Laura and Steve's Spanish Adventure
Jun 12th, 2017, 07:42 AM
#21
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
DAYS 8 AND 9 I THINK: SEVILLA - THE GOOD, THE NOT SO GOOD, THE VERY HOT, THE AMAZING
So we sadly left Finca La Fronda and it's gorgeous views and cool breezes yesterday to head down to Sevilla. Making it three for three in the restaurant recomendations our hostess recommended Restaurante Jacaranda in Higuera de la Sierra on the way. Another sleepy town with nothing else in it - another totally amazing meal with wonderful service!
The drive was lovely and easy until of course we reached Sevilla and tried to follow the GPS/Google Maps directions to the train station to return the car. We found the train station after a bit of expected getting lost, but where was the Hertz car return? around and around we went. Found it eventually.
We had rented an apt with the express desire to get was done, and perhaps paid more than we would have to find one with a pool. Our first hint that we might be in trouble was when the taxi driver was utterly befuddled by the address, and then had to let us off at the end of the street to walk the rest of the way as the car couldn't get through. Part of my assumption in choosing a location in the Macarena was that even though it is a further walk than most locations we would be able to get a taxi when too tired or hot. However, where we are seems to be pretty far from any taxi routes. We've walked mostly, gotten taxis back. I'm a bit worried however about what to do when it is time to get to the train station in two days.
The apt itself is on the one hand physically lovely - but had hardly any or the crucial supplies you need (we rent our house out so we know what is "normal" in the biz). Even as we speak my husband is cursing as the shower curtain is coming down for the second time.
The dryer barely works so those of you who told me to forget the dryer and just go with the Andalusian sun - you were right!
It is very nice to have a pool to jump in in this heat, and we are slowly but surely getting wash done.
After a quick trip tot he market last night and a grumpy rest, we found our way to a large square and a great tapas restaurant (tiquetaque I think) - I think we are finally getting the hang of ordering tapas - and the variety was much better and cleverer than what we found in Madrid or Cordoba.
Found our way back, we were settling in when at 11 pm a fuse blew and we lost electricity - yeaks, VEO apt did answer the phone when I called, and Steve was able to find the fuse box, but it was unsettling.
This morning I nagged poor tired hubby out of bed so we could make it to the Real Alcazar in time for our tour. We were so glad I did, and the walk really wasn't as bad as I expected. To those of you who recommended getting tickets ahead of time, and including the Cuartos Real THANK YOU!!! If you are going to Sevilla and have not gotten your tickets on line I highly recommend you do so - the guard turned oodles of people away saying they were sold out. There were only 4 people on our tour and it was phenomenally beautiful. Truly one of the most beautiful places I've visited - and the audio guide was well done.
We then walked across the street and got in line, but a lady came by and said, do you speak English - 10 E more for a private tour and you get to skip the line. We grabbed it (heat was climbing to 100 by then). The tour was actually very informative and the Cathedral is gorgeous (3rd larges Cathedral in the world).
stopped for coffee and cold water and then walked to the Parque Maria Louisa. While the park is lovely and in much better shape than similar parks in Athens and Lisboa that we visited, it probably wasn't worth the walk in the heat, we were too tired and hot to really enjoy it although the sounds of the birds singing was nice. Following recommendations from Fodorites we then went to Restaurante San Marcos in Santa Cruz. Had a nice lunch, Steve liked his ravioli more than I liked my duck, but the setting was very nice (and cool). wandered a round a bit more but our hearts weren't in it, and now we are back doing more laundry and resting.
So we sadly left Finca La Fronda and it's gorgeous views and cool breezes yesterday to head down to Sevilla. Making it three for three in the restaurant recomendations our hostess recommended Restaurante Jacaranda in Higuera de la Sierra on the way. Another sleepy town with nothing else in it - another totally amazing meal with wonderful service!
The drive was lovely and easy until of course we reached Sevilla and tried to follow the GPS/Google Maps directions to the train station to return the car. We found the train station after a bit of expected getting lost, but where was the Hertz car return? around and around we went. Found it eventually.
We had rented an apt with the express desire to get was done, and perhaps paid more than we would have to find one with a pool. Our first hint that we might be in trouble was when the taxi driver was utterly befuddled by the address, and then had to let us off at the end of the street to walk the rest of the way as the car couldn't get through. Part of my assumption in choosing a location in the Macarena was that even though it is a further walk than most locations we would be able to get a taxi when too tired or hot. However, where we are seems to be pretty far from any taxi routes. We've walked mostly, gotten taxis back. I'm a bit worried however about what to do when it is time to get to the train station in two days.
