Lingering in the Loire Valley
Sep 3rd, 2010, 11:35 PM
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Lingering in the Loire Valley
We have just returned home after a lovely 4 week sojourn in the Loire Valley. Thanks to others on this forum we had an extensive list of places to visit. Below are some of our favourites, and some little gems we happened upon along the way.
In August the fields of Sunflowers are quite magical! By the beginning of September they had all died back, but even then the yellow/green of the leaves were most colourful.
Driving on the northern side of the Loire River gave us the best wine-growing scenery; to the south there are still some wineries, but more forest and crop growing areas. Both were very enjoyable – no matter where our end destination for the day was, we had interesting scenery on the way.
We quickly learned that it is best to arrive early at each chateau – the crowds really start to build up by 11am.
Best Chateaux:
Chateau d’Azay leRideau Lovely smaller chateau set in the middle of a pretty village with plenty of restaurant & café options. At the edge of the town, the bridge across the Indre River gives lovely views and is beautifully decorated with flower baskets.
Chateau Chenonceau we thought this the most beautiful chateau in the region. It has lovely parks and grounds and the inside is furnished with different décor from various periods of its history. The gallery that extends across the water gives this chateau a great personality.
Chateau de Chaumont-sur-Loire we visited during the evening, when the interior is lit with hundreds of candles. A most spectacular way to see the interior. Extensive gardens which we didn’t get to see at night.
Chateau du Clos Luce This is the chateau where Leonardo Da Vinci spent the last years of his life. The interior is decorated with his illustrations and sayings, and there are working models of many of his inventions. The grounds are very extensive; they have been left as they would have been in his time, and as you walk through there are stopping points where you can listen to recordings of his teachings, and some of his drawings, paintings and models are on display throughout the grounds. Most unlike any other chateaux that we saw.
Chateau d’Usse is the chateau which inspired the story of Sleeping Beauty and certainly has the appearance of a fairy tale castle. We didn’t go inside, but did eat a delicious lunch in the little café across the road. Best views of the castle are from the other side of the river.
Chateau de Villandry we chose to only visit the gardens – they are so extensive that it took a couple of hours to cover everything. Beautifully maintained, colourful and enjoyable!
Chateau Royal de Chambord is astoundingly elaborate from the outside – you can go up to the rooftop and admire the myriad of spires and turrets up close. The interior features a double helix staircase, said to have been designed by DaVinci. Also some interesting art works on display in many of the rooms of the chateau.
Fortresse Royale de Chinon – Fortunately we discovered the outdoor elevator access located at the back of the town – otherwise it is a long and steep climb up to the chateau. There are incredible views of the village below, and a stroll down the access road takes you past some lovely buildings.
Favourite Villages and Towns:
Visit villages any day except Sunday and Monday – on these days most if not all shops are closed, so the atmosphere is completely lacking.
Blois make your way up to the top of the town, to the square outside the chateau. The House of Magic (at the opposite end of the square) has an interesting display on the hour that’s worth watching, particularly if you have children with you.
Langeais an interesting village with the Chateau situated right in the centre of town.
Loches is a pretty village to stroll through. The botanical gardens on the opposite side of the river from the old town have a beautiful summer display of flowers. There’s an interesting Troglodite cave Carriere de Vignemont that’s well worth a visit. You are given an information booklet (available in many languages) that takes you on a self-guided tour through the caves. As well as learning their history, there are a number of most unusual sound sculptures that have been created especially for these caves. The drive from Sache along the Indre River is an enjoyable way to reach this town.
Richlieu This town dates back to 1600s, with many impressive buildings located around the large central town square. Take a stroll through the park-like grounds of the Cardinal Richlieu Chateau; the main buildings are long gone, but the grounds are very extensive and enjoyable.
Saumur has the largest weekend markets I’ve ever seen – they extend over several streets beside the river and through the main area of the town.
Tours has an old town walk available from the visitor centre opposite the railway station. There are flower markets every Wednesday and Saturday on the main Boulevarde. The little café below Pont Wilson has regular entertainment throughout summer.
Vendome is a picturesque little 4 flower town with a medieval town gate and a garden that displays the day and date outside the Town Hall.
