Martin

My wife and I just returned from 2 weeks in Germany and Austria and I got a lot of help planning it from this board--thanks. If anyone has any questions I can now answer, let me know. <BR> <BR>Below, I will give a few comments about what we liked and disliked about this lovely trip: <BR>1. The Rhine, and especially the Mosel, were great. Not too crowded and quite beautiful. <BR>2. Rothenburg was great. I expected it to be too touristy and glitzy, but despite my preconceptions it was fun. <BR>3. Seldom talked about but absolutely tremendous places were the Residence in Wurzburg, Ulm cathedral and Ottobeuren Abbey in Germany. The Residence, though smaller than Schonnbrun Palace in Vienna, was much more spectacular inside AND we were not trampled by other tourists (as we were at Schonnbrun--it was so crowded that I felt claustraphobic and hated the experience and I was so surprised it was THIS crowded in early October--I hate to imagine what it will be like in the summer!!). Ulm does not have the reputation of Cologne's cathedral, but the spire is actually bigger (the biggest in the world) and we felt it was a little prettier inside. Ottobeuren was in the middle of nowhere in Southern Bavaria but well worth the drive (not too far from Ulm). This was the most spectacular church I've ever seen (more so than Melk Abbey near Vienna). Unbelievable,..... <BR>4. I know I will take a lot of flack for this, but Salzburg was a major disappointment (except for the beer--Augustiner and Stiegl's Paracelsus as well as Stiegl's wheat beer were fantastic). Most of the sites seemed mediocre and the city seemed like a big tourist trap that tried too hard to drain our budget. The mountains of rural Austria were enjoyed far more than Salzburg (especially Hallstatt and the mountains aroung the Zugspitze and Grossglockner). Vienna was also somewhat disappointing, but had a few memorable sites. I think the biggest reason I was not so thrilled by Vienna was that we drove there and there were so many one way roads, driving was pure misery (much worse than driving in a larger US city--such as Chicago). <BR>5. Unfortunately for speed demons anticipating driving any speed they want, very very little of the Autobahn had no speed limit (we drove from Cologne through Bavaria and saw very few--though some people drove 140-160 mph anyways). <BR>6. The treasury at the Hofburg in Vienna was magnificent as well as huge. So much larger than the English or Scottish crown jewels. <BR>7. Gas about $4 a gallon. At least the rental cars got good mileage. <BR>8. Breakfasts at B&Bs were unusual. Germany B&Bs tended to serve cold luncheon meats along with a soft boiled egg and rolls. I liked being able to eat a sandwich for breakfast. B&Bs we stayed at in Austria offered sparcer fare--a couple pieces of toast and coffee--that's all. I'm not complaining, but am saying this was so different from British B&Bs and the average US breakfast. On the other hand, lunches and dinners tended to be very large and quite filling. Also, true diet soft drinks are unavailable. "Coke Lite" is actually half sugar and half artificial sweetener. I couldn't tolerate the sugar so I drank lots of water and juices (which are better for me anyways). <BR>

Chris

Thanks for your insights!! I'm planning a trip in April 1999 to Switzerland, Austria, and Germany for 13 days. Of that, we plan to stay in Salzburg 2 days/nights, Munich 1 day/night, Fussen area 1 day/night, Rothenburg 1 day/night, and Rhine River are 2 days/nights. Some highlights we're planning include; Bob's mountain Tours, "Sound of Music" in Salzburg, Dacchau in Munich, Neuschwanstein or Linderhof in Bavaria (which one, or both?), evening Nightwatchman's Tour in Rothenburg, 1 hour Rhine Cruise from St. Goar to Bacharach and Rheinfels Castle Tour in St. Goar. What would you change and/or add to these plans? Also, if you can suggest B&B's in any of those areas for $75/night or less that you liked that would be greatly appreciated!! I, too, have found this site tremendously helpful in planning our trip! Thanks

