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Keep Calm and Carry On--Trip Report of 13 Days in England and Wales

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Keep Calm and Carry On--Trip Report of 13 Days in England and Wales

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Old Sep 2nd, 2010, 02:31 PM
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<b>Chapter 13--Day 13—Aug. 10--Can We Go to Canterbury (and then Down to Dover)?</b>

I had always had Canterbury Cathedral as a “maybe” on this leg; my research made it sound like it could be problematic to find parking and get to the Cathedral via a car without spending tons of time and I really wanted to get to Dover around noon or 1. But DH was willing, and we decided we’d try it.

It was raining as we left. We drove along the route from London to Canterbury, retracing the pilgrims used to travel—well, in same general area anyway! But much faster. We stopped at a Moto services area for some breakfast (BurgerKing and Costas muffin). It kept raining.

We arrived at Canterbury between 10 and 10:30. We found a park-and-display area right by city walls. We walked in the rain a few blocks to the Cathedral (I didn’t think there was very good signage here.) This cathedral is absolutely gorgeous inside and out, too! We found St. Thomas’ shrine and the pilgrims’ steps. DH took some incredible photos of the towers and arches. I’m a literary/history nerd. I could picture the Wife of Bath and the Knight and his son the Squire trudging up these very steps at the end of their journey. We enjoyed being there. When we left about noon, it was still raining. On the way back to the car we got baguettes to eat for lunch.

I called the <b>Maison Dieu B&B</b> along the way to Dover and we found it with no problems. Diane was a most charming hostess; she greeted us with an offer of refreshments and much info about town. In the room things--for example switches--were labeled; obviously they have done this a while and know how to help her boarders have a convenient time. Dover Castle was viewable from our window, as was their charming (but not accessible to us) garden full of small plots of plants and blooms, a little garden hut, and blue accents. We parked in front upon arrival, but the space marked for 5 or 6 cars can really only hold 2 or maybe 3.

After we finished our lunches, we drove to the Castle. We had long ago decided we didn’t want to repeat all the walking from town to castle to cliffs we had done in 2008! The weather was now better (although not as pretty as in 2008)! Yea! There is free parking inside the castle walls because of our pass. But here we had the biggest disappointment of the trip, the only primary destination we didn’t get to; we had planned to head first to the Secret War Tunnels, the part we skipped last time. Upon arrival about 1, the young man told us at the main entrance that the tours for that had filled at 12:30, so we would only be able to see a portion of them. Bummer with capital B. But in all thirteen days, of all the things I picked as the top 2-5 things to do each day, this was the only one we didn’t do. Anyway, we went on into the underground part and saw what we could. Interesting even without a guide and with limited access. Back outside; the weather had cleared somewhat although it was very very windy. We spent 90 minutes or so more seeing a good portion of the castle again (again for DH and me). It is still lovely! Great views; we could see France a couple times. We didn’t go everywhere that we went in 2008, but we saw the prettiest and most interesting spots I think.

Then we drove just a little ways to the White Cliffs parking lot (free parking with our passes again!). Here, about 4 pm, DH waited for us at the visitor center while DD and I had a walk of about an hour. Lovely lovely lovely. Only a few people were on the trail. We were so glad it had stopped raining even if the skies weren’t blue. We walked far enough to get that nice view of the SouthForeland Lighthouse in the not too distant distance (about a 30 min brisk walk one way) and then back. DD wants to come back to Dover some day and have a proper long hike along the Cliffs; they are certainly a lovely spot, whether for an hour or half day or longer.


We drove back to the B&B where I ran in for a book in the room that had restaurant recommendations. We drove around a short distance (Dover is pretty little). It was before 6 pm. We found a parking space across from the police station and checked out a couple places just a few feet away—a pub (no food for DD) and a Bistro where we sat down, but they only had soup for DD and a confusing menu and hard to understand chef/waiter/owner. We left. It had started raining a bit again. Diane is also gluten intolerant and had said she would be glad to help with anything, so I called and she recommended a place with GF pasta—we were standing right next to it! So we went in and decided it would work—La Scala. It was good pasta for all of us.

DD had seen a store she thought was a grocery store she wanted to visit to get chocolate for a gift (for a former roommate’s new husband who is from England and missing Cadbury!), so we drove around just a tiny bit and found Netto. It is like a dollar store with some food, I guess. She found chocolate, but I pointed out a Morrisons, a bigger grocery, in the same shopping area, where I had found out I could also get some cash. (I had estimated things pretty accurately, but having to use cash unexpectedly in Durham had us a bit short in case we needed much for transportation the next day, so I was in search of an ATM.) We went there—Morrisons is big, almost like the big grocery where I shop. Biggest grocery store I’ve been in in England. We found chocolate and tea for gifts, cash for us, and some cookies and fruit!

