Keiracaitlyn

As always, I would like to thank everyone who posts here. Between those that responded directly to my questions, and those that posted their own experiences, I was able to put together a great plan for my brief 3-day Vienna vacation. About myself – I am an American female, vegetarian, non-smoker, non-drinker with bad knees and horrible allergies. My specific interests are architecture and art (particularly statues, ironwork, and stained glass), and historical narration/storytelling. I’m a practicing psychotherapist, so Freud’s life was of particular interest to me this trip. I also love the cultural arts of symphony and opera, but this was off-season so not a focus this trip. Usually a solo traveler, but a friend decided to join me at the last minute for this trip. After the first day, we went our separate ways due to varied interests and just met up for breakfast/dinner/gelato. I like to hit the ground running and then slow down over time (if I’m lucky enough to have a longer vacation).

Normally I plan trips 1-2 years in advance. Yeah, I’m one of those people who likes to have all the details worked out. This trip was originally planned for the week of Thanksgiving, but my teaching schedule for fall shifted a bit, and I decided to move it up to the break between Summer and Fall semesters instead –and as a 43rd birthday present to myself. So I had less than 2 months to plan, but I think I did a good job. I bought a Vienna Pass with transportation option, which paid for almost everything there. The attractions are very expensive – seemed about €10-20 per place – so it definitely paid for itself. I had my itinerary ready to go, and I left my birthday party to go hop on a plane – full of energy and excitement.

Then my best laid plans went awry. I got sick on the plane. Violently sick. I will spare you the details, but I went from feeling top of the world to bottom of the pit. Unfortunately, I dealt with some degree of upset stomach and nausea for the first two days of my trip. I did go to a pharmacy in Vienna, and the medication I got there did help. Ultimately, this seems to have been an allergic/exposure reaction of sorts – not something contagious.

Anyway, I flew British Airways from Atlanta to London, with a layover in London. I then flew on to Vienna. I had scheduled a driver to pick me up from the airport, since public transportation stops at midnight and my flight was arriving at 11pm. €27 through Vienna Airport Taxi website. The driver was on time, professional, and gave helpful info about the city during the drive. I would definitely use again. If you get a taxi to/from airport without pre-booking, it’s about €40. I arrived at my hotel, Hotel City Central. It’s on the edge of the 2nd district, just a few blocks walk from the inner city, and about 2 blocks from trams and metro station. It was a great location. Hotel room was nice, we had a double room (two twin beds pushed together). The hotel breakfast (included) was a lovely buffet of cheeses and meats, fruits and vegetables, eggs, breads and pastries, yogurt, juices, and more. I ate breakfast there each day. The staff was friendly and helpful. I would definitely stay here again.

***Day 1***

With me not feeling well and my friend being a bit out of sorts, we opted to not follow the itinerary and just spend the day getting oriented to the city. We walked around the inner city, through the shopping areas down to Hofburg Palace and the Museums Quarter. We did not go into any museums. Everything was labeled very discreetly (or not at all seemingly) which made it hard to figure out what we were looking at a lot of the time. Most all of the buildings in Vienna are just magnificent architecturally. We did go inside St. Stephen’s Cathedral, which was beautiful and ornate. At this point, neither one of us was loving Vienna. We got some gelato and headed back to the hotel room to call it a day. We discussed our plans, and decided to go in different directions for the rest of the trip – ultimately the best decision we could have made because we were both so much happier after that.

***Day 2***

Starting to feel better, I was determined to see the sites. I chose to pick up with my itinerary day 2. I got up a bit later than I had intended, so I skipped Karlskirche and headed down to Belvedere Palace. This was the only place that was not covered by my Vienna Pass so I had to pay admission for it (€20). I saw both upper and lower Belvedere, including the Klimt exhibit. It was truly beautiful and enjoyable, especially the gardens, and I began to feel happy about being in Vienna. Definitely one of the highlights of my trip.

