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Landing in Rome, then what?

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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 04:59 PM
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Landing in Rome, then what?

We will be landing in Rome (due to American's frequent flyer miles) and we are open to the expertise from the Fodor's nation for planning our trip.

We have been to Positano on our last, and first, trip to Italy, and had a wonderful time due primarily to the assitance from experienced Fodor's travelers.

We love the combination of mountains meeting ocean. We love quiet, historic hill towns.

We would greatly appreicate and be open to your suggestions.

This trip is for May 09 for 10 days, two adults (our 33 anniversary no less). Our buget is a moderate one,
$250 for hotel, plus expenses.

Looking forward to your feedback,

Happy trails,

Aranda
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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 07:08 PM
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May is a really beautiful time to head in the other direction, up the coast. You have two choices, and the first is really only doable with a car:

The area of the Maremma, with its incomparable hidden, untouristed hilltowns, combined with the beach areas Castiglione della Pescaia (or perhaps, better yet, a trip to the island Elba)

or

the dramatic seacoast of Liguria, in and around Cinque Terre, combining visits to northern Tuscan towns. For the northern Tuscan towns, it would help to have a car if you want hilltowns rather than towns on the plains, but even without one, you can see some memorable places and sights with train connections.

Either itinerary would live you no time in Roma, and if you want to do that this trip, I would suggest splitting your time between Roma and probably the Maremma.

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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 07:09 PM
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... or, I meant to say, splitting your time between Roma and the Maremma (with a car) or Roma and an island.
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Old Jul 28th, 2008, 10:32 PM
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There is the obvious of Tuscany and Umbria. May is a wonderful time to be there. Perfect for flying in/out of Rome. Many, many posts on the board for these locations.

I'm happy to share my trip report and photos. It's mostly Tuscany, but I hope to spend more time in Umbria in the future.

http://travelswithdiane.homestead.co...13Tuscany.html
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 12:34 AM
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Umbria is the place for you. Plenty of Etruscan or medieval hill towns, much cheaper than Tuscany and with amazing landscapes! In places like Narni, Acquasparta, San Gemini and so on you will be at a few miles from the main Umbrian tourist attractions (Spoleto, Perugia, Orvieto...) in cheap accommodations, having the possibility to enjoy the fantastic local food. If you are also planning to rent a car, unmissable places in Lazio (like the thermal baths in Viterbo and Rome) and the gorgeous Monte Argentario in Tuscany (which fits more the combination of mountain meeting sea) will be reachable in less than 2 hours.

May is perfect!

Have fun
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 04:12 AM
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Maybe I'm reading the above post incorrectly, but I have to disagree that basing in Umbria allows for trips to the coast or places like Viterbo in less than 2 hours, even with a car.

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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 05:10 AM
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OK, you love the mountains and quiet seaside resorts...but have you spent any time in Rome itself?
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 05:19 AM
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We just did Liguria and Tuscany during the last two weeks of May.

In CT you have spectacular panoramics, like Campania. Below CT is Portovenere, and above is Santa Margherita and Portofino.

We opted to stay in Levanto b/c of price and location, as we knew we wanted to visit the Tuscany coast, especially Pietrasanta. The hotel with view of Mediterranean and little port and beach with balcony was 100 euro/night. So for us this location worked well.

Levanto is great b/c it is more Italian feeling and away from all the tourists that are in the CT or Santa Margherita. Water taxi from Levanto goes to all CT and to Portovenere. This is a great way to travel and see the area. Hiking for those who like it is great here also.

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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 07:43 AM
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Thanks everyone! You have provided trememdous research possibliities. We will check this all out, some places I have not heard of.

Zeppole: you mentioned Roma and an island, what island(s) do you recommend?

Sueciv: No we have not visited Roma, coming from NYC we wanted to stay away from big cities. But, this may be a mistake, considering it's Roma.

WebivisionItaly: Didn't know about Levanto, any specific info you can share would be appreciatd.

Also, as my husband is a reluctant traveler so a car may be too much angst, we would probably travel on trains, etc.

