Le Marche Research Help
Oct 26th, 2016, 11:53 PM
#61
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Ciao a tutti. I have re-jigged my itinerary and booked accommodation at Agriturismo San Lorenzo (Amandola) and Colleverde Country House, just outside of Urbino. Here is my revised itinerary. At this stage, I would appreciate tips on places to have dinner (i.e. whether for instance it is worth staying in A.P. for dinner and driving back to Amandola in the dark, or advisable to head back to base to relax for dinner without an hour's drive looming (I'm travelling alone remember).
Day 1 - Arrive Ancona, pick up car approximately 1pm; drive to AMANDOLA (3 nights)
** Explore Amandola, Sarnano and surrounds
Day 2 – Explore Monte San Martino (Osteria del Lago), Sibillini National Park
Day 3 - Day trip to Ascoli Piceno (1.0 hr) and Offida; return to Amandola (where to have dinner?)
Day 4 – Drive to URBINO (3 nights)
** Explore Urbino, Urbania, Pennabilli
Day 5 - Visit Gola de Furlo; Aqualagne
Day 6 - Day trip to San Leo (definitely) / San Marino (maybe)
Day 7 - Drive to SENIGALLIA via Mondavio and Corinaldo (1 night)
Day 8 - Drop off car Ancona; train to Ravenna.
Hope everyone's planning is going well! Grazie.
Day 1 - Arrive Ancona, pick up car approximately 1pm; drive to AMANDOLA (3 nights)
** Explore Amandola, Sarnano and surrounds
Day 2 – Explore Monte San Martino (Osteria del Lago), Sibillini National Park
Day 3 - Day trip to Ascoli Piceno (1.0 hr) and Offida; return to Amandola (where to have dinner?)
Day 4 – Drive to URBINO (3 nights)
** Explore Urbino, Urbania, Pennabilli
Day 5 - Visit Gola de Furlo; Aqualagne
Day 6 - Day trip to San Leo (definitely) / San Marino (maybe)
Day 7 - Drive to SENIGALLIA via Mondavio and Corinaldo (1 night)
Day 8 - Drop off car Ancona; train to Ravenna.
Hope everyone's planning is going well! Grazie.
Oct 27th, 2016, 04:45 AM
#62
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I can't really help you with Amandola and vicinity. However, it's really hard to go wrong in that part of Italy. I see that a restaurant called il Vecchio Moro in Amandola, an informal trattoria/pizzeria at the side of a lake, has good reviews on the Italian site of Tripadvisor.
We've had lunch or dinner often in Urbino, but I don't have any particular names to offer. We've always followed our noses and haven't been disappointed. The only bad meal we've ever had there was at a macrobiotic restaurant our niece took us to.
In Pennabilli, we ate at Il Bel Fico, an osteria. It was pretty good. In such small towns, like Amandola, it's unlikely you'll find very refined restaurants, but you'll usually find good local fare.
In San Leo, we really liked the Osteria la Corte di Berengario II, which I mentioned above.
In the town of Furlo, on the old Via Flaminia (not the modern highway) there is a restaurant called La Ginestra which is well known around here. I've never eaten there, but it's in a lovely spot along the river. There are several restaurants in Acqualagna, some of which specialize in truffles.
In the hinterlands of Senigallia, one of my favorite restaurants is the Grotta di Tufo, in the tiny hamlet of San Costanzo. They specialize in game (wild boar and the like), but everything is good there. May is late for fresh game, though.
In Corinaldo, we like the trattoria/pizzeria Ai Nove Tarocchi. It's in the canteen of a former monastery, built right into the town wall (which is one of the best preserved in all of Le Marche). Although it's an informal restaurant the quality and presentation of the food is excellent. You can also get a good light meal, with excellent local wine, at the bar Scuretto, at the top of the first part of the famous central staircase of Corinaldo.
In Senigallia, if you want a splurge, I can heartily recommend Uliassi, which has two Michelin stars, and has been selected as one of the top restaurants in Italy by the restaurant guide of the Italian weekly L'Espresso. It's worth every penny. If you want an excellent but much more reasonably priced meal, another of my favorite restaurants in Senigallia is Raggiazzuro.
