amy

Kiki,<BR><BR>Your trip sounds fantastic. Could you provide me with more information on Passamaneria Valmar or the other store you mentioned. Where are they? Thanks much!

kiki

Hi Amy,<BR><BR>In Florence, the Passamaneria Valmar is located on the Piazza Lorenzo. The address is Porta Rossa 53r, and it has a pretty big storefront. This is the larger store of the two (I have to get the other name tonight - the bag is at a friend's house) and you will be more than satisfied with this store! They have beautiful tassles and trimmings, pillows already made, tablethrows, seat cushions, etc. Luckily, I stuffed a duffle in my luggage so I could throw these light but bulky purchases in it, and check it (if you do this, remember to bring an extra luggage lock). <BR><BR>Also, forgot to mention that the northern section of Italy (Milan and Venice) have the BEST selection of eyewear and the best prices!

kiki

Here are my recommendations for the Amalfi region:<BR><BR>From Naples to Positano: hire a car service. They will pick you up at the train tracks in the Naples train station, walk you to their new Mercedes, and whisk you off. We opted for a 2 hour stopover at the ruins of Herculeanum b/c it was on the way to Positano and we knew that it would be a pain to get back there, using the trains, buses, etc from Positano. Herculeanum was better than Pompeii b.c it is better preserved - if you have time for only one site, do this one. The car service with the 2 hour layover cost us 140 Euro plus tip (around $75 per person), and was well worth it. <BR><BR>Hotel in Positano - we stayed 3 nites in Positano at the Villa La Tartana. We had the largest room available, a suite, and it was literally 2 rooms - clean and huge, plus very nice service. Downside - no view from our balcony of the town to see the sparkling lites at nite; upside - near the beach to catch the ferry to Amalfi and Capri. The room cost 140 Euro per night and was a steal - if you are traveling with kids, there are 2 single beds that are used as couches in the sitting room of this suite.<BR><BR>We hopped the ferry from Positano to Amalfi. Highly recommend this - the very is terrific, it takes about 30-45 minutes, and is alot more comfortable than riding the bus up and down around this car-sick windy roads (it doesn't feel as bad in a car rather than the bus). Will Continue with Amalfi in the next posting installment.

kiki

The next installment on Amalfi: <BR><BR>By the way, we looked at a bunch of other hotels in Positano, and for a great view, the Villa Rosa was fantastic. We looked at the rooms and liked them very much. They are a block from Le Sirenuse and are very reasonable. Ditto for L'Ancora, which is next to Le Sirenuse but 1/2 the price. <BR><BR>Back to Amalfi - we got off the ferry, and bought our bus ticket to Ravello at the convenience store across the street.<BR>Amalfi is more commercialized than Positano, so we were happy to have stayed in Positano. But we did enjoy visiting Amalfi - the exterior of the main church in town was exquisite. Also, since this region is known for its lemons, you can pick up dry pasta infused with lemon for 2.5 Euro, and this delicious dark chocolate bars infused with lemon for 3 Euro. It is really hard to find the dark chocolate ones, and I found a store in Amalfi on a small street across from the church - they have a limoncello factory sign outside their door. You can find the white chocolate with lemon everywhere, but it is really sweet. By the way, limoncello tastes like vodka and lemonade but not too sweet - it was a little strong for my taste, but lots of people love it!<BR><BR>Next installment on Ravello to be posted shortly.

