Ligurian Coast..eating in and around SML/Rapallo/Camogli/CT
Jul 8th, 2008, 02:37 AM
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Ligurian Coast..eating in and around SML/Rapallo/Camogli/CT
There is currently a lively discussion, with much great information, on food and restaurants in this region. I thought I would put the threads under one heading so we can continue. Here is what has already been discussed; there are quite a few interesting eating spots mentioned within:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35141463
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35130024
Among the "must" places for me, so far, are U Giancu outside Rapallo and Nonna Nina outside Camogli, but here are many others mentioned including what sounds like a wonderful focaccia bakery in Camogli:
Please add your thoughts and recommendations here!
Many thanks!
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35141463
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threads...p;tid=35130024
Among the "must" places for me, so far, are U Giancu outside Rapallo and Nonna Nina outside Camogli, but here are many others mentioned including what sounds like a wonderful focaccia bakery in Camogli:
Please add your thoughts and recommendations here!
Many thanks!
Jul 8th, 2008, 03:52 AM
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Also: Does anyone have any experience with these SlowFood places in the Cinque Terre towns:
Cantina de Mananan in Corniglia
Il Ciliegio, hillside above Monterosso (Beo)
Ripa del Sole in Riomaggiore
Cantina de Mananan in Corniglia
Il Ciliegio, hillside above Monterosso (Beo)
Ripa del Sole in Riomaggiore
Jul 8th, 2008, 04:53 AM
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ekscrunchy, I have the Osterie and Locande d'Italia guide from Slow Food published in 2006 and it has reviews on the latter two. I do not have personal experience at either place but I'd be happy to paraphrase from the reviews for you if you haven't already read them. Just let me know.
Also using this post to test out my recollection of how to bold headings. I'm working on my report from our Spain trip and didn't want to post separately to check out how this works. hope you won't mind the slight intrusion on your thread
<b>bold</b>
Also using this post to test out my recollection of how to bold headings. I'm working on my report from our Spain trip and didn't want to post separately to check out how this works. hope you won't mind the slight intrusion on your thread
<b>bold</b>
Jul 8th, 2008, 06:27 AM
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Good job, Julie!
Many thanks for your offer. I do own the SlowFood 2006 guide and noticed those CT recommendations. I would like to have lunch in the area one day..just wondered if there was one place that stood out as "better" than the others.
Many thanks for all of your help! Your Spain trip truly sounds fantastic and I am enjoying the report!
Many thanks for your offer. I do own the SlowFood 2006 guide and noticed those CT recommendations. I would like to have lunch in the area one day..just wondered if there was one place that stood out as "better" than the others.
Many thanks for all of your help! Your Spain trip truly sounds fantastic and I am enjoying the report!
Jul 8th, 2008, 10:00 AM
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Websites for a few places mentioned above, and in linked posts:
http://www.ugiancu.it/cms/
http://www.nonnanina.it/eng/san_rocc...pg=5&ln=it
http://www.labrinca.it/inglese/storia.php
http://www.monterossonet.com/ita/str...egio/index.htm
http://www.ugiancu.it/cms/
http://www.nonnanina.it/eng/san_rocc...pg=5&ln=it
http://www.labrinca.it/inglese/storia.php
http://www.monterossonet.com/ita/str...egio/index.htm
Jul 8th, 2008, 10:23 AM
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We split the Cinque Terre hikes into two days. Eash day when we fnished our hike our reward was eating at Gambero Rosso in Vernazza where local dishes are featured, such as stuffed mussels.
The meals here are excellent and among our fondest memories of that trip.
The meals here are excellent and among our fondest memories of that trip.
Jul 8th, 2008, 11:01 AM
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One thing I want to add to this thread:
I hike all the time in Liguria's hills, and there are 3 rules I observe:
Rule No #1: No lunchtime drinking before hiking.
Alcohol can really affect your balance and judgment, and although hiking in Liguria is increasingly recommended as a tourist "must-do" for everybody, many of these trains have patches that are extremely narrow and vertiginous, and without warning can become quite challenging to navigate. People fail to turn back when they should, or attempt narrow crossings they shouldn't -- or simply lose their balance. Sad to say, living in Liguria I hear stories (including one just last night) of tourists who have suffered serious head injuries hiking in Cinque Terre. Don't hike unless you know where you are going and are willing to turn back if the trail becomes too challenging.
Rule #2: Don't hike without a sun hat and water.
The Ligurian sun is very fierce, and I avoid hiking on warm afternoons in general. But even in the morning, I always protect my head, and I always carry water. The sun is so hot, even on mild days, it can cause dizziness or sunstroke, and on hot days, severe dehyrations.
Rule #3: Never hike right after the rain.