The apt itself is on the one hand physically lovely - but had hardly any or the crucial supplies you need (we rent our house out so we know what is "normal" in the biz). Even as we speak my husband is cursing as the shower curtain is coming down for the second time.
The dryer barely works so those of you who told me to forget the dryer and just go with the Andalusian sun - you were right!
It is very nice to have a pool to jump in in this heat, and we are slowly but surely getting wash done.
After a quick trip tot he market last night and a grumpy rest, we found our way to a large square and a great tapas restaurant (tiquetaque I think) - I think we are finally getting the hang of ordering tapas - and the variety was much better and cleverer than what we found in Madrid or Cordoba.
Found our way back, we were settling in when at 11 pm a fuse blew and we lost electricity - yeaks, VEO apt did answer the phone when I called, and Steve was able to find the fuse box, but it was unsettling.
This morning I nagged poor tired hubby out of bed so we could make it to the Real Alcazar in time for our tour. We were so glad I did, and the walk really wasn't as bad as I expected. To those of you who recommended getting tickets ahead of time, and including the Cuartos Real THANK YOU!!! If you are going to Sevilla and have not gotten your tickets on line I highly recommend you do so - the guard turned oodles of people away saying they were sold out. There were only 4 people on our tour and it was phenomenally beautiful. Truly one of the most beautiful places I've visited - and the audio guide was well done.
We then walked across the street and got in line, but a lady came by and said, do you speak English - 10 E more for a private tour and you get to skip the line. We grabbed it (heat was climbing to 100 by then). The tour was actually very informative and the Cathedral is gorgeous (3rd larges Cathedral in the world).
stopped for coffee and cold water and then walked to the Parque Maria Louisa. While the park is lovely and in much better shape than similar parks in Athens and Lisboa that we visited, it probably wasn't worth the walk in the heat, we were too tired and hot to really enjoy it although the sounds of the birds singing was nice. Following recommendations from Fodorites we then went to Restaurante San Marcos in Santa Cruz. Had a nice lunch, Steve liked his ravioli more than I liked my duck, but the setting was very nice (and cool). wandered a round a bit more but our hearts weren't in it, and now we are back doing more laundry and resting.
Jun 12th, 2017, 08:14 AM
#23
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Just a small comment on your great review, about food: a "tapa" is something you get for free when you order a glass of wine or a beer, mainly in central and southern Spain (but also in other regions). It´s normally a small dish (some fries, some chorizo, olives...) and it´s free. A "ración" is what you´re having for dinner, it´s meant to be shared by those at the table and you have it close to the bar (not in the restaurant inside), and it´s not free. You normally order raciones of chopitos (small fried squid), or meatballs, or octopus, or cheese, or ham...And, in the Basque Country (where I live), we don´t have "tapas", it´s "pintxos" and it´s miniature cuisine, and you pay for them. Tapas or pintxos are never a meal, just an appetizer to go with your drink, and a way not to get drunk, and are taken before lunch or before dinner. I wrote a post about it sometime ago, but can´t find it! In any case, thanks for your great report!
Jun 13th, 2017, 01:03 AM
#25
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks Mikelg - we are learning - it is confusing as the menus refer to what we have oredered as tapas - but then it is hard to see what is for tourists and what is authentic. We've been so hot that it has been hard to search out the better tapas/tapa places
and memejs - no we didn't get to the Plaza de Espana - so unfortunately missed it. next trip (;
and Karen - we just got tickets for the Alcazar and the cuartos on line in advance - the Cathedral tour was just luck. both were real tours, but not overly long and very informative.
and memejs - no we didn't get to the Plaza de Espana - so unfortunately missed it. next trip (;
and Karen - we just got tickets for the Alcazar and the cuartos on line in advance - the Cathedral tour was just luck. both were real tours, but not overly long and very informative.
Jun 13th, 2017, 05:14 AM
#26
Join Date: Oct 2013
Posts: 1,001
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Laura, perhaps this website will help you navigate Sevilla's tapas scene. http://azahar-sevilla.com/sevilletapas/
This may help as well: http://spanishsabores.com/2015/04/22/eating-in-seville/
I know I should defer to Mikelg's experience, as he lives in Spain, but I'd point out a few things that we noted from our recent trip. We only received a free tapa with a drink in Granada and, to a more limited extent, in Madrid. In Seville, we paid for nearly all of our tapas. And while I appreciate that for the average Spaniard, tapas is not considered their evening meal, as a tourist--not used to eating dinner so late--we often made dinner out of it. If I lived in Spain for any length of time, I'd try to adapt, but for a short stay, we ate "dinner" when we wanted to, notwithstanding local norms.