Back at the B&B very nearby, we had to park in the public parking across the street, which is free between 6 and 9. I guess this is a good feature; it is just a very short walk from this lot across the street to Maison Dieu. We were amazed at how these B&B’s had their spaces marked, though—guess they are eternal optimists or deniers of the physics laws about no two objects occupying same space!
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Old Sep 2nd, 2010, 02:35 PM
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<b>Dover</b>

Our hostess here was most like the Shrewsbury hostess, offering tea and local intel when we arrived. She guided us to a restaurant, the La Scala, that had gluten-free pasta for DW. There is a nice garden out back of the B&B, visible from our room, but we were told guests could not access it. Smokers will have to stand out front. The room did have a castle view, too.

Bed: We had another two-bed night and the one shared with DW was a small one, allowing me to hang off. It was comfortable, but fitted with just a comforter and I missed a top sheet. The sleep experience was hampered here by the early racket of the laughing gulls and the lack of a black-out shutter or curtain. Rating: ***

Breakfast: When I came down a couple of minutes late, there was cereal and juice available, but not fresh fruit. A pot of hot tea had just been delivered and was still steeping. Our breakfast order, as a choice from pre-defined options (like York), had been taken the night before and was now delivered in stages, served in a four table room. The hostess scored points with DD for making a loaf of gluten-free bread for toast. Rating: ***

Shower: This shower is another corner affair with a clam-shell door. The pump unit is very quiet and the adjustable shower head produced a comfortable spray. The temperature cycled a bit, but not enough to send me looking for the door. Rating: ****
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Old Sep 2nd, 2010, 03:44 PM
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<b>Chapter 14--Day 14—Aug. 11—Final—and Full—Day: Ramblin’ in Rye, Beautiful Bodiam and Hastening to the Hastings Battleground</b>

Lovely weather greeted us, finally, for our last full day of sightseeing on our way to a hotel at LHR. We had another marvelous breakfast from Diane (her method is to have you fill out a menu the night before and your choices are a little more limited than at other places, but still fine.) She had GF bread for DD! And for the first time we had stuff (eggs or beans) ON the toast.

First we drove to Rye, found a parking place, and walked around to stretch our legs and peek around a little for about 15 minutes. It is really cute. Quaint doors, flowers everywhere, cobblestoned streets. A nice picturesque quick break.

Then we drove on to Bodiam Castle under the most clear skies we’d had. We got there just after opening at 10:30. Cute cute cute. One of the only castles with its moat still intact. The castle is small and mostly ruins inside, but the outside is complete. Great example of a hexagonal castle. Lovely grounds. Tame ducks. Big fish in moat. Not much “important” historical events connected with this small castle, but its setting makes it most charming. WWII era pillbox set in front which had been manned so as to watch the hills and bridge for on-coming German tanks. This was another kid-friendly day with targets (for paintball guns as well as arrows) set up. A coal-driven train went by, puffing its gray smoke into the clear blue sky, running along its track to the little station visible from the castle. Wonderful! We looked around a good bit, took lots of pics (DH got great ones with reflections).

As we got ready to leave there were lots of people arriving, with cars backing up in the single-lane entrance. We got sandwiches in the café, fought off the bees as we ate them, and got a Magnum ice cream bar to eat in the car before we left. Then we headed reluctantly away and toward Battle. From the passenger’s seat on the drive I got a lovely view of the rolling golden and green countryside.

I was not expecting such a crowd here in Battle. It was really busy and no spots left in the lot at the Battlesite. I was willing to punt and go on, but DH found a spot a little ways down the road near the rail station, and we walked about 10 minutes back up the hill and used our passes for the last time. We spent about an hour here touring the Abbey and seeing a bit of the 1066 battleground area. It was amazing to me to be here where such a turning point in our history happened; our language, law, and many customs would be quite different if William had lost here. Not necessarily better or worse, just different; this is the site of a watershed event, and I loved getting to stand there.