City Pub in Senigallia has very good pizza, but it's sometimes very crowded.
Senigallia also has some very good gelaterie. I'm sorry I don't know the names of my favorites. I just know where they are. Brunelli, in Senigallia, has been voted 6th place in a list of the 100 best gelaterie in Italy. They have some strange flavors, like gelato with Campari and olives. I really go more for vanilla, myself.
Corinaldo also has two excellent gelaterie. One is Sbirulina, near the Nove Tarocche, inside the town gate. We sometimes go there for dessert after dinner at the Nove Tarocche. However, the Nove Tarocche also has pretty good desserts.
The other excellent handmade gelato is at the pasticceria Antonelli, just outside of Corinaldo on the road between Mondavio and Corinaldo.They have many fewer choices than Sbirulina, but the quality is excellent. They also have very good artisanal chocolate, and, of course, pastries. I sometimes buy their chocolates as gifts for friends and relatives in the US. They also sell local honey, jams, and liqueurs, although I haven't tried these. It would be on your right as you head into town coming from Mondavio, shortly after turning left and passing the big concavity (maybe the impact of an ancient meteorite?) between the road and the town walls.
We've had lunch or dinner often in Urbino, but I don't have any particular names to offer. We've always followed our noses and haven't been disappointed. The only bad meal we've ever had there was at a macrobiotic restaurant our niece took us to.
In Pennabilli, we ate at Il Bel Fico, an osteria. It was pretty good. In such small towns, like Amandola, it's unlikely you'll find very refined restaurants, but you'll usually find good local fare.
In San Leo, we really liked the Osteria la Corte di Berengario II, which I mentioned above.
In the town of Furlo, on the old Via Flaminia (not the modern highway) there is a restaurant called La Ginestra which is well known around here. I've never eaten there, but it's in a lovely spot along the river. There are several restaurants in Acqualagna, some of which specialize in truffles.
In the hinterlands of Senigallia, one of my favorite restaurants is the Grotta di Tufo, in the tiny hamlet of San Costanzo. They specialize in game (wild boar and the like), but everything is good there. May is late for fresh game, though.
In Corinaldo, we like the trattoria/pizzeria Ai Nove Tarocchi. It's in the canteen of a former monastery, built right into the town wall (which is one of the best preserved in all of Le Marche). Although it's an informal restaurant the quality and presentation of the food is excellent. You can also get a good light meal, with excellent local wine, at the bar Scuretto, at the top of the first part of the famous central staircase of Corinaldo.
In Senigallia, if you want a splurge, I can heartily recommend Uliassi, which has two Michelin stars, and has been selected as one of the top restaurants in Italy by the restaurant guide of the Italian weekly L'Espresso. It's worth every penny. If you want an excellent but much more reasonably priced meal, another of my favorite restaurants in Senigallia is Raggiazzuro.
City Pub in Senigallia has very good pizza, but it's sometimes very crowded.
Senigallia also has some very good gelaterie. I'm sorry I don't know the names of my favorites. I just know where they are. Brunelli, in Senigallia, has been voted 6th place in a list of the 100 best gelaterie in Italy. They have some strange flavors, like gelato with Campari and olives. I really go more for vanilla, myself.
Corinaldo also has two excellent gelaterie. One is Sbirulina, near the Nove Tarocche, inside the town gate. We sometimes go there for dessert after dinner at the Nove Tarocche. However, the Nove Tarocche also has pretty good desserts.
The other excellent handmade gelato is at the pasticceria Antonelli, just outside of Corinaldo on the road between Mondavio and Corinaldo.They have many fewer choices than Sbirulina, but the quality is excellent. They also have very good artisanal chocolate, and, of course, pastries. I sometimes buy their chocolates as gifts for friends and relatives in the US. They also sell local honey, jams, and liqueurs, although I haven't tried these. It would be on your right as you head into town coming from Mondavio, shortly after turning left and passing the big concavity (maybe the impact of an ancient meteorite?) between the road and the town walls.