The goat paths of Liguria, and in particular Cinque Terre, can become quite slick after just a morning rain, and especially after a few days' rain. In Cinque Terre, so many people tromp the paths, it really can get very slippery. So unless you are an experienced hiker wearing appropriate hiking shoes with grips, don't walk the very steep trails of Ligurian when wet -- and believe, they're all steep!
I hike all the time in Liguria's hills, and there are 3 rules I observe:
Rule No #1: No lunchtime drinking before hiking.
Alcohol can really affect your balance and judgment, and although hiking in Liguria is increasingly recommended as a tourist "must-do" for everybody, many of these trains have patches that are extremely narrow and vertiginous, and without warning can become quite challenging to navigate. People fail to turn back when they should, or attempt narrow crossings they shouldn't -- or simply lose their balance. Sad to say, living in Liguria I hear stories (including one just last night) of tourists who have suffered serious head injuries hiking in Cinque Terre. Don't hike unless you know where you are going and are willing to turn back if the trail becomes too challenging.
Rule #2: Don't hike without a sun hat and water.
The Ligurian sun is very fierce, and I avoid hiking on warm afternoons in general. But even in the morning, I always protect my head, and I always carry water. The sun is so hot, even on mild days, it can cause dizziness or sunstroke, and on hot days, severe dehyrations.
Rule #3: Never hike right after the rain.
The goat paths of Liguria, and in particular Cinque Terre, can become quite slick after just a morning rain, and especially after a few days' rain. In Cinque Terre, so many people tromp the paths, it really can get very slippery. So unless you are an experienced hiker wearing appropriate hiking shoes with grips, don't walk the very steep trails of Ligurian when wet -- and believe, they're all steep!
Jul 9th, 2008, 03:32 AM
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Zeppole, thanks for the excellent tips. And to others who posted, thank you as well. Please keep the ideas coming!
To anyone interested in this subject, I recommend Fred Plotkin's book on Liguria and its cuisine, "Recipes from Paradise: Life and Food on the Italian Riviera."
To anyone interested in this subject, I recommend Fred Plotkin's book on Liguria and its cuisine, "Recipes from Paradise: Life and Food on the Italian Riviera."
Aug 14th, 2008, 03:44 AM
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Now that the time is coming close, I am trying to nail down ideas for three dinners in Camogli. Places that I have in my notes include these and I would like very much to read comments about them, or any I have missed. The #1 factor is great, local food.
Nonna Nina (this appears to be a must; better to eat outside or in?)
Vento Ariel
Rosa (is this very formal?)
Da Paolo
Hostaria del Pesce
La Camogliese (hotel restaurant)
Casmona (hotel restaurant)
In case my friends insist, which of these places have views of the sea?
Nonna Nina (this appears to be a must; better to eat outside or in?)
Vento Ariel
Rosa (is this very formal?)
Da Paolo
Hostaria del Pesce
La Camogliese (hotel restaurant)
Casmona (hotel restaurant)
In case my friends insist, which of these places have views of the sea?
Aug 14th, 2008, 08:56 AM
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Hi,
Regarding views and al fresco dining:
La Cucina di Nonna Nina has a vine-covered garden, plus interior seating in the villa. Garden is lovely on warm afternoons. For the night in September, inside.
Vento Ariel has a charming, ringside, eye-level view of the fishing boat marina. There are a handful of tables outside, under an awning. Double doors open up the rest of the inside table to the view and the breeze (or close it up in case of chilly weather).
Rosa's is not formal, although it's best described as your choice. Dating couples come dressed up in the evening. Everybody else, especially at lunch time, turns up in casual dress. It has a spectacular view from its open terrace. It is a good 25 minute walk, partly uphill, from the Cenobio dei Doge. Might be too cold for dinner outdoors.
Da Paolo has no view. In summer, they sometimes set up a small platform outdoors, behind the kitchen, and you can eat right in the caruggi of the medieval borgo. It's charming, especially for lunch. For dinner, eat indoors.
Hostaria del Pesce has no view.
La Camogliese (hotel restaurant) juts out over the sea for both a pretty view and the sound of the surf. The restaurant is glassed in, so it's okay for cool weather.
La Casmona no longer has a restaurant with its hotel.
Cenobio dei Doge has a very good glassed in restaurant with a spectacular view. Downsides are that it gets a lot of wedding parties and conferences, and that the space is rather formal.
I think it's best that you wait until much closer to your arrival so you can look at a five-day weather forecast, and proceed from there. Lovely weather argues for an outdoor venue -- but bear in mind that, at the sea, temps can drop once the sun goes down. The wind kicks up. I think I would enjoy a sea view my first night, provided it was indoors.
Regarding views and al fresco dining:
La Cucina di Nonna Nina has a vine-covered garden, plus interior seating in the villa. Garden is lovely on warm afternoons. For the night in September, inside.