Would the island of Ischia be reaonsably accessable from Roma?

We appreciate your taking the time and sharing your expertise.

Love you guys,
Aranda
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 09:32 AM
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You go to Napoli to get a ferry to Ischia. I don't believe you can get one from Roma, but I don't know for sure.

The island I was thinking of is Elba, which is the largest, and probably has the most accommodations and the most English spoken. The smaller of island of Giglio is popular with Italians for day trips. Both islands are easily accessed from ferry points along the coastline above Roma, and a coastal train can take you there.

Because you mentioned mountains and the sea, you are likely to be encouraged to go to Monte Argentario, which has three towns: Orbitello (which actually faces a lagoon, not the sea), Porto Santo Stefano, which is popular holiday marina, and Porto Ercole, which is the most atmospheric of the ports (historic fortress walls crest the hilltops) but in general, if you liked the mountainous drama of the Amalfi coast, you will find nothing comparable until you are well above Tuscany, and into Liguria.

What you will find on the islands in May is a very sweet atmosphere of sun and sea, great food and relaxation.

Without a car, it is hard to enjoy the hilltowns of Italy. But if you can live without the sea for this vacation, Umbria has a better infrastructure of trains and buses for seeing more than one town, all of them filled with memorable art and architecture. It is just next to impossible to fit a beach trip into a schedule of day tripping if you stay in Umbria.
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Old Jul 29th, 2008, 09:35 AM
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PS: I made several extended trips to Italy before every seeing Roma, other than to pass through. I always had other priorities, and I didn't want to race around Roma sightseeing. I've since been for an extended time, still haven't seen all that I want to, and will return. But if you feel like going to Roma this trip, you can have a cheaper trip more to your personal liking elsewhere without a problem.
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Old Jul 31st, 2008, 08:42 AM
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Many thanks, now I have excellent research possiblities to explore, Liguria, Elba, Levanto, etc. I'll check back in when I have more specific questions.

Zeppole, Your suggestions were specific. You rock!

Aranda

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Old Jul 31st, 2008, 09:44 AM
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Aranda,

Levanto (video of entire area coming soon) is literally three minutes by train to Monterosso. There is also an easy water taxi from Levanto to all the CT and also Portovenere. The views from the water taxi rocked!

Levanto is a quiet town made up mostly of locals. In fact, we only ran into other tourists in the hotel. We stayed at Hotel Garden - Staff was excellent and helpful. Room was clean, and the price was great.

We spent two days exploring CT by water taxi (i'm not into hiking all day on cliffs).

We spent another day from there visiting Northern Tuscany, Pietrasanta (which video should be done by Saturday - the CT coming soon), Cararra and Forte di Marmi (wife loves Boccelli - fortunately for me there were no sightings!)

Levanto restaurants were plenty, lots of fish and of course pesto. The entire town is quiet by 10P, with a slice of pizza still available.

We did not need a car from here given our itinerary.

The CT is a little too much in the tourist department for our taste to stay overnight.

With 9 or 10 days be careful how much trvaeling you plan to do. Getting out to an Island could burn at least one full day (1/2 day out, 1/2 day back), and realistically much more.
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Old Jul 31st, 2008, 10:26 AM
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web,

True, but getting to an island involves a boat ride on the Mediterranean, so that counts for something in the fun department.

Since aranda has no choice but to fly into Roma, pairing Rome with a trip to Liguria/Levanto is going to "burn" more than half a day for sure, and it's a long train ride.

For a 9-day trip, it's really six of one, half a dozen of the other in terms of travel time. I do think though, that without a car, it's not easy to move around Liguria, which is why it might make sense to split the vacation in some fashion to get a mix.

But one possibility for avid sea lovers might be to do one of the islands in the Tuscan archipelago, then ferry to Livorno (if possible) and catch a train there for either Cinque Terre for more seaside views or head for some of the northern Tuscan towns on the train line. Lucca might make a very nice base, with sightseeing opportunities by train to the big ticket places like Firenze and Pisa, or the lesser touristed Pistoia or Montecatini Terme, etc.


