Maribel

Thanks Revulgo and the “floats” or images on their thrones are called pasos in Sevilla but tronos in Málaga. The last one on my Instagram is the trono de AMOR, the largest one of this evening, Good Friday or here, Viernes Santo. It’s now raining so I think, sadly, we may be done for the evening.

Easter Sunday or Domingo de Resurección I also know as Domingo de Gloria.

ekscrunchy

Mike that is so interesting! I took a look at the Zahara flat and they have availability next year on their calendar for early August only. The fact that you said once the the sea was as warm as a lake in late summer really draws me at that time. I will be returning to Spain in May but to Galicia and Lanzarote; I've made two quick visits to 'Galicia but never been to the Canary Islands. That came up as an idea when I saw a Jose Andres show and found that there is a direct flight from Santiago to Lanzarote.

I certainly have to visit Sanlucar on my net visit to the Vejer area....do you, and Maribel, agree that it would be best to have an overnight there, or is a day trip with lunch at Baja de Guia also a smart option?

ekscrunchy

I'd like to continued with this thread, about my drive to Bolonia. This is a fascinating spot because not only does it have one of the largest, most dramatic sand dunes in Europe, but right on the beach, within close view of the dune, lie the fairly well intact remnants of a once-powerful Roman outpost dating to the 2 and 3rd Century BC. The excavated area sprawls over grassy land adjacent to the wide white sand beach. There is a small but well-arranged museum with placards in both English and Spanish, explaining the importance of the town, which encompasses the remains of a theatre, forum, ancients baths, and aqueducts. Excavations are continuing as the shifting sands reveal burial chambers complete with funerary artifacts.
Bolonia is a stunning site and the museum offers an excellent introduction. It's about a 45-minute, very easy drive from the Vejer area, along excellent and lightly traveled roads, past forests of wind turbines and green fields dotted with the shapes of grazing long-horned cattle and horses.

But there was one particular draw at Bolonia that fascinated me with its connection to food!

I'll gather my photos and come back later after a few "chores"

studenttobe

Maribel-very relieved to hear about your DH. Thanks for letting me know.

Maribel

Eks,
In my many visits to Sanlúcar I’ve never spent the night because it’s an easy drive from Jerez. I remember that maybe long ago you did spend the night, correct?

Because it’s small it doesn’t have many hotel options but mostly B&Bs.
The “fanciest” hotel now is the Palacio Marqués de Arizón that Eurostars just incorporated into its holdings. It’s a 4-star and has a seasonal exterior pool.
The palace is a 17th century Baroque building with tower. Exterior parking.

That said,,,,,,the boutique 4-star plus Albariza gets a much higher booking.com rating, 9.3 opposed to the Eurostars rating of 8.5.
Look at both.
We’ve talked about the Albariza before, perhaps in an email. The Albariza would be my choice. And it’s an eco hotel, winning an award for its sustainability.
Ask the folks at Casa Palacio María Luisa what they think.

In the meantime, it’s raining buckets here in Andalucía. No processions today in Málaga but none are sceduled on Holy Saturday here. 5 did get to process in Sevilla.

zebec

Maribel, your Easter procession video was fascinating! Maybe Fodors would consider creating a new, specially dedicated thread for such?
I am done. the rainy search for a marquetry box

Maribel

Zebec,
Thanks so much!
We got really lucky with the Sevilla one after enduring a 90 minute wait in a crushing crowd, watching the 2,000 nazarenos (the penitents) process by, Then my husband squeezed into the very front just in time for the Virgen de la Salud to pass by. We could touch the flowers on her throne. A magic moment.