Hope you find this information useful, happy travels, Di
In August the fields of Sunflowers are quite magical! By the beginning of September they had all died back, but even then the yellow/green of the leaves were most colourful.
Driving on the northern side of the Loire River gave us the best wine-growing scenery; to the south there are still some wineries, but more forest and crop growing areas. Both were very enjoyable – no matter where our end destination for the day was, we had interesting scenery on the way.
We quickly learned that it is best to arrive early at each chateau – the crowds really start to build up by 11am.
Best Chateaux:
Chateau d’Azay leRideau Lovely smaller chateau set in the middle of a pretty village with plenty of restaurant & café options. At the edge of the town, the bridge across the Indre River gives lovely views and is beautifully decorated with flower baskets.
Chateau Chenonceau we thought this the most beautiful chateau in the region. It has lovely parks and grounds and the inside is furnished with different décor from various periods of its history. The gallery that extends across the water gives this chateau a great personality.
Chateau de Chaumont-sur-Loire we visited during the evening, when the interior is lit with hundreds of candles. A most spectacular way to see the interior. Extensive gardens which we didn’t get to see at night.
Chateau du Clos Luce This is the chateau where Leonardo Da Vinci spent the last years of his life. The interior is decorated with his illustrations and sayings, and there are working models of many of his inventions. The grounds are very extensive; they have been left as they would have been in his time, and as you walk through there are stopping points where you can listen to recordings of his teachings, and some of his drawings, paintings and models are on display throughout the grounds. Most unlike any other chateaux that we saw.
Chateau d’Usse is the chateau which inspired the story of Sleeping Beauty and certainly has the appearance of a fairy tale castle. We didn’t go inside, but did eat a delicious lunch in the little café across the road. Best views of the castle are from the other side of the river.
Chateau de Villandry we chose to only visit the gardens – they are so extensive that it took a couple of hours to cover everything. Beautifully maintained, colourful and enjoyable!
Chateau Royal de Chambord is astoundingly elaborate from the outside – you can go up to the rooftop and admire the myriad of spires and turrets up close. The interior features a double helix staircase, said to have been designed by DaVinci. Also some interesting art works on display in many of the rooms of the chateau.
Fortresse Royale de Chinon – Fortunately we discovered the outdoor elevator access located at the back of the town – otherwise it is a long and steep climb up to the chateau. There are incredible views of the village below, and a stroll down the access road takes you past some lovely buildings.
Favourite Villages and Towns:
Visit villages any day except Sunday and Monday – on these days most if not all shops are closed, so the atmosphere is completely lacking.
Blois make your way up to the top of the town, to the square outside the chateau. The House of Magic (at the opposite end of the square) has an interesting display on the hour that’s worth watching, particularly if you have children with you.
Langeais an interesting village with the Chateau situated right in the centre of town.
Loches is a pretty village to stroll through. The botanical gardens on the opposite side of the river from the old town have a beautiful summer display of flowers. There’s an interesting Troglodite cave Carriere de Vignemont that’s well worth a visit. You are given an information booklet (available in many languages) that takes you on a self-guided tour through the caves. As well as learning their history, there are a number of most unusual sound sculptures that have been created especially for these caves. The drive from Sache along the Indre River is an enjoyable way to reach this town.
Richlieu This town dates back to 1600s, with many impressive buildings located around the large central town square. Take a stroll through the park-like grounds of the Cardinal Richlieu Chateau; the main buildings are long gone, but the grounds are very extensive and enjoyable.
Saumur has the largest weekend markets I’ve ever seen – they extend over several streets beside the river and through the main area of the town.
Tours has an old town walk available from the visitor centre opposite the railway station. There are flower markets every Wednesday and Saturday on the main Boulevarde. The little café below Pont Wilson has regular entertainment throughout summer.
Vendome is a picturesque little 4 flower town with a medieval town gate and a garden that displays the day and date outside the Town Hall.
Hope you find this information useful, happy travels, Di
Sep 4th, 2010, 12:01 AM
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Hi klondike
We do home exchanges, so were based in a lovely house just outside the village of Savonnieres, not far from Tours. For us it's an ideal way to travel, although this time we could have done without the adventurous little French Hen left in our care . . . but that's another story!
