Live from Istanbul & Cappadocia
Mar 27th, 2010, 12:20 AM
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Live from Istanbul & Cappadocia
Good morning from Istanbul!
We arrived about 4:30pm yesterday after a long but relatively uneventful (well, aside from the slightly over-aggressive frisking from security in Munich) trip from Chicago. For this part of our trip, we are staying at the Empress Zoe in Sultanahmet. We are a bit late getting going this morning, but I think we're headed to the Topkapi Palace...and from there??? The sun looks like it might come out, so hopefully it will be a decent day.
We should have Internet for most of our trip, so we'll try to do our trip report "live" if we can. We are spending five nights here, three nights in Göreme, and then a couple of nights back in Istanbul at the end.
In the meantime, here are a few photos from our walk around this area last evening:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p637454351
We arrived about 4:30pm yesterday after a long but relatively uneventful (well, aside from the slightly over-aggressive frisking from security in Munich) trip from Chicago. For this part of our trip, we are staying at the Empress Zoe in Sultanahmet. We are a bit late getting going this morning, but I think we're headed to the Topkapi Palace...and from there??? The sun looks like it might come out, so hopefully it will be a decent day.
We should have Internet for most of our trip, so we'll try to do our trip report "live" if we can. We are spending five nights here, three nights in Göreme, and then a couple of nights back in Istanbul at the end.
In the meantime, here are a few photos from our walk around this area last evening:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p637454351
Mar 27th, 2010, 06:58 AM
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Thanks for the pictures Ms_Go. We will be in Istanbul on May 6-10 (that is if the BA strike is over) so a preview for us! Do send pictures of Sultanahmet and your hotel as well, also any restaurant rec's. Hope I'm not being to pushy here.
Coleen
Coleen
Mar 27th, 2010, 07:38 AM
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Mar 27th, 2010, 08:16 AM
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ms_go,
I love the "on location" posting (although agree with otherchelebi that it might become a chore; it was all I could do to post pictures daily). Your pictures are wonderful! We were there a few months ago and it brings back so many wonderful memories. In fact, I took almost the same one of the young woman/plant holder - loved them in the park. Your hotel is in a great location. Can't wait to hear about your trip and the hotel.
Ellen
I love the "on location" posting (although agree with otherchelebi that it might become a chore; it was all I could do to post pictures daily). Your pictures are wonderful! We were there a few months ago and it brings back so many wonderful memories. In fact, I took almost the same one of the young woman/plant holder - loved them in the park. Your hotel is in a great location. Can't wait to hear about your trip and the hotel.
Ellen
Mar 27th, 2010, 11:04 PM
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Oh, don't worry, we already have taken photos of the hotel--we just may not post them right away.
Just a quick update on yesterday before we head out today. Our first stop was the Topkapi Palace, a short walk uphill from our hotel. Due to our late start, there were already lots of people there, but it was very enjoyable nevertheless. We were particularly impressed with both volume and quality of tiles adorning just about every room of the palace, and also enjoyed the views over the city and the Bosphorus. Next stop was the Hagia Sophia, a truly massive and impressive structure considering its age. A lot of restoration work was recently completed, and the interior (particularly the Byzantine-era mosaics) is awe inspiring in the same sort of way as St. Peter's--but with a different flavor.
It was a very nice day, so we also spent some time outside--either enjoying the sun in the park between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque and on foot down to the Galata Bridge, where an army of fishermen had their lines set for the day. We also visited the spice bazaar--mostly for photos but we did get in a little bargaining. DD is now the proud owner of some fake-Ban aviators (her choice).
We ended the day with a trip to Beyoglu for dinner primarily of mezzes, beer and raki at Boncuk on Nevidzade Street, off the Istiklal Caddesi:
http://www.boncukrestoran.com/
There are tons of these places up and down the street and a huge crowd at each one of them. Quite the scene on a Saturday night.
Last but not least, we stopped for dessert at Saray Muhallebicisi on the Istiklal Caddesi--jammed packed on at least four of its five levels. We ended up sharing a table with three flight attendants from Belgium, giving DD a chance to practice her French. Desserts were good and very interesting--we'll provide some more detail later.
We've quickly figured out how to get around here, including the easy-to-use tram system. Mostly, though, we walked...and walked. With the hills and cobblestones, comfortable shoes are a must!
Some photos (out of order and not captioned):
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p809771219
More later....