kiki

Next installment - on to Ravello!<BR><BR>We hopped the bus to Ravello - our bus left at 11 am, and we were there early. Good thing b.c the bus gets packed. So to ensure a seat, don't wait to the last minute to get to the bus. Also, don't eat lunch before going on the bus b/c it is really windy and car-sick inducing. Lots of the tourists looked a little green once they got off the bus. The bus has its upside - our driver stopped at a local market on the road, and picked up his groceries thru his window!<BR><BR>Ravello is VERY high up, affording the best view. The bus drops you off, and you can either walk through a quick tunnel to the main square (on the left) or walk right to other sights. We went to the main square, and headed off for lunch at Cumpa Cosimo. Everybody writes about this place, and it was the best fettucini with bolognese sauce I had. The pasta was ultra lite (almost translucent) and the sauce was light too - mostly veal, with little tomato sauce. Their wine comes out of a wooden barrel and it was fantastic at 2 Euro! We got there early since we didn't have a reservation, and it was full when we left. <BR><BR>We then walked to the Villa Cimbrone gardens - there is a small fee, but worth it. They are beautiful and the views are awesome. <BR><BR>Shopping in Ravello - Ceramics - in the square next to Cumpa Cosimo is a factory (they tout that Town & Country magazine reviewed them) called Ceramiche d'Arte at via Dei Rufolo, 16. They had unique designs and good prices. Beware that it costs ALOT to ship ceramics back, so if you plan on buying any, you may want to pick up one or two pieces and carry them on board. If you are into Coral, there is a really nice small store in the main square of Ravello. Speaking of Coral, if you are really into it, in Herculeunum (Herculo in Italian) the Hotel Vittoria in its basement has the largest coral store I have ever seen. You have to be careful buying coral on the street b/c it could be plastic. So if you want the authentic stuff, go to a good store, but remember to bargain!<BR><BR>Took the bus back to Ravello - the only good thing about it was that it cost 2 Euro!<BR><BR>Shopping in Positano: Ceramics - the store with the most interesting and unique designs was in Positano at Umberto Carro, on Via Pasitea, 32/34. I bought a bowl here that everyone at home raves about!<BR><BR>Dining: We loved a new restaurant called La Strada in Priano (take a cab there - 15 minutes from Positano or you can stop there on the way back from Ravello b/c the bus goes by and it will save you 15 Euro for the one-way car service). The atmosphere was great, the food amazing and the prices ridiculously low. A plate of succulent lambchops was 14 Euro! The wine list is extensive, and you will not be disappointed. We met a dr and his wife that went there twice (he is a real foodie from San Francisco, so I trusted his judgement, and he was right).<BR>We also ate a Bruno's in Positano - more casual, same pricing, not nuovo cuisine. The pasta was homemade, but on the heavy side. The service was very nice and you can walk there from the hotel.<BR><BR>By the way, I forgot to mention in the Venice installment that you should order Prosecco (from that region) - it is a sparkling white wine that I was already familiar with, less effervesence than champagne. It is really wonderful.<BR><BR>Next onto Capri - stayed tuned!

kiki

One more shopping note in Positano: the raffia or straw bags are the rage this season in NYC, and I found this store in Positano that had great raffia handbags. I bought this huge striped beach tote with bamboo handles for 27 Euro at a store called Anager (a block down from Umberto Carro, the ceramics store that you MUST go into). <BR><BR>On to Capri - We caught the ferry from Positano - the cost around 12 Euro. It takes about an hour and is a lovely ride. We had our luggage since we stayed in Capri for 2 nites. I cannot stress enough that staying overnight in Capri is essential to get the flavor of the island. When you disembark from the ferry, a porter will ask you what hotel to take your luggage to (around 3 Euro per bag). You give them your luggage, then turn right, and walk to the funicular station to buy a ticket up to CapriTown. You buy the ticket, then ride the funicular up, and voila, you are in CapriTown! We walked to our hotel (no cars in the center are allowed) La Minerva, and our luggage was already there. You can also take a cab up, but then you have to hire the porter to take it to your hotel once the cab drops you off near CapriTown. <BR><BR>We liked our hotel, except it was a little bit of an uphill walk (5-10 minutes) to the center of CapriTown. The plus was that it was more neighborhood-ish, so we got a better feel of the community. We checked out several hotels, and next time will probably stay at Hotel Luna - better location, great views, and not much more money. La Minerva was 150 Euro, and Hotel Luna was around 180 Euro. <BR><BR>More on Capri to come...