We did discover the Logis hotels group, and used these whenever we took short stays away - have already raved about this on an earlier post, and will report on the Atlantic coast places we visited in a future post.
We tend to eat in casual restaurants and cafes for lunch, then have dinner at 'home'. For me, all meals in France are memorable. Generally the food is so fresh and well cooked that I can eat almost anything - for someone with my food sensitivities, this in itself is sheer luxury. Unfortunately the diary keeper (DH) didn't make note of any details.
We became 'regulars' at our local Patisserie, and enjoyed our stumbling French conversations with staff there, as well as trying out most of their pastries. Di
We do home exchanges, so were based in a lovely house just outside the village of Savonnieres, not far from Tours. For us it's an ideal way to travel, although this time we could have done without the adventurous little French Hen left in our care . . . but that's another story!
We did discover the Logis hotels group, and used these whenever we took short stays away - have already raved about this on an earlier post, and will report on the Atlantic coast places we visited in a future post.
We tend to eat in casual restaurants and cafes for lunch, then have dinner at 'home'. For me, all meals in France are memorable. Generally the food is so fresh and well cooked that I can eat almost anything - for someone with my food sensitivities, this in itself is sheer luxury. Unfortunately the diary keeper (DH) didn't make note of any details.
We became 'regulars' at our local Patisserie, and enjoyed our stumbling French conversations with staff there, as well as trying out most of their pastries. Di
Sep 4th, 2010, 05:28 AM
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Hello di2315 
Thank you for your posting. To have 4 weeks in the Loire -- well, what a treat for you!!
We are due to arrive for 9 days begnning mid-September, so your report is very timely. We've never visited in the fall, only spring and summer, so it will be a new experience. Sad, tho, to read about the fields of sunflowers.
Do you happen to recall the location of the elevator up to Chinon?
Thank you for your posting. To have 4 weeks in the Loire -- well, what a treat for you!!
We are due to arrive for 9 days begnning mid-September, so your report is very timely. We've never visited in the fall, only spring and summer, so it will be a new experience. Sad, tho, to read about the fields of sunflowers.
Do you happen to recall the location of the elevator up to Chinon?
Sep 4th, 2010, 06:28 AM
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Isn't the route along the Indre river from Sache to Loches a treat? Every bridge is full of flowers in the summer. I think it's also a route of watermills. We always look for those on rivers.
Loches has a very lively Saturday market (and I think also on Wed.)
Azay le Rideau is my fave too, and Chenonceau is my husband's.
A very nice summing up of your trip. Let's hear about the hen!
Loches has a very lively Saturday market (and I think also on Wed.)
Azay le Rideau is my fave too, and Chenonceau is my husband's.
A very nice summing up of your trip. Let's hear about the hen!
Sep 4th, 2010, 06:58 AM
#7
Great read! After 2 trips to the Loire, you hit a few places we missed----guess we'll have to return.
Chinon---I don't remember the exact location of the elevator, but it can't be too hard to find. Actually we enjoyed the walk up for the views. One of our best dinners in Chinon was at "Chapeau Rouge" sitting outside under the trees on a warm evening, very memorable. It's right in the middle of town on the square.
Chinon---I don't remember the exact location of the elevator, but it can't be too hard to find. Actually we enjoyed the walk up for the views. One of our best dinners in Chinon was at "Chapeau Rouge" sitting outside under the trees on a warm evening, very memorable. It's right in the middle of town on the square.
Sep 4th, 2010, 10:41 AM
#9
hi di,
we too were in the Loire area this year and went to Chinon for the first time [no idea whwy we hadn't been before!] and had a lovely lunch in the main square under the trees.
swisshiker - I don't recall its name, but the escalator was well signposted and was just in the corner of the square where we ate. it would be hard to miss. unfortunately the chateau was closed but we had a very pleasant wander along the streets below it.
we too were in the Loire area this year and went to Chinon for the first time [no idea whwy we hadn't been before!] and had a lovely lunch in the main square under the trees.
swisshiker - I don't recall its name, but the escalator was well signposted and was just in the corner of the square where we ate. it would be hard to miss. unfortunately the chateau was closed but we had a very pleasant wander along the streets below it.