It also seemed to us that many of the more modern restaurants, especially in Seville, were blurring the lines between traditional tapas and "dinner." At places like Vineria San Telmo, we saw plenty of locals seemingly eating "tapas" for dinner, but the setting itself is more restaurant than bar. The tapas scene as a whole just didn't seem as rigid as what Mikelg has suggested. If waiters were judging us for how or what we ordered, they certainly didn't let on!
This may help as well: http://spanishsabores.com/2015/04/22/eating-in-seville/
I know I should defer to Mikelg's experience, as he lives in Spain, but I'd point out a few things that we noted from our recent trip. We only received a free tapa with a drink in Granada and, to a more limited extent, in Madrid. In Seville, we paid for nearly all of our tapas. And while I appreciate that for the average Spaniard, tapas is not considered their evening meal, as a tourist--not used to eating dinner so late--we often made dinner out of it. If I lived in Spain for any length of time, I'd try to adapt, but for a short stay, we ate "dinner" when we wanted to, notwithstanding local norms.
It also seemed to us that many of the more modern restaurants, especially in Seville, were blurring the lines between traditional tapas and "dinner." At places like Vineria San Telmo, we saw plenty of locals seemingly eating "tapas" for dinner, but the setting itself is more restaurant than bar. The tapas scene as a whole just didn't seem as rigid as what Mikelg has suggested. If waiters were judging us for how or what we ordered, they certainly didn't let on!
Jun 13th, 2017, 07:41 AM
#27
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks Indyhiker, and since we are on to Granada tomorrow anyway, we shall do our best to adapt there. Bottom line is we are eating very well!
DAY 13 - WE LEAVE THE TOURIST SCENE IN SEVILLE BEHIND AND HAVE AN AWESOME DAY
After a rest and lovely swim on the rooftop we looked at our watches and wow - time for dinner already. We tried to find some other tapas places to try but I think they were mostly tourist oriented. finally settled on one - it was very mediocre - then I looked across the square and voila - there was TriqueTraque where we had the excellent meal the night before. We cut our losses - hopped across the way and finished off with meatballs in almond sauce and Thai buns (aka gyoza) which were phenomenal.
This morning, being our last laid back one we took our time getting ready. Instead of heading back down to Santa Cruz/cathedral area we decided to check out some of the sights nearer where we are staying (Macarena district). We walked to the Convento Santa Paulo. There was not a single other tourist in sight! We were worried at first it was not open, but ringing the bell a lovely lady let us in and indicated we should climb some stairs and ring another bell which we did. After about a five minute wait a sister in traditional habit opened the door - she was older than me - maybe 70, with the sweetest smile on her face. She took such delight in showing us the art and the rooms. Although she spoke no English and my Spanish is basic, we got along great. We were particularly awed by two reliquaries (having read many books in which relics played a significant role) it was - don't know the word - we just kinda took deep breaths to be seeing some for real. We found the visit very spiritual - maybe because the sister was such a beacon of grace.
We then went to the Casa de Las Duenas which is the ancestral home of the Dukes of Alba dating to the 15th century I think. The gardens are as beautiful as those in the Alcazar if not more so - and there were only a handful of visitors. The art was eclectic but interesting and the building beautiful. I finally broke down and engaged in some gift store purchases.
We thought about going to a third place, but being hungry chose to go for lunch instead. I wanted to try La Azotea that so many people had recommended, but it was full. So Steve pulled out his phone and did a search for something in the area and found Abantal which is Michelin rated as well as Guide Resperol ** We called and they said , si, so we walked over (whew, hot) and oh my heavens what a lunch - we chickened out on the tasting menu - didn't think we could handle 7 courses in the heat - but shared a starter of paella with cod and pork and then I had a sea bass, and Steve had lamb neck, and finished with a banana cake - with all sorts of amuse bouche and other tasty tidbits in between (watermellon juice with bloody mary foam). This isn't doing it justice, it was the kind of meal you would moan if it wasn't rude. After that we were way too sated and tired to take in any more, so home to laundry.
Now to go fold said laundry. Tomorrow wish us luck finding a taxi to get to Sant Justa in good time for the train to Granada
DAY 13 - WE LEAVE THE TOURIST SCENE IN SEVILLE BEHIND AND HAVE AN AWESOME DAY
After a rest and lovely swim on the rooftop we looked at our watches and wow - time for dinner already. We tried to find some other tapas places to try but I think they were mostly tourist oriented. finally settled on one - it was very mediocre - then I looked across the square and voila - there was TriqueTraque where we had the excellent meal the night before. We cut our losses - hopped across the way and finished off with meatballs in almond sauce and Thai buns (aka gyoza) which were phenomenal.