About mid-afternoon, I think , we left and headed to LHR, using mostly major highways including a long time on the busy but freely flowing orbital around London. We got to Jurys Inn around 4 and checked in. A smoke-stinky room but guess it will do for one night. We left DD in the room as we took the car back, getting gas along the way. Sure glad to have Sheila’s directions in this confusing busy area. We turned the car in with no problems. Then despite what people had told DH (both at National counter when we got car and at Jurys Inn desk) there was no courtesy bus to the Hotel. There was a courtesy bus to Terminal 4 where we had to catch a different bus (one on which we rode free though). We then rode this bus to near Jurys Inn and walked, from the Hatton Cross tube stop practically, about 5 minutes but across a pedestrian bridge and along a busy street. Glad it wasn’t raining.

We just ate in the hotel again; like at the Hilton, it was convenient and acceptable. We also bought our tickets (£4 each) from the lobby vending machine for the Hoppa Bus transport at 5 am in the morning. We repacked and were in bed by 10 to get up at 4 (but I was awake at 2:30).
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Old Sep 2nd, 2010, 03:47 PM
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<b>Heathrow</b>

After driving up from Dover, we cleaned out the car at the Jury’s Inn and returned it to the rental center. The Jury’s was not as nice as the Hilton and the room was much smaller, but the windows were of similar construction.

Bed: We had only one bed here with a couch that folded out for DD. Neither was that great and, again, I missed a top sheet. Quiet with white noise from the A/C. Blackout curtains were of little use here because we got up at 4 am. Rating: ***

Breakfast: We caught the 5 am bus to the terminal where we caught a bite at Eat in a Terminal 3 lounge.

Shower: Shower-in-tub with nice shower head and plenty of hot water. Bathroom smelled of burnt tobacco products. Rating: **
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Old Sep 2nd, 2010, 03:51 PM
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<b>Fuel</b>

Basically, I saw unleaded prices from £1.14 to £1.24 per liter. The lowest of these prices is slightly higher than the national averages I read in the newspaper while there. The higher prices were always on the M-road service areas. Food prices will be considerably higher in the service areas, too. A Burger King breakfast sandwich that costs £2.49 in town was £4.79 in the service area.
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Old Sep 2nd, 2010, 04:38 PM
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Wow, excellent report Texasbookworm!

Love Volcrew's bed/shower& hot water ratings (I'm so fussy about these things on vacation). Glad you saw so much of Wales ..almost as much as I've seen and I grew up there

Feeding kebabs to the dog at the B&B is just classic LOL
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Old Sep 2nd, 2010, 05:46 PM
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Texasbookworm and Volcrew,

I am loving your report. I enjoyed the story about not knowing how to obtain hot water from the shower. I mentioned in my report how I thought the different mechanisms to operate the toilet were interesting too.

I enjoyed your Oxford segment especially since we did not get there since son got sick. More reason for us to go back another time to see it.
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Old Sep 2nd, 2010, 06:07 PM
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<b>Chapter 15—Travel Day—Aug. 12--Good-Bye Great Britain</b>

We caught the 5 am HoppaBus which was right on time and got us to Terminal 3 in maybe 20 minutes. We got in line in our proper “zone” for AA check-in. There was a line already before 5:30, despite the fact that AA’s website says the desk opens at 6:00—so?? Anyway, this line took maybe 15 minutes, then we checked our bags and headed upstairs to security, which went fast, and into concourse/shopping/food area. We got a little food at an EAT and waited about 30 minutes or less before about 6:30 they finally posted our gate for our 7:55 flight. We went to that gate area and only a little bit after the scheduled boarding time of 7:10, they started seating us.

Because we used FF miles to secure our tickets, our return flight had 3 legs whereas our flight from the US to London had only 2 segments. We made it to Chicago without incident and had about 3 hour layover (and had just missed crossing paths with DS #2 on his way to Pennsylvania to visit friends). (One odd moment—in coming through passport control, DH was asked if we had any food or fruit. He said no. But DD overheard and said, Well, yes, actually we do. She and I both were still packing apples, a pear, and nuts. Turns out we could have been fined if we had been searched without telling them. In the trip preparations, I’d checked on what we could take INTO the UK, but I didn’t think about checking what we could bring back INTO the US—can’t bring apples, it turns out! So we surrendered our fruits, and they did unzip our backpacks and look—glad we hadn’t left anything in our already checked luggage!) We were a little late to Dallas, but our last flight leg was also delayed a bit, so we had time to get some TGIFridays salads. Flight home also uneventful. DS#1 met us in the humid air about 7 pm and we were back!

So home to do laundry and such, unpack and repack DH, and catch up with mails of all sorts. And look at 6000+ pictures!!! (A strange side-note about the end of this trip is that we decided to try to keep our bodies on Europe time, because DH had to leave 36 hours later for 2-3 weeks working in Germany.)