I stayed there a bit longer than I had scheduled, so I opted to take a taxi over to Freud Museum for my scheduled Context Travel private tour. The tour was wonderful, I had Reinhard as my guide and he did an amazing job of bringing Freud’s work to life within social and familial context. The tour went through the museum (his living quarters and practice area), by the hospital where he worked and trained, over to the University where he taught adjunct, past several of his more famous patients’ houses, and ended at his favorite café. Another highlight of my trip.

I then caught the tram to the Albertina museum, and saw the Monet and Picasso exhibits there, among others. I sat at the base of the statue outside the museum and wrote in my travel journal. I was starting to fall in love in Vienna. A tour of the State Opera, some more gelato, and it was time to head back to the hotel. My friend and I went to dinner at the Hard Rock Café, a tradition of mine in foreign cities. I also purchased my Hard Rock Café Vienna t-shirt (I get one in every city I travel to). It was a great day.

***Day 3***

I had a hard time sleeping the night before, so I revisited my itinerary and gave myself 3 options for what to do on my last day. Unfortunately, there was just not going to be enough time to see what I wanted to, not to mention that I was discovering more I wanted to see by the minute! I started with spending the morning at Schonbronn Palace (which was originally on Day 1’s itinerary). The place is huge! It was the one place I went that was extremely crowded too. You could easily spend the day there, but I saw what I wanted to in about 2 ½ hours. I did the Grand Tour of the palace (42 rooms), visited the privy gardens and the orangery, and went through the maze. I also took a walk through the park, and sat on one of the benches for a while to write in my travel journal. The gardens (both the privy gardens and the ones at the rear of the palace with all the statues and that magnificent fountain) were my favorite parts.

I headed over to Hundertwasser museum and KunstHaus. Amazing! This type of art is very hit-or-miss with me, but I really loved the overall energy of the place. I felt happy there. I could have sat on one of the benches in the museum and written poetry for hours, it felt so inspiring. Definitely another highlight of my trip. Also helped to clear out some of the heaviness of the Rococo style of the palace from the morning.

Next up was the Donauturm observation tower. The views were beautiful but so far away from the city that it was not what I was expecting and a bit disappointing. I took some pictures of the St. Francis of Assisi church on the bus ride back, which looks like a fairytale castle. A colleague of mine studied in Vienna, and had asked me to run by his old apartment and take pictures, which I did after going to the tower.

While touring the city, one site had kept catching my eye for the past 2 days. It had not been on my list, but I felt compelled to go see it. It turned out to be Votivkirsche. I love neo-Gothic churches! So beautiful. Yet another highlight of my trip. Spent a little time hanging out in Sigmund Freud park, which abuts the church.

My last scheduled stop was to see the Venus of Willendorf at the Naturhistorisches museum. Getting there was definitely a misadventure – two wrong metro stops and an embarrassing fall. But I made it and saw the tiny figurine. They allow photography, so I took a few pictures. Grabbed some gelato and dinner, and back to the hotel room to begin packing for the flight home the next morning.

The flight home was also on British Airways through London. While the food was horrific on the way over, the food on the way home was terrific! Flight was uneventful other than some storm activity in Atlanta that delayed our landing by about a half hour. Home sweet home, nothing flooded or burned down!

In the end, I loved Vienna, and look forward to going back!

The 3 full days in Vienna were 8/29/16 to 8/31/16.

Next…other observations and random comments about my experiences in Vienna.

Keiracaitlyn

Other Observations and Random Comments about my experiences in Vienna:

This city is clean. So clean. No trash anywhere. I was surprised by the scarcity of recycling bins.

I felt very safe walking around everywhere.

The public transportation system was so convenient – frequent and fast. I took the metro all over the place. I was not successful in navigating the tram system, but I think with more time there, I would figure it out. I did not try the buses. The metro is an honor system, never saw anyone being checked for tickets except on the CAT airport train.

I was told by several people there are a lot of dogs in Vienna. I saw some dogs, but not many. I saw no cats at all, which was very odd.

The airport is very easy to navigate. Taking public transportation to the airport was also very easy to navigate.