kiki

Travelog continued:<BR><BR>A note if you are going to see Herculeanum or Pompeii. Go to the bookstore at either of these 2 places, and buy this small hardcovered book that has lots of pictures with plastic overlays of what the ruins looked like before they were destroyed. When you see the ruins in person, it is hard to tell what they are for that matter, let alone what they looked like. This book with the overlays shows you this, so when you see a wall with one column, you can visualize what it really looked like before Mt. Vesuvius erupted about 2000 years ago. It added so much meaning to the visit and everyone at home loved looking thru the book with these plastic overlays. The book is pretty small, like the size of fodors about 1/2 inch thick, and cost 10 Euro - well worth it. Also, rent the audio there b/c there is so much info that you will not take in, unless you get the audio. If you have a large group, then you can hire a guide at 90 Euro, but we felt that the audio and book were more than plenty.<BR><BR>Also, I forgot to mention above about buying wooden inlay boxes. We had our driver take us to a factory store called Miss Bellevue outside of Sorrento at the address 21-80062 meta De Sorrento. Their prices were very good, and we bought 2 inlay wooden boxes made of olive wood, with the inlay a scene of Positano - beautiful!<BR><BR>Okay - I know that I get sidetracked, but want to make sure that all you nice Fodorites get the real scoop to help you on your trip. Back to Capri...<BR><BR>On our arrival day, we walked past the restaurant La Capanina (the food looked very fresh), to the famous Capri gardens which overlook the cliffs - it's free to go in, and beautiful! <BR><BR>Then, we hopped the bus (a block from where the funicular drops you off, around the corner from the Prada store) to Anacapri. It is a quiet town, so it could be done in 2 hours, tops. We walked 15 minutes to the small church with the famous mosaic floor (small admission), then walked the opposite direction to the Munthe gardens - it cost 5 Euro and was just beautiful with great views of the coast, plus a tour of Munthe's home (was a famous Capri resident). We took the bus back to Capritown and headed to dinner.<BR><BR>Dining in Capri: Aurora (in CapriTown) - excellent pettzania (spelled this phonetically) fish wrapped in a potato crust. This fish is only available in Capri and we had it 3 times - it was best here. We had 3 course and it cost 30 Euro per person and was all excellent, including the vegetable soup.<BR><BR>Restaurant Biberius - nuovo cuisine, and one of the most hip restaurants in Capri. The hearts of palm salad was fantastic, and the polenta and mushrooms was amazing. The pettzania was very good, but not as excellent as at Aurora's and was more expensive. The salad, polenta and pastas were not as pricey. Beware about ordering fresh fish in the Amalfi region - sometimes you pay for fish by weight and it is VERY expensive. Make sure that you order fish from the regular menu and that the price is for the serving, not weight. At Aurora, the pettzania fish with potato crust was priced around 16 Euro total; at Biberius it was much more by the gram.<BR><BR>More on Capri to come...

Lesley

Kiki you are a true Fodorite-gem...I have printed off great gobs of your trip info for our next adventure...thank you and keep it up, I am waiting breathlessly.

kiki

Thanks, Lesley! I am so glad that you find the info helpful. I really enjoy sharing the info and reliving the great moments of the trip (just about the whole trip!). All the fodorites helped me so much before I went, so it's time to give back and share the wealth of info.<BR>

kiki

I'm back to continue with Capri recommendations:<BR><BR>A note on Biberius - the staff were so nice and friendly, and the chef was absolutely handsome! But the service was very slow. So don't get worried when they take your order and you wait a while. In fact, you can tell the waiter that you know the girl that came in April that corrected the English translations on their menu! For such a chic restaurant, the translations weren't good, so I asked our waiter (tall, thin, dark hair and glasses) if he wanted my help. He was so happy, sat down with me, and with pen in hand, I corrected the typos, etc. on their menu! Have a great time here, and if you're lucky they will give your their home-made limoncello (boy, that stuff is strong - the drink, that is!).<BR><BR>More inexpensive gift ideas: the grocery stores (not the enotecas) have great prices on cookies, gum, etc. that is made in Italy. I brought back these creme filled cookies that come in a white tube with red lettering (sorry, but my family already ate them up, so I don't have the packaging to retrieve the brand name). They cost under 2 Euro per roll, packed really well, and were so yummy (one side of the cookie is chocolate, the other vanilla, with vanilla creme). Also, there is this cool gum from Italy that comes in coffee flavors, etc. without sugar (sensa zucchero). It was really cheap and I brought them back too as little gifts. Everybody loved them! Also, if you get thirsty for small bottles of water, the grocery stores charge .75 Euro per bottle, vs. the enoteca charges around 1.50 per bottle. Alot of times, the hotel room minibar has the water bottles, and don't charge you for it, so make sure to check the policy that they come with the room, and bring them with you during the day.<BR><BR>Shopping in Capri - by gosh - this is designer heaven! It is like a compact NYC 5th Avenue, or a Rodeo Drive from Beverly Hills. If you can afford it, go for it! I loved window shopping, and did find a bargain. There is a shoe store called Y2K RC, located around the corner from the Ferragamo shoppe. If you are walking down the slope of the street, Ferragamo is on your right on a corner. Make a right at that corner, then a quick right again. The store is on the left, one block up the hill. Everyone in Italy wears shoes that are Tod's or similar (colored leather sneakers that are not bulky like here, but sleek and chic). This store has ones from the fall season (but the colors are springlike too) for so cheap. I got a pair in a periwinkle blue and white for 50 Euro, and the regular price was 286 Euro! <BR><BR>Also, Hogan shoes are really popular (made by Tod's but more sturdy - less driving shoe-ish). They were a little more pricey - 215 Euro per pair, but they go for twice that at home. The Hogan store was in CapriTown, past the Quisisana Hotel, on the left. You can get Hogan in Florence too, and I think the store is bigger. Hogan is really cutting edge in NYC, so if you can afford it, do it! The next time I go back, I'll get a pair of Hogans (my friend did, and I am so envious!).<BR><BR><BR><BR>