Just a quick update on yesterday before we head out today. Our first stop was the Topkapi Palace, a short walk uphill from our hotel. Due to our late start, there were already lots of people there, but it was very enjoyable nevertheless. We were particularly impressed with both volume and quality of tiles adorning just about every room of the palace, and also enjoyed the views over the city and the Bosphorus. Next stop was the Hagia Sophia, a truly massive and impressive structure considering its age. A lot of restoration work was recently completed, and the interior (particularly the Byzantine-era mosaics) is awe inspiring in the same sort of way as St. Peter's--but with a different flavor.
It was a very nice day, so we also spent some time outside--either enjoying the sun in the park between the Hagia Sophia and the Blue Mosque and on foot down to the Galata Bridge, where an army of fishermen had their lines set for the day. We also visited the spice bazaar--mostly for photos but we did get in a little bargaining. DD is now the proud owner of some fake-Ban aviators (her choice).
We ended the day with a trip to Beyoglu for dinner primarily of mezzes, beer and raki at Boncuk on Nevidzade Street, off the Istiklal Caddesi:
http://www.boncukrestoran.com/
There are tons of these places up and down the street and a huge crowd at each one of them. Quite the scene on a Saturday night.
Last but not least, we stopped for dessert at Saray Muhallebicisi on the Istiklal Caddesi--jammed packed on at least four of its five levels. We ended up sharing a table with three flight attendants from Belgium, giving DD a chance to practice her French. Desserts were good and very interesting--we'll provide some more detail later.
We've quickly figured out how to get around here, including the easy-to-use tram system. Mostly, though, we walked...and walked. With the hills and cobblestones, comfortable shoes are a must!
Some photos (out of order and not captioned):
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p809771219
More later....
Mar 28th, 2010, 06:51 AM
#10
Beautiful photos. It sounds like you got the most out of the day. We loved watching the traffic in the busy harbor - and the fishermen who line the bridge are fun to watch, too. Sounds like you haven't been to the Blue Mosque yet; if you liked the tiles at Topkapi, you'll love the Blue Mosque!
Can't wait for the next installment!
Can't wait for the next installment!
Mar 28th, 2010, 08:08 AM
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Thanks, everyone. Sorry about all the typos and misspellings above. We wrote in a hurry over breakfast while trying to get out and enjoy the nice weather.
It was decidedly warmer this morning. We visited the Blue Mosque, the underground cistern and the archaeological museum--all must sees! There is so much to see and experience in the archaeological museum, it's a good idea to think about your visit in advance (the Rick Steves' Istanbul book has a pretty detailed description, along with a map—which was something we couldn’t get at the museum). Highlights included the sarcophagi and relics from the Sidon excavation. The Tiled Kisok is also worth a visit. We planned for a couple of hours. When that was up, and we were ready for lunch, we weren’t close to being done. We asked for, and were granted, the ability to return later in the afternoon to finish up our visit. As predicted, by the time we were done, the clouds were building. We made a beat hasty retreat to our hotel just in advance of the raindrops, where the bar was awaiting—and a very delicious if expensive cocktail called the Zoe (pomegranate juice, lemon juice and vodka).
The rain has now stopped for the time being, so we are heading out for dinner. Back to Beyoglu. Where? Not sure...more on that later.
It was decidedly warmer this morning. We visited the Blue Mosque, the underground cistern and the archaeological museum--all must sees! There is so much to see and experience in the archaeological museum, it's a good idea to think about your visit in advance (the Rick Steves' Istanbul book has a pretty detailed description, along with a map—which was something we couldn’t get at the museum). Highlights included the sarcophagi and relics from the Sidon excavation. The Tiled Kisok is also worth a visit. We planned for a couple of hours. When that was up, and we were ready for lunch, we weren’t close to being done. We asked for, and were granted, the ability to return later in the afternoon to finish up our visit. As predicted, by the time we were done, the clouds were building. We made a beat hasty retreat to our hotel just in advance of the raindrops, where the bar was awaiting—and a very delicious if expensive cocktail called the Zoe (pomegranate juice, lemon juice and vodka).
The rain has now stopped for the time being, so we are heading out for dinner. Back to Beyoglu. Where? Not sure...more on that later.
Mar 28th, 2010, 11:14 AM
#13
Sorry about the rain tonight and tomorrow. tuesday will be mostly sunny, but if you are going to Cappadocia on tuesday, you will be taking the rain with you.