This morning, being our last laid back one we took our time getting ready. Instead of heading back down to Santa Cruz/cathedral area we decided to check out some of the sights nearer where we are staying (Macarena district). We walked to the Convento Santa Paulo. There was not a single other tourist in sight! We were worried at first it was not open, but ringing the bell a lovely lady let us in and indicated we should climb some stairs and ring another bell which we did. After about a five minute wait a sister in traditional habit opened the door - she was older than me - maybe 70, with the sweetest smile on her face. She took such delight in showing us the art and the rooms. Although she spoke no English and my Spanish is basic, we got along great. We were particularly awed by two reliquaries (having read many books in which relics played a significant role) it was - don't know the word - we just kinda took deep breaths to be seeing some for real. We found the visit very spiritual - maybe because the sister was such a beacon of grace.
We then went to the Casa de Las Duenas which is the ancestral home of the Dukes of Alba dating to the 15th century I think. The gardens are as beautiful as those in the Alcazar if not more so - and there were only a handful of visitors. The art was eclectic but interesting and the building beautiful. I finally broke down and engaged in some gift store purchases.
We thought about going to a third place, but being hungry chose to go for lunch instead. I wanted to try La Azotea that so many people had recommended, but it was full. So Steve pulled out his phone and did a search for something in the area and found Abantal which is Michelin rated as well as Guide Resperol ** We called and they said , si, so we walked over (whew, hot) and oh my heavens what a lunch - we chickened out on the tasting menu - didn't think we could handle 7 courses in the heat - but shared a starter of paella with cod and pork and then I had a sea bass, and Steve had lamb neck, and finished with a banana cake - with all sorts of amuse bouche and other tasty tidbits in between (watermellon juice with bloody mary foam). This isn't doing it justice, it was the kind of meal you would moan if it wasn't rude. After that we were way too sated and tired to take in any more, so home to laundry.
Now to go fold said laundry. Tomorrow wish us luck finding a taxi to get to Sant Justa in good time for the train to Granada
Jun 13th, 2017, 12:42 PM
#30
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Indyhiker, it´s not really tapas what locals where having...it´s "raciones", which is not the same thing. A tapa is eaten standing at the counter, while a ración is had sitting down and sharing it with your companions. A ración may be a meal, but not a tapa. The difference may be subtle, but for a Spaniard it´s vey clear!
Jun 13th, 2017, 11:13 PM
#31
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
thanks all for your kind words. and Mikelg - part of what is confusing for the tourista is that the menu is calling it Tapas as are the signs on the restaurants - and I am sure that you know whereof you speak - whatever it is we are eating way too much of it!
last night we tried to go to a restaurant recommended by a friend, but it was a bit early so wandered over to a square we hadn't seen before and found a restaurant called Aljibe - ate up on the rooftop - beautiful view and breeze, dishes were delicious (finally learned not to order too much) raciones I believe lol, duck risotto for me, pork cheeks for him, a bit of banana cake for dessert. Even though there was a very large table next to us service was excellent and friendly.
Off to Granada!
last night we tried to go to a restaurant recommended by a friend, but it was a bit early so wandered over to a square we hadn't seen before and found a restaurant called Aljibe - ate up on the rooftop - beautiful view and breeze, dishes were delicious (finally learned not to order too much) raciones I believe lol, duck risotto for me, pork cheeks for him, a bit of banana cake for dessert. Even though there was a very large table next to us service was excellent and friendly.
Off to Granada!
Jun 14th, 2017, 10:58 AM
#32
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bar owners are probably simplifying and making it kind of easier for visitors...not a big deal as long as you´re enjoying them! But if you ever make it to the Basque Country, you won´t find tapas but pintxos...a whole different thing!
Jun 15th, 2017, 06:34 AM
#33
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
sounds cool Mikelg - hope we make it someday indeed
GRANADA IN THE ANDALUSIAN SUN
I was a bit worried about getting to the train station in Seville on time as we were staying on a street that was little more than an alleyway, but the young man who checked us in had told us about the app - Cabify which is the Spanish version of Uber. After a good deal of phone messing around we were able to download it and it worked like a charm - we were picked up with what felt like a town car and the whole thing was most efficient.
Santa Justa was a bit confusing - just worried cause our train had a message associated with it and it wasn't clear, but once the track was put up all went well (no luggage control at all). We settled in for a nice ride with a car full of other tourists - the countryside was beautiful. And then found out that sure enough - as warned by a fodorite - we needed to change in Antequerra for a bus. Other than the train steps being difficult to manage with heavy bags the transfer was easy enough however - they truly have the system down, and we arrived in Granada pretty much smack dab on time.