Patience is a virtue during Holy Week in Sevilla. It takes a full 2 hours for La Macarena to emerge from her Basilica at midnight on Maundy Thursday, but it’s well worth the wait…one of the most beautiful processions of Semana Santa. Sadly she got rained out this year, but we were fortunate to experience her procession last time and this week we could visit her in her Basilica, as we could the others, like her Triana “rival” La Esperanza, who weren’t able to process during the Madrugá.

mike1728

The Roman ruins of Bolonia (Baelo Claudia) are a must see for anyone with any historical interests. The fact that it was built directly on a beach is fascinating. The sights from the ruins over the Atlantic are beautiful. As Eks mentions, the massive sand dune directly near the ruins makes Bolonia a must see. It has been described as one of the most beautiful beaches in all of Europe. Very few crowds in September/October and I’m sure May as well. You can walk the beach south towards Tarifa and walk amongst some nice rock formations, and for those with a healthy dose of stamina you can climb the dunes….a tough workout!

ekscrunchy

Mike, I didn't attempt to conquer the dune but I agree that the site is a must! It was very hot the day I was there, surprising since the site is right on the ocean...in fact I think that day was the hottest I had on the entire trip.

I've been meaning to continue on about Baelo and the rest of the trip but I'm being very lazy here about (still) unpacking and relaxing, but will certainly return very soon. Well, the truth is that I've also been floundering around on the computer looking at different possibilities for next March....someplace in the north before I head to Andalucia...typical of me, I've not yet unpacked but already immersed in a future trip, and not even the NEXT one!

Maribel, you have some incredible memory! Yes, I stayed overnight in Sanlucar at Los Helechos on a trip that included Sevilla, Arcos and a visit to Sandeman in Jerez back when the partner was still working in the wine industry. The hotel was nice, nothing fancy but as I recall, very pretty with the rooms opening onto a courtyard. I'm picturing a lot of plants and green tiles. We had dinner (I think) at Casa Bigote but I don't remember much else about our visit except a stop at a convent to buy some sweets. Driving there and back from Vejer in one day might be a bit much for me but I'm wondering about going on a day trip from Jerez, as we had planned and as we will do someday, I hope!! Enough of this "ships passing in the night!"

Maribel

Yes, eks, a day trip from your super lovely Jerez hotel will probably suffice. Nothing in Sanlúcar will be comparable to the
Casa Palacio María Luisa. We passed right by the Helechos and I remembered you had stayed there long ago.

In the museum of Bolonia we learned the history of garum production. You were so very lucky not to have experienced a levante or a poniente wind during your stay. The poniente almost swept me off the beach. They are fierce!

ekscrunchy

YES..the most interesting thing to me, in Baelo Claudia, were the exhibits devoted to the production of garum.

Throughout the Roman Empire, this was a highly valued liquid made from pressing fish and, in some cases as in Baelo Claudia, adding salt before pressing. The liquid that was extracted from the fish could then be packed into terra cotta vessels and sent to outposts distant from the ports.

I first came to know about this in visits to the garum (called colatura in Italy) producing center of Cetara, a favorite town of mine on the Amalfi Coast, and one of the only towns on that coast that does not rely solely on tourism. Both Cetara, and Pisciotta, to the south in the Cilento,, are famed for their anchovy catch. Back in the Roman epoch, the anchovies would be salted. and pressed in layers of straw, allowing the liquid to filter down, and this amber-colored liquid was known as garum, or colatura. It could then be shipped throughout the Empire, and made a valuable asset in the times before the sea routes to the East or West had brought spices to the table. (Imagine a table where the foods were prepared without the addition of any salt or spices). This process is still in use today in Cetara, where every other shop seems to sell the coveted liquid colatura; I always have some on hand for flavoring sauces and some pasta dishes.

https://www.nytimes.com/2003/10/22/d...lfi-coast.html


I was surprised and happy to learn, at Baelo Claudia, that a similar process has been used here since the Second Century BC, only instead of anchovies, the liquid was extracted from the tuna that swam past this coast on their way to the Strait of Gibraltar and the Mediterranean. There is a room in the museum devoted to the production of this valuable liquid, detailing the arrival of the blocks of salt from Africa, which arrived at the port and were unloaded and brought to the area devoted to the garum production. Along with the salt, the tuna catch was unloaded and brought to the same location where it was gutted and sliced into the smaller pieces that would then be layered with the salt, and pressed, eventually resulting in the liquid.
The liquid was then packed in amphorae (??) and shipped throughout the Empire, for use as a condiment by the wealthy.

This mural depicts the process, and I found myself lingering here for a long time, trying to decipher every stage in the production process; the first photo is of the large mural,, offering an overview of the garum producing area; after that,, details of the process.

