Live...from spain!!! Cordoba, costa de da luz (vejer de la frontera area, madrid
Apr 9th, 2024, 09:56 AM
#321
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Barrio de Almagro is a quite quiet and elegant neighborhood. Maribel is the one who can give the best and most updated tips. It occurs to me:
* Coque, a top notch 3 Michelin starred restaurant https://www.restaurantecoque.com/en/
* Coquetto, a more casual version of the Coque's chef https://coquettobar.com/
* Bar Tomate, fashionable a few years ago, is still running quite strong https://grupotragaluz.com/en/restaurants/bar-tomate/
Going North ward:
* Las Tortillas de Gabino https://www.lastortillasdegabino.com/
* Lúa, a former Michelin-starred restaurant but still an excellent option https://www.restaurantelua.com/
* Coque, a top notch 3 Michelin starred restaurant https://www.restaurantecoque.com/en/
* Coquetto, a more casual version of the Coque's chef https://coquettobar.com/
* Bar Tomate, fashionable a few years ago, is still running quite strong https://grupotragaluz.com/en/restaurants/bar-tomate/
Going North ward:
* Las Tortillas de Gabino https://www.lastortillasdegabino.com/
* Lúa, a former Michelin-starred restaurant but still an excellent option https://www.restaurantelua.com/
Apr 9th, 2024, 10:55 AM
#323
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We ate in LUA years ago, just after they opened, and it was one of the best meals I'd had in Spain, ever. Maybe I ought to go again, but since I was there they (I think) received and lost Michelin stars, and also made changes in the interior layout.....let's ask Maribel what she thinks!!
Oh, Maribel, I could also spend every night of my life in hotels! Did I mention that there are a few guests at the Orfila who visit every year for a month-6 weeks at a time?? I asked if one gets a discount for those long stays and (although it was not given clearly and freely) the answer was "yes."
And here I've been talking about Tetuan, huge spelling mistake!
Remember, my sister loved the Villa Magna. Rosewood is a good name in hotels, I think.
Thanks, Revulgo..I'm not crazy about super fancy places that's why I never tried Coque, which charges 340euro for a tasting menu.... My problem is that I have too few nights in the city every year and so many places I want to try!! And since the hotel offers tremendous (both in size and in quality), I can't eat both lunch and dinner..... You can tell a little about the style of places I like from the ones I chose last month....but honestly, your city is so rich in fantastic places to eat, it's really hard to eliminate...
I'm not sure how to describe the type of places I tend to like." I'd say I tend to like small places but that's not really true, as two of my favorites in the south are La Castilleria and Antonio and I would call neither one "small." Maybe "product driven" is a good term, I'm not sure..., but an example of a Madrid place I like a lot is TASQUITA DE ENFRENTE.
I will write about that soon, but I will say here that it is definitely not a place I would recommend to anyone without knowing their taste in food really well. Also I'm not sure it's a place for most foreigners who are tourists (Yeah, I'm one of those!). I'lll go into that later.....
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 9th, 2024 at 11:20 AM.
Apr 9th, 2024, 12:02 PM
#324
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Hi eks,
I do know well the places the Revulgo mentions.
Coque is hugely expensive, more than NOOR, and since your breakfasts at the Orfila are catered by the Sandoval brothers of Coque and Coquetto, well, why bother? If you have a hankering for their famous cochinillo, I'm sure the desk staff can provided it for you without going to Coque or Coquetto. They can probably deliver it to your room!
Lua, although they lost their Michelin star, is still a great option, as Revulgo says. Yes they changed the look, and the bar area is now gone, but no one can explain why they lost their Michelin star. I would go back without hesitation.
I dislike Bar Tomate. Why? The service is extremely indifferent, as in "you bother us?", the portions small, it's a fashion place for the Telva set that doesn't eat, and it's like I'm doing them a huge favor dining there. (ok, Maribel, tell us how you really feel!
). Its only merit---the pizzas are relatively inexpensive. It sits around the corner from our hotel, and I've gone in many, many times but every single time I regret the experience. It's fine for a coffee or an "after work", but that's about it. I have dined there solo, and you can do so much better elsewhere.
On the other hand..., I love, love Las Tortillas de Gabino, their tortilla served Betanzos style (runny eggs), their breaded veal scallop "Armando", and everything else they serve, friendly service, lovely room, super classy and great cheesecake for dessert. We had a lovely lunch there recently. I should put the review on HO. The Redruello family are great, great restauranteurs. We also love their Nordic style Fismuler, their new outpost on top of the Club Financiero de Génova (our friend is the maitre there), their very classic La Ancha behind Las Cortes, and their new breakfast-brunch-bakery place in the Hotel Thompson, the Omar. Every restaurant they open is a huge success. They have the secret key.
About visiting the same hotel every year...I truly get that. When my parents and I went to The Cloisters in Sea Island, Georgia, every Christmas to New Years (before Mom died), there were southern families, regulars, who spent 6 weeks there each "season" and came with their steamer trunks.
I also love, love what the Rosewood has done to the Villamagna. We went for Christmas and it's sooooo inviting, friendly (the barmen are great), cozy, with its separate comfy rooms for each dining venue and fireplaces, ice rink and churros and chocolate stand during the Christmas holidays and great family Christmas program. The Rosewood has given it a new life and made the interior spaces far warmer and inviting, even for those not staying there, as we weren't. Of the 5-stars, it's now my fave.
I'll soon have a post about Madrid concierges...stay tuned.