kiki

The travelog in Capri continues:<BR><BR>On our last full day in Capri, we decided to check out the Blue Grotto that everyone talks about. To our dismay, the concierge told us that morning around 8 am that it would be closed for the day b/c of choppy water! Choppy water? I didn't understand - it was a clear blue sky day, the water looked fine - we were so disappointed. I asked him if they would open up later, and he replied, usually not. If they are closed in the morning, then most likely, they remain closed. So, we made alternate plans to do the hike that the concierge recommended, have lunch on this pretty beach/cove and come back. <BR><BR>Being the persistent bugger that I am, we walked into town and I said, "Let's stop at the concierge desk of the Hotel Quisisana, and ask if they can call again." Only 10 minutes had transpired, but I want what I want! So, my friend laughed, and said, "if anyone can find out, you can!" (She knows this for a fact b/c I was able to get her a frequent flyer miles ticket to Europe with 40,000 miles 3 weeks before we left for Italy. Yes, hard to believe but we decided to go to Italy 3 weeks before we left!). Back to the story.<BR><BR>So, the hotel called, and voila - the Blue Grotto would open in 10 minutes! We ran out of the Quisisana, hopped the funicular down to the Marina to buy our tickets, and off we went.<BR><BR>A note on buying the ticket to the Grotto (oh, I forgot but there is an Emerald Grotto between Positano and Amalfi that you can see too. We didn't and I have no clue what it's like, but wanted to share that info with you in case you are interested). When you get off of the funicular, the marina where the big boats dock is in front of you. Walk towards it and there is a little hut with speedboats on either side. This is where you buy the first ticket to the Grotto - it costs around 8 Euro. This boat holds about 20 people, and you take it on a 1/2 hour ride to the Blue Grotto, and transfer onto a small rowboat/canoe with a captain that rows you into the grotto. This small rowboat costs another 6 Euro. All together, the Blue Grotto is 14 Euro per person. There is another ticket that you can buy at the Marina that is an excursion around the island on the boat and includes the 8 Euro price - don't do this unless you want to go around the whole island. I don't think that it is worth it and it is alot more expensive than the 8 Euro ticket. Just make sure you know what you are buying.<BR><BR>More on the Blue Grotto to come.....

encore

More!

Jon

Kiki,<BR><BR>I love your story-telling! I feel like I am traveling in Capri right now. Please tell us more........

MC

Hi Kiki,<BR>Thanks for all the wonderful info! Just curious, which escorted tour company did you use to see Siena and San Gim.? We'll be leaving for Florence in a couple of weeks and was planning on visiting Siena and San G. on our own. But since we were only going to spend a day doing this, we thought an escorted tour would be better. We have 6 people traveling in our group . . . so any suggestions you may have would be greatly appreciated!<BR><BR>Thanks again!<BR>MC

kiki

Hi MC,<BR><BR>Totally go with a guide. I liked the Florence tourguide from www.ToursByRoberto.com that gave us the 3 hour walking tour in Florence. Their email address is [email protected]. I arranged everything online, and then called them in Italy the day before the tour started (just to confirm that all was well). I did not use them for our San Gimignano/Siena trip and wish that I had, b/c it would have been much more targeted for what we want. Also, I thought that Elena, our guide, was much more forthcoming with information than our guide on the SG/Siena trip from the other company. Tours by Roberto emailed me about a 3-hour tour in Siena, with the cost for 5-6 people being around 135 Euro total. That was if we met him in Siena. I am sure that they can arrange for a car/van to take your group to SG and Siena. I hope that you have a great time - Both towns are terrific! Just bring really good walking shoes or sneakers b/c it is all walking up and down cobblestone streets in Florence, and hilly in SG and Siena. <BR><BR>I'll post the continued Blue Grotto story later....

