GGinSF

I am planning a 17 day trip to Madrid and Seville, and I was going to spend 5 days in Lisbon (inc a side trip to Sintra). I'm traveling by train between cities, and the bus for day trips (Toledo, Segovia, Jerez, etc). I love old cities, small cafes, and local culture. Lisbon sounds great in the guide books (Eyewitness, etc) but a few posts on this site from 1998 were negative or indifferent. <BR> <BR>Would I be better off visiting Barcelona or other parts of Spain instead? I'm on a relatively low budget and Lisbon seemed inexpensive. Barcelona also seemed to "new" vs. Lisbon. Your input would be helpful.

Monica Richards

I went to Portugal and Spain last year and really liked Lisbon. Don't miss a trip to Sintra--that place was really beautiful. You're also within easy daytrip range of Estoril on the coast too. You can read about my trip at http://www.markandmonica.com/Travel/iberia.htm

Betty Ann

If you love old cities, small cafes and local culture, Lisbon is the city for you!! There is so much to see, do and experience and it is a very walkable city. Also take the trolleys - very cheap and fun. And taxis are not expensive. We weren't on a strict budget but nothing is really expensive in Lisbon unless you want it to be. Can recommend an excellent downtown hotel for about $100 but don't know if that's in your budget. Of two recent trips to Lisbon (fall '98 and fall '99), I can think of nothing negative to say about the city. You will love Lisbon!

Susana

Sorry, but I'd rate Lisbon only "so so." It was rather drab, the Alameda da Liberdade (their "Champs-Elysees, so they say - No Way!) was pretty uninspiring, the food - mostly fish - wasn't to my tasteh but my husband thought their salmon excellent), & we didn't find people particularly helpful (on the Metro we couldn't get over the unhappy looking faces - I think there must be a lot of unemployment). <BR> However, the Pena Palace in Sintra was the high point of the trip - and Lisbon has a lot of wonderful museums & monuments. <BR> Good luck. <BR> Susan

Kristi

I'd give the edge to Barcelona; it's one of my favorite cities in Europe and so different from the other cities you've mentioned. It's true that the architecture is "newer" in Barcelona, Gaudi's influence is everywhere, but it is different than any other style you will see in Spain. And there's also a wonderful old cathedral and flower market and squares and narrow streets. Barcelona seemed to be the more vibrant of the two cities, lots of people out at all times of the day, at least in the Las Ramblas area. And I wasn't blown away by the food in Lisbon, the dishes are very basic, but I loved the food in Barcelona. You'll probably pay a bit more for the same quality hotel in Barcelona but the difference isn't that much. <BR> <BR>On the other hand, you might want to try a different country for a few days, 17 days of paella and tapas might be a bit much. Lisbon is a nice city to visit, but I didn't consider it particularly charming. Sintra is definitely worth a day's visit and I was also impressed by Quelez which is on the same train line as Sintra. Belem is also great, I loved the coach museum.

Bets

I was in Lisbon about six weeks ago, and I have to say I'd LOVE to return. We combined our trip to Lisbon with a visit to Seville, and there was a real difference between the areas--the contrasts enriched our trip, definately. <BR> <BR>I'm sorry Susana found the people unhelpful or sad; I couldn't get over how charming and accommodating Lisboetas (is that right?) were. The architecture, cuisine, and scenery are wonderful and unique, certainly not like the Bennetton-McDonalds-CocaCola-is-this-Paris-or-is-this-Peoria homogenization of so many other European cities. I really enjoyed Lisbon for the miradors, the sidewalk cafes, the castle St. George (probably my favorite sight), the Port Wine Institute, Belem (and those fab custard tarts), the museums, and the excellent public transportation. All this, and a bargain to boot. <BR> <BR>GGinSF, if you're at all homesick by this point in your trip, you'll feel at home in Lisbon: another Golden Gate Bridge (same architects as yours, I think), plenty of hills, cable cars (almost; try the old streetcar that goes up to the Alfama), Muni (ok, so what's to miss, but the new tram cars in Lisbon are bigger, faster, and have that same nice hum), and good seafood. <BR> <BR>Add to that the tiled buildings, cafe culture, gorgeous climate, impressive architecture, and (I found) friendly inhabitants, and you'll probably be glad you left home. <BR> <BR>Lisbon is great. I just wish they'd eat dinner a little earlier.

michele

Barcelona, hands down. I visited Lisbon several years ago and although I enjoyed it, it in no way compares to the wealth of museums, the variety of architecture, and the level of sophistication you'll find in Barcelona. <BR>Barcelona has everything from the Gothic Barrio, to a large musuem of contemporary art, to a pre-fab Olympic village. A most impressive city. <BR> <BR>(loved Sintra, though) <BR> <BR>Michele

jwagner

I was rather unimpressed with Lisbon and I loved Barcelona. There are plenty of great sites near Madrid that I prefer (including Toledo, Granada, Cordoba). Sintra is beautiful and I found Portugal countryside to be grand.

GGinSF

Thanks for the input. I think the best solution will be to win the lottery, quit my job, and travel all through Europe for a year! <BR> <BR>Any more suggestions from others (on where to visit, not on what Lotto numbers to pick)?

pesche

Lisbon has a lot of charm. Barcalona is more cosmo.