I do know well the places the Revulgo mentions.
Coque is hugely expensive, more than NOOR, and since your breakfasts at the Orfila are catered by the Sandoval brothers of Coque and Coquetto, well, why bother? If you have a hankering for their famous cochinillo, I'm sure the desk staff can provided it for you without going to Coque or Coquetto. They can probably deliver it to your room!
Lua, although they lost their Michelin star, is still a great option, as Revulgo says. Yes they changed the look, and the bar area is now gone, but no one can explain why they lost their Michelin star. I would go back without hesitation.
I dislike Bar Tomate. Why? The service is extremely indifferent, as in "you bother us?", the portions small, it's a fashion place for the Telva set that doesn't eat, and it's like I'm doing them a huge favor dining there. (ok, Maribel, tell us how you really feel!
). Its only merit---the pizzas are relatively inexpensive. It sits around the corner from our hotel, and I've gone in many, many times but every single time I regret the experience. It's fine for a coffee or an "after work", but that's about it. I have dined there solo, and you can do so much better elsewhere.On the other hand..., I love, love Las Tortillas de Gabino, their tortilla served Betanzos style (runny eggs), their breaded veal scallop "Armando", and everything else they serve, friendly service, lovely room, super classy and great cheesecake for dessert. We had a lovely lunch there recently. I should put the review on HO. The Redruello family are great, great restauranteurs. We also love their Nordic style Fismuler, their new outpost on top of the Club Financiero de Génova (our friend is the maitre there), their very classic La Ancha behind Las Cortes, and their new breakfast-brunch-bakery place in the Hotel Thompson, the Omar. Every restaurant they open is a huge success. They have the secret key.
About visiting the same hotel every year...I truly get that. When my parents and I went to The Cloisters in Sea Island, Georgia, every Christmas to New Years (before Mom died), there were southern families, regulars, who spent 6 weeks there each "season" and came with their steamer trunks.
I also love, love what the Rosewood has done to the Villamagna. We went for Christmas and it's sooooo inviting, friendly (the barmen are great), cozy, with its separate comfy rooms for each dining venue and fireplaces, ice rink and churros and chocolate stand during the Christmas holidays and great family Christmas program. The Rosewood has given it a new life and made the interior spaces far warmer and inviting, even for those not staying there, as we weren't. Of the 5-stars, it's now my fave.
I'll soon have a post about Madrid concierges...stay tuned.
Apr 9th, 2024, 12:03 PM
#325
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Moving along here with Madrid; I realized I made a mistake: LA CATAPA was not my first dinner in Madrid, but my second, but I'll continue with the comments since it makes little difference in what order I write the restaurants:
LA CATAPA
This is a very small, chef-driven bar/restaurant. I had a table booked for dinner but I noticed others came in (early) to sit at the bar and have a few tapas. But after a half an hour, by 8:30, Miguel Angel was turning everyone away unless they had reserved.
The first place set before me, the welcome dish was, hands down, THE best sausage I have ever eaten. Close your eyes GREAT!! It was chistorra, the fresh, scarlet colored sausage from Navarra and the Basque Country, where it may be spelled "txistorra." I was served three small lengths and I was swooning from the first bite!!! The reddish color--I wonder if it comes from pimenton, or maybe from Piment d'Espelette; there was a little spice there.....it's just the greatest sausage I've put in my mouth (did I say that already??). Next time I must order a racion of this; the little links were served with house-made chips. Honestly, I told Miguel Angel how bowled over I was and I imagine he thought that I must come from a food desert if I was wowed by a simple sausage!!
Next arrived a half order of JAMON DE MAR, salazon of tuna that had been salted and cured; hence the name, ham of the sea. (I saw this later in el Corte Ingles Club de Gourmets, with the long piece laid out on a slicer similar to those used for jamon Iberico.). It was very expensive in the store. Very thin slices of fatty tuna were fanned out on a plate; it's very pretty to look at but I could not finish even the half order. Maybe there is something about salazones that I am not crazy about, because a salon of ijar that I had last year at EL CAMPERO (and was warned not to order by the waiter, who told me it would be too strong for me) was the dish I've liked least in two long visits to "Cadizfornia!!" (The Bretzel was the second dish that I was not wowed by so I guess that's pretty amazing, not being overjoyed by only two dishes in about 5 weeks total in that southern area.) The jamon de mar was interesting but after a few slices, I thought maybe I would have liked them better with buttered bread.
Next: Navajas, razor clams, a big favorite of mine. Not easy to find in New York (Casa Mono makes good ones) and when I see them I almost always order at least a few. On that night I ordered a media racion, six clams, and they were fantastic. These certainly made up for the tuna and then some...Exquisite.
The atmosphere of this place is great, cozy and intimate, great, attentive service and assistance with ordering from Miguel Angel (good friend of Maribel!!). it's like a quintessential, fairly upscale Madrid tapas bar/restaurant and if I lived around there, I'd go once a week.
My next full racion was "fuera de carta," outside the menu, which I suppose is similar to ordering a special in a US restaurant.
This was wonderful!! Described as a guiso by Miguel Angel it was, indeed, a stew of spring vegetables with artichcoke hearts and cardoons predominant and flavored with jamon Iberico. This reminded me a bit of the Roman vignarola which I've always loved and have even made at home with some success. I need to know how to make the sauce..
I passed on the dessert, which I would not do next time, because the complimentary chocolate truffles were out of this world fabulous, so I can imagine what riches the dessert menu holds!!
