Let’s Go To France
#21
Original Poster
Two days in Reims
We took the train from CDG to Reims. We were asked to see our pass but then the person looked at our tickets and said we were ok. The track number posts on the board 20 minutes prior to departure. It was a good reminder to look at the train number not the location as our trains final destination was Strausbourg.
I had read on here that the connection for Champagne to Reims is easy and it was. Up over the tracks and back down for a slower ride into Reims.
We walked to our hotel through a lovely park filled with hammocks, children playing and lots of blooming flowers. The Japanese anemones, crocosmia and hydrangeas were all beautiful.
I love the hammocks
The hotel staff greeted us warmly and were very happy to see Americans traveling again. The room would not be ready until 2. With four hours we were able to leave everything there and go exploring.
Rems seems like a great city to explore on foot. We walked through zig zagging streets to the cathedral. We craned our necks trying to see the top. A cold beer and water later we walked some more.
A toddler was walking with her mom holding onto a madeleine that was as big as her hands. People in line to get their baguettes and people enjoying a drink while they visit is what struck me the most.
I did find the madeleine store along with the meat shop, fruit and vegetables and the bread. All of these stores made us hungry. Lunch was at a small corner boullangerie Maison Hardy. A sandwich and a raspberry tart later we were back to the hotel for a short nap.
We do not normally take a nap but we never arrive at 730 from the west coast. It is interesting to compare morning vs afternoon arrival and how we feel. I am not sure if I will do an early arrival again. I have felt off of my rhythm today. A nap was needed. I don’t even remember laying my head on the pillow.
A shower and a long walk later we found a bistro that served us an early dinner. I had champagne and goat cheese salad (greens, bacon, crisp potatoes, beets and toasted goat cheese). My dh had a chicken dish with a mushroom sauce served with fries and a salad. No room for dessert we rolled back to the room and passed out.
Day 2-
A late start to the morning. We went back to the same boulangerie for breakfast. My dh had ham and béchamel pastry that was heated up and quite yummy. My quiche lorraine and a cappuccino hit the spot. We were ready to explore more of this beautiful town.
We did go by a beautiful building with mosaics on the top. It was built in 1898 by architect Ernest Kalas (1816-1909). Initially produced for Jules Mumm, it was quickly taken over by Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin then by Champagne Jacquart.
During the First World War, this building, located near the Town Hall, also served as a refuge for the staff and elected officials of the City of Reims!
On the facade, you can admire five mosaics representing the making of Champagne. They were made by Auguste Guilbert-Martin, from drawings by Joseph Blanc and Octave Guillonnet champagne making at. It reminded me to look up and not just around.
CDC vs Pass- While here we have been asked for the PS everywhere we have eaten except the boulangerie. While there we met a nice couple from Chicago. She asked me about if we had gotten our pass because they had not. They are able to use their cdc card with no problems.
We walked through a park to jump on a small purple bus that stops at the champagne houses. We met a nice family from Ghent. Everyone has been really nice and very kind. The driver was great and dropped us off right at the entrance to Vranken Pommery. https://www.vrankenpommery.com
We paid €46 for use to do a self guided tour and then a glass of champagne.
This place is amazing. We walked down stairs worn by hundreds of years of use. There are numbers on plaques in the caves that correspond with your paper or your phone.
The thing that caught our eye were the baskets that were hanging from a metal trolleys. It was how they transported the bottles until the 1970’s.
After finishing our lovely champagne we wandered out the door to a bit more than a drizzle. Wouldn’t you know we left the umbrellas at hotel. The bus made our decision of walking vs riding. It pulled up as we were debating the pros and cons.
Getting off at the last stop we walked down a large street filled with lots of restaurants. We did stop and have a drink and a snack. Also learning that the charcuterie board really more meat and not enough cheese or any cheese?
On the way back I popped into a toy store and left my dh outside while I shopped.
Not 10 minutes later I exited the store and lost my husband. I waited and wondered where he had gone to and then figured he could find his way back. So I stopped in a few other stores on the way back. I managed to buy a few things for my grands. My niece is also pregnant and I found the softest tiny pink shirt.
The last store was my favorite. It was a store filled with everything made by local artisans. The owner was very nice. I love listening to someone speaking french but I feel like a deer in the headlights. After blinking I was able to tell her in my one year of high school french that I did not speak french. When she found out I was from California she told me about her year in Fresno. I am still wondering why Fresno? I bought my gd a chef apron that was handmade and completely adorable for a two year old. The print has kittens all over it.
Oh and my dh did find his way back to the hotel and we made a plan if he gets lost again.
