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Live...from spain!!! Cordoba, costa de da luz (vejer de la frontera area, madrid

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Live...from spain!!! Cordoba, costa de da luz (vejer de la frontera area, madrid

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Old Mar 26th, 2024, 11:53 AM
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This food centred report has been a fascinating read.
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Old Mar 26th, 2024, 02:55 PM
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Venta Pinto..15 times…16 this coming September….sooooo good.
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Old Mar 27th, 2024, 02:31 AM
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What a terrific TR, Eks!! We are indeed lucky to vicariously enjoy your amazing trip. Sad that your trip is over, but I’ll wait patiently for the remainder of your report. ¡Salud!
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Old Mar 27th, 2024, 03:31 AM
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Eks-I completely savored your TR and have saved it for future reference. Sounds like a wonderful adventure in all respects.

Maribel-So very sorry to hear about your husband’s cardiac surgery. I wish him all the best with his recovery and strength to you as caretaker. (We’ve had considerable experience w/cardiac surgery in our household (namely, valve replacements). If I can be of any help in terms of tips on taking care of someone after surgery or during the cardiac rehab phase, feel free to PM me. ) Sending good thoughts to you both.
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Old Mar 27th, 2024, 10:18 AM
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eks,
Pacharán aka Patxaran is a traditional liqueur from Navarra that is also widely drunk in the Basque Country.
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Old Mar 27th, 2024, 10:51 AM
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Gracias, Revulgo!

I knew it was from the north so I was a little surprised that I was offered a "chupito" after almost every meal on the Costa de la Luz. I also saw a variety with coffee.
The choice for chupito was usually either Pacharan or something they called "hierba," which was a yellow color. I liked the Pacharan better and I bought a bottle to enjoy in my room in Vejer as well!

Mike:

To think that this was the first year that I actually at Venta Pinto (not just shopped in their colmado)!!!
I will have to make up for all of those bocadillos I missed in prior years!!!
I'm happy to say that two containers of manteca colora are now happily ensconced in my refrigerator here in Florida. I only hope I can find some decent bread to toast and slather with it!


Can I ask you where you live most of the year? I'm curious as to how you found Zahara and that area; since so few Americans seem to travel there, I imagine you might be from the Uk (??)



So I'm back in Florida for the next month or so, bursting with great memories of what proved to be an absolutely perfect trip in every single way!!!! (I know I wrote the same thing last year after that trip!!). I'm already dreaming of next March, and where to combine with the Costa de la Luz....

Every single detail of this trip was just fantastic! Including the flight home which, mercifully, was on Iberia and not on American, the airline that flew me to Madrid. The seats, the cleanliness of the cabin, the personnel, and even the food (except the beef at dinner) on Iberia were just perfect. (They served a hot, round vegetable and cheese dish near landing and I wish I had the recipe--it was SO good!!) I told all of this to the purser and he was pleased to hear about the comparison between their code-share partner, American. He said that on the route I took, American uses very old planes. I willl never take American again if I have the choice of Iberia, instead.

One comment I have about the wheelchair service upon departure from both Miami and Madrid. I think they are both provided by AENA. For the past year or so, I've had to request assistance because my bad back makes it hard to carry ALL OF MY HEAVY BAGS. The problem is that when you check in, you are sent to a holding area to wait for the wheelchair transport person. And you wait. And wait, And wait. This happened both times on this trip, departing from Miami and departing from Madrid. In Miami I was told that the wait for a wheelchair would be 40 minutes!!!!! So since I could walk, a little painfully and very slowly, I just went to the gate on my own. And yesterday in Madrid, when I checked in and the check in agent called for a wheelchair, she got no answer!!! She called and called and called, so many times, and no one picked up the phone at the AENA desk!! So again, because I now try to check as much as I can to make the carrying easier, I thanked her and took off for the gate alone. For me this was doable, if uncomfortable. But to anyone who really cannot make it without assistance, my tip would to allow an extra minimum of a half an hour to wait for the chair.