kiki

Before I get back to the Blue Grotto,<BR>just a couple of quick pointers:<BR><BR>1. If you are looking for brocades, table runners, fringes and tassels, the biggest store in Florence is called Passamaneria Toscana, at Piazza San Lorenzo 12r. The smaller shop that has beautiful trimmings, fringes, tassles is called Passamaneria Valmar at Porta Rossa 53r (2 blocks from Torno Beacci and the fancy designer shops).<BR><BR>2. Post-notes on Murano dining(island next to Venice): The best restaurant for lunch is Antica Trattoria Valmarana, at Fond. Navagero, 31. To get there, take the Vaporetto from Venice to Murano's Navagero stop. When you get off the Vaparotto, turn left, and walk along the canal for 3 minutes. You will see a few tables with white tablecloths. They also have a garden to dine in the back, but it is nice to grab one of these 3 tables by the water. The fish and lobster were fantastic!<BR><BR><BR>3. Post-note on Murano glass shopping. There are 2 Cedenese glass factories. We went to the "Gino Cedenese" factory that my friend from the US always goes to. As mentioned earlier, the jewelry was beautiful and very reasonable. Remember that their products are all handblown, and the ones that you get in Venice may be less expensive but not handblown. Depending on your budget and needs, have fun! Their address is Fond. S Venier 48/a. You will find it by walking along the Canal degli Angeli towards a tall church. At the church, there is a small street on the right. Turn right and the Cedenese sign is on the left. It is a little hard to find, but well worth it. <BR><BR>4. Buy a map - our saving grace in Venice was the "Let's Go Map Guide" that I bought at Barnes & Noble back home. It has the detail of all the streets in Venice, plus a full map that includes the islands, plus the vaporetto map. It is all laminated, so if it rains, it won't get ruined. Plus if folds nicely, so you don't end up opening this huge map and look extra-touristy!<BR><BR>The grotto is coming....<BR>

Jennie

Thank you so much for your advise! I have two weeks and I want to see Venice, Tuscany, and the Itilian Riviera. I want to spend most of my time in Tuscany. Where should I fly first? How long in Venice is enough? Are there things that you just wouldn't miss? Any input would really help me make my plans. Thanks! Jennie

Melissa

Hi Kiki,<BR><BR>I posted a question on another posting about Villa Rosa. Why should I request room # 18?<BR><BR>Thanks a million! Melissa

karen

thanks Kiki -- We did book the locanda barbarigo for Sept and we will have the smerelda room which I think is the one you stayed in. Looking forward to it.

kiki

Hi Karen,<BR><BR>So glad that you got that Esmerelda room! You are going to have a fantastic time. Their apricot croissants are so wonderful - the perfect way to start your Venice morning. Please let us know your thoughts. <BR><BR>Hi Melissa,<BR><BR>Room # 18 at Villa Rosa has the most spectacular view. It is on the corner so you get almost a 270 degree view, plus the balcony is the size of the room. Please, book it, and then write back after your trip about how amazing it was to sit on that balcony in the evening, sipping a nice drink, and looking at all of Positano's twinkling white lights!<BR><BR>Hi Jennie,<BR><BR>Your trip plans sound great! If time allows, you really need 4 full days to see Venice, and its neighboring islands, like Lido, Murano, Burano. Plus there is the villa region near Venice that is supposedly very beautiful, if time allows. Please see my description of must sees above for Venice. I didn't visit the Cinque Terre region on this trip, so I am not sure where you would want to begin. However, if you can fly directly into Venice, that would be a good start, then shoot down on the Eurostar to Florence and Tuscany area, and the up to Cinque Terre, flying out of Genoa, if you can. Have a nice time!