GRANADA IN THE ANDALUSIAN SUN
I was a bit worried about getting to the train station in Seville on time as we were staying on a street that was little more than an alleyway, but the young man who checked us in had told us about the app - Cabify which is the Spanish version of Uber. After a good deal of phone messing around we were able to download it and it worked like a charm - we were picked up with what felt like a town car and the whole thing was most efficient.
Santa Justa was a bit confusing - just worried cause our train had a message associated with it and it wasn't clear, but once the track was put up all went well (no luggage control at all). We settled in for a nice ride with a car full of other tourists - the countryside was beautiful. And then found out that sure enough - as warned by a fodorite - we needed to change in Antequerra for a bus. Other than the train steps being difficult to manage with heavy bags the transfer was easy enough however - they truly have the system down, and we arrived in Granada pretty much smack dab on time.
Jun 15th, 2017, 06:56 AM
#34
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
continued from above:
we hopped a taxi to the Parador where we are staying. After the elegant but somewhat run down and uncomfortable apt we were staying at in Seville we were ready for some mod cons as they say. The Parador is fantastic, the staff so helpful, and the room cool and comfy. We grabbed lunch on the patio which has a gorgeous view of the town and the Alhambra.
I started to feel poorly at that point - perhaps something I ate, or too much heat and fatigue or a combination of the above. We wanted to pick up our Alhambra tickets though before settling in so started down the hill to the gate - remembered halfway we needed our passports and walked up again and then down again, - the temperature was inthe 100's with humidity (40's C) and by this point I was feeling really poorly - I think I was getting heat "fatigue" or whatever you call it but could barely move by the time we got back to the room.
I tried to take a shower but it was so complicated I think only an engineer would understand it (we did finally figure it out but at that moment it utterly overwhelmed me). Finally lay down and my husband plied me with potato chips (for salt) and soda (for the tummy). He said we should skp dinner and the night time Nazrid Palace but I said - no way.
We had asked for an early reservation at the Parador restaurant which they cheerfully accomadated. We ate three meals there altogether - two lunches and one dinner. I'd read some so so reviews on trip advisor but I thought they were great - the food was good and served with panache (I really enjoyed a risotto with lobster, and Steve had a great kid stew). It is available to all btw - you don't have to stay at the hotel and very convenient from the Alhambra and you can get a light meal on the patio.
ADVICE: IF YOU ARE GOING DURING SUMMER MONTHS TRY TO STAY "ON THE HILL" IF YOU CAN. THERE ARE AT LEAST THREE HOTELS UP HERE: THE PARADOR, THE WASHINGTON IRVING AND THE HOTEL AMERICA. THE HEAT IS TRULY BRUTAL AND YOU WILL WANT TO SAVE EVERY OUNCE OF ENERGY TO WALK AROUND THE ALHAMBRA. ALSO THE ADDED ADVANTAGE THAT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE VISIT WE WERE ABLE TO GO BACK TO OUR ROOM TO USE THE RESTROOM AND COOL DOWN FOR A FEW MINUTES.
So we then took off for the night time visit to the Nasrid, but were too tired and confused to do the obvious and read the signs so again took an unnecessary walk down the hill, then were rushing cause we weren't sure they would let us in. Turned out the entrance was right around the corner from the Parador, and we didn't need to worry, they were very relaxed about letting us in. It was indeed magical and beautiful as everyone said - I'll post pictures when I get home but I don't think words can do it justice.
This morning I again nagged hubby out of bed, worried about missing our Nasrid Palace tickets - it was good to get there early,not so hot, and the line was just forming (10:30), we got in easily. We didn't take a tour but did use the audio guide and it was very informative and I thought concise.
It is all so lovely and amazing that words fail me - after the Nasrid palace we went to the Carlos V palace - not so much to see there, but on the second floor is an art museum that hardly anyone went to. In addition to a great collection spanning the rennaisance to modern times (my favorites were the modern) it was air- conditioned! the perfect way to recover from the heat and for only 6E it was a bargain. We wandered around the Alcazaba (loved the olive garden), went back to the room to cool down a bit, and then walked through the Generalife - what an amazing, beautiful,spectacular and gorgeous garden - I am so glad we made it here.
we are resting now - early dinner and early bed tonight and then early flight tomorrow to Barcelona for our last stop. it is all going so fast. The nice young man at the desk arranged an early morning picnic for us as we will be leaving before breakfast is served.