Dec 17th, 2016, 04:05 PM
#64
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Bvlenci - latest development. My Agriturismo in Amandola has advised that they will be closed for a year due to renovations required following the two earthquakes! Makes me a little concerned about the area. I'm now looking at the Servigliano area as a 3 night base for day trips to A.P. and Offida, Monte San Marino. It is a little farther from A.P. and I'm wondering what this area might have to offer. Thank you!
Feb 18th, 2017, 10:58 PM
#65
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Hello. I am travelling by car in Le Marche and need help deciding the BEST ROUTE to take from Servigliano to my next base in Urbania. Is it worth going via Fabriano with a detour to the Parco Naturale della Gola della Rossa? Is it very windy and steep? I will leave early in the morning and would like to have time to go to Urbino in the afternoon. Thanks.
Feb 19th, 2017, 06:26 AM
#66
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Redlansneen - we live the area around Urbania. Urbino deserves a whole day!
Our pics of the area are here - I hope you enjoy it as much as we do!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pug_gi...57634528008046
Our pics of the area are here - I hope you enjoy it as much as we do!
https://www.flickr.com/photos/pug_gi...57634528008046
Feb 20th, 2017, 11:48 PM
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Thanks jamikins. I have seen your posts before. I am staying closer to Urbania than Urbino. I haven't cancelled the place in Urbino yet but I like the place in Urbania slightly better. Which would you choose between these two: Colleverde Country House v. Agriturismo La Rosa Tea. Which is better located? I thought I would do a loop from Urbania through the park to Carpegna and Pennabilli one day. So in answer to my earlier question, it's better to head to Urbino as early as possible and bypass Golf della Rossa? I wanted to visit the other Gola near Urbino anyway. Too much to do!
Feb 20th, 2017, 11:59 PM
#68
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Sorry, I meant we LOVE not live in my above post haha
I think it depends what you want from your lodgings. The Rosa Tea is quite a ways down what looks like a very small road, and then off even further on what could potentially be a dirt road - some of the roads are not well maintained and quite difficult to drive. The Country House looks like it is on an easier to drive road.
We always stay here http://www.latavolamarche.com/ and it is 14 km down a dirt road so I am not against it. Just something to be aware of when making your choice. Perhaps you prefer to be more rural so that will work better, but expect lots of potholes etc.
We really enjoyed our drive through the Furlo Gorge, but that is the only one we have done.
Hope this helps!
I think it depends what you want from your lodgings. The Rosa Tea is quite a ways down what looks like a very small road, and then off even further on what could potentially be a dirt road - some of the roads are not well maintained and quite difficult to drive. The Country House looks like it is on an easier to drive road.
We always stay here http://www.latavolamarche.com/ and it is 14 km down a dirt road so I am not against it. Just something to be aware of when making your choice. Perhaps you prefer to be more rural so that will work better, but expect lots of potholes etc.
We really enjoyed our drive through the Furlo Gorge, but that is the only one we have done.
Hope this helps!
Apr 26th, 2017, 01:58 AM
#69
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Hello Marche lovers! I am making a day trip from my base at Servigliano to the Grotte di Frasassi. Using Google Maps, and ticking "avoid tolls" I have the option to go via Macerata and Iesi OR via San Severino Marche and Matelica. The latter choice seems more direct. Is there anything which would tip the scales to go one way or the other? It appears the SSM/Matelica route takes me through a mountain pass. Any thoughts or advice? Thanks.
Nov 19th, 2017, 09:44 AM
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This is an old thread, but it really merits an update, because most of it was written before the second devastating earthquake (October 31st, 2016) that further devastated a large area of Le Marche/Umbria/Lazio, much of which had already been affected by the large earthquake of August, 2016.
We spent several weeks in September in our summer home, which was damaged by the earthquakes, especially the October quake. The repair work was taking place during the summer, when we usually go there.
Our place is near Camerino, beautiful Renaissance city, seat of one of Italy's oldest universities, which I mentioned above. Sadly, most of the historic center of Camerino was so badly damaged that most of it is off limits. I don't know when it will be repaired, but if the example of L'Aquila (damaged in a major earthquake in 2009) is predictive, it may take decades before the beautiful center of the city is reconstructed. (To date, 8 years later, only about 20% of the center of L'Aquila has been rebuilt.)