Mrs. G

Barcelona is a must. Madrid could be skipped. Be sure and see Park Guell in Barcelona and the Gothic Quarter. Stay as close to Las Ramblas as possible (Park Royal was where we stayed). Toledo and Seville were wonderful. Regarding Lisbon: Sintra was beautiful and another place to see is Obidos (a medina or walled city)

alex

Hi - I was in Lisbon a couple of years ago (just after Expo 98) and loved it. Certainly it isn't as touristy and does not have as many "sights" as other cities, such as Barcelona but it has lots of life and a sort of unkempt charm. The Eyewitness guide is good - I thought people were friendly and the fish restaurants excellent and good value. Just one word of warning is to check the "cover" charge for bread, butter - most places were OK but the OTT charges (half the price of the meal) at one Belem restaurant left a bad taste! The St George Castle area is good for a wander, also Belem and its monastery and the old Expo area for something new. Its easy to walk around but the trams take the strain out of the hills. Sintra is good, esp the old Royal Palace, Castle (high on the hill) and fantastic Pena Palace. Also the coast - Estoril/Cascais and the point which is the furthest westerly point on the European mainland are excellent. Alex

mary

I haven't been to Barcelona, but I can tell you that I loved Lisbon. It's funky in the best way. A mix of atmospheres, from one city section to another, with friendly people (I'm very surprised another poster found the people there unfriendly). <BR> <BR>We had a great hotel, the Albergaria Senhora do Monte, in a residential neighborhood; our room looked out over St. George's castle and the Tejo River beyond, and at especially at night the view was stupendous. Very romantic. Not far from there was a wonderful restaurant called Au Piteu. It's not the kind of place you bump into tourists, so the waiters didn't know much English, but they were very helpful nonetheless. We loved that place, but found other restaurants fine too. <BR> <BR>Lisbon is soulful. It is its own creature. If you want everything totally safe and totally clean and totally beautiful, it won't be for you. If you like earthy places, with interesting turns and twists, then you'll probably like Lisbon. <BR> <BR>And Sintra is well worth the trip. It's gorgeous. If you can, stop at Cascais too, which is not far from Sintra, on the coast. <BR> <BR>Bets: are you still out there? Have they replaced ALL the old trams in Lisbon? Don't say it's so!!! I especially loved the 28.

Bets

Hey Mary, <BR> <BR>Nope, the 28 line is still run with those wonderful wooden tram cars. The ride is thrilling up the hill--speedy, twisty, like Mr. Toad's wild ride. Another great thing about that line (the couple of times I rode it, anyway) was that it isn't just a tourist thing, like the cable cars in SF--mothers and children, grandmothers with shopping bags, people on their way to work all get to use this delightful system everyday. I had pictured it crammed with dopey tourists wearing straw hats and sunglasses (like me) or clutching Rick Steves guidebooks and eyeing the Natives with suspicion (not like me). <BR>The sleek, modern tram cars we took went out to Belem and to the art museum near the embassies. Lisbon's public transportation system is so efficient (and so reasonable, especially if you buy the Lisboa card, which gets you into tons of museums as well). Speaking as a resident of an area which shuns any form of public transportation in favor of Personal Automobiles For All, I was impressed and delighted with Lisbon's system.

John

Barcelona is gaudy. Get it? Gaudi? Bwahahaha.

mary

Bets: Whew! Thanks for the answer. It was so depressing to think the old 28 had been replaced. Isn't it just great? We used that line all the time, to and from our hotel in the Gracias neighborhood. Happy future travels, wherever you go! I hope if GGinSF (the poster) goes to Lisbon, she likes it as much as we did.

GGinSF

Thanks again to everyone for their input. I have decided to stick with Lisbon and save Barcelona for another trip. I hadn't read about Obidos until Mrs. G metioned it. I may combine that city with a visit to Alcobaca as a second day trip (the first being Sintra/Quelez and the surrounding area). <BR> <BR>The change of pace from Spain to Portugal played a part in my decision, as well as the chance to do interesting day trips to the places I mentioned above. <BR> <BR>I'll be eating fancier meals in Seville and Madrid, and simple fare with fresh fish sounds fine with me. The #28 sounds like fun - Mr Toad's was one of my favorite rides at Disneyland (I can't believe it's not there anymore!). I report back after my trip (only four more weeks to go...yea!!!!).

SharonM

I lived in Lisbon a couple years ago, and although I enjoyed it, it is not one of my most favorite places...The Alfama/Castle area is very charming! (if you go to a fado restaurant, just remember not to talk while they sing!!! hahaha) As many have mentioned, Sintra is spectacular!!! A wonderful drive is to Sintra then cut over to the beach and back to lisbon via Cais Cais and Estoril. I found I prefered the countryside to the city of Lisbon. <BR>Glad you're going to Seville!!! Now THAT's one of my favorite places!!! <BR>Have fun!

Dinah

GG in SF -- did you ever take this trip? How did it go? You received some pretty detailed replies on this thread, and I'd be interested to know how/if they helped. <BR> <BR>I'm thinking of going to Portugal, but I'm wondering if Lisbon would be nice or not.

clairobscur

Ginah, <BR> <BR>You already read all this detailed responses about Lisbon, but I feel the need to join her advocates. <BR>This town is suprisingly diverse (each part of the town has a very peculiar athmosphere and architecture). No wonderful monuments but a lot of charm. <BR>Clearly one of my prefered cities.