Alhambra was amazing in the heat - I can only imagine what it would be like if the temperatures were bearable.
we hopped a taxi to the Parador where we are staying. After the elegant but somewhat run down and uncomfortable apt we were staying at in Seville we were ready for some mod cons as they say. The Parador is fantastic, the staff so helpful, and the room cool and comfy. We grabbed lunch on the patio which has a gorgeous view of the town and the Alhambra.
I started to feel poorly at that point - perhaps something I ate, or too much heat and fatigue or a combination of the above. We wanted to pick up our Alhambra tickets though before settling in so started down the hill to the gate - remembered halfway we needed our passports and walked up again and then down again, - the temperature was inthe 100's with humidity (40's C) and by this point I was feeling really poorly - I think I was getting heat "fatigue" or whatever you call it but could barely move by the time we got back to the room.
I tried to take a shower but it was so complicated I think only an engineer would understand it (we did finally figure it out but at that moment it utterly overwhelmed me). Finally lay down and my husband plied me with potato chips (for salt) and soda (for the tummy). He said we should skp dinner and the night time Nazrid Palace but I said - no way.
We had asked for an early reservation at the Parador restaurant which they cheerfully accomadated. We ate three meals there altogether - two lunches and one dinner. I'd read some so so reviews on trip advisor but I thought they were great - the food was good and served with panache (I really enjoyed a risotto with lobster, and Steve had a great kid stew). It is available to all btw - you don't have to stay at the hotel and very convenient from the Alhambra and you can get a light meal on the patio.
ADVICE: IF YOU ARE GOING DURING SUMMER MONTHS TRY TO STAY "ON THE HILL" IF YOU CAN. THERE ARE AT LEAST THREE HOTELS UP HERE: THE PARADOR, THE WASHINGTON IRVING AND THE HOTEL AMERICA. THE HEAT IS TRULY BRUTAL AND YOU WILL WANT TO SAVE EVERY OUNCE OF ENERGY TO WALK AROUND THE ALHAMBRA. ALSO THE ADDED ADVANTAGE THAT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE VISIT WE WERE ABLE TO GO BACK TO OUR ROOM TO USE THE RESTROOM AND COOL DOWN FOR A FEW MINUTES.
So we then took off for the night time visit to the Nasrid, but were too tired and confused to do the obvious and read the signs so again took an unnecessary walk down the hill, then were rushing cause we weren't sure they would let us in. Turned out the entrance was right around the corner from the Parador, and we didn't need to worry, they were very relaxed about letting us in. It was indeed magical and beautiful as everyone said - I'll post pictures when I get home but I don't think words can do it justice.
This morning I again nagged hubby out of bed, worried about missing our Nasrid Palace tickets - it was good to get there early,not so hot, and the line was just forming (10:30), we got in easily. We didn't take a tour but did use the audio guide and it was very informative and I thought concise.
It is all so lovely and amazing that words fail me - after the Nasrid palace we went to the Carlos V palace - not so much to see there, but on the second floor is an art museum that hardly anyone went to. In addition to a great collection spanning the rennaisance to modern times (my favorites were the modern) it was air- conditioned! the perfect way to recover from the heat and for only 6E it was a bargain. We wandered around the Alcazaba (loved the olive garden), went back to the room to cool down a bit, and then walked through the Generalife - what an amazing, beautiful,spectacular and gorgeous garden - I am so glad we made it here.
we are resting now - early dinner and early bed tonight and then early flight tomorrow to Barcelona for our last stop. it is all going so fast. The nice young man at the desk arranged an early morning picnic for us as we will be leaving before breakfast is served.
Alhambra was amazing in the heat - I can only imagine what it would be like if the temperatures were bearable.
Jun 15th, 2017, 01:19 PM
#36
Wishing you cooler temperatures in Barcelona. We were comfortable there in early July.
For the future, I have been to Seville and Granada twice, both times in late October and early November and the temperatures were perfect, sunny days, warm not hot.
For the future, I have been to Seville and Granada twice, both times in late October and early November and the temperatures were perfect, sunny days, warm not hot.
Jun 17th, 2017, 09:22 AM
#37
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
TWO MEALS FROM HEAVEN, AN AIRPLANE FLIGHT AND BARCELONA
On our last night in Granada we had an early reservation at Estrallas de San Nicholas which we had found online while at home. Although as the crow flies it would have taken but a few moments to get to, because it was across the valley from the Alhambra/Parador it was a half hour taxi - we ate on the rooftop with an incredible view of the Alhambra across the ravine (I felt for the waiters who had to go up and down the stairs for each course) It was a superb meal - one to remember - scallops in a foie gras sauce and lamb shank with a morrocan touch. It was a bit of a challenge getting a taxi to get back to the Parador, but worth it.
we had to get up super early the next morning to catch our flight to Barcelona so the nice young man at the front desk arranged for a picnic for us to eat in our room before leaving. I'd left us 1.5 hours at the airport but we really didn't need it - it's a small airport and very efficient, reminded me of our home airport in Durango, CO.