I believe that the salt was brought from mines in West Africa although that is not specified in the museum's exhibits. These large, flat rectangles of pressed salt were carried by caravans of camels from mines deep in the Sahara. Among these mines were those in Northern Mali, which were in operation until recently. I think that the Tuareg unrest in the area, and the advent of ISIS in West Africa disrupted this trade. I do remember seeing camels loaded with salt blocks during my visits to Mali in the 1990s. But I'm just speculating here; its possible that the salt came from flats in other parts of Rome's Mediterranean Empire.


The tuna and salt enter the settlement, separately, through the gate, and proceed to the garum "factory."

Breaking down the large tuna on the beach.

Notice the word, "Cetaria," on the building wall. Not sure what that means---but related to the Italian anchovy capital of Cetara??

Preparing smaller fish for processing

I was so fascinated by this mural.


Details of the exhibit

ekscrunchy

A few remnants uncovered at the site:

ekscrunchy

Overview of garum and fish processing "factory" by the sea at Baelo Claudia

Garum-producing area, with deep vats in center for salting and pressing fish

Details of almadraba fishing (dating from Phoenicians and still in use today), and explanation of the site

Explanatory plaque, revealing the connection between Baelo and Tangiers (Tingis); you can see Morocco across the water from the site...

Overview of the site, presided over by statue of Emperor Trajan, which was believed to have been abandoned after an earthquake, followed by pirate incursions, in the Third Century CE. Baelo Claudia is said to be the best preserved Roman town on the Iberian Peninsula. The site also encompasses a well-preserved theater and aqueduct.

If you have a strong interest, I would allow 2 hours to visit the museum and the site itself. Bring a hat (with an under-chin tie in case of wind) and sunscreen, as well as water. There are no drinks of food sold within the site, or at least I did not see any. There is a small restaurant/provision shop, just before you enter the site, and a few places to eat nearby, including one that Maribel recommends, LAS REJAS in nearby El Lentiscal. I wish I had had time to visit, but I had a table waiting for me at ANTONIO, as usual!!

zebec

Eks, that was a fascinating set of fotos, with the murals and your explanations. We just re-watched the final episodes of the 'Spartacus' TV series and thus have ancient Rome in mind.
Also just yesterday, we ripped a couple traditional Calabrian folk songs from a library CD onto our collection, numbers that hark back to that bygone era: a tuna fisherman's song plus his swordfish equivalent.

Just as modern folks who now work in slaughterhouses will find the stench a challenge to remove from their bodies and clothes, one imagines that the folks slaving at such garum warehouses had to deal with the smell on them too.
I am done. The garum

ekscrunchy

I had a 14:30 lunch reservation at ANTONIO, so I drove to Atlanterra, on almost empty roads cutting through lush green, hilly fields dotted with the now ubiquitous brown cows and the wind turbines which had now become, to me, a sculptural emblem of the area. You need to drive a good ways inland, as there is no road along the coast linking Baelo Claudia to the Zahara area.

I've already discussed my lunches at ANTONIO and this one did not veer much from the previous ones; I stuck mostly to my favorites: Carabineros, artichokes, and sometimes one additional dish because I wanted to sample more of the menu than I had already.

At this lunch, I received a welcome bowl of delicious salmorejo, which I followed with (as usual) artichoke and a pair of carabineros. PLUS, I ordered grilled sole.

I knew I would not be able to finish the fish but I also knew that the restaurant, like all the others I had visited on this trip, were more than pleased to pack it up "para lever"-- take home (or take hotel!). In fact, as soon as I finished the salmorejo, the artichoke and the shrimp, I was sated, so the lovely waiter packed up the untouched sole for me to take back to my hotel where I had the use of the communal fridge.

I just cannot say enough about how kind everyone was, both at ANTONIO and at all of the restaurants I visited. Were they extra kind because I was a solo female? Would a foreign couple get the same treatment? I think so, and I will certainly find out on my upcoming trip to Spain, which will be with my partner.