To finish, from the "chupitos" offered to close the meal, I chose a pacharán (Baynes) from Navarra, with cinnamon and coffee flavors and that, too, was marvelous..I meant to buy a bottle to take home but..long story..I had promised to bring duty-free alcohol for someone else so I thought I was not allowed to bring a second bottle....now that I think of it, though, of course I could have put a few bottles of pacharán in my checked luggage--the one bottle per person only applies to duty-free alcohol! Another item for next visit's shopping list!!
LA CATAPA, with txistorra and chips on my plate in foreground.
Chistorra: Too great not to post two photos!! Bite for bite...among the best dishes of the week!!
LA CATAPA carta (there are also off-menu items here, and in other restaurants; it's always good to inquire if they are not revealed to you). Also, please do not confuse the word "carta" with the word "menu" in Spain.
Plate of JAMON DE MAR..salazon of red (bluefin) tuna. 14.50 media racion
I devoured the 6 navajas (half order; 12.50) before I took the photo!! In background is the Jamon de Mar.
Bar at LA CATAPA.. taken from my window table. The little boy with his parents at the bar wanted to play games with me all through dinner!!
Spring "guiso" of artichoke hearts, cardoons, and bits of jamon Iberico .....superb!! I wish I knew what fat they used..it was so glossy....olive oil like in a pil oil sauce????
A single chocolate truffle left on the plate! With a chupito (little shot) of Baynes pacharán
LA CATAPA
This is a very small, chef-driven bar/restaurant. I had a table booked for dinner but I noticed others came in (early) to sit at the bar and have a few tapas. But after a half an hour, by 8:30, Miguel Angel was turning everyone away unless they had reserved.
The first place set before me, the welcome dish was, hands down, THE best sausage I have ever eaten. Close your eyes GREAT!! It was chistorra, the fresh, scarlet colored sausage from Navarra and the Basque Country, where it may be spelled "txistorra." I was served three small lengths and I was swooning from the first bite!!! The reddish color--I wonder if it comes from pimenton, or maybe from Piment d'Espelette; there was a little spice there.....it's just the greatest sausage I've put in my mouth (did I say that already??). Next time I must order a racion of this; the little links were served with house-made chips. Honestly, I told Miguel Angel how bowled over I was and I imagine he thought that I must come from a food desert if I was wowed by a simple sausage!!
Next arrived a half order of JAMON DE MAR, salazon of tuna that had been salted and cured; hence the name, ham of the sea. (I saw this later in el Corte Ingles Club de Gourmets, with the long piece laid out on a slicer similar to those used for jamon Iberico.). It was very expensive in the store. Very thin slices of fatty tuna were fanned out on a plate; it's very pretty to look at but I could not finish even the half order. Maybe there is something about salazones that I am not crazy about, because a salon of ijar that I had last year at EL CAMPERO (and was warned not to order by the waiter, who told me it would be too strong for me) was the dish I've liked least in two long visits to "Cadizfornia!!" (The Bretzel was the second dish that I was not wowed by so I guess that's pretty amazing, not being overjoyed by only two dishes in about 5 weeks total in that southern area.) The jamon de mar was interesting but after a few slices, I thought maybe I would have liked them better with buttered bread.
Next: Navajas, razor clams, a big favorite of mine. Not easy to find in New York (Casa Mono makes good ones) and when I see them I almost always order at least a few. On that night I ordered a media racion, six clams, and they were fantastic. These certainly made up for the tuna and then some...Exquisite.
The atmosphere of this place is great, cozy and intimate, great, attentive service and assistance with ordering from Miguel Angel (good friend of Maribel!!). it's like a quintessential, fairly upscale Madrid tapas bar/restaurant and if I lived around there, I'd go once a week.
My next full racion was "fuera de carta," outside the menu, which I suppose is similar to ordering a special in a US restaurant.
This was wonderful!! Described as a guiso by Miguel Angel it was, indeed, a stew of spring vegetables with artichcoke hearts and cardoons predominant and flavored with jamon Iberico. This reminded me a bit of the Roman vignarola which I've always loved and have even made at home with some success. I need to know how to make the sauce..
I passed on the dessert, which I would not do next time, because the complimentary chocolate truffles were out of this world fabulous, so I can imagine what riches the dessert menu holds!!
To finish, from the "chupitos" offered to close the meal, I chose a pacharán (Baynes) from Navarra, with cinnamon and coffee flavors and that, too, was marvelous..I meant to buy a bottle to take home but..long story..I had promised to bring duty-free alcohol for someone else so I thought I was not allowed to bring a second bottle....now that I think of it, though, of course I could have put a few bottles of pacharán in my checked luggage--the one bottle per person only applies to duty-free alcohol! Another item for next visit's shopping list!!
LA CATAPA, with txistorra and chips on my plate in foreground.
Chistorra: Too great not to post two photos!! Bite for bite...among the best dishes of the week!!
LA CATAPA carta (there are also off-menu items here, and in other restaurants; it's always good to inquire if they are not revealed to you). Also, please do not confuse the word "carta" with the word "menu" in Spain.
Plate of JAMON DE MAR..salazon of red (bluefin) tuna. 14.50 media racion
I devoured the 6 navajas (half order; 12.50) before I took the photo!! In background is the Jamon de Mar.
Bar at LA CATAPA.. taken from my window table. The little boy with his parents at the bar wanted to play games with me all through dinner!!