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Old Jul 31st, 2008, 10:43 AM
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I fyou are really open to a new experiecne, how about the Abruzzo and Le Marche (the Marches)? They have towns that truly fulfill the mountains meeting seacoast experience. You won't be tripping over other tourists yet these areas have much to offer.

Search The Abruzzo National Park, the Mielle Mountains, Ancona, Ortona, Lanciano, Monte Conero, Sirolo, Vasto if you want to see something different, be very well fed and served by folks that see fewer tourists and therefore tend to be happier to greet them and have an experience that is not the typical Tuscany-Umbria-Amalfi-CT-Rome-Venice-Firenze routine.
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Old Jul 31st, 2008, 10:49 AM
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LJ,

They haven't got a car. Having been all over Le Marche, I really don't think you can see much of what's fantastic about the place without a car.

I've not Abruzzo, so can't comment on that.

But I will also say that if people would just go 20 minutes beyond le Cinque Terre, even on the train line, they won't find American tourists, and few non-native Italian tourists either. And I bet I could spend 4 months touring Tuscany and never see another non-Italian tourist.

I grasp your general point, and certainly much of Abruzzo and Le Marche are great pickings for getting away from the tourist industry, but it's actually only a tiny part of Italy that is mobbed by foreigners.
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Old Jul 31st, 2008, 12:42 PM
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Z...oops, missed the part about the OP's angst about the car, though I do get that. I am a huge fan of this area having lived there. I don't drive myself and had to/got to explore much of the Abruzzo by bus and train on days when DH was teaching and I wasn't...while it is doable, it is NOT ideal. Your point about getting 20 minutes outside the major tourist attractions anywhere in Italy is worth noting.

I think Aranda has been given a lot of inspiration and I will lay off my cheerleading for my favourite region.
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Old Aug 1st, 2008, 05:58 PM
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If one of you just came along with us to Italy that would solve everything!
We're checking every suggestion, nothing is dismissed.
I do love that you all "get it" and actually know what I/we want even without actually articulating it.
I never was about crowds and popular tourist type things (i.e. I only go to the beach off season). When we went to Positano we used that as our base and our favorite part was hiking and going to the small hill towns where we were the only tourists.

But seriously, does the Fodor's nation ever get together for trips/exploring? Just wondering, it would be great fun to meet up and do some traveling with people who know the ropes.

Aranda
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Old Aug 1st, 2008, 06:25 PM
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What? And be with other tourists?



I'm a lousy travel companion.

Besides, I already live in Italy, so that won't work.

I always hesitate to suggest bus travel to people when the visit Italy because for most people it's just too daunting to read the bus skeds online and plan a trip. I hop on buses all the time where I live, but it's easier to get to know the sked and the lay of the land when you live there for a while. That said, if you're fearless, the buses are a great resource in Italy, and often more punctual than the train.

Aranda, if your favorite part of Positano was climbing uphill where there wasn't wasn't anybody else, don't go to Cinque Terre in Liguria. Go to the park of the Monte Portofino. By staying in Camogli or Santa Margherita Liguria, or Rapallo (all on the train line), you can hike in the national park and see spectacular views, or take boats to beautiful beach enclaves, and really have the place to yourself.

http://www.parcoportofino.it/parco.a...ice=0000000006

http://www.cnn.com/TRAVEL/DESTINATIO...camogli.italy/

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=trAMa...ture=related\\

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Old Aug 1st, 2008, 06:28 PM
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I for one think Ischia would be fabulous in May.

In fact, a combo of Ischia and
and Rome would be perfect.


Land in Rome, then go to Naples by train to get the ferry to Ischia.

Have fun on Ischia, reverse course, end up in Rome, spending a little time there before you fly home.

Give yourselves a taste of Rome; you may love it.

We have been several times, and only saw the underground Scavi tour of the Vatican and Ostia Antica on our most recent trip in May. Rome has many, many wonders.

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