has its roots in the Cordoban kitchen. EL PISTO is THE quintessential Coroban tavern, composed of several rooms embellished with tiles and photographs, many depicting MANOLETE, who grew up in a house nearby.
Must take break to get to PALaCIO DE VIANA before it closes for the day!!
Back at hotel Hospes after a VERY lazy morning/early afternoon.
I'd rate the breakfast here as a 4.5 out of 5. Very nice buffet in a lovely courtyard, including, as I mentioned, an excellent savory orange salad with olive oil, salt and (I think) cinnamon; will confirm that tomorrow. They also have the option for egg dishes, which none of my fellow diners appeared to be aware of. So I asked for the "Hot dish" menu (not their words) and chose eggs scrambled with Manchego with a side of Jamon de los Pedroches.
This was but my first taste of the ham local to the VALLEY OF PEDROCHES in the northern area of the region of Cordoba. I was eager to sample this jamon but, to my palate, its good but does not compare in texture or taste to the finest of the Jamones Ibericos with which I've been spoiled on numerous stays in Spain. The silky and shiny Jamon Iberico (I've sampled from various producers) ranks along the top tier of the world's culinary ladder. Jamon de los Pedroches, DOP, takes its name from the valley in the northern part of the Cordoban region that is famed for its jamon, including those produced from 100% Iberico pigs with a100% acorn diet and thus bears the vaunted distinction cien-por-ciento jamon de bellota, but I imagine there are various grades of this Pedroches ham, just as their are infinite types of Jamon Iberico, varying by the pigs diet and by the producer, and if they eat a diet of 100% across or are merely finished at the end with an acorn diet......and perhaps what the hotel serves in the breakfast buffet is not the finest in its class (???)
I will have to spend the next few days tasting some hams from Pedroches and learning more about production in this area.
So to recap, and I hope Maribel will make corrections, hams from the certified Iberian pig produce Jamones Iberico, mainly from Salamanca, Extremadura, and from Huelva, and from a few other regions including Cordoba, where the hams bear the distinction Los Pedroches, after the area in which the pigs are raised. I will try to educate myself as much as I have time for in the next few days, by visiting a few shops offering various jamones!! A pleasant topic for research!!
Today at 2pm I was finally able to snag a small table, thanks to my hotel, at the legendary CASA DE SAN MIGUEL, known locally as EL PISTO, after a vegetable stew similar to ratatouille, which has its roots in the Cordoban kitchen. EL PISTO is THE quintessential Coroban tavern, composed of several rooms embellished with tiles and photographs, many depicting MANOLETE, who grew up in a house nearby.
Must take break to get to PALaCIO DE VIANA before it closes for the day!!
Mar 5th, 2024, 07:37 AM
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Glad you were able to sample the jamón de Pedroches, DOP. You got it right. Most of the bars will probably serve the Pedroches DOP, since it´s their local pride and joy. In Seattle I used to buy it at my supermarket, label COVAP. It´s almost as expensive as those from Salamanca (Guijuelo) and Huelva (Jabugo).
I love pisto, the Spanish version of ratatouille. Hope you enjoy the Palacio de Viana!
I love pisto, the Spanish version of ratatouille. Hope you enjoy the Palacio de Viana!
Mar 5th, 2024, 10:28 AM
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Tuesday after noon: EL PISTO is marvelous. I'd say "essential!" My hotel was, finalllyl able to get me a small table in the front room, just behind the bar area where, indeed some folks were perching on old wine barrels. (Maribel the restaurant is NOT closed this Thursday, so the info provided by my hotel was incorrect---I guess the take-away from this is to try to phone oneself if a hotel gives you an answer the seems suspect)
I will take this up with them, maybe, later in my stay.
EL PISTO is linked in the local mind with the Cordoban torero, MANOLETE, he who sits in the realm of the Pantheon de Dioses within the sport of bullfighting.Manolete grew up in a nearby house and spent time as a youth, and later on, inside El Pisto. Evidence of the status in which he continues to be held are a blue and white tiled portrait on the restaurant facade, and many photos and news clippings from the days of his reign, cut short when he was thirty in the ring of Linares in 1947 at age 30.
When I was growing up, El Cordobes (Manual Benitez) was king, but I've yet to see any tributes to him in my wanderings which, to be fair, have so far lasted only 2 days in total! Of course he was a native not of the city but of the region of Cordoba and still lives, I believe.(I did have my own replica poster of that young and handsome torero hanging in pride of place in my childhood bedroom!
I enjoyed the atmosphere at EL PISTO very, very much!! Part of this was that I got into conversation with a local couple seated next to me who were very interested in this gringa trying out their favorite foods!
I began with MARZAMORRA, a take on gazpacho made with almonds with no tomatoes to be found. The cream cold soup was studded with sultanas and other dried fruits. It was tasty but so much like yogurt that I wondered if this was the classic version or the restaurants' take on a classic. Very tasty but I could barely finish a third of it; I took the rest home after the waiter suggested doing so, and it will be a great late-night snack or even a supplement to the already lavish hotel breakfast.
My second course was again, in the desire to sample the classic dishes of the region and, in this case, of most of Spain: Rabo de Toro.
Unlike the version I had seen (but not ordered) yesterday at
CUCHARA DE SAN LORENZO, which was almost black with char, the dish served to me at El Pisto was a light brown in color. served over a wonderful, slightly browned round of delicious potatoes. I ordered a half-ration and was very glad that EL PISTO offered that option. I devoured the dish, but unless I received news of a restaurant whose Rabo de Toro is not to be missed, I think I will skip a second experiment with this dish (I still cannot forget the almost-black version that passed me at CUCHARA DE SAN LORENZO, and the description given to me by the taxi driver who transported me from Barajas to Atocha.