Spring "guiso" of artichoke hearts, cardoons, and bits of jamon Iberico .....superb!! I wish I knew what fat they used..it was so glossy....olive oil like in a pil oil sauce????
A single chocolate truffle left on the plate! With a chupito (little shot) of Baynes pacharán
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 9th, 2024 at 12:11 PM.
Apr 9th, 2024, 12:43 PM
#326
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Enjoyed your review of La Catapa!
I hope you told Miguel Angel that I had recommended it. He gave you my table. I love the navajas.
We're heading to Navarra (Pamplona) this weekend, and I plan to have my share of txistorra while my husband plans to have plenty of "menestra" (which is what that "guiso" you had is, a combo of artichokes & cardoons) and after our meals, as a digestif, a Navarran patxaran, We keep Baines patxaran at home.
La Catapa is one of few places in the Retiro where a complimentary digestive, such as patxaran, and chocolates are served post meal. I have to ask Miguel Angel who is his purveyor of trufas (those chocolates).
Looking forward to your next Madrid installment!
I hope you told Miguel Angel that I had recommended it. He gave you my table
. I love the navajas. We're heading to Navarra (Pamplona) this weekend, and I plan to have my share of txistorra while my husband plans to have plenty of "menestra" (which is what that "guiso" you had is, a combo of artichokes & cardoons) and after our meals, as a digestif, a Navarran patxaran, We keep Baines patxaran at home.
La Catapa is one of few places in the Retiro where a complimentary digestive, such as patxaran, and chocolates are served post meal. I have to ask Miguel Angel who is his purveyor of trufas (those chocolates).
Looking forward to your next Madrid installment!
Apr 9th, 2024, 01:56 PM
#327
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Enjoyed your review of La Catapa!
I hope you told Miguel Angel that I had recommended it. He gave you my table. I love the navajas.
We're heading to Navarra (Pamplona) this weekend, and I plan to have my share of txistorra while my husband plans to have plenty of "menestra" (which is what that "guiso" you had is, a combo of artichokes & cardoons) and after our meals, as a digestif, a Navarran patxaran, We keep Baines patxaran at home.
La Catapa is one of few places in the Retiro where a complimentary digestive, such as patxaran, and chocolates are served post meal. I have to ask Miguel Angel who is his purveyor of trufas (those chocolates).
Looking forward to your next Madrid installment!
I hope you told Miguel Angel that I had recommended it. He gave you my table
. I love the navajas.We're heading to Navarra (Pamplona) this weekend, and I plan to have my share of txistorra while my husband plans to have plenty of "menestra" (which is what that "guiso" you had is, a combo of artichokes & cardoons) and after our meals, as a digestif, a Navarran patxaran, We keep Baines patxaran at home.
La Catapa is one of few places in the Retiro where a complimentary digestive, such as patxaran, and chocolates are served post meal. I have to ask Miguel Angel who is his purveyor of trufas (those chocolates).
Looking forward to your next Madrid installment!
Yes, of course, Maribel!! You lucky thing...off to Pamplona this weekend....
Menestra..Miguel Angel might have used that word to describe the dish..
He is so lovely!!
Very much look forward to your thoughts on the hotel concierges..... do any of them wear that emblem on their jackets anymore??
I WANTED TO GO TO THE CORNELL HOTEL SCHOOL, TOO!!! Nixed by the parents....."oh, you will have to live so far away when you get a hotel position..it will be years and years away before you can choose where you want to work......oh, even Ithaca is so far away....etc etc". Never mind that my Mom went to summer school at Cornell and never stopped talking about those months, and singing that song about Cayuga's waters!!
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 9th, 2024 at 02:00 PM.
Apr 10th, 2024, 05:25 AM
#328
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ekscrunchy , If you need your fix of Baines Pacharan right away, Astor Wines in NYC has it in stock for $34.99 a bottle. That store has some of the best selection in NYC if not all of the US.
Can’t wait for your next Madrid segment. I’m also keeping up with your Galicia thread as I’m debating between Galicia or Valencia for early September and am having a hard time deciding.
Can’t wait for your next Madrid segment. I’m also keeping up with your Galicia thread as I’m debating between Galicia or Valencia for early September and am having a hard time deciding.
Apr 10th, 2024, 05:57 AM
#329
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ekscrunchy , If you need your fix of Baines Pacharan right away, Astor Wines in NYC has it in stock for $34.99 a bottle. That store has some of the best selection in NYC if not all of the US.
Can’t wait for your next Madrid segment. I’m also keeping up with your Galicia thread as I’m debating between Galicia or Valencia for early September and am having a hard time deciding.
Can’t wait for your next Madrid segment. I’m also keeping up with your Galicia thread as I’m debating between Galicia or Valencia for early September and am having a hard time deciding.
MDN: That's great! I can go there and buy some once I go home to NYC (2 weeks from now)
That's funny, because both places are high on my list, and my partner has now said we can take about one week near Thanksgiving, so I think we will go to Valencia and Cuenca.
Here's one thing to think about, or two: Do you drive in Spain? Cause you need a car for Galicia (unless you are ok with buses) But not for Valencia. And Valencia ice good almost all year round, I think, but September might bee perfect for Galicia...
Maribel: The Cloister?!? That was THE place in the south when you were there, or one of THE places in the US. I'm sure you know that they've changed it..built modern "beach club" rooms and I think they have condos now. We stayed only once, driving back from Florida and I still remember the name of the head guy out front near the valet station. Bruce. He knew our names after one day and remains one of the best hotel employees I've ever encountered to this day...