But I now have that new policy where I check as much as I can, keeping the hand baggage to a minimum.....it's so freeing to walk onto the plane with a purse and my small Kipling backpack. The Eagle Creek wheeled cabin bag now gets checked even though it can fit in the overhead bin. Its just to difficult to take these often excruciatingly long walks to the gates.

None of that detracted in the least from my adventure, just adding for extra information....

As I said, I'm back in the US now, and after taking a day for unpacking and washing, I will get right back to this report..I'm having fun writing it, especially now that I can post the photos!!!

Last edited by ekscrunchy; Mar 27th, 2024 at 10:56 AM.
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Old Mar 27th, 2024, 04:29 PM
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Zahara is one of those villages that looks fantastic from afar but might disappoint up close. Nothing wrong with it at all, mind you. Thirty years on, I imagine not much has changed since our rainy visit.
There are a number of great view-perspectives surrounding it, with the one right before the main highway as the easiest.
I am done. the pueblo
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Old Mar 27th, 2024, 08:40 PM
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Loved following along EKS! Your travel reporting is so visual and detailed. What a wonderful trip!

Did you see any of the Holy Week festivities?

For anyone interested, Maribel posted some fantastic videos on her Instagram:

https://www.instagram.com/reel/C49TN...RlODBiNWFlZA==

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Old Mar 28th, 2024, 06:08 AM
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Trying to get caught up with your awesome report! I've been in Texas for the last 2 weeks visiting our grandchildren. Had an awesome roadtrip to the Texas Hill Country.

Maribel, I am so sorry to hear about your husband's surgery. That must have been very scary. Wishing him a speedy recovery and good health in the future.

Eks, your report and photos are awesome! Love the mouth watering descriptions and photos of all the amazing food you have had on this trip. If we have the opportunity to visit this part of Spain, your report will come in very handy.
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Old Mar 28th, 2024, 09:58 AM
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Karen thanks so much!! I've been once to the Texas Hill Country, for work many years ago, and always wanted to return to that beautiful area. And combine with some barbecue at those towns famous for that...

I'm still unpacking but will return to finish up this report soon....and the great news is that I have another trip to Spain planned for MAY!!!! (This time with my partner; I feel very fortunate but it surely will be difficult to equal this last one with the scenery, the food, and everything else!!)
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Old Mar 28th, 2024, 10:19 AM
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Eks,
The typical digestivo served here in Madrid at our favorite places is either patxarán or orujo de hierbas or crema de orujo, the latter which tastes a bit like Baileys. Orujo you will find produced in Galicia, Cantabria, Asturias, Basque Country.
Our favorite comes from the Liébana Valley in Cantabria (Potes).
At La Catapa they offer us the choice of all 3 plus chocolates
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Old Mar 28th, 2024, 11:57 AM
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My favorite crema de orujo is produce by Bodegas Baigorri in Samaniego, Rioja Alavesa.

I’m really glad you made it home with your lomo en manteca and all of your other goodies.

Looking forward to your Madrid dining reports when you get a chance to unwind.
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Old Mar 28th, 2024, 03:41 PM
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Maribel I hope you are having an amazing time in Andalucia (I think you are still there; I saw your videos on Instagram.....instead of trying to avoid all the celebrations I need to go during that time, at least once!)

Those chocolates at La Catapa were incredibly delicious! I will investigate the Pacharans and, especially, the crema de orujo. It's so incredible how diversified the food is in all the regions of the country, and even within regions.

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Old Mar 29th, 2024, 02:58 AM
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eks,
There is nothing in the world like Semana Santa in Sevilla.
The crowds are huge!! but I just embrace it with my whole being.

To see the Macarena in her temple or the Virgen de la Esperanza leave her church or Jesús del Gran Poder, the 3 most venerated pasos, at midnight (or later) during the Madrugá, which is lat Thursday evening until early Friday morning, when Semana Santa reaches its fever pitch, is simply amazing.