Vento Ariel has a charming, ringside, eye-level view of the fishing boat marina. There are a handful of tables outside, under an awning. Double doors open up the rest of the inside table to the view and the breeze (or close it up in case of chilly weather).
Rosa's is not formal, although it's best described as your choice. Dating couples come dressed up in the evening. Everybody else, especially at lunch time, turns up in casual dress. It has a spectacular view from its open terrace. It is a good 25 minute walk, partly uphill, from the Cenobio dei Doge. Might be too cold for dinner outdoors.
Da Paolo has no view. In summer, they sometimes set up a small platform outdoors, behind the kitchen, and you can eat right in the caruggi of the medieval borgo. It's charming, especially for lunch. For dinner, eat indoors.
Hostaria del Pesce has no view.
La Camogliese (hotel restaurant) juts out over the sea for both a pretty view and the sound of the surf. The restaurant is glassed in, so it's okay for cool weather.
La Casmona no longer has a restaurant with its hotel.
Cenobio dei Doge has a very good glassed in restaurant with a spectacular view. Downsides are that it gets a lot of wedding parties and conferences, and that the space is rather formal.
I think it's best that you wait until much closer to your arrival so you can look at a five-day weather forecast, and proceed from there. Lovely weather argues for an outdoor venue -- but bear in mind that, at the sea, temps can drop once the sun goes down. The wind kicks up. I think I would enjoy a sea view my first night, provided it was indoors.
Aug 14th, 2008, 09:45 AM
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Zeppole, many thanks. If we discount the quest for a view for the moment, would you comment on the food at those places...are there any you would recommend above the others for great local fare? I would prefer NOT to eat at our hotel; we could have drinks there but I am thinking that it might be more interesting to dine elsewhere. Given the choice, I would rather go where locals (you, for example) would eat rather than stick to the strictly tourist places. Or is that just a pipe dream, given the popularity of Camogli?? I don't care if no one speaks English, etc.
Aug 14th, 2008, 10:03 AM
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I would go to Da Paolo for the seafood risotto and seppie pate, or Vento Ariel if I wanted whole fish, but bear in mind that the locals are local because they like the view, too! We tend to veer toward being beach bums and view hogs.
Camogli is very much a destination for Genovese and even Milanese who want to eat seafood and pesto, so most restuarant menus cater to that trade. The locals (like me!) tend to wander around at supper time looking at the menus and blackboards and chatting up the waitstaf to see who's got what as a special today.
Also, despite the atmosphere of a hotel dining room, and the slightly higher prices, I often eat at the La Playa restaurant in Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi because the kitchen is good. They may be the only place in town serving a cappon magro, plus a wider variety of non-Ligurian dishes when one wants a break.
But I, too, think it feels wimpy to eat at the hotel. But if you get bad luck and encounter a squall when you arrive, I wouldn't hesitate to eat there rather march about in the rain. Squalls in Camogli usually clear up overnight.
However, if you get a squall and can afford a taxi, you might consider Manuelina in neighboring Recco, considered a gourmet destination by the Genovese for its foccacia al formaggio (although Plotkin also recommends Da O Vittorio in Recco, and I like the more modest Pesce Ai Vivi in Recco for their rendition of the dish, which you can watch being made in the open kitchen).
Camogli is very much a destination for Genovese and even Milanese who want to eat seafood and pesto, so most restuarant menus cater to that trade. The locals (like me!) tend to wander around at supper time looking at the menus and blackboards and chatting up the waitstaf to see who's got what as a special today.
Also, despite the atmosphere of a hotel dining room, and the slightly higher prices, I often eat at the La Playa restaurant in Hotel Cenobio dei Dogi because the kitchen is good. They may be the only place in town serving a cappon magro, plus a wider variety of non-Ligurian dishes when one wants a break.
But I, too, think it feels wimpy to eat at the hotel. But if you get bad luck and encounter a squall when you arrive, I wouldn't hesitate to eat there rather march about in the rain. Squalls in Camogli usually clear up overnight.
However, if you get a squall and can afford a taxi, you might consider Manuelina in neighboring Recco, considered a gourmet destination by the Genovese for its foccacia al formaggio (although Plotkin also recommends Da O Vittorio in Recco, and I like the more modest Pesce Ai Vivi in Recco for their rendition of the dish, which you can watch being made in the open kitchen).
Aug 15th, 2008, 03:47 AM
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Zeppole, many, many thanks!! What strikes me as most interesting is how the food on this part of Italy's Med coast is totally different than the food a few hundred miles south in Campania. Now, when will we see a Ligurian restaurant in New York? I suspect we could never get the proper fish in the proper condition..
Aug 15th, 2008, 06:14 AM
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We just booked for 3 nights in Rapallo in the first week of October. It is so beautiful there and I am very excited!
Hopefully there will be some recommendations on eateries there before our trip!
Hopefully there will be some recommendations on eateries there before our trip!