If you have seen enough of the standard touristic areas and museums. Take a bus from kabatas to Rumeli Hisar and/or emirgan. And after investigating the fortress, weather permitting, walk up the steep hill from Rumelihisar with lovely old houses, to the small hill next to the bridge supports where there is a restaurant owned by Yildiz Technical University. Food is not great but view is special. You can just get a cup of coffee. Go back only about 2-300 feet and continue behind the fortress. The lovely narrow road passes along the former mission houses of Robert College, established in 1863 and now the most popular national university, Bosphorus University. You can pass through or around the Alumni Club "Burc" into the old part of the university campus, which is very new England.
This is a good hike, very scenic, historic and totally unknown to tourists.
If you are in istanbul on Wednesday and decide to do this, right me a note on the mail address of my book, and i can meet you sometime around 12 noon, around bebek,or Rumeli Hisar, or the restaurant i mentioned or at the top or seaside main gate of Bosphorus University. I have a class 9-11:45 that day and can buy you lunch at the professors' lounge, the "Kennedy Lodge".
[email protected]
If you have seen enough of the standard touristic areas and museums. Take a bus from kabatas to Rumeli Hisar and/or emirgan. And after investigating the fortress, weather permitting, walk up the steep hill from Rumelihisar with lovely old houses, to the small hill next to the bridge supports where there is a restaurant owned by Yildiz Technical University. Food is not great but view is special. You can just get a cup of coffee. Go back only about 2-300 feet and continue behind the fortress. The lovely narrow road passes along the former mission houses of Robert College, established in 1863 and now the most popular national university, Bosphorus University. You can pass through or around the Alumni Club "Burc" into the old part of the university campus, which is very new England.
This is a good hike, very scenic, historic and totally unknown to tourists.
If you are in istanbul on Wednesday and decide to do this, right me a note on the mail address of my book, and i can meet you sometime around 12 noon, around bebek,or Rumeli Hisar, or the restaurant i mentioned or at the top or seaside main gate of Bosphorus University. I have a class 9-11:45 that day and can buy you lunch at the professors' lounge, the "Kennedy Lodge".
[email protected]
Mar 28th, 2010, 11:36 AM
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otherhelebi, thank you so much for the idea and the offer. We will be flying to Nevsehir on Wednesday morning, so unfortunately, we won't be able to take you up on the offer to meet, but we are making note of your hiking idea. We do love that sort of thing, and maybe we will be able to make use of it on Tuesday or next Sunday when we're back in Istanbul.
As we left off, we went back to Beyoglu. With the weather, we opted for something a little closer to the Tunel--ending up at Gedikli Meyhanesi on Sofyali Sokak, where we had a nice selection of mezes. Afterward, we did what we always end up having to do on vacation: find a bookstore with English language books so that DD could replenish her supply. A little rice pudding along the way, then we dodged the raindrops on the way back to the hotel. Tomorrow, we'll make a quick visit to the Grand Bazaar for some photos and then see what the weather allows...
As we left off, we went back to Beyoglu. With the weather, we opted for something a little closer to the Tunel--ending up at Gedikli Meyhanesi on Sofyali Sokak, where we had a nice selection of mezes. Afterward, we did what we always end up having to do on vacation: find a bookstore with English language books so that DD could replenish her supply. A little rice pudding along the way, then we dodged the raindrops on the way back to the hotel. Tomorrow, we'll make a quick visit to the Grand Bazaar for some photos and then see what the weather allows...
Mar 28th, 2010, 02:20 PM
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ms_go - Loving every bit of your trip report + photos - and am excited to read what's to come! You've given us some great ideas for pics for our upcoming trip.
Hopefully the rain will hold off and you'll have sunny and warm days for the rest of your trip. ENJOY!
Hopefully the rain will hold off and you'll have sunny and warm days for the rest of your trip. ENJOY!
Mar 28th, 2010, 11:21 PM
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Here are some photos from yesterday:
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p875278206
One thing I forgot to add earlier...a small bonus at the Topkapi Palace at the moment is a special exhibit of items from the Kremlin in Moscow.
Best carpet salesman line so far (addressed to mr_go): "Sir, I can tell by the way you walk that you want to buy a carpet."
http://onelittleworld.zenfolio.com/p875278206
One thing I forgot to add earlier...a small bonus at the Topkapi Palace at the moment is a special exhibit of items from the Kremlin in Moscow.