The pageantry, the beauty, the skill of the costaleros who carry these hugely heavy pasos and maneuver around corners and into tiny streets is awe inspiring.
And we were lucky enough to hear ladies sing several saestas sing from the balconies during the procession. While the saetas are sung above the paso which stops and rests during the procession, you can hear a pin drop.

We peeked into every church we could find to photograph these elaborate, striking images, and the locals visiting were extremely respectful. There is a devotion that's inspiring.

The pity is that many of the processions weren't able to leave their churches because of the rain. So many processions were washed out, but we did get to see some amazing ones, and of course, were able to see the pasos in their native churches or basilicas. There was a line 2 blocks long every day, to pay respects to the image of Jesús del Gran Poder on the Plaza de San Lorenzo, where we were staying.

Do go, but maybe to Jerez instead of Sevilla, where there will be fewer heaving crowds but still great solemnity.

It's far more solemn in Sevilla, Jerez, Ubeda, Jaén, Baeza, Ronda and Antequera than in Málaga, because of the massive number of young European tourists that fly into Málaga on the many low cost flights during the final Easter weekend, not to enjoy the processions but instead to party (more on that later---no selfie sticks in Sevilla but they're all over the place in Málaga)
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Old Mar 29th, 2024, 07:39 AM
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Eks,
If you do someday decide to embrace Semana Santa, I would go first on the sábado de pasión before Domingo de Ramos to Sevilla before the crowds get too heavy, then move by train to Jerez for Jueves Santo, Viernes Santo, Sábado Santo and Domingo de Resurrección. The final weekend in Jerez will be equally intense but without the tremendous crowds. I did this before and we should have moved to Jerez this time rather than to Málaga.

AENA is the organization that runs the Spain airports. They were in charge of the service in Madrid, and it does take a long, long time.

Since we have Platinum Pro status on AA, I take advantage of my 3 free checked bags and make my way to the gate only with my handbag. Because T4 Barajas is so huge, for me it does make a huge difference.

We too like the service and food on Iberia’s business class much better, but their Turista Plus is far inferior to AA’s Premium Economy ( just for anyone contemplating a choice between the two in that class).

Thanks so much Karenwoo and studenttobe for your good wishes for my husband. He’s well healed now and having a great time chasing the processions!

Now time to plan your May trip, eks!,
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Old Mar 29th, 2024, 08:24 AM
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Originally Posted by Maribel
Eks,
If you do someday decide to embrace Semana Santa, I would go first on the sábado de pasión before Domingo de Ramos to Sevilla before the crowds get too heavy, then move by train to Jerez for Jueves Santo, Viernes Santo, Sábado Santo and Domingo de Resurrección. The final weekend in Jerez will be equally intense but without the tremendous crowds. I did this before and we should have moved to Jerez this time rather than to Málaga.

AENA is the organization that runs the Spain airports. They were in charge of the service in Madrid, and it does take a long, long time.

Since we have Platinum Pro status on AA, I take advantage of my 3 free checked bags and make my way to the gate only with my handbag. Because T4 Barajas is so huge, for me it does make a huge difference.

We too like the service and food on Iberia’s business class much better, but their Turista Plus is far inferior to AA’s Premium Economy ( just for anyone contemplating a choice between the two in that class).

Thanks so much Karenwoo and studenttobe for your good wishes for my husband. He’s well healed now and having a great time chasing the processions!

Now time to plan your May trip, eks!,

Maribel, I just might look into attending the Semana Santa rituals next year. I think Jerez might be a good option for me.

I'm already thinking of where to visit before Vejer, so I could do just that. I was also musing about maybe taking train to Salamanca and renting car after staying a few days, then MAYBE driving south through Extremadura. I have a lot more confidence about the driving alone now that I've done it twice. (Other idea was to retrace the lechazo itinerary and then head south...will begin threads on this before too long...there are just so many options!!)

On tv in Madrid there was a lot of coverage of the cancellations of some of the processions due to rain, and the Antonio Banderas would not be able to participate. But the photos I saw were so beautiful, I took photos of the photos on the tv!!