We used to to to the Pierre Marques in Acapulco when I was a kid, with a group of my parents friends. But after my mother and sister spent much of those winter vacations sick with stomach problems (so annoying for me!). we ended up switching to EL EMBAJADOR in Santo Domingo to be with my parents' group of Dominican friend, who lived down there. It was at EL EMBAJADOR that ekscrunchy passed two milestones: 1. First taste of platanos fritos 2. First casino win= $..25. I was always so enthralled when you would call to the reception or to room service and the man (always a man) would answer "A sus ordenes." Do employees ever answer using that term today?
I might put LUA on the list for next year....I think I wrote a report on that trip..it was the one where we rented an apartment on the east side of Retiro and then went to Sevilla and rented the fantastic apartment from Spain Select. I thought LUA was just amazing..I sort of forgot about it in the last years..
Apr 10th, 2024, 06:49 AM
#330
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Yes, the Cloister was THE place in the south. It seemed like we were the only non-southern family to spend Christmas to New Years there. We loved it so much that my first, late husband (madrileño) and I decided to get married there. Our wedding photo is in one of those thick leather bound albums in the bookcases, along with a gazillion other southern Belle brides and their grooms. It was so easy, as we just made one call to the concierge to organize everything (flowers, photographer, wedding cake. & champagne....).
Back then during the holidays tuxedos for the men were de rigueur twice a week, and my husband had to wear a jacket even to breakfast!
The staff was so very kind to my mother when she had to use a walker and made sure to give us a table close to the front and for mom the same room year after year in the main building with an easy walk in shower.
I have wonderful memories of the holidays there with my first husband and my parents. It became our Christmas home.
About the crème de la crème of concierges, the 4,000 worldwide members of Clefs d'Or (in Spain the organization is called Llaves de Oro):
They SHOULD be extremely well versed in their city's dining scene, testing new openings, dining out on their nights off, as many, I'm sure are.
They do wear those intercrossed two golden keys on their lapels.
I've never tested the Mandarin Oriental Ritz head concierge, Borja Martín Guridi, a member, but another older member of the staff knew nothing about Taberna Laredo back in the day when I asked him to reconfirm my reservation. Some just tend to send their guests to places they think would be "comfortable" and ¨handy", "easy" for a non-Spanish speaking foreigner, where wait staff has good ESL skills. The now closed Viridiana, around the corner, or Botín for cochinillo, or Casa Lucio for broken eggs, etc.
But the lead concierge should be able to pull a really tough restaurant reservation out of the hat, or get you quickly off the waiting list with his/her connections.
On HO, there was a poster who was put on the (long) waiting list for DiverXO, but his concierge (don't know who), managed to snag him that highly coveted table tout suite. Or with reservation in hand, he/she *should* be able to secure for the guest one of the best tables and personalized attention.
Some Clefs d'Or Spain members are also at the Rosewood, Intercontinental (both Madrid & Barcelona), Barceló Emperatriz, María Cristina, De Londres y de Inglaterra, Villa Favorita, Son Vida, Marbella Club and Alfonso XIII (I remember talking to you about that last one and his suggestion of Orio, a Sagardi-group restaurant!).
Back then during the holidays tuxedos for the men were de rigueur twice a week, and my husband had to wear a jacket even to breakfast!
The staff was so very kind to my mother when she had to use a walker and made sure to give us a table close to the front and for mom the same room year after year in the main building with an easy walk in shower.
I have wonderful memories of the holidays there with my first husband and my parents. It became our Christmas home.
About the crème de la crème of concierges, the 4,000 worldwide members of Clefs d'Or (in Spain the organization is called Llaves de Oro):
They SHOULD be extremely well versed in their city's dining scene, testing new openings, dining out on their nights off, as many, I'm sure are.
They do wear those intercrossed two golden keys on their lapels.
I've never tested the Mandarin Oriental Ritz head concierge, Borja Martín Guridi, a member, but another older member of the staff knew nothing about Taberna Laredo back in the day when I asked him to reconfirm my reservation. Some just tend to send their guests to places they think would be "comfortable" and ¨handy", "easy" for a non-Spanish speaking foreigner, where wait staff has good ESL skills. The now closed Viridiana, around the corner, or Botín for cochinillo, or Casa Lucio for broken eggs, etc.
But the lead concierge should be able to pull a really tough restaurant reservation out of the hat, or get you quickly off the waiting list with his/her connections.
On HO, there was a poster who was put on the (long) waiting list for DiverXO, but his concierge (don't know who), managed to snag him that highly coveted table tout suite. Or with reservation in hand, he/she *should* be able to secure for the guest one of the best tables and personalized attention.
Some Clefs d'Or Spain members are also at the Rosewood, Intercontinental (both Madrid & Barcelona), Barceló Emperatriz, María Cristina, De Londres y de Inglaterra, Villa Favorita, Son Vida, Marbella Club and Alfonso XIII (I remember talking to you about that last one and his suggestion of Orio, a Sagardi-group restaurant!).
Last edited by Maribel; Apr 10th, 2024 at 07:08 AM.
Apr 10th, 2024, 07:40 AM
#331
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Speaking of complimentary digestifs, if you like crema de orujo or crema de café, at the Gourmet Experience or Club del Gourmet of ECI they sell the Justina de Liébana label, from the Liébana Valley in Cantabria, which is delicious.
Or you can always buy a bottle of RuaVieja Crema de Orujo (Galicia) at the duty free shops in Barajas.