Martin

The Nightwatchman's tour in Rothenburg is fun, though it rained during our tour. The cost is 6 DM and meets at 8pm in front of the Rathaus (townhall). I'd consider spending two nights in this town instead of one--otherwise, you run around too fast and never have time to absorb the flavor of the town. Staying around Fussen is nice--providing the sewage problem is taken care of (there was a sewer main break when we passed through--it smelled so bad, we drove on to Reutte and stayed there). I would consider staying outside either city and just picking a B&B in the surrounding countryside (particularly south of Reutte). Rooms were plentiful and needed no reservations. The hotel we stayed in had 6 guests for about 30 rooms. <BR> <BR>Once again, I would advise spending more time in the mountains of Austria than in Salzburg--it's a city with 200000000000 tourists per square inch--even in October. If you do go to tourists, I have a B&B I would NOT recommend (Let's Go recommended it, but it was next to a lumber yard and they began working at 630 am!!) but can think of none to recommend. <BR> <BR>The B&B in Rothenburg was nice with a good buffet. I'll look for the name but it was a bit pricey for a B&B (about $90 a night). DO MAKE RESERVATIONS FOR THIS TOWN AHEAD OF TIME. We didn't and had to try about 6-8 places before we found a room.

Joanne Fernbach

We were in Germany and Austria in June and July and really enjoyed it. Found the Salzburg tour very interesting. The Sound of Music tour is interesting...American guide with lots of background info on the filming of the movie and the family. We found a great place to stay just below the fortress. It was pricey but it was our one extra expense and it was worth it. They speak very good English and their breakfasts were wundebar! If you write or fax Im sure theyll send directions. Its Pension Struber and the fax is 662/843728-14, run by the Ilmer family. I dont have the rates but they will send them plus a map. Really a great spot. They have an outstanding breakfast as well, more than cold meats and rolls. <BR>In Rothenburg we just happened upon this great place but the TI in town has a super map on the wall outside with little red lights that show the location. Once you settle in forget the car. In fact, we left the car at the hotel in Salzburg for 3 days and just walked everywhere; same in Rothenburg. And, I concur...you need at least 2 nights in Rothenburg. <BR>Rothenburg: Pension Elke, Rodergasse 5; Tel. 9861/2331 and fax is 9861/935355 (dial 011/49) before these numbers. Nov-March rates are double w/bath, 100 dm; and Apr-Oct rates are 120 dm. The rooms are over the owners grocery store; during the day you enter thru the store (kind of a little neighborhood store) and at night thru the back door, up 3 flights of stairs. If you can, ask for the room on the street. It looks down on the cobblestone street; not too much traffic or street noise, just atmosphere! <BR>If you have any specific questions, e-mail me, please. We drove from Frankfurt west and south and east to Vienna, into Prague, north to Dresden, west to Rothenberg and back to Frankfurt. We were there for 20 days and came back with lots of ideas. Take a small zip lock bag for each day youll be gone. Place bills, flyers, tickets, receipts, etc and date each one. It really helps to sort info when you return. If you give me your address Ill send a sample of the daily sheets we placed in the bag along with the little souvenirs and stuff. Have a great time!

laura

Visited Austria and Germany last April. I totally agree with Martin on Salzburg and the surrounding countryside. Salzburg was a total tourist trap while the surrounding lake district was beautiful. Just skip the first couple outside of Salzburg (traps too) and keep going. <BR> <BR>I don't know when in April you are going but we were in St. Goar/Bacharach on April 22 and the boats cruises had just started a couple day before for the season. I would spend 1 day max in this area and skip it all together if you are going in early April as most everything is closed. <BR> <BR>Martin is also right about staying in Reutte instead of Fussen. We stayed at Gasthof-Pension Waldrast, 6600 Ehenbichl, Fax/phone 62443/05672 with a castle view for $65.00 double with bath. Warmest family of Innkeepers I've ever met. Plus they speak great english and breakfast buffet was large. Ask them how to hike up to castle behind them. <BR> <BR>Martin, your are batting a thousand! Rothenburg needs two days. Within the old city walls we stayed at Gastehaus Flemming, Klingengrasse 21, phone 09861-92380, about 1 block behind St. Jacobs Cathedral, nice double with bath was about $50.00 with a nice breakfast. Very clean, new bathrooms, speaks some English and has a rear courtyard. Great local bar across street. The Criminal Museum is great fun and has English descriptions. <BR> <BR>Don't miss the Rezidence and treasury in Munich. Best palace we saw in Germany and Austria and we saw alot (too many!). Munich needs at least 2 days. Hotel Uhland was great and has free parking and free internet use. Check out their web site. Dachau is worth the time and has an English movie. <BR> <BR>We had no problem finding cheap nice lodging in April without reservations, except in Salzburg, which was packed. Get Rick Steves guide to Germany. His info was right about everything but except Salzburg (thats my opinion) and was excellent. Just keep in mind that not everything is open in April. Hope this helps and have a blast! <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR> <BR>