I was not glad to leave. I could spend much longer enjoying the UK. But my companions were both ready to be home. We made many memories, mostly good ones, I hope, if nothing particularly dramatic. We were blessed to have had the time and for it to go so hitchlessly, all in all.
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Old Sep 2nd, 2010, 06:12 PM
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<b>Best Photo</b>

I haven’t looked at all of the them yet, but a couple stand out at this point from memory. One possibility is the full reflection of Bodian Castle in its moat during a brief sunny period. Just lucky to be there when conditions were perfect. The other was at Housestead. There was a child standing on the wall reaching down, with the arm of invisible adult sticking up over the wall. I thought of it as a juxtaposition of Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel ceiling. A third and more likely best pic candidate will be one of the hundreds taken of DW and DD.

<b>Best Memory</b>

The skies cleared for us when we reached the Roman fort at Housestead. Here on this hill where now only ruins remain, Legionnaire actors were amusing families with demonstrations. After walking the wall and taking a bunch of photos, DW announced it was time to hit the road. Looking out over the southern valley below, I rebelled. "I don’t want to leave; it is so beautiful here.” When DD agreed, DW burst into tears. I guess we had pushed her “joy” button.
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Old Sep 2nd, 2010, 06:15 PM
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<b>And in Conclusion</b>

Before we took this trip I read a couple books by Jerome K. Jerome—funny and recommended—Three Men in a Boat (an 1880’s boating expedition on the Thames from London to Oxford) and Three Men on the Bummel (turn of the century cycling tour in the Black Forest). A “bummel” is a synonym for “journey,” and what Jerome said at the end of that book speaks for me, in describing our travels this year: <b>“Sometimes it is through busy streets, and sometimes through the fields and lanes; sometimes we can be spared for a few hours, and sometimes for a few days. But long or short, but here or there, our thoughts are ever on the running of the sand. We nod and smile to many as we pass; with some we stop and talk awhile; and with a few we walk a little way. We have been much interested, and often a little tired. But on the whole we have had a pleasant time, and are sorry when ‘tis over.”</b>

I am sorry ‘tis over.
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Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 12:55 AM
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I'm sorry 'tis over as well, so enjoyed reading this. You sure covered some ground, good for you.

Thanks also for the details of Number 34 in York, I shall look into it.

Where to next?
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Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 02:51 AM
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great report. My brother in-law (some serious historical professor in NZ and US) took me round York Minster a few years ago 3 times. We did the kid's guided tour (little cards are left out for children), then the adults (smaller cards) and then Pevsner's guide. Opened my eyes to the marvels. Still it took 3 hours and no treasury.

Glad you enjoyed your visit and if I gave any advice I'm glad too
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Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 02:53 AM
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"I was not expecting such a crowd here in Battle. "

Amazing, the power of TV

Your entry is dated August 11 - a Wednesday. The previous Wednesday, this had been on the Beeb at 2100:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00tcgkl

And this is what was going to be on that night, trailered to death the previous few days:
http://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b00tfdsk

I've never seen anyone at Battle either. But, with all sorts of parallel shows going on at the same time, August was definitely the Normans' month - and with staycations the new black (Oxford visitor numbers are up 30% this summer), anything with a history tag is getting swamped.
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Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 03:51 AM
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Nice report. Did you post a link to your photos? I don't see one. Are you going to?
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Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 05:38 AM
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Thanks to all who took the TR journey with us! Those of you who gave us feedback were like fans or family urging us on to finish what we started!

isabel--no links; may not happen; wanted to get the writing posted but the whole photo thing takes more time than I have in the midst of school cranking up. Maybe I'll do a photo trip report separately sometime!
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Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 05:41 AM
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And forgot to answer Maudie's kind inquiry:
Well, looks like Rome in November for a few short days on an EFTour training; then to England again next June with a small group of students/adult (just 6-7 of us) on an EFTour.
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Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 07:23 AM
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Wonderful report! Thanks for sharing. I am disappointed not to see pictures, especially ater DH tantalized us with his favorites. Maybe you could post those? Pretty please! (I really do understand about school and stuff like that getting in the way, however.)

(I never minded school, but it sure got in the way of "funner" things--as I found out when I retired!)
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Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 07:28 AM
  #78  
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texasbookworm, thank you again for *another* informative and well-written UK trip report!
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Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 09:29 AM
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Thank you both for this amazing trip report. So full of useful information and ideas for my future travels!
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Old Sep 3rd, 2010, 03:50 PM
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Amazing report. Many, many thanks!

If I may ask, what age students do you take on the EFTour?

Cheers.
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