The moral here is that you really need to try place more than once, and get a handle on which dishes are prepared best at which restaurants!!! An exciting research project.....anyone want to hire me??
I'll pause now, leaving my visit to the PATIOS of EL PALACIO DE VIANA, and my dinner at TAVERNA DEL ALMODOVAR, where I will meet two friends from home who are crossing paths with me in Cordoba at the last minute. ALMODOVAR is a 15 minute walk from the HOSPES, according to the reception people, but I will be toting my Google maps to cover myself.......I have to meet them in one-half an hour: 9pm,!!!
I will take this up with them, maybe, later in my stay.
EL PISTO is linked in the local mind with the Cordoban torero, MANOLETE, he who sits in the realm of the Pantheon de Dioses within the sport of bullfighting.Manolete grew up in a nearby house and spent time as a youth, and later on, inside El Pisto. Evidence of the status in which he continues to be held are a blue and white tiled portrait on the restaurant facade, and many photos and news clippings from the days of his reign, cut short when he was thirty in the ring of Linares in 1947 at age 30.
When I was growing up, El Cordobes (Manual Benitez) was king, but I've yet to see any tributes to him in my wanderings which, to be fair, have so far lasted only 2 days in total! Of course he was a native not of the city but of the region of Cordoba and still lives, I believe.(I did have my own replica poster of that young and handsome torero hanging in pride of place in my childhood bedroom!
I enjoyed the atmosphere at EL PISTO very, very much!! Part of this was that I got into conversation with a local couple seated next to me who were very interested in this gringa trying out their favorite foods!
I began with MARZAMORRA, a take on gazpacho made with almonds with no tomatoes to be found. The cream cold soup was studded with sultanas and other dried fruits. It was tasty but so much like yogurt that I wondered if this was the classic version or the restaurants' take on a classic. Very tasty but I could barely finish a third of it; I took the rest home after the waiter suggested doing so, and it will be a great late-night snack or even a supplement to the already lavish hotel breakfast.
My second course was again, in the desire to sample the classic dishes of the region and, in this case, of most of Spain: Rabo de Toro.
Unlike the version I had seen (but not ordered) yesterday at
CUCHARA DE SAN LORENZO, which was almost black with char, the dish served to me at El Pisto was a light brown in color. served over a wonderful, slightly browned round of delicious potatoes. I ordered a half-ration and was very glad that EL PISTO offered that option. I devoured the dish, but unless I received news of a restaurant whose Rabo de Toro is not to be missed, I think I will skip a second experiment with this dish (I still cannot forget the almost-black version that passed me at CUCHARA DE SAN LORENZO, and the description given to me by the taxi driver who transported me from Barajas to Atocha.
The moral here is that you really need to try place more than once, and get a handle on which dishes are prepared best at which restaurants!!! An exciting research project.....anyone want to hire me??
I'll pause now, leaving my visit to the PATIOS of EL PALACIO DE VIANA, and my dinner at TAVERNA DEL ALMODOVAR, where I will meet two friends from home who are crossing paths with me in Cordoba at the last minute. ALMODOVAR is a 15 minute walk from the HOSPES, according to the reception people, but I will be toting my Google maps to cover myself.......I have to meet them in one-half an hour: 9pm,!!!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Mar 5th, 2024 at 10:33 AM.
Mar 5th, 2024, 11:23 AM
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The house of Manolete is now a gourmet restaurant, La Casa de Manolete Bistró. I would have recommended it to you but it's tasting menu only and your restaurant card was already quite full!
Way, way back in the day....yes, when I was also growing up, El Cordobés was king. I saw El Cordobés several times (as a teen I was a fan) when I was studying in Salamanca and went to see him and El Viti and Paco Camino in Valladolid and elsewhere, and even stayed in the late 80s or early 90s at his Córdoba hotel, Hotel El Cordobés, which I assume no longer exists. The father and his son (out of wedlock), also a matador, Manuel Dìaz González, have now happily reconciled (a bit of gossip). There are certainly tributes to El Cordobés in the Museo Taurino in Córdoba, which is not often visited. My husband has an autographed photo from the 70s.
Way, way back in the day....yes, when I was also growing up, El Cordobés was king. I saw El Cordobés several times (as a teen I was a fan) when I was studying in Salamanca and went to see him and El Viti and Paco Camino in Valladolid and elsewhere, and even stayed in the late 80s or early 90s at his Córdoba hotel, Hotel El Cordobés, which I assume no longer exists. The father and his son (out of wedlock), also a matador, Manuel Dìaz González, have now happily reconciled (a bit of gossip). There are certainly tributes to El Cordobés in the Museo Taurino in Córdoba, which is not often visited. My husband has an autographed photo from the 70s.
Last edited by Maribel; Mar 5th, 2024 at 11:32 AM.
Mar 6th, 2024, 12:07 AM
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I'm hoping to visit the Museo del Taurino!!
Just a small note:. I spotted a caracol (snail) stand! Apparently these are very popular in Cordoba in Springtime, so I am happy that there is at least one in action right now!!
It's at a corner of the Plaza Juan Bernier, where are there two beautiful bronze female statues depicting EL POZO DE LOS FLORES (the well of the flowers). Apparently there are several bronzes like this all over the city, dedicated to the "caretakers of the Patios." I will be on the alert today when I delve into the Barrio de la Juderia.
Just a small note:. I spotted a caracol (snail) stand! Apparently these are very popular in Cordoba in Springtime, so I am happy that there is at least one in action right now!!
It's at a corner of the Plaza Juan Bernier, where are there two beautiful bronze female statues depicting EL POZO DE LOS FLORES (the well of the flowers). Apparently there are several bronzes like this all over the city, dedicated to the "caretakers of the Patios." I will be on the alert today when I delve into the Barrio de la Juderia.