1.5 hour flight on Vueling airlines and presto we were in Barcelona - big city shock.
We are staying at Hotel 1898 on La Rambla. The hotel is gracious, the room "well appointed " as they say (you know green marble in the bathroom) and more lights and plumbing that you need an engineering degree to understand, but the staff is sort of indifferent - efficient but not really helpful (everywhere else we've stayed the staff has been amazing). This may just be big city energy - so many people passing through. What was distressing is that the air wasn't on in the room and wasn't working properly (they did fix it) and in this heat it meant the room was really stuffy.
The room wasn't ready when we got there so we grabbed a bite to eat and when it still wasn't ready we took off to see the sights. (more later - time for dinner)
On our last night in Granada we had an early reservation at Estrallas de San Nicholas which we had found online while at home. Although as the crow flies it would have taken but a few moments to get to, because it was across the valley from the Alhambra/Parador it was a half hour taxi - we ate on the rooftop with an incredible view of the Alhambra across the ravine (I felt for the waiters who had to go up and down the stairs for each course) It was a superb meal - one to remember - scallops in a foie gras sauce and lamb shank with a morrocan touch. It was a bit of a challenge getting a taxi to get back to the Parador, but worth it.
we had to get up super early the next morning to catch our flight to Barcelona so the nice young man at the front desk arranged for a picnic for us to eat in our room before leaving. I'd left us 1.5 hours at the airport but we really didn't need it - it's a small airport and very efficient, reminded me of our home airport in Durango, CO.
1.5 hour flight on Vueling airlines and presto we were in Barcelona - big city shock.
We are staying at Hotel 1898 on La Rambla. The hotel is gracious, the room "well appointed " as they say (you know green marble in the bathroom) and more lights and plumbing that you need an engineering degree to understand, but the staff is sort of indifferent - efficient but not really helpful (everywhere else we've stayed the staff has been amazing). This may just be big city energy - so many people passing through. What was distressing is that the air wasn't on in the room and wasn't working properly (they did fix it) and in this heat it meant the room was really stuffy.
The room wasn't ready when we got there so we grabbed a bite to eat and when it still wasn't ready we took off to see the sights. (more later - time for dinner)
Jun 18th, 2017, 06:05 AM
#38
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 1,217
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
WONDERFUL CRAZY BARCELONA
Barcelona is one wacky effin city - sort of like New Orleans on steroids and then some - also so beautiful. Half the buildings have wonderful wacky art and the other half are classic beauties with carvings and intricate designs from the 18th and 19th centuries. As you walk around make sure to look up, not just down.
There are street artists, gelaterias, cafes and stores everywhere - a girl from a small town's shopping heaven. (I actually made it through most of the trip without buying much but my discipline is breaking down)
OK - museums first. We started off with the museum of the history of Barcelona wanting to get sort of an overview of the timeline of all that has occurred here. While it was very cool to see the underground excavations we were sort of disappointed - it was sort of a collection of found objects with a BBC voice explanation on the audio guide, but not the overview we had hoped for.
We then went to the Picasso - again a bit disappointing, especially given the line. We had hoped for a sampling of his work, but it mostly had either very early (pre-1920's) or very late (1950's) but almost none of his cubist or other works. Still enjoyed what we did see.
Maritime museum - really liked this one, not a big museum but well laid out in a nice space and a fascinating and well done exhibit about life on a galley in the 15th and 16th centuries (with a life size replica to view and excellent audio and video explanations) .
FOOD: The first night we had booked ahead of time a relatively early 7:30 reservation at Dos Cielos at the Melia Sky hotel. We were so hot and sweaty and were tempted to bail but I'm so glad we didn't - it was one of those peak experiences I shall never forget. It is a Michelin rated restaurant and perhaps the most fun meal I've ever had
It was about a half hour drive from our hotel so we were wondering where we were, the restaurant is on the 24th floor with an incredible view of the city. We were greeted and treated like royalty. Although a bit nervous about what it would entail we decided to try the tasting menu since we have never done so before. ten course - as far as I can remember here it is:
1. puff pastry with wasabi cream filling
2. risotto nori cracker with mini shrimps
3. crab stuffed gyoza
4. frissee salad with reconstructed stuffed tomato and apple/tomato cocktail with brazilian pepper (can't explain - it just worked)
5. Stuffed asparagus
6. John Dory fish
7. kid roasted for 12 hours
(oops forgot appetizer 4 - deep fried ear of suckling pig)
9. green tea ice cream
10 chocolate, passion fruit, mango dessert concoction
The service was exquisite, and we just staggered out saying "we'll ever eat like this again" - I can't recommend it highly enough.