I've never seen crema de orujo in the US. Have you seen it mdn?
https://www.guiarepsol.com/es/comer/...a-y-los-picos/
Or you can always buy a bottle of RuaVieja Crema de Orujo (Galicia) at the duty free shops in Barajas.
I've never seen crema de orujo in the US. Have you seen it mdn?
https://www.guiarepsol.com/es/comer/...a-y-los-picos/
Last edited by Maribel; Apr 10th, 2024 at 07:42 AM.
Apr 10th, 2024, 08:34 AM
#332
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Maribel, I think that the "head concierge," although he does not have the title, at the Orfila has the cloves on his jacket. I think, but am not sure. If he does, hmmmm. I'm sure you are right bout sending guests to places nearby and where the English is good and the food would not be "weird" to some foreigners. The owner/manager at the Orfila is certainly aware of this problem with staff not knowing much about restaurants, because we spoke about it at length. She, of course, knows a lot although she told me that although she does not consider herself a "foodie," her husband is, and his favorite (or one of his favorite) restaurants in Sacha. She was very interested in where I ate and what I thought because she wants to put together a dining guide for guests. The concierge had given me some names of places last yer, but the only one I remember was Sagardi. And I just noticed that there is a Sagardi very close to the hotel, but I've never been there. That's a name I think you trust for meat, at least, right??
LUA is so close to the hotel--I hadn't realized.
Villa Magna sounds tempting, but as I remember, when I was just browsing around before this past trip, their prices were about double what I was paying at the Orfila. But I was not paying the listed rate and when I look at their website, it seems as if I got a nice discount.
LUA is so close to the hotel--I hadn't realized.
Villa Magna sounds tempting, but as I remember, when I was just browsing around before this past trip, their prices were about double what I was paying at the Orfila. But I was not paying the listed rate and when I look at their website, it seems as if I got a nice discount.
Apr 10th, 2024, 08:57 AM
#333
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I don't have notes on what I did during the time I was not eating, in Madrid. I tended to walk around quite a bit, and made several visits to the MERCADO DE LA PAZ.
(Maribel I could not find the Petaca Chico booth!). I walked through all the aisles but did not enquire, as by that point I had so many conservas to bring home. I'm sorry I did not go there, though.. There was another stand, to the right as you enter the market, that sold very high quality conservas. I spent a long time talking with one of the women working there (that's why I don't get too much done because I am always talking about food with someone, somewhere.. This woman told me not to buy from her, but to go to Corte Ingles supermarket and Club de Gourmets to look for conservas. I did not push her on the reason for this and I'm sorry I did not....
So I did ago to El Corte Ingles, as you know, and I did buy food items there, and some sherry. BUT, in walking through the main floor looking for the elevator to the basement, I happened to spy the Loewe boutique. So there I spent about an hour talking to the salesperson, Sonia, who was lovely, and we spoke about my bag (she noticed I was carrying an old black Flamenco, and she asked where I bought it; I bought it in San Sebastián, but she told me that store was closed a long time ago....). Then we began to talk about home prices in Madrid, and on and on and how it was impossible to rent anything anywhere near where she worked nowadays due to all the rich Latins, and the short-term rentals.....
And finally, she put away another, larger Flamenco bag for me in a dark green.
She put a three-day hold on it but I was back the next day, of course, to buy it. That's the only big purchase I made, but I was happy that in Corte Ingles, you can have the VAT returned to you IN CASH. So I got quite a lot of cash back and then only had to have the paperwork stamped at a machine at the airport before going through security.
If anyone has seen the Amazon series, EXPATS (from a wonderful book by Janet YK LEE), you will notice that the bag carried in many scenes by Nicole Kidman is a large Loewe Flamenco bag in a caramel color....she is so tall that she can carry that largest size, which I once modeled in a mirror and looked ridiculous one me, since I am about half Kidman's height.
Ok, so here are a few photos of the MERCADO DE LA PAZ:
Centolla crab...I believe these are cooked so ready to take home and devour!
Look at these gorgeous hake cheeks!! Pricey.
And look at this sole (lenguado)...it makes the NYC fish markets look pretty shabby....
The legendary Percebes from Galicia!! Even at that price, one vendor had sold out before noon! Delicious but not so easy to tease out all the meat
White asparagus, look at the shading!! I should print this and hang it on my wall!
I was surprised to see calcots, as I thought they were only big in Catalunya.....I saw them at only one stand and this was the only basket there! I loved eating them in Barcelona!!
(Maribel I could not find the Petaca Chico booth!). I walked through all the aisles but did not enquire, as by that point I had so many conservas to bring home. I'm sorry I did not go there, though.. There was another stand, to the right as you enter the market, that sold very high quality conservas. I spent a long time talking with one of the women working there (that's why I don't get too much done because I am always talking about food with someone, somewhere.. This woman told me not to buy from her, but to go to Corte Ingles supermarket and Club de Gourmets to look for conservas. I did not push her on the reason for this and I'm sorry I did not....
So I did ago to El Corte Ingles, as you know, and I did buy food items there, and some sherry. BUT, in walking through the main floor looking for the elevator to the basement, I happened to spy the Loewe boutique. So there I spent about an hour talking to the salesperson, Sonia, who was lovely, and we spoke about my bag (she noticed I was carrying an old black Flamenco, and she asked where I bought it; I bought it in San Sebastián, but she told me that store was closed a long time ago....). Then we began to talk about home prices in Madrid, and on and on and how it was impossible to rent anything anywhere near where she worked nowadays due to all the rich Latins, and the short-term rentals.....