Although I had been a little anxious about traveling (especially driving) alone, I think that going solo brought me benefits that I would not have had if I had been with another person.
I'm pretty sure about this, and I'm also sure that speaking the language broke down any barriers that might have existed has I not had any Spanish skills. I think of myself as a shy person ( I was the freshman college student who ate lunch in her dorm room, alone, rather than be faced with entering the dining room and having no one to sit with!). But somehow, in Spain, I was always eager to instigate a conversation, and the result was that I learned so much and that my entire trip was enhanced in a big way.... This was not high season, so there were not many tourists around that I could spot and, also, there certainly were not single foreign tourists that were obvious to me. And, as Mike has mentioned, above, I saw no other Americans in this part of Spain.

I've said this before and I will say it again: Spain is THE ideal country to visit alone......even if you do not speak Spanish, so many people have some English skills that they are eager to use... I'm so glad I got over my initial fear of driving alone during my visit last year. Now I'm ready to drive almost anyplace in Spain!! Alone!!

Here are some photos from that day's lunch at ANTONIO; I will add to those a few from another lunch later that week.

I should also add that ANTONIO can be expensive. My lunches there, which were my only (paid) meal of the day (a large breakfast was included with my room rate at the inn) were especially costly since I usually ordered the carabinero shrimp which were priced at 190euro per kilo. Certainly if I had excluded those, and any other pricey shellfish, I would have come away with far lighter cuentas.

I will post a few of the lunch bills later on but again, the price value ratio was impeccable given the incredibly high quality and preparation of all of the dishes.

Here are a few more photos of ANTONIO, of lunch on two different days:




ANTONIO....welcome salmorejo (cold soup emblematic dish of this area of Andalucia, and maybe all of Andalucia); bits of jamon Iberico on the top, to be mixed in with the liquid....!!!!

Jamon Iberico sheet over roasted artichoke

Pair of carabineros; view from my usual table in front room, facing the bar; the restaurant also has a more formal dining room overlooking the sand and the sea

Grilled sole (lenguado): .45 kilo@ 75euro per kilo. I was astounded at the beauty and freshness of the sole (and all the other fish) in the markets and here at the restaurant, as compared to what I see in New York. In the background is a slice of their crunchy bread colored with turmeric.

Welcome dish of Patatas aliñadas with chunks of bluefin (red) tuna.....how could tuna and potatoes taste so incredibly fantastic????? The answer must be in the product itself....the potatoes, from Conil, were exceptional, so great that I tried to find them in a market and bring them home!!

Carpaccio de carabinero....this was gorgeous to look at and just out-of-this-world to eat. There were two vinaigrettes....and dollops of trout roe....I dream of this, still.....

Close up of the carpaccio of carabinero shrimp, with the red globules of trout roe....I never knew that trout roe could be so fantastic, texture-wise and taste-wise!! Once I arrived in Madrid, I further explored caviar from Spain.

SusanP

There's no doubt about it, when you're travelling alone, people are much more likely to talk to you. I've had it happen a lot in Italy.

ekscrunchy

Yes, I'm sure you are right! In some ways it's more fun to be alone!! But for so long I was afraid to drive by myself...I was always ok with going to cities alone and now I feel so "empowered" by his newfound freedom, albeit at this late date!!!

SusanP

I haven't reached that point and probably won't. Actually, I like to drive, but I always figure that the car will break down in the middle of nowhere and there will be no cell service!

Maribel

Glad your trip has given you the confidence to drive, eks.

It’s great to be able to take back to one’s lodging a lovely dish or two that we can’t finish in a restaurant. There is a campaign against food waste here, and my Diario de Gastronomía daily newsletter gives nice recipes for creative dishes to make with leftovers, “comida sin desperdicio”
Here are 2 wonderful rice dishes from BELUGA in Málaga, one with duck, pumpkin & foie and one with pluma, broad beans and chives, half of which we took back to our hotel. This restaurant offers a dozen very well executed rice dishes along with tasting menus and a la carte. The chef hails from Alicante. Very personable

Rices from Beluga, Málaga.
, attentive sevice as well.

lrice

EKS, I love your idea of possibly going back during the Holy Week.

Maribel's videos of the many processions have been amazing! I am obsessed watching them over and over:

https://www.instagram.com/maribelsgu...RlODBiNWFlZA==