Best carpet salesman line so far (addressed to mr_go): "Sir, I can tell by the way you walk that you want to buy a carpet."
Mar 29th, 2010, 06:14 AM
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Slight revision to the carpet salesman line above: "Sir, I can tell by the way you walk that you're a man I can sell a carpet to."
As noted above, it is a rainy day. But no problem for us. We headed out to see the Grand Bazaar. DD had a few things in mind that she wanted, but this was mostly for the experience and a few photos. We stayed about an hour and a half and felt like we got the flavor of it. Not as cramped or chaotic as Chatuchak market in Bangkok--and fewer live animals for sale. Nevertheless, there's a great variety of items for sale and no shortage of assertive salespeople. Surprisingly, after wandering through the labyrinth of the market, we found our way right back to the entrance from which we entered.
Originally, our plan was to go to the Chora Church/Kariye Muzesi. But, it was approaching lunchtime and we were starting to get hungry. We got a wild idea and headed the other direction...to Asia. We jumped on a ferry to Kadıköy, where we enjoyed walking around the pedestrian streets and through the fish and produce markets. Based on some recommendations on one of the "eating in Istanbul" threads here, we sought out Ciya Sofyali for lunch and quite enjoyed it. Near the front door, they have about 20 different items on display, freshly prepared. A waiter who spoke a bit of English helped us make some selections--including a meatball/yogurt/spinach/garlic soup; lamb with tomato and peppers; chicken and rice pie; pide with spiced lamb and tomato; and a plate of falafel and cooked veggies. We enjoyed each quite a bit; I think this was DD's favorite meal so far. With Efes beer and a Pepsi, the bill was 59L, or about $40--we thought very reasonable.
Most of the guidebooks and online city guides give little mention to the Asian side of the city, but we found this destination to be charming and a great diversion from the tourist crowds. As DD observed, it feels like a whole different city. By the way, we were surprised that the ferry ride was only 1.5L each way and the ride only takes about 20 minutes in each direction. There's no reason not to.
We're still a little full from lunch, but starting to think about a dinner destination. It will probably be a light one tonight.
Tomorrow promises better weather.
As noted above, it is a rainy day. But no problem for us. We headed out to see the Grand Bazaar. DD had a few things in mind that she wanted, but this was mostly for the experience and a few photos. We stayed about an hour and a half and felt like we got the flavor of it. Not as cramped or chaotic as Chatuchak market in Bangkok--and fewer live animals for sale. Nevertheless, there's a great variety of items for sale and no shortage of assertive salespeople. Surprisingly, after wandering through the labyrinth of the market, we found our way right back to the entrance from which we entered.
Originally, our plan was to go to the Chora Church/Kariye Muzesi. But, it was approaching lunchtime and we were starting to get hungry. We got a wild idea and headed the other direction...to Asia. We jumped on a ferry to Kadıköy, where we enjoyed walking around the pedestrian streets and through the fish and produce markets. Based on some recommendations on one of the "eating in Istanbul" threads here, we sought out Ciya Sofyali for lunch and quite enjoyed it. Near the front door, they have about 20 different items on display, freshly prepared. A waiter who spoke a bit of English helped us make some selections--including a meatball/yogurt/spinach/garlic soup; lamb with tomato and peppers; chicken and rice pie; pide with spiced lamb and tomato; and a plate of falafel and cooked veggies. We enjoyed each quite a bit; I think this was DD's favorite meal so far. With Efes beer and a Pepsi, the bill was 59L, or about $40--we thought very reasonable.
Most of the guidebooks and online city guides give little mention to the Asian side of the city, but we found this destination to be charming and a great diversion from the tourist crowds. As DD observed, it feels like a whole different city. By the way, we were surprised that the ferry ride was only 1.5L each way and the ride only takes about 20 minutes in each direction. There's no reason not to.
We're still a little full from lunch, but starting to think about a dinner destination. It will probably be a light one tonight.
Tomorrow promises better weather.
Mar 29th, 2010, 04:21 PM
#20
ms_go, more beautiful pictures. One thing you have that we didn't - flowers! Didn't you just love the tiles in the Blue Mosque?
I enjoyed reading about the Asian side. That's one thing we didn't do, but it will be a priority for our next visit to Turkey.
Ellen
I enjoyed reading about the Asian side. That's one thing we didn't do, but it will be a priority for our next visit to Turkey.
Ellen