Sep 4th, 2010, 11:50 AM
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Many years ago I too lingered in the Loire Valley, I stayed about one year. Having visited all of these locations, many countless times, I agree with your overall assessments. My favorite châteaux (admittedly subjective) are those which I enjoying seeing over and over again:
East of Tours -
Chambord - compare the genius of Leonardo's staircase (a change to original design of the château) with the traditional style found at Chenonceau.
Cheverny - mostly for the newly designed grounds, the furnished interior, and its close proximity to Chambord. Interesting connection to Hervé's Adventures of Tintin.
Chenonceau
West of Tours -
Azay le Rideau
Villandry - mostly for the grounds
Most over-rated:
Ussé - best viewed from the outside, the interior is unremarkable, a drive by is sufficient.
Amboise - 80% destroyed during the Revolution, is best viewed from across the Loire River. Visit here only if you have plenty of time otherwise.
Le Clos Lucé - (a slight disagreement here). While it is an interesting sell, the idea that Leonardo once lived here, there is absolutely nothing of his that remains. To me this might be somewhat analogous to the dubious "Washington slept here" claims to fame.
Most underrated:
Blois - often overlooked and should not be.
Chaumont - interesting contrast between here and Chenonceau with intriguing historical tie-ins. I always enjoy the garden competition on the grounds.
Tours - wonderful museums, fascinating cathedral, the restaurants along rue Colbert, and the not to be missed Place Plumereau or Old Tours. Outskirts are indeed depressing however.
I further agree that this area needs time to be properly enjoyed. The Loire Valley is a delightful area which can easily fill a four week vacation.
East of Tours -
Chambord - compare the genius of Leonardo's staircase (a change to original design of the château) with the traditional style found at Chenonceau.
Cheverny - mostly for the newly designed grounds, the furnished interior, and its close proximity to Chambord. Interesting connection to Hervé's Adventures of Tintin.
Chenonceau
West of Tours -
Azay le Rideau
Villandry - mostly for the grounds
Most over-rated:
Ussé - best viewed from the outside, the interior is unremarkable, a drive by is sufficient.
Amboise - 80% destroyed during the Revolution, is best viewed from across the Loire River. Visit here only if you have plenty of time otherwise.
Le Clos Lucé - (a slight disagreement here). While it is an interesting sell, the idea that Leonardo once lived here, there is absolutely nothing of his that remains. To me this might be somewhat analogous to the dubious "Washington slept here" claims to fame.
Most underrated:
Blois - often overlooked and should not be.
Chaumont - interesting contrast between here and Chenonceau with intriguing historical tie-ins. I always enjoy the garden competition on the grounds.
Tours - wonderful museums, fascinating cathedral, the restaurants along rue Colbert, and the not to be missed Place Plumereau or Old Tours. Outskirts are indeed depressing however.
I further agree that this area needs time to be properly enjoyed. The Loire Valley is a delightful area which can easily fill a four week vacation.
Sep 4th, 2010, 12:05 PM
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Thanks, annhig, for the escalator info. We'll be on the lookout. It will also be our first visit to Chinon, even though it will be our fourth trip to the Loire.
Awhile back, someone here (sorry, screen name escapes me) posted here about watching "The Lion in Winter" with Peter O'Toole and Katharine Hepburn. Really enjoyable, and now I just NEED to go to Chinon!
Enjoying all these first-hand insights. Very helpful!
Awhile back, someone here (sorry, screen name escapes me) posted here about watching "The Lion in Winter" with Peter O'Toole and Katharine Hepburn. Really enjoyable, and now I just NEED to go to Chinon!
Enjoying all these first-hand insights. Very helpful!
Sep 4th, 2010, 12:32 PM
#12
hi, S/H,
I saw that reference too when I was trying [and failing] to find an address for the bottom of the escalator. all I can say is that if you park on the riverside, [where we paid for 2 hours only to find that it was free on a sunday!] and walk up into the town, sooner of later you will hit a square about 200 yds away from the river where there are about 4-5 cafes/restaurants around the outside of the square with tables under the trees. also the market was there on sunday morning [packed up about 2pm].
we too DIDN'T go into chateau d'usse [at €15 each, it would have been €60 for entry which was rather beyond us], but took pics from the other side of the river. AND we just paid for entry to the gardens at Villandry - we'd been before and the chateau is not stellar inside, IMHO. but the gardens were as good as ever and as well as the famous potager, they now have an "english" ie more relaxed garden which we loved.