The rural zones damaged by the earthquakes are struggling to start over. For years these areas have been losing population, and many of the people who found temporary lodging elsewhere may never return.
Driving around the area, you don't immediately see any signs of the earthquake. The damage was hit or miss. You can drive for half an hour enjoying the beautiful scenery, and then suddenly come upon a group of buildings reduced to rubble, and just a few meters further on, there is no sign of damage.
We decided to take a drive through the more damaged zones of Le Marche, and to buy some local products in that area to give a hand to the local economy. We went to the town of Visso, to an historic salumeria, Villa Sant'Antonio, where my husband's family has been buying salami and cheeses for almost 50 years. The town of Visso has a good deal of damage, but, as in other towns, it's not at all uniform.
The building used by Villa Sant'Antonio appears undamaged, but it had been declared unusable, and the owner was operating out a little van parked outside. There was a long line of people waiting to buy something. Many of them were people who were temporary residents of Visso, occupied in the work of reconstruction. Ahead of us was a man from Emilia Romagna, who was going home for the weekend and had a shopping list from friends and relatives at home. We bought enough salami, cheese, and other local specialties for the next few months, for ourselves, and plentiful gifts for family members.
The owner of Villa Sant'Antonio said that they're working hard to get the building repaired before the cold weather arrived, because he couldn't continue selling out of a van in the winter. I hope they succeeded.
If anyone is hesitating about a possible vacation in Le Marche next summer, I would encourage you to go. The beauty of the region is unchanged, and there are plenty of touristic structures and restaurants still open. All of the restaurants and lodgings I mentioned in my earlier post are open for business, including Pappafò, one of my favorites, in Camerino, but not in the historic center. (Pappafò is in a very scenic spot, on a hill.)
We actually passed through Camerino on our way to Visso, but we didn't see any earthquake damage, because it's pretty much limited to the zone within the walls.
We spent several weeks in September in our summer home, which was damaged by the earthquakes, especially the October quake. The repair work was taking place during the summer, when we usually go there.
Our place is near Camerino, beautiful Renaissance city, seat of one of Italy's oldest universities, which I mentioned above. Sadly, most of the historic center of Camerino was so badly damaged that most of it is off limits. I don't know when it will be repaired, but if the example of L'Aquila (damaged in a major earthquake in 2009) is predictive, it may take decades before the beautiful center of the city is reconstructed. (To date, 8 years later, only about 20% of the center of L'Aquila has been rebuilt.)
The rural zones damaged by the earthquakes are struggling to start over. For years these areas have been losing population, and many of the people who found temporary lodging elsewhere may never return.
Driving around the area, you don't immediately see any signs of the earthquake. The damage was hit or miss. You can drive for half an hour enjoying the beautiful scenery, and then suddenly come upon a group of buildings reduced to rubble, and just a few meters further on, there is no sign of damage.
We decided to take a drive through the more damaged zones of Le Marche, and to buy some local products in that area to give a hand to the local economy. We went to the town of Visso, to an historic salumeria, Villa Sant'Antonio, where my husband's family has been buying salami and cheeses for almost 50 years. The town of Visso has a good deal of damage, but, as in other towns, it's not at all uniform.
The building used by Villa Sant'Antonio appears undamaged, but it had been declared unusable, and the owner was operating out a little van parked outside. There was a long line of people waiting to buy something. Many of them were people who were temporary residents of Visso, occupied in the work of reconstruction. Ahead of us was a man from Emilia Romagna, who was going home for the weekend and had a shopping list from friends and relatives at home. We bought enough salami, cheese, and other local specialties for the next few months, for ourselves, and plentiful gifts for family members.
The owner of Villa Sant'Antonio said that they're working hard to get the building repaired before the cold weather arrived, because he couldn't continue selling out of a van in the winter. I hope they succeeded.