The “tourist” attractions do not have obvious signage. Sometimes no signage at all. Having a good map was a must.

The attractions are also very expensive, presumably due to the high cost of upkeep. I purchased the 3-day Vienna Pass with transportation option (when it was on sale with 20% discount), and even though I did not use the pass the first day, I still saved over €30. I used the Hop On-Hop Off sightseeing bus a lot to get to various attractions, it was very helpful in navigating the city and learning my way around.

Gelato. Love the stuff. Shops on every corner. Cheap, about €1,30 a scoop. I ate lots of it every day.

A lot of vegetarian options, so I had no problems finding food, even though I didn’t eat much due to my upset stomach.

Pepsi seems to be the more popular cola here, although I did see Coke being sold in a lot of places. No Mountain Dew.

Vienna has some interesting and unusual museums which I did not get around to seeing this time but am curious about, like the Crime Museum (of crimes that have happened in the city) and the Collection of Anatomical Pathology.

There are a lot of horse carriages. The horses are very healthy and clearly well taken care of, unlike in other cities.

I was surprised at how art is displayed here. I am used to paintings being in light-controlled, humidity controlled spaces. In Vienna, almost everywhere I went (except the “proper” museums like the Albertina) the pictures are just hanging on the wall, windows open/undraped to let natural light and air in, and/or no air conditioning.

The city was not smoky. For as much as everyone loves to smoke there, it was barely noticeable.

Christina

Thanks for the nice report, gladd you got better quickly at the beginning.

I found it interesting you said it was easy to find vegetarian options, but I haven't been there for maybe 5 years. One thing that struck me was how veal was everywhere and in everything. I'm not even a vegetarian, but I swear at one restaurant, the soup as an appetizer was cream of veal, the main dish was veal schnitzel and even the salad had little bits of veal in it! I couldn't take it.

ONe of my favorite things, but that's because I"m very interested in classical music, was the music museum (which is one of the best) and to visit several composer homes/museums. Poor Brahms doesn't even get his own, shares with Haydn. Guess you didn't do any of that.

I never quite warmed up to Vienna, nice that you did.

MarthaT

I have been to Vienna twice, both times in December for the Christmas markets. It is beautiful in winter. I did like it better the second time around. It grows on you.
I went to the Spanish riding school and took a tour of the stables and fell in love with the horses. I hope to get back some day and see things I missed the first two times.

annhig

One thing that struck me was how veal was everywhere and in everything. I'm not even a vegetarian, but I swear at one restaurant, the soup as an appetizer was cream of veal, the main dish was veal schnitzel and even the salad had little bits of veal in it! I couldn't take it.>>

funny, Christina, we had to hunt down a restaurant serving Wiener Schnitzel and found a wide range of food to eat - Sauerbraten, [beef] Wildschwein, [wild boar] and Hirsch [venison]. we also ate very well in the Heurige [wine taverns] as well as having Wurst and Sauerkraut in the Biergarten in the Prater.

I fear that you might not have been looking in the right places!

Macross

You went all the way for three days? Just Vienna?



Christina, I don't eat veal so no go for me either. I stick to salads there but lucky they never put veal in mine.

Keiracaitlyn

Yep, all the way to Vienna for 3 days. I was on a limited budget, and only had 4 vacation days on the books at work. Also was trying to sneak it in between school semesters. It was definitely worth it though!

Yes, I saw lots of vegetarian options - mostly American food like veggie burgers and pizza. I saw at least a half dozen places advertising vegan food in the neighborhoods around my hotel and near the city center. Also Indian restaurants and such which have vegetarian options.

The next time I go, I plan for a music focus (see the symphony and opera, tour the composers' apartments and whatnot) and to see the horses. Since it was off-season - missed it by a week! - I opted not to do any of those things this time around.

Cathinjoetown

Very interesting report on Vienna. I admire your stamina, quite a trip and so much accomplished in a short time.

Hope you get to enjoy the music.

Keiracaitlyn

I saw a lot of falafel being sold too.