Yesterday we took a tour focused on the Spanish Civil War in Barcelona with Spanish civil war tours with Nick Lloyd - it was powerful enough that it deserves it's own post.
Today we went to Parc Geull - we had booked the tour of the monuments district and it was worth it as we got to see the heart of the parc, and it was really informative, putting the parc into historic and architechtural perspective. What can one say about Gaudi - amazing, inspiring and just so dog gone fun! If I lived here I would be there every week. In a bit we leave for the Sagrada Familia, so I shall fill you in on that and the Spanish Civil War Tour another time.
Barcelona is one wacky effin city - sort of like New Orleans on steroids and then some - also so beautiful. Half the buildings have wonderful wacky art and the other half are classic beauties with carvings and intricate designs from the 18th and 19th centuries. As you walk around make sure to look up, not just down.
There are street artists, gelaterias, cafes and stores everywhere - a girl from a small town's shopping heaven. (I actually made it through most of the trip without buying much but my discipline is breaking down)
OK - museums first. We started off with the museum of the history of Barcelona wanting to get sort of an overview of the timeline of all that has occurred here. While it was very cool to see the underground excavations we were sort of disappointed - it was sort of a collection of found objects with a BBC voice explanation on the audio guide, but not the overview we had hoped for.
We then went to the Picasso - again a bit disappointing, especially given the line. We had hoped for a sampling of his work, but it mostly had either very early (pre-1920's) or very late (1950's) but almost none of his cubist or other works. Still enjoyed what we did see.
Maritime museum - really liked this one, not a big museum but well laid out in a nice space and a fascinating and well done exhibit about life on a galley in the 15th and 16th centuries (with a life size replica to view and excellent audio and video explanations) .
FOOD: The first night we had booked ahead of time a relatively early 7:30 reservation at Dos Cielos at the Melia Sky hotel. We were so hot and sweaty and were tempted to bail but I'm so glad we didn't - it was one of those peak experiences I shall never forget. It is a Michelin rated restaurant and perhaps the most fun meal I've ever had
It was about a half hour drive from our hotel so we were wondering where we were, the restaurant is on the 24th floor with an incredible view of the city. We were greeted and treated like royalty. Although a bit nervous about what it would entail we decided to try the tasting menu since we have never done so before. ten course - as far as I can remember here it is:
1. puff pastry with wasabi cream filling
2. risotto nori cracker with mini shrimps
3. crab stuffed gyoza
4. frissee salad with reconstructed stuffed tomato and apple/tomato cocktail with brazilian pepper (can't explain - it just worked)
5. Stuffed asparagus
6. John Dory fish
7. kid roasted for 12 hours
(oops forgot appetizer 4 - deep fried ear of suckling pig)
9. green tea ice cream
10 chocolate, passion fruit, mango dessert concoction
The service was exquisite, and we just staggered out saying "we'll ever eat like this again" - I can't recommend it highly enough.
Yesterday we took a tour focused on the Spanish Civil War in Barcelona with Spanish civil war tours with Nick Lloyd - it was powerful enough that it deserves it's own post.
Today we went to Parc Geull - we had booked the tour of the monuments district and it was worth it as we got to see the heart of the parc, and it was really informative, putting the parc into historic and architechtural perspective. What can one say about Gaudi - amazing, inspiring and just so dog gone fun! If I lived here I would be there every week. In a bit we leave for the Sagrada Familia, so I shall fill you in on that and the Spanish Civil War Tour another time.
Jun 18th, 2017, 09:17 AM
#39
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 9,655
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I'm really enjoying your report. It is very informative and helpful. I'm taking notes for our trip in October.
I hope you continue to have a wonderful time. We thoroughly enjoyed Barcelona a few years ago.
I hope you continue to have a wonderful time. We thoroughly enjoyed Barcelona a few years ago.
Jun 18th, 2017, 11:09 AM
#40
wow, Laura, I just caught up with your fabulous trip. Loving the detail, especially of course the food. You can add us to the list of people who prefer to have a good lunch [especially when you can get a good value menu de dia] and tapas/raciones for dinner.
looking forward to reading more about your experiences in Barcelona.
looking forward to reading more about your experiences in Barcelona.