Dinner was another hit. I had to try the salad with fried goat cheese and my dh enjoyed his chicken with a chorizo sauce, mashed potatoes and roasted veggies. The desserts looked amazing but I couldn’t even finish my salad so I passed. I should note that my dh had a great IPA Citra Galacitique.
We for Beaune at noon! I need to pop into the boulangerie this morning for a few treats on the train.
We took the train from CDG to Reims. We were asked to see our pass but then the person looked at our tickets and said we were ok. The track number posts on the board 20 minutes prior to departure. It was a good reminder to look at the train number not the location as our trains final destination was Strausbourg.
I had read on here that the connection for Champagne to Reims is easy and it was. Up over the tracks and back down for a slower ride into Reims.
We walked to our hotel through a lovely park filled with hammocks, children playing and lots of blooming flowers. The Japanese anemones, crocosmia and hydrangeas were all beautiful.
I love the hammocks
The hotel staff greeted us warmly and were very happy to see Americans traveling again. The room would not be ready until 2. With four hours we were able to leave everything there and go exploring.
Rems seems like a great city to explore on foot. We walked through zig zagging streets to the cathedral. We craned our necks trying to see the top. A cold beer and water later we walked some more.
A toddler was walking with her mom holding onto a madeleine that was as big as her hands. People in line to get their baguettes and people enjoying a drink while they visit is what struck me the most.
I did find the madeleine store along with the meat shop, fruit and vegetables and the bread. All of these stores made us hungry. Lunch was at a small corner boullangerie Maison Hardy. A sandwich and a raspberry tart later we were back to the hotel for a short nap.
We do not normally take a nap but we never arrive at 730 from the west coast. It is interesting to compare morning vs afternoon arrival and how we feel. I am not sure if I will do an early arrival again. I have felt off of my rhythm today. A nap was needed. I don’t even remember laying my head on the pillow.
A shower and a long walk later we found a bistro that served us an early dinner. I had champagne and goat cheese salad (greens, bacon, crisp potatoes, beets and toasted goat cheese). My dh had a chicken dish with a mushroom sauce served with fries and a salad. No room for dessert we rolled back to the room and passed out.
Day 2-
A late start to the morning. We went back to the same boulangerie for breakfast. My dh had ham and béchamel pastry that was heated up and quite yummy. My quiche lorraine and a cappuccino hit the spot. We were ready to explore more of this beautiful town.
We did go by a beautiful building with mosaics on the top. It was built in 1898 by architect Ernest Kalas (1816-1909). Initially produced for Jules Mumm, it was quickly taken over by Veuve Clicquot Ponsardin then by Champagne Jacquart.
During the First World War, this building, located near the Town Hall, also served as a refuge for the staff and elected officials of the City of Reims!
On the facade, you can admire five mosaics representing the making of Champagne. They were made by Auguste Guilbert-Martin, from drawings by Joseph Blanc and Octave Guillonnet champagne making at. It reminded me to look up and not just around.
CDC vs Pass- While here we have been asked for the PS everywhere we have eaten except the boulangerie. While there we met a nice couple from Chicago. She asked me about if we had gotten our pass because they had not. They are able to use their cdc card with no problems.
We walked through a park to jump on a small purple bus that stops at the champagne houses. We met a nice family from Ghent. Everyone has been really nice and very kind. The driver was great and dropped us off right at the entrance to Vranken Pommery. https://www.vrankenpommery.com
We paid €46 for use to do a self guided tour and then a glass of champagne.
This place is amazing. We walked down stairs worn by hundreds of years of use. There are numbers on plaques in the caves that correspond with your paper or your phone.
The thing that caught our eye were the baskets that were hanging from a metal trolleys. It was how they transported the bottles until the 1970’s.
After finishing our lovely champagne we wandered out the door to a bit more than a drizzle. Wouldn’t you know we left the umbrellas at hotel. The bus made our decision of walking vs riding. It pulled up as we were debating the pros and cons.
Getting off at the last stop we walked down a large street filled with lots of restaurants. We did stop and have a drink and a snack. Also learning that the charcuterie board really more meat and not enough cheese or any cheese?
On the way back I popped into a toy store and left my dh outside while I shopped.
Not 10 minutes later I exited the store and lost my husband. I waited and wondered where he had gone to and then figured he could find his way back. So I stopped in a few other stores on the way back. I managed to buy a few things for my grands. My niece is also pregnant and I found the softest tiny pink shirt.
The last store was my favorite. It was a store filled with everything made by local artisans. The owner was very nice. I love listening to someone speaking french but I feel like a deer in the headlights. After blinking I was able to tell her in my one year of high school french that I did not speak french. When she found out I was from California she told me about her year in Fresno. I am still wondering why Fresno? I bought my gd a chef apron that was handmade and completely adorable for a two year old. The print has kittens all over it.