Lee

We are planning our May, '99 trip to Germany now and this post is providing some good info for us, especially on Fussen and Rothenburg. <BR> <BR>A message for Chris: I would suggest either not staying in Salzburg or just one night, instead using two nights in Munich. I am leaning toward not going to Salzburg on our trip and using more time in Munich. If you go to Salzburg, you could stay in nearby Bertchesgaden (much better!) at the "Four Seasons" hotel, but sorry, I don't have the number. <BR> <BR>As far as Neuschwanstein and Linderhof, I would suggest BOTH. They are very different and reasonably close to one another and you should stop in nearby Oberammergau, Ettal and Garmisch, which is what we did in the summer '97, on our honeymoon. <BR> <BR>On the Rhine, we stayed at Villa Rheinfels at St. Goars. It's attached to the castle ruins, but there isn't much left of the original structure and you can tour it (no guide)in an hour. The view of the river below is spectacular. The hotel is expensive at about $175.00 for a double (inc. breakfast). Bacharach and St. Goars are neighbors. I would suggest driving one side of the river from Rudesheim (stop there) to Koblenz (about 65 km) and back "down" through St. Goars, Bacharach, etc., to Mainz where you can cross again to Weisbaden and head back to Frankfurt. <BR> <BR>Try the Minhotel Alte Bauernschanke, Niederwaldstrasse 23, D-65385 Rudesheim-Assmanshausen, tel. (06722) 2313. About $80.00-100.00 for a double inc. breakfast. <BR> <BR>Have a good trip!

steve

Good point about Salzburg, I didn't think it was possible, but all the Mozart memorabilia actually makes me uncomfortable listening to his music. <BR> <BR>For German trips I would recommend the following: <BR> <BR>1. Visit Triberg in the Black Forest and spend a few days hiking the surroundings. Also see the highest waterfall in Germany. <BR>2. Visit Wuerzburg. There is quite a bit to see here, particularly if you appreciate the art of Tilman Riemenschneider. <BR>3. Visit Marburg and take plenty of oppurtunities to sit down at the cafes. <BR> <BR>

Kathy

Hi! I've been reading all of the information, as we are planning to be in <BR>Austria the end of June. I am considering 1 nite in Innsbruck, 3 nite <BR>in Salzburg, and 3 nites in Vienna. Is <BR>that enough, too much? Any help or information appreciated. We will be coming into Austria via train from Italy. Thanks

Richard

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Richard

I thought I was the only one that felt that Salzburg was much over rated. I much more enjoyed the salt mines of Hallein and the ice caves (Eisriesen Welt) and burg Hohenwerfen in Werfen. In Fussen, the gondola ride at Tegelberg is great for the views as well as the rush in seeing the para-sailers and hang-gliders launch into space. <BR>

Don Stadler

While I don't have as much experience with travel in Germany as some people posting, I do have some observations and suggestions..... <BR> <BR>I really enjoyed Nurenburg. I am a big fan of art museums generally with a particular love of folk art. The Nurenburg National Museum had the best folk art section I have yet seen, though the Innsbruck museum came close. <BR> <BR>While I enjoyed Rothenburg, I lied some of the lesser known cities in the general area more. Dinkelsbuhl is about 40 kloms south of Rothenburg and is what Rothenburg was like before the tourists came. Nordlingen is further south and has a nice center. I liked the look of Schwabisch Hall further west in Swabia as well. <BR> <BR>It is hard to go wrong staying almost anywhere in Germany. We just picked little Gasthauses in the country or in small towns when we couldn't get lodging in the big places. Generally good value and good food. The smaller towns are equally as charming and will save you money.