And finally, she put away another, larger Flamenco bag for me in a dark green.
She put a three-day hold on it but I was back the next day, of course, to buy it. That's the only big purchase I made, but I was happy that in Corte Ingles, you can have the VAT returned to you IN CASH. So I got quite a lot of cash back and then only had to have the paperwork stamped at a machine at the airport before going through security.
If anyone has seen the Amazon series, EXPATS (from a wonderful book by Janet YK LEE), you will notice that the bag carried in many scenes by Nicole Kidman is a large Loewe Flamenco bag in a caramel color....she is so tall that she can carry that largest size, which I once modeled in a mirror and looked ridiculous one me, since I am about half Kidman's height.
Ok, so here are a few photos of the MERCADO DE LA PAZ:
Centolla crab...I believe these are cooked so ready to take home and devour!
Look at these gorgeous hake cheeks!! Pricey.
And look at this sole (lenguado)...it makes the NYC fish markets look pretty shabby....
The legendary Percebes from Galicia!! Even at that price, one vendor had sold out before noon! Delicious but not so easy to tease out all the meat
White asparagus, look at the shading!! I should print this and hang it on my wall!
I was surprised to see calcots, as I thought they were only big in Catalunya.....I saw them at only one stand and this was the only basket there! I loved eating them in Barcelona!!
Apr 10th, 2024, 09:06 AM
#334
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Lovely shop to right of market entrance coming off Calle de Ayala..long discussion with staff member. These look like top quality conservas and I took the photos to show the prices...this staff member pointed me to El Corte Ingles and I think that is because they sell conservas that are not so pricey (along with the very expensive ones)
People in the US ask me what I buy in Spain and when I tell them canned tuna and canned seafood, they look at me like I'm nuts!! "You schlep tuna fish from Spain?? Last time I looked, they sold it in every supermarket here in NY". I've managed to educate a few friends, but not many!! I have to explain that this tuna is not destined for a mayonnaise-ey salad or a tuna sandwich. I use the tuna from Spanish tins in a salad: Good lettuce (not from bags in the supermarket); small white beans (I use Goya, canned); pickled red onions; sliced celery or some nice sprouts if I have them....I toss the greens and onions with dressing made from lemon juice and olive oil (sometimes orange flavored oil I bought in Sicily); sometimes I add a squeezed orange to the dressing along with the lemon; and then put the tuna and the beans on top, along with halves of lightly hard-boiled eggs.
Almejas (clams). Tins for 50 and for 36euro. The company ice from Cambados, Galicia.Wter, clams and salt....no preservatives in any of these conservas.
Angulas..I wish I had bought these to try but I will have a chance, if the season is right, in Galicia.
These are the smaller clams, thus the higher price,, I think
People in the US ask me what I buy in Spain and when I tell them canned tuna and canned seafood, they look at me like I'm nuts!! "You schlep tuna fish from Spain?? Last time I looked, they sold it in every supermarket here in NY". I've managed to educate a few friends, but not many!! I have to explain that this tuna is not destined for a mayonnaise-ey salad or a tuna sandwich. I use the tuna from Spanish tins in a salad: Good lettuce (not from bags in the supermarket); small white beans (I use Goya, canned); pickled red onions; sliced celery or some nice sprouts if I have them....I toss the greens and onions with dressing made from lemon juice and olive oil (sometimes orange flavored oil I bought in Sicily); sometimes I add a squeezed orange to the dressing along with the lemon; and then put the tuna and the beans on top, along with halves of lightly hard-boiled eggs.
Almejas (clams). Tins for 50 and for 36euro. The company ice from Cambados, Galicia.Wter, clams and salt....no preservatives in any of these conservas.
Angulas..I wish I had bought these to try but I will have a chance, if the season is right, in Galicia.
These are the smaller clams, thus the higher price,, I think
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 10th, 2024 at 09:12 AM.
Apr 10th, 2024, 09:21 AM
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Random photos from the Club de Gourmets, in the basement of El Corte Ingles (the branch of the store on Calle Serrano was close to my hotel)
Herpac (major brand from Cadiz area), from Barbate, where I had just been earlier in the week. These are from the "frigate" species of tuna, and from mackerel (caballa) which is very good.
Jamon de Mar, bluefin tuna salted and cured like jamon Iberico; look at the slicer! I had this the previous night at LA CATAPA, but mine there was much paler in color,andn the sliced were larger. 22.90 for 100 grammes. I think LA CATAPA might cure their own. Maribel, see the dark red tin of RioFrio caviar in the rear, right...that is the size I bought to et in the hotel. Iranian caviar is also sold in Spain, and you can see a few cans to the right of the jamon de mar; the brand is Caspian Pearl. Corte Ingles also sells 200 gram tins of Caspian beluga for 1590euro!!
Have you ever seen more beautiful tomatoes? And for under $3 per pound????
This is the belly of the tuna "Bonito del Norte," and Ortiz is the brand I buy most often in the US, as it's easy to find and sold on Amazon. But the US price has almost doubled in the past year....I bought a few cans here, too. To the right of the Ortiz is the Corte Ingles brand of tuna; I bought some and brought them home but have not yet tried them. Also Bonito del Norte tuna, from the Bay of Biscay. They had a lot of 'deals" in the supermarket section that day, so I picked up some tinned asparagus and a few tins of both sweet, and hot, pimenton (smoked paprika from Extremadura)
Herpac (major brand from Cadiz area), from Barbate, where I had just been earlier in the week. These are from the "frigate" species of tuna, and from mackerel (caballa) which is very good.