Keiracaitlyn

I have to admit, I was worried that I wouldn't warm up to Vienna at first. I had discussed with my friend that maybe I would take Budapest off my visit list, since I hadn't loved Prague and on the first day in Vienna, I wasn't loving it either. But the second day in Vienna really turned things around, and the more I was there, the more I fell in love with it.

Adelaidean

Sorry you were ill, that really impacts on a short holiday. I had dreadful gastro the day after returning home, I do not think I would have survived a plane trip in that state ( nor would the other passengers).
I like reading different takes on cities, people have such different interests and responses, you wisely split from your travel companion.

Keiracaitlyn

Yes, my companion initially just wanted a getaway to de-stress, and coming with me was convenient. However, she realized once there that being in the city was too much like being home (she lives in London) and that she needed to be out in nature. She spent the remainder of her time on cycling tours and visiting wineries and such.

GinnyJo

Thanks for the nice trip report -- you visited places that weren't on my radar, but now are. And don't write off Budapest -- I wasn't a huge fan of Prague either, but love, love, love Budapest!

fourfortravel

Wow. I recall your original planning post; it's terrible to be sick on travel, but I am happy to read that you were able to enjoy your visit in its revised form.

"This city is clean. So clean. No trash anywhere. I was surprised by the scarcity of recycling bins." Yes, the cleanliness of Vienna (which extends into the residential areas, as well) is jarring at first; now it is a point of pride, and we find ourselves noticing even the slightest litter when we travel. As for there being few recycling stations, most city crews I have seen sort the waste bins when they are emptied, collecting plastic bottles separately. Perhaps that is easier than having separate bins.

The vegetarian/vegan scene has really come to life in the last couple of years here, though falafel stands have been present for much longer. We're now seeing something called, "Vegetable Schnitzel" on some menus, though none of us are brave enough to consider ordering it.

Keiracaitlyn

Budapest is still safely on my to-do list! I may pair it with my return to Vienna.

I am glad to hear about the recycling during sorting. Vienna seems to be very environment-friendly focused, so I was sure recycling occurred somehow!

I don't know if I'd be brave enough to try vegetable schnitzel either.

annhig

The vegetarian/vegan scene has really come to life in the last couple of years here, though falafel stands have been present for much longer. We're now seeing something called, "Vegetable Schnitzel" on some menus, though none of us are brave enough to consider ordering it.>>

I once made a schnitzel with a puff-ball [a type of fungi] but though it was ok the best thing about it was the egg and breadcrumb crust. IMO veggie food is most successful when it celebrates the vegetables for what they are rather than trying to "ape" the style of meat dishes.

fourfortravel

annhig, no "mock meat meals" for us, either. Tofu is tofu; it is not the, "squishy chicken" that a friend describes it in order to get her children to eat it.

This past weekend and next, Gumpoldskirchen and neighboring villages are hosting their vineyard wandering festival. We managed a few kilometers (and a few glasses of Sturm) yesterday before summer's last gasp of heat did us in. Just thought I'd pass that along in case you were looking for something to do next weekend.

Pegontheroad

I enjoyed your report. You saw much more than I would have seen in such a short time.

If you're ever in Vienna again, I definitely suggest that you see the Karlskirche. It was designed by Fischer von Erlach, and I think it's the most beautiful church I've ever seen.

The last two times I was there, it was being renovated, so that there was scaffolding inside, but it should be finished by now.

Keiracaitlyn

I'm already working on my itinerary for when I go back, and visiting Karlskirche is on it.

nukesafe

Keiracatlyn, I noted your interest in stained glass in your OP, but did not see any mention of it in your trip report. Did you not see any of note? I've mentioned before in my trip reports that my wife is a glass artist here in the Pacific Northwest, and that we check out the glass art scene in each city we visit. Have not done so in Vienna as yet but will do so eventually.

We were in Tallinn in May and visited Ivo Lill's home and studio. Simply stunning! http://www.ivolill.com/ If you are interested, here is my wife's web site: http://www.annettetammart.com/