From tv in Madrid hotel

From tv report

Did not mean to post this, but it's pretty...my last look at Espana, hasta la proxima!
One year I flew over landscapes that looked exactly like those Edward Burtynsky aerial photos, DRYLAND FARMING, taken in Aragon which I adore:

https://www.caviar20.com/products/edward-burtynsky-dryland-farming-28-aragon-spain-2010






Maribel, also: I suppose I should have checked this before flying (!!!). but does a business class ticket on Iberia allow 3 checked bags?



​​​​​​​Zebec...Are you meaning Zahara de la Frontera, maybe, or Zahara de los Atunes? (I've never been to the first....Andalucia is so large and there is so much to explore!!! That's it, I'm done!


Last edited by ekscrunchy; Mar 29th, 2024 at 08:35 AM.
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Old Mar 29th, 2024, 09:57 AM
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Ms. Eks,
so glad you enjoyed your holiday in The Costa de la Luz. Enjoyed reading your adventures daily and you plan on returning in May? That’s exciting. I’m from Boston, discovered Zahara de los Atunes after visiting El Puerto de Santa Maria. While in El Puerto, some 15 years ago the carekeeper of our apartment rental advised taking a day trip to two of his favorite beaches and he referenced Bolonia and Zahara de los Atunes. We did the day trip and fell in love with Zahara. This September will be our 14th year in a row. We are fortunate to have the apartment rental we have as it completely books June till the end of September. In all our time in Zahara you are right, we have never come across any Americans. Maybe a Brit or two but the majority of visitors are Spanish folks from all other regions of Spain. We have made friends there now and it’s like a second home. Try to get over to Sanlucar on your next visit, I think you would really enjoy it especially as a foodie, which I believe Maribel would concur. We usually spend two weeks in Zahara but come September it will be just one week as well as 5 nights in Sanlucar and 7 nights near Malaga (maybe Estepona and Duquesa.
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Old Mar 29th, 2024, 10:46 AM
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Hi mike,
I would definitely concur about Sanlúcar. and last year eks and I were going to share a taxi to go over for lunch on the Bajo de Guía but I blew it— missed communication. But luckily we finally met in her Jerez hotel at midnight!

Yes, there are 2 Zaharas, both in Cádiz, Zahara de la Frontera (with those scenic viewpoints) one of those perched pueblos blancos, along with Grazalema etc. and Zahara de los Atunes, one of the 4 coastal Cádiz towns where the ancient almadraba-style of bluefin tuna fishing is practiced. Matt Goulding’s book, Grape, Olive, Pig.

Eks, sadly all over the country processions been rained out! We’ll see if we get lucky tonight but rain
is predicted to come in at 10 pm. It was sunny in the late afternoon. Semana Santa comes late next year in April, and it should be very warm. By Feria time, it will be very, very warm in Sevilla (from past experience).

If you do Semana Santa before Vejer that will put you in Vejer after the Sunshine Tour I think and after Semana Santa all the beachside chiringuitos will be open.
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Old Mar 29th, 2024, 11:26 AM
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Bingo!! A huge procession just came by our street, and the trono carrying Virgen stopped right below our balcony! I could almost touch her canopy! Very differnt style from Sevilla but equally stunning. I’ll post the video later on my Instagram.

It’s raining now in Sevilla.
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Old Mar 29th, 2024, 12:34 PM
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For readers of this thread, some translations, as far as I know (English is not my native language)
* Semana Santa (literally Holy Week) = Easter Week.
* Sábado de Pasión = Saturday before Palm Sunday.
* Domingo de Ramos = Palm Sunday.
* Jueves Santo = Holy Thursday aka MaundyThursday.
* Viernes Santo = Holy Friday aka Good Friday aka Great Friday.
* Sábado Santo = Holy Saturday aka Saturday of the Glory.
* Domingo de Resurrección = Easter Sunday.
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