Oh and my dh did find his way back to the hotel and we made a plan if he gets lost again.
Dinner was another hit. I had to try the salad with fried goat cheese and my dh enjoyed his chicken with a chorizo sauce, mashed potatoes and roasted veggies. The desserts looked amazing but I couldn’t even finish my salad so I passed. I should note that my dh had a great IPA Citra Galacitique.
We for Beaune at noon! I need to pop into the boulangerie this morning for a few treats on the train.
#27
Such a lovely start to your trip, Paqngo - for you and for us! I confess that my experiences of Reims have been limited to the cathedral and the odd champagne house so it's interesting to see what I've been missing and you have whetted my appetite for another visit. Keep it coming!
#29
Pagngo your TR and photos are a wonderful contribution to this Forum. It brings back memories of my brief visit to Reims and creates a really strong desire to return.....ASAP.
Continue to enjoy your visit to the fullest....and Merci !
Continue to enjoy your visit to the fullest....and Merci !
#31
Ahhhh France! You made my day with your interesting TR and artistic photos.
That goat cheese and beet salad with a glass of champagne in the background took me back to so many exquisite meals.
Now that September has arrived (our usual month to be in France) I sit outside enjoying the oncoming fall weather here in Wisconsin but long to be walking through the lovely parks all over France.
Looking forward tomorrow of your adventure.
That goat cheese and beet salad with a glass of champagne in the background took me back to so many exquisite meals.
Now that September has arrived (our usual month to be in France) I sit outside enjoying the oncoming fall weather here in Wisconsin but long to be walking through the lovely parks all over France.
Looking forward tomorrow of your adventure.
#32
Original Poster
Part one
Train from Paris to Dijon. What a beautiful ride on the top level of the train. The rolling hills with large sunflower fields, corn, copses of green trees and even some grapes. Every now and then a small village with a church appears and I wonder about the lives in these villages. Quiet and peaceful come to my mind.
Sadly we have missed the best blooming time for sunflowers this season.
In California everything is so brown right now dry with all of the record breaking weather. Here it is cloudy, rainy and so green. It is such a pleasurable change.
Are all cows whites in France?
We stop at a small town-Montband? As we pull into the station I see an old castle that overlooks the town. So much history.
I am trying to not look at my phone on the train. Is nice to disconnect and gaze out the window letting my thoughts wander.
We rented a small apartment about 4 blocks from the historic center. It is in an old building with tall windows and lots of light. It is the perfect size for two people.
Walking into the center Friday night reminded me of what I love about traveling. The buildings and cobblestone streets accented with blooming flowers in various shades.
We chose a restaurant with outdoor seating. A beautiful first night. Dinner was
a boeuf burgenone with halved small roasted potatoes and some finely chopped peppers. My dh had a chicken dish with a cheese sauce. Dinner was good but dessert was better. A creme brûlée made a great ending of a travel day.
It seems like I am awake and up before my dh so I go get take out to the nearest boulangerie for a croissant, pan au chocolate and 2 cappuccino. I am already enjoying the walkability of the town.
Saturday market is a big day here and it did not disappoint. Lots and lots of venders. Shoppers all looking for things from whole roasted chickens to women’s underwear. Something for everyone. It wrapped around four streets and was also inside a building. I did manage to pick up some items for the house. It is nice to have a meal at the house that is simple to prepare.
We walked back to the house and got everything put away and then walked over to a small park with colorful flower beds along the way. Going back into the center I noticed that a lot of restaurants close at 1:30. We were cutting the time close but did manage to snag an outdoor table at a restaurant called Au coq bleu. We had an older gentleman serving us and he was a hoot. He was trying to help me with my pronunciation. My dh had the croque monsieur and I had a Salade Chèvre Chaud. Lettuce, tomato, crispy bacon, creamy chevre on small toasted bread, walnuts and a Dijon dressing. It is a good thing that we are walking so much.
We found another park with a duck pond that we explored in the evening. People walking their dogs or walking with an elderly friend. Everyone that we encountered gave us a bonne soirée. The children’s play area had a great boat that looked like lot of fun. What really struck me though was the view behind the park. It opened up to a huge vineyard with row upon row of grapes. I guess it helped that the sun was setting and the clouds made for a beautiful pink tinged sky. I would love to have a small home with such a view.
Dinner was some sautéed green beans, roasted chicken and the crispy potatoes that were underneath all of the roasting chicken.
#34
Did you actually have a cappuccino for breakfast or was it café au lait? The French do not drink cappuccino. However, they do make a somewhat weird frothy concoction for tourists, usually topped with chocolate sprinkles so they can charge double for it and call it cappuccino.