Jamon de Mar, bluefin tuna salted and cured like jamon Iberico; look at the slicer! I had this the previous night at LA CATAPA, but mine there was much paler in color,andn the sliced were larger. 22.90 for 100 grammes. I think LA CATAPA might cure their own. Maribel, see the dark red tin of RioFrio caviar in the rear, right...that is the size I bought to et in the hotel. Iranian caviar is also sold in Spain, and you can see a few cans to the right of the jamon de mar; the brand is Caspian Pearl. Corte Ingles also sells 200 gram tins of Caspian beluga for 1590euro!!
Have you ever seen more beautiful tomatoes? And for under $3 per pound????
This is the belly of the tuna "Bonito del Norte," and Ortiz is the brand I buy most often in the US, as it's easy to find and sold on Amazon. But the US price has almost doubled in the past year....I bought a few cans here, too. To the right of the Ortiz is the Corte Ingles brand of tuna; I bought some and brought them home but have not yet tried them. Also Bonito del Norte tuna, from the Bay of Biscay. They had a lot of 'deals" in the supermarket section that day, so I picked up some tinned asparagus and a few tins of both sweet, and hot, pimenton (smoked paprika from Extremadura)
Last edited by ekscrunchy; Apr 10th, 2024 at 09:30 AM.
Apr 10th, 2024, 09:42 AM
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Eks,
Mantequerías Bravo also sells beluga caviar, as it was featured in a recent article in Vanitatis. Perhaps this is the lovely lady who help you, the current family member in charge, Elena Bravo?
https://www.vanitatis.elconfidencial...o-bra_3859313/
You hit my favorite La Paz stand, Alvarez Selección, where I buy my Herpac treats and other conservas from Cambados.
I don't know how you missed the "Almadraba Experience" at ECI because it takes up a very large space on the same side as Casa Dani but before you get to Casa Dani. It has a large counter where you can dine. It sits before you reach the La Boulette cheese stand.
https://www.lavozdigital.es/gurme/ca...1_noticia.html
I haven't stopped there. It so far hasn't taken the market by storm. I don't know why. The last time I walked by the counter stools were empty, but I also go before the lunch hour.
Mantequerías Bravo also sells beluga caviar, as it was featured in a recent article in Vanitatis. Perhaps this is the lovely lady who help you, the current family member in charge, Elena Bravo?
https://www.vanitatis.elconfidencial...o-bra_3859313/
You hit my favorite La Paz stand, Alvarez Selección, where I buy my Herpac treats and other conservas from Cambados.
I don't know how you missed the "Almadraba Experience" at ECI because it takes up a very large space on the same side as Casa Dani but before you get to Casa Dani. It has a large counter where you can dine. It sits before you reach the La Boulette cheese stand.
https://www.lavozdigital.es/gurme/ca...1_noticia.html
I haven't stopped there. It so far hasn't taken the market by storm. I don't know why. The last time I walked by the counter stools were empty, but I also go before the lunch hour.
Apr 10th, 2024, 09:44 AM
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Speaking of Sagardi...our hotel, the Pavilions, just a couple of blocks from yours, also recommends the Sagardi on the Castellana.
This Basque-Catalán group has expanded very quickly and is now multi-national with restaurants in Buenos Aires, Porto, Amsterdam, London, and who knows, next up, maybe Miami!
I've eaten in several: 3 in Barcelona, the one in the Euskal Etxea directly across from the Teatro de la Zarzuela here in Madrid and in Valencia. The Valencia Tourist Board took us there during Fallas and we had a great txuleta meal upstairs. Their beef is first rate. You can count on having a delicious txuleta at Sagardi. In the downstairs bars, the mayo-based pintxos all taste the same to me, and I don't like being given a plate and told to fill it up with their pintxos. One pintxo per bar is the rule for me.
This Basque-Catalán group has expanded very quickly and is now multi-national with restaurants in Buenos Aires, Porto, Amsterdam, London, and who knows, next up, maybe Miami!
I've eaten in several: 3 in Barcelona, the one in the Euskal Etxea directly across from the Teatro de la Zarzuela here in Madrid and in Valencia. The Valencia Tourist Board took us there during Fallas and we had a great txuleta meal upstairs. Their beef is first rate. You can count on having a delicious txuleta at Sagardi. In the downstairs bars, the mayo-based pintxos all taste the same to me, and I don't like being given a plate and told to fill it up with their pintxos. One pintxo per bar is the rule for me.
Apr 10th, 2024, 10:13 AM
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Raf tomatoes--we purchase them from our local Alcampo. They're the best.
Our former hotel, the Tótem in the Barrio de Salamanca publishes an online "local guru" gastronomy guide, but it recommends Italian and very "fashion" spots, the most "Instagramable" like Amazónico on Jorge Juan. It´s not for seasoned, very serious food lovers but instead more geared to fashionistas or those who want to know the most trendy spots. It will be interesting to see what restaurant recommendations the Orfila lists.
Our former hotel, the Tótem in the Barrio de Salamanca publishes an online "local guru" gastronomy guide, but it recommends Italian and very "fashion" spots, the most "Instagramable" like Amazónico on Jorge Juan. It´s not for seasoned, very serious food lovers but instead more geared to fashionistas or those who want to know the most trendy spots. It will be interesting to see what restaurant recommendations the Orfila lists.