I saw that reference too when I was trying [and failing] to find an address for the bottom of the escalator. all I can say is that if you park on the riverside, [where we paid for 2 hours only to find that it was free on a sunday!] and walk up into the town, sooner of later you will hit a square about 200 yds away from the river where there are about 4-5 cafes/restaurants around the outside of the square with tables under the trees. also the market was there on sunday morning [packed up about 2pm].
we too DIDN'T go into chateau d'usse [at €15 each, it would have been €60 for entry which was rather beyond us], but took pics from the other side of the river. AND we just paid for entry to the gardens at Villandry - we'd been before and the chateau is not stellar inside, IMHO. but the gardens were as good as ever and as well as the famous potager, they now have an "english" ie more relaxed garden which we loved.
Sep 4th, 2010, 01:30 PM
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I spent 2 weeks in the Loire a few years ago, and loved it. I divided my nights between Amboise, Chinon, and Saumur. I was solo, and didn't want to spend time backtracking on the drives, so that worked out perfectly for me. That was my first "driving" vacation in France, and worked out beautifully, as driving is quite easy in the Loire Valley.
I thought Chenonceau was the most beautiful chateau, but there is something to be said for all. Chambord left me cold, but is worth seeing for the staircase and wandering around the beautiful rooftops. To me, there was something special about Amboise, probably because of all the history associated with it. And I loved Chinon, even though it's mostly in ruins. Also, the Abbey de Fontevraud was fascinating to me - I love French history (and anything to do with Eleanor of Aquitaine). I'd love to go back to the Loire and see everything again!
I thought Chenonceau was the most beautiful chateau, but there is something to be said for all. Chambord left me cold, but is worth seeing for the staircase and wandering around the beautiful rooftops. To me, there was something special about Amboise, probably because of all the history associated with it. And I loved Chinon, even though it's mostly in ruins. Also, the Abbey de Fontevraud was fascinating to me - I love French history (and anything to do with Eleanor of Aquitaine). I'd love to go back to the Loire and see everything again!
Sep 4th, 2010, 07:23 PM
#14
Ditto on the Abbey de Fontevraud---I had forgot about that and it was one of our best days.
Also dinner at "Manoir Restigne"just west of Chinon. It's a place in the middle of nowhere that will "wow your socks off"---quite unexpected. The owners of our Gite recommended it. I'm sure the rooms were well above our limit, but the restaurant was something to behold. It was probably about 130 euros for what we ordered, but well worth the experience. If ever in the area agin, we will return.
Also dinner at "Manoir Restigne"just west of Chinon. It's a place in the middle of nowhere that will "wow your socks off"---quite unexpected. The owners of our Gite recommended it. I'm sure the rooms were well above our limit, but the restaurant was something to behold. It was probably about 130 euros for what we ordered, but well worth the experience. If ever in the area agin, we will return.
Sep 5th, 2010, 01:52 PM
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I find it interesting that you had no problem spending 4 weeks in the Loire while there have been responses to posts in the past that think more than a couple of days is too much.
For the record, I have spent 9 days in the Loire on a trip in the past and would have loved to spend 4 weeks!
For the record, I have spent 9 days in the Loire on a trip in the past and would have loved to spend 4 weeks!
Sep 5th, 2010, 08:04 PM
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Yes,bigtyke, we love to linger longer in fewer places, rather than zapping along and just skimming the surface of an area.
I guess that's the difference between ticking off iconic sights, and what I've seen referred to as 'thumbprint' travel.
I suppose also it's different if you have a limited time and want to cover as much territory as possible - we love the luxury of thinking that there will always be the next trip . . . it's just a matter of where! Di
I guess that's the difference between ticking off iconic sights, and what I've seen referred to as 'thumbprint' travel.
I suppose also it's different if you have a limited time and want to cover as much territory as possible - we love the luxury of thinking that there will always be the next trip . . . it's just a matter of where! Di