If anyone is hesitating about a possible vacation in Le Marche next summer, I would encourage you to go. The beauty of the region is unchanged, and there are plenty of touristic structures and restaurants still open. All of the restaurants and lodgings I mentioned in my earlier post are open for business, including Pappafò, one of my favorites, in Camerino, but not in the historic center. (Pappafò is in a very scenic spot, on a hill.)
We actually passed through Camerino on our way to Visso, but we didn't see any earthquake damage, because it's pretty much limited to the zone within the walls.
Mar 23rd, 2018, 12:26 PM
#76
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Well this trip is finally happening! I look forward to diving back into these threads and making some tough decision on how to allot 10 nights, with car, late May.
Because either would be convenient for arrival or departure from Ancona airport and we love the sea, my first conundrum is Senigallia versus Sirolo. Senigallia has seafood restaurants and a charming old town, but Sirolo has some really amazing accommodations and the Conero hiking. Because right now we think we will also incorporate the Ascoli Piceno and Urbino areas, I think I will choose only one seaside base. While at the sea, I am also interested in the natural area just north of Pesaro called San Bartolo Natural Park. Is anyone familiar with the hiking there and how it compares with Conero? I can't copy the text here to translate it properly, but it appears there may have been fires there last year? Parco Naturale del Monte San Bartolo
Okay much more to come I'm sure, and thank you again for your contributions, and especially bvlenci for your exhaustive information on le Marche.
.
Because either would be convenient for arrival or departure from Ancona airport and we love the sea, my first conundrum is Senigallia versus Sirolo. Senigallia has seafood restaurants and a charming old town, but Sirolo has some really amazing accommodations and the Conero hiking. Because right now we think we will also incorporate the Ascoli Piceno and Urbino areas, I think I will choose only one seaside base. While at the sea, I am also interested in the natural area just north of Pesaro called San Bartolo Natural Park. Is anyone familiar with the hiking there and how it compares with Conero? I can't copy the text here to translate it properly, but it appears there may have been fires there last year? Parco Naturale del Monte San Bartolo
Okay much more to come I'm sure, and thank you again for your contributions, and especially bvlenci for your exhaustive information on le Marche.
.
Mar 24th, 2018, 06:18 PM
#77
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Yorkshire: Great to know you are planning that trip! I've heard so many good things about Senigallia that we booked three nights there, and will visit the Sirolo area only for a lunch on a Sunday, when we leave Senigallia for Ascoli. I'd love to learn your itinerary.
Mar 25th, 2018, 12:53 PM
#78
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Yorkshire: I am posting a link to the regions of Pesaro and Urbino. It is in Italian but you can make out the addresses and names of things to see, local foods and festivals celebrating them, driving routes, and restaurants that might not be in guidebooks. It might be worth a look:
http://www.turismo.pesarourbino.it/f..._del_gusto.pdf
And this is a restaurant list for Le Marche. It focuses on upscale places, it seems, but might also be worth browsing:
Identità Golose - Guida ai ristoranti d'autore - Risultati della ricerca
http://www.turismo.pesarourbino.it/f..._del_gusto.pdf
And this is a restaurant list for Le Marche. It focuses on upscale places, it seems, but might also be worth browsing:
Identità Golose - Guida ai ristoranti d'autore - Risultati della ricerca
Apr 17th, 2018, 10:31 AM
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I've made some progress, with a few nights booked in Ascoli Piceno (hubby loved the look of it, but I am bummed the fried olives will be stuffed with meat). We still plan to finish in Senigallia or thereabouts for our Ancona departure. I am looking for a wild card in the middle. We prefer a town setting, but it can be very small--a few restaurants is all that we require. We do not mind moving only slight distances because we prefer our day trips to be no longer than 30 minutes drive each way but plenty of walkable options at night, and I have found that there can be thousands of options in any direction in most places. So, I have found an appealing accommodation in Sarnano. Thoughts? Hiking and hill towns are our priorities. Would that provide enough variety, etc.? I was actually hoping for something a little more to the north, perhaps centered around Fabriano, and I have searched just about every town mentioned in this thread. It seems a lot of the accommodation is either out of town, or is in a large hotel. (I guess charming with a view but in a town are our preferences.) Any other spots I should